The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (3 Viewers)

[ForealBoreal]

Yeah at this point you want to see if you are getting max throw on your fuel pin.
The other than that static timing advance but I don't know the number you should take it to. It's a bit of a dark art....

 

[OceanCable]

@ocean cable the marks are unrelated to timing. It simply sets the throttle arm position which is also adjustable with the min and max stop screws.

Well... I matched the marks today at the end of my work day... it didn't change a single thing........... just everything! First off it bumped the rpm up by 1000 which was expected but I had to un-adjust everything I had done in respect to tuning. I also had to adjust every linkage from throttle cable, trans linkage, trans cable, main fuel screw in to factory collar(had to lean it out previously). Now I am just sorting out the low end response which will take a few days of driving around but the top end is where it really opened up. In the end, that relationship has a profound affect on how the pump performs.

 

[Cape York boy]

First thing to do was to cut a ramp into the new pin for easy installation. Luckily

One thing we did check, he had some 4140 10mm rod... and compared it against the 2 AFC pins. The stock, but modified, one from Karter, and the completely aftermarket one that was in my truck when I brought it over from Japan. Both AFC pins measured at 11mm, not 10mm. In addition to that, the pin from Karter and the 10mm rod my buddy had were significantly stronger than the aftermarket pin from my truck.

Been a bit tardy responding to this one but the difference in the size is because the pin "grows" during the treating process. Below is a bit of info sent to me including a link to Qld based company that is capable of doing same.

With the blank pin, once you have ground it, the correct method is to have it Nitrated for hardening. Here is one company who does it, I haven't used them but anyone like this will be able to treat it. http://www.heat.com.au/treatments-case-hardening.php

 

[brendonv101]

Morning guys,

I was the one that made those two youtube videos posted a few pages back. I've recently purchased a gturbo grunter extreme so im now starting to modify the aneroid. May do a few videos on some road tuning soon. So far i've set the main fueling for a rough peak egt of 450deg post egt temps, ground the off boost cam plate as much as possible without cutting into the oring groove on the opposite side, wound spring tension out a turn and maxed out the aneroid.

So far it drives pretty well on 22psi but is pretty smokey coming onto boost so ill run it like this for the next few days until the aneroid has a nice faint marking on it and then take photos with a ruler beside it and then start grinding the max section away to stop it going into fuel cut and then grind the middle and lower sections.

Im hoping to get it close to what i feel is good and then get a dyno run done to check afrs and adjust if necessary. Im not going for nuts power, i just want it to run nice and cool and very safe on 22psi. My old factory ct26 on 15psi ran pretty high egt's and not much power doing 110-120km/h and had no guts to overtake a road train so i basically just want enough to easily overtake. Not looking to be the fastest 4wd down the drag strip.

 

[asutherland]

Sweet, thanks for the videos man! Where are you located?

Andrew

 

[brendonv101]

Im from Australia. About 10 minutes down the road from Gturbo haha.

 

[diby 2000]

I have a couple of questions for the tuning gurus.

When tuning with an automatic is it best to tune to lowest AFR that I can achieve at low rpm (60km/h 1200rpm) while driving with the normal throttle position sensor or is it best to fool the tranny with another fixed TPS to allow full throttle from this point?

I have tried both and had better success with the fooled tranny just because there is no 'magic point' on the throttle where it lets go of the lockup and drops into third. The problem I'm having with this setup is that with the normal TPS installed it will never allow this situation to happen anyway.

 

[IanB]

Getting closer to playing with this stuff, and found an allen key set that works for that sneaky bolt on the boost compensator diaphram that's tough to get to. Picked the set up from Princess Auto, it's a Titan brand, low-profile hex key set, and it hits that tough bolt with no issues. Just wanted to share the info for anyone looking.

 

[asutherland]

Hey those are pretty cool. Good find! I've just been using the wobble end of mine. But my allen bolts were pretty effed when I first took them out so I replaced them all. Butter now!

 

[Knudsen6x6]

Hey
I want to use 14 mm plunger.
However, a skilled diesel pump builds saying there is too much risk for breaches of the drive.

What I do not know is whether it is the driven from the engine or longer inside the pump.

