- Thread starter
- #461
Yes I fitted one on my previous pump
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Cool. Did you have any problems, or was it straight forward?
- Thread starter
- #463
@mudgudgeon it wasn't too hard really. I would recommend if you are anywhere close to your pump or injectors to be serviced to just get them serviced.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Thanks, good to know
yotahed
Diesel Head
Yota, would you be offering "kits" for us to modify our lids, or point us in the right direction for the necessary parts? This modification does not look difficult in the least, and appears to open up the tuning possibilities quite well.
Hi Yotahead,
Are those figures at the injectors? I had my pump set at 50% when reco'd and that is about 97.5cc. Pump was done on the bench. I have the spec sheet if anyone wants it. If running a GTURBO 50% as a minimum should be achievable. Perhaps I have misinterpreted the data but its reproduced below:
1100rpm 4psi 63cc
1100rpm 6psi 76cc
1100rpm 8psi 85cc
1100rpm 10spi 95cc
Should be noted max fueling was set at 10psi when I requested 20psi. Shop said it was going to be smoky. No s***. Adjusted before I even turned the key. I have a 100m incline to the end of the calder-sac at the end of my street. Stock turbo, I could rev out first, snatch 2nd and it would start dying. With LLCOOL adjustments I was powering in 2nd. With Gturbo and 50% fuel +1/4 turn I'm powering in third. Huge difference. The truck just keeps pulling past 3 grand, until my clutch starts slipping in 4th gear under really heavy pedal (its really impressive).
I have tried getting the boost to come in earlier (target is about 1000rpm) because it slowly starts spooling to 10lb until 1600 rpm at which point it launch's to 22lb easily. I'm looking for a bit more of a tractor. I have tried bringing a bit more fuel in early plus the 1/4 turn but no difference so I'm thinkIng perhaps the limitation is the turbo. I have as much smoke up to 10lb that I'm comfortable with and then it cleans right up (I have a bit more fuel adjustment left up top). Any suggestions of how to get that boost to come in earlier without making it smoky (fuel=boost).
Cruising
At 80kmh 2100rpm 8lb boost EGT=270°c
At 100kmh 2700rpm 14.5lb boost EGT=300°c
I'm also a bit concerned about high boost at 100kmh. Its not unusual for the boost to creep to 18-20lb with a load on flat ground at constant speed. This is putting a lot of unnecessary stress on the motor when the same speed can be achieved at 10lb. Any suggestions?
yotahed
Diesel Head
Figures are for 200 strokes, so multiply by 5 for 1000 shots.
So 100-110cc at the top end.
47.5cc off boost
Denso specs are usually in 200shot measurements.
Its better to have the base off boost fuel at the stock level and be able to adjust up from there, and leave a little headroom for increased boost. (Just commenting on the initial set up of your pump)
I won't be offering a "kit". But if you send me your lid, I'd be happy to do it and supply replacement diaphragm washers.
For a small fee of course. PM me if you're serious about it. I'm rarely on the forum lately.
As far as your spool up, its really up to the size of the exhaust housing. Yours is obviously a happy balance of spool and top end, and a smaller exhaust housing will net you better spool and low end with decreased top end....
So 100-110cc at the top end.
47.5cc off boost
Denso specs are usually in 200shot measurements.
Its better to have the base off boost fuel at the stock level and be able to adjust up from there, and leave a little headroom for increased boost. (Just commenting on the initial set up of your pump)
I won't be offering a "kit". But if you send me your lid, I'd be happy to do it and supply replacement diaphragm washers.
For a small fee of course. PM me if you're serious about it. I'm rarely on the forum lately.
As far as your spool up, its really up to the size of the exhaust housing. Yours is obviously a happy balance of spool and top end, and a smaller exhaust housing will net you better spool and low end with decreased top end....
All is very clear now. Your figures (particularly early boosting) are similar to those on the spec sheet with (cc/200st). All that had been crossed out and obviously 1000st figures recorded. I would be interested to see the torque and spool difference of the free flowing housing vs standard. As I recall it boosted quacking with the free flowing housing. That was the stock turbo though.
In terms of fueling rates am I correct in saying that is determined entirely by the fuel pin. By that I mean if the max fuel screw settings are left the same then the only way to change the rate is by different pin profiles
eg
4psi 63cc
6psi 76cc
8psi 85cc
10spi 95cc
if you wanted say
1100rpm 4psi 63cc
1100rpm 6psi 76cc
1100rpm 8psi 100cc
1100rpm 10spi 150cc
Then with he same max fuel screw it is only achievable with pin profiles/adjustment. (I just made those figures up, as example). Is there other internal way of adjust boost specific fuelling levels?
In terms of fueling rates am I correct in saying that is determined entirely by the fuel pin. By that I mean if the max fuel screw settings are left the same then the only way to change the rate is by different pin profiles
eg
4psi 63cc
6psi 76cc
8psi 85cc
10spi 95cc
if you wanted say
1100rpm 4psi 63cc
1100rpm 6psi 76cc
1100rpm 8psi 100cc
1100rpm 10spi 150cc
Then with he same max fuel screw it is only achievable with pin profiles/adjustment. (I just made those figures up, as example). Is there other internal way of adjust boost specific fuelling levels?
yotahed
Diesel Head
Dependant on the profile as well as spring preload, yes. Fuel screw just moves the entire fuel curve up.