The info I want from you who have real world experience. It must be said that operating conditions may be different in that my engine must cope with a cold start at -30 degrees C. Which makes fuel thicker.

Another related issue is: What happens when I want to use the 14 mm plunger, it allows, logically, greater flow.
A option is the injectors from Yamaha 6LPA engine which has a somewhat higher performance 315Hk, but still not 14 mm plunger.

 

[ForealBoreal]

How much fuel do you want to run?
The 12mm pump is probably capable of more horsepower than your turbo can out out...

 

[Knudsen6x6]

How much fuel do you want to run?
The 12mm pump is probably capable of more horsepower than your turbo can out out...

The same amount of fuel as many others who pay a lot for the fuel. (Enough to make the power that I want)

As little as possible.

I will try by getting it, by a SHORTER injection time.

Theoretically it is correct but how much it makes in practice is something else.
I will have all the turbo I need to make the power I want from bottom to top.


I will try to have charging pressure AND flowe from bottom to top.
The only way to do that is possibly Gturbo or more turbos built together in the right way. Whatever that is.
There are plenty of twin turbo and triple turbo build out there. (Volvo has a triple turbo prototype engine that after what a tester told me, run wildly well. BMW had a series production diesel with three turbos.) So i't possible.

I'm not talking about reason and a short path to power.
I build to build.
Therefore, I also think of a 1HD FT D4D.
and a 6X6 portal chassis with V12 diesel triple turbo. (Praga V3S)

 

[mudgudgeon]

Have a search through this thread.
I doubt there's many (if any) who have maxed out the pump with 13mm plunger, very few have used 14mm or yanmar pump elements.

12mm was standard. The increase from 12 to 14mm is pretty large. ie. 36% larger, and 12mm pump allows a pretty decent power upgrade

 

[Knudsen6x6]

First thanks and cool with a constructive response.

Have a search through this thread.
I doubt there's many (if any) who have maxed out the pump with 13mm plunger, very few have used 14mm or yanmar pump elements.

12mm was standard. The increase from 12 to 14mm is pretty large. ie. 36% larger, and 12mm pump allows a pretty decent power upgrade

It is perfectly true that there is no need for a 14 mm plunger.

But many studies demonstrating results, are made outside of the norm and the book.
I'm not after max fuel over time, but needed fuel in SHORT time.

There is a bonus in the form of more time to fill the plunger before each stroke. So small internal pump pressure increasing is needed at high rpm. If one day I will be lost at that point.

The price for me to have made a pump is also likely to be the same no matter what I choose for it is a flat rate for a remanifakturerte pump.

I also have some wild thoughts with refurbishment of the interior of the pump. Therefor the previous post about what breaks at violent loading of the pump.

It probably would be able to get more effectively fuel control, relative to boost pressure. Ie have more effect of fuel pin than with a small plunger.
A issue that many write about.
(Maybe modifications is easier to achieve with large 14mm plunger than on the fuel pin, only.)


This is very complicated. But to make it even more insane I'll just throw a little more in the mill.

Electronic fuel injection time at the mechanical pump.
and
Electronic rpm limiter
Not to be confused with an electric pump. VP37, and the like.

When I have the power I want, I can increase the load on the pump in an attempt to get higher nozzle pressures and thus bedere fuel economy.
Inching towards comme rail pressure and efficiency.

I know that it is very theoretical.
But I build to build.
And looking for the wildest, and possibly building more traditional.

There are many. With many modifications performed.
So it's a good place to test ideas and thoughts.

 

[jb BJ73]

Hey
I want to use 14 mm plunger.
However, a skilled diesel pump builds saying there is too much risk for breaches of the drive.

What I do not know is whether it is the driven from the engine or longer inside the pump.

The info I want from you who have real world experience. It must be said that operating conditions may be different in that my engine must cope with a cold start at -30 degrees C. Which makes fuel thicker.

Another related issue is: What dolmens when I want to use the 14 mm plunger, it allows logically greater flow. The option is the dolmens from Yamaha engine which has a somewhat higher performance, but still not 14 mm plunger.