So, while installing my EGT probe, I recently discovered that my throttle wasn't fully engaging due to the hand throttles bracket binding up under the dash. I reinstalled the hand throttle correctly, adjusted the slack out of the throttle cable, and took for a drive. Massive improvement, feels like a brand new vehicle. Throttle pedal range of motion is easily triple what it was when I took delivery of the truck, power delivery is hugely increased, and shift points make tons more sense now.
My question is, what are factory temps pre-turbo for the 1-HDT? I ask because I'm now able to hit 1300-1325 on long uphill sections with relatively little throttle input (say 1/4 to 1/3 throttle). Since owning the truck, I haven't messed with fueling at all. Do these high of temps indicate someone has previously adjusted the fueling? What sort of temperature decrease could I expect an intercooler to bring? Ambient temps have been in the 90's, is it possible that the truck was previously tuned for a cooler climate?
The truck has a fantastic amount of power after fixing the throttle cable, so I highly doubt the temps ever got that high before. I'm just very lucky I installed an EGT probe at the same time that the cable got fixed.
My question is, what are factory temps pre-turbo for the 1-HDT? I ask because I'm now able to hit 1300-1325 on long uphill sections with relatively little throttle input (say 1/4 to 1/3 throttle). Since owning the truck, I haven't messed with fueling at all. Do these high of temps indicate someone has previously adjusted the fueling? What sort of temperature decrease could I expect an intercooler to bring? Ambient temps have been in the 90's, is it possible that the truck was previously tuned for a cooler climate?
The truck has a fantastic amount of power after fixing the throttle cable, so I highly doubt the temps ever got that high before. I'm just very lucky I installed an EGT probe at the same time that the cable got fixed.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
@absolom, nice win! Free power upgrade 
Sounds like the tune is a little rich. If you were seeing those temps on a full throttle, extended uphill run (or pulling a large load) it's still within a safe range, but close to the upper limit of "safe".
But if your seeing that at light throttle, you need to keep an eye on it a bit and see what it maxes out at under heavier load, heavier throttle.
How much boost are you running?
Sounds like the tune is a little rich. If you were seeing those temps on a full throttle, extended uphill run (or pulling a large load) it's still within a safe range, but close to the upper limit of "safe".
But if your seeing that at light throttle, you need to keep an eye on it a bit and see what it maxes out at under heavier load, heavier throttle.
How much boost are you running?
Well that's a nice surprise!
X2 on how much boost are you running? It might be that you could just get a manual boost controller and bring the stock turbo up to 14psi, and it would lean you out sufficiently to bring your EGT's down to a safe level, without even having to touch the pump.
I'm running 11 psi right now.@absolom, nice win! Free power upgrade
Sounds like the tune is a little rich. If you were seeing those temps on a full throttle, extended uphill run (or pulling a large load) it's still within a safe range, but close to the upper limit of "safe".
But if your seeing that at light throttle, you need to keep an eye on it a bit and see what it maxes out at under heavier load, heavier throttle.
How much boost are you running?
I'd like to do that, but the boost controller I installed did very little to actually adjust the boost. It either went all the way to 18 psi or wouldn't go above 11. Which unit do you have?
I don't have one yet, still waiting on the last pieces so I can get gauges installed.
Match marks.....
Can someone weigh in on what I've found on my injection pump linkage and the possible affects this may have on pump operation...
I've been working my way around tuning my truck and saw this early on but it didn't dawn on me how this may affect the internal operation. I haven't touched this but the nut is much newer than the rest of the pump which leads me to think it has been tampered with... On the subject of tampering, the pump also revealed a modified aftermarket aneroid pin too, so someone has played with it before, likely ATEB or in Japan.
In the FSM it states to line up the match marks and if there are none, make them and line them up when reassembling. From what I can tell the spring does several things which are all critical to operation.
What affect might I expect if I correct the alignment? It appears as though it will be equivalent to advancing my throttle 10 deg or so...
Thanks in advance(no pun intended)!
Can someone weigh in on what I've found on my injection pump linkage and the possible affects this may have on pump operation...
I've been working my way around tuning my truck and saw this early on but it didn't dawn on me how this may affect the internal operation. I haven't touched this but the nut is much newer than the rest of the pump which leads me to think it has been tampered with... On the subject of tampering, the pump also revealed a modified aftermarket aneroid pin too, so someone has played with it before, likely ATEB or in Japan.
In the FSM it states to line up the match marks and if there are none, make them and line them up when reassembling. From what I can tell the spring does several things which are all critical to operation.
What affect might I expect if I correct the alignment? It appears as though it will be equivalent to advancing my throttle 10 deg or so...
Thanks in advance(no pun intended)!
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
@ocean cable the marks are unrelated to timing. It simply sets the throttle arm position which is also adjustable with the min and max stop screws.
I thought that the spring tension against the governor would have some affect... no?
arnott1t
SILVER Star
Here is a question for the experts. I currently have my max fuel screw turned up nearly as far as I can go without getting rpm hang... Meaning when you stab the throttle instead of coming back down quickly it hangs up a bit and slowly returns.
My egt's are still to low though. Rather than work on turning down the boost (peaking at 29psi now) I though maybe I could squeeze in more fuel. I'm on a stock pin on the deepest side. I think I have another stock pin around so should I get my out the grinder and try and squeak some more fuel out of it?
What other options to I have?
My egt's are still to low though. Rather than work on turning down the boost (peaking at 29psi now) I though maybe I could squeeze in more fuel. I'm on a stock pin on the deepest side. I think I have another stock pin around so should I get my out the grinder and try and squeak some more fuel out of it?
What other options to I have?