I've heard of people snapping the pump plunger when going to 14mm (I think on Nissan patrols). Something to keep in mind, especially with colder and thicker fuel.
Also, what do you mean by "dolmens"? Not something I've heard before

 

[Knudsen6x6]

Sorry. SMIL
I've edited the post. I am not very good at English writing. So there can slip something when I try to write with the help of the computer.

Is this the part you call `` pump plunger´´ ?

http://bricofoy.free.fr/voiture/pompe/dsc05363.jpg

http://bricofoy.free.fr/voiture/pompe/dsc05365.jpg

I can well imagine that it will self-destruct IF the nozzles can not flowe that is delivered.

The next will be to find the injectors that can flow what I want, and at the same time, as high pressure as absolutely possible.

Everything is about balance, when you want more for less, you get unavoidably closer to the limits.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Well how many killer wasps are you after? Aren't guys running into the issue with 1hdfte that they are hitting a wall essentially around the what 300 or something HP mark?

In the end what's your number? It's roughly 2hp per 1cc of fuel/1000strokes.
So essentially a 200hp pump like a 1hd-t is set to 100cc/1000strokes...

 

[Knudsen6x6]

``killer wasps´´ Cool expression.

For me it is not just about max power. But also how.
Yamaha inboard engine 6 LPA based on 1HD FT has 315 HP. But is probably not very flexible.
I would like boost pressure from idle to maximum rpm, with full flow naturally.

Heat in the engine will be the first problem.
This can be remedied in several ways. Among other things, injection on as right time as possible. Not only time but also the length of time.
Water free cooling ( it cool better than cooling with water containing cooling. )

But you have other points in the engine you know something about will be a problem. Then I would love to know what.
After heat in the engine, torque in the gear box is likely to be a problem.

The solution to, too much torque in the gearbox are more rpm and less torque. Not on the engine but only on the gearbox. Ie overdrive between the clutch and gearbox.

Same times one should not look at the problem but around it.

Overdrive solutions is solved. It's only a matter of how much cooling it may require.

However, it is the pump this thread is about.

Of course I would like to have input, of any kind so that I think about it to see if it can be solved.

Just to konkludre on some of the many write about here: The fuel pin.
If one increases the pump piston by 36%, it can be seen as increasing the fuel pins capacity by 36%.
It should gives a much more flexibility engine.

It's ok to PM me. If it is desired.

 

[ForealBoreal]

6LPS have an endless amount of cold water to cool them
Your intercooling will need to be excellent to run 35lbs of boost and keep it cool.
A h151 seems to live up to the abuse with a good clutch that will take over 1000nm.
In the end your turbo setup will be a little laggy down below with a gturbo by the sounds of things but it should hammer from 2000rpm plus to dame well the redline. Graeme would be the best person to ask about this.
With the FTE pumps they are getting into the 300hp range at the wheels. This would probably equate to about 150cc fuel.
Patrol guys running UFI or Diesel Central pumps putting 260hp down at the wheels are probably running 125cc of fuel off the top of my head.

You'll need to have a huge free flowing airbox and be able to cram down as much air as humanly possible into the engine.

Tom Ingham (facebook him) and his brother built a crazy looking 80 series that they were hoping to crack the 300hp mark with. You'll know it when you see it (huge hood louver)

 

[Mcreight911]

The Gturbo sponsored offroad truck (cut Down patrol wagon with 1hdfte engine runs ~350rwhp on a single turbo . The ufi r&d patrol with td42 engine is ~ 330rwhp with compound turbos both on diesel only . Not sure about the gturbo truck but I'm 90% sure that ufi still runs a 12mm element .

What's your target HP as foreal has said this will dictate your fuelling needs (total cc's) and element size. You say you want power from idle to redline . That's a big ask. With the room available I'd recommend compounds. If your aiming at over 400hp on diesel only, put a duramax in it. They're 600hp capable with mild mods, 1000hp+ if you have the money . I'm led to believe bigger than 12mm pumps have difficulty maintaining internal case pressure, lack of timing . Really need to ask your pump builder, plenty of 12mm pumps (patrol or landcruser) out there that can supply more fuel down low than any responsive single turbo setup can handle . 14mm pumps have been experimented with before on your engine and most go back to 12.