Builds "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta (5 Viewers)

[Tank5]

If you are looking at an in-cab cage, here is what I did for my A-Pillar to keep it low profile. I would consider it just as strong, but it really keeps the footwells open. It mounts right next to the body mount, so it pretty strong. I doh'd with the lower dash pads, so something will have to get notched to get them to fit, but besides that, I like them.

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Just a thought.

DJ

This is exactly one of the ideaa I had been trying to reaearch. I had seen another thread some time ago where another member did something similar but had not been able to dig up the thread. Proffitts years ago had a cage design that bolted through the dash on each end. I talked to them about it back then when I had them install a cage in my 40 but they had stopped building cages that way.

In general this design, that is tied into the dash or lower A piller, is what has me asking the question, is it suffient. It seems most say the strongest way to build the cage is to run it strait to the floor. I am wondering if tying the cage through the cab this way is strong enough and even if it crumpled some, wouldn't that be in line with what they do in modern vehicles anyway? Is there a difference in body movement vs cage movement that make this a bad idea?

I recognize that in designated rock rigs where a roll over is expected you wouldn't want to build a cage that would have a crumple type zone it.

I like what you have done and it is very much in line with options I am considering if I go with a cage.

 

[Tank5]

My buddy’s 45, he went a bit extreme with the exo!View attachment 2528002

That is a cool hell truck and someday I would love to build something similar. This build is not going quite that far. That rig is pretty cool!

 

[whitey45]

It’s really well built, 6.0 ls, th400, atlas, Dana 60, 14 bolt, Detroit’s,. We built it 10 years ago! It has a flat belly pan, no drivetrain hangs below. A shop did the cage, it go’s through the cab down into the frame. You can roll this rig, and do no damage!

 

[DangerNoodle]

This is exactly one of the ideaa I had been trying to reaearch. I had seen another thread some time ago where another member did something similar but had not been able to dig up the thread. Proffitts years ago had a cage design that bolted through the dash on each end. I talked to them about it back then when I had them install a cage in my 40 but they had stopped building cages that way.

In general this design, that is tied into the dash or lower A piller, is what has me asking the question, is it suffient. It seems most say the strongest way to build the cage is to run it strait to the floor. I am wondering if tying the cage through the cab this way is strong enough and even if it crumpled some, wouldn't that be in line with what they do in modern vehicles anyway? Is there a difference in body movement vs cage movement that make this a bad idea?

I recognize that in designated rock rigs where a roll over is expected you wouldn't want to build a cage that would have a crumple type zone it.

I like what you have done and it is very much in line with options I am considering if I go with a cage.

With that, It is bolted into the floor and existing A pillar. The material is 1/4 x 2" angle. It's pretty strong. If you manage to crumple that in an accident, you are going to have other problems than the cage failing.

 

[Tank5]

With that, It is bolted into the floor and existing A pillar. The material is 1/4 x 2" angle. It's pretty strong. If you manage to crumple that in an accident, you are going to have other problems than the cage failing.

I agree with you. I would think that what you have done in your design should be a sufficiant enough structure to increase the safety for the occupants in a roll over. That said I am curious why this design is not more common.

I am no engineer but I theorize that tieing the cage into the sheet metal body is probably sufficient for one roll over incident as it might put enough presure on the body to deform it significantly. Other more common roll cage designs that go strait through the floor and if tied to the frame I would expect are more adapt to being rolled or flopped multiple times for those that use theor rig that way and expect it to happen.

The way I drive and my plans for using the truck probably will never push the capabilities for how I build it. My goal generally speaking is to over build it for my use, so that I can get myself out of what ever situation I got my self into. My wheeling style isn't to figure out the limits of my build but to intentinally stay with in them.

I can certainly make mistakes though, so I do want some roll protection in the event it happens. I am not building it with the idea of rolling regularly on a trail, so I don't think I need a cage for that standard.

I really am looking at designs similar to yours for what I might call some sort of middle ground.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I agree with you. I would think that what you have done in your design should be a sufficiant enough structure to increase the safety for the occupants in a roll over. That said I am curious why this design is not more common.

I am no engineer but I theorize that tieing the cage into the sheet metal body is probably sufficient for one roll over incident as it might put enough presure on the body to deform it significantly. Other more common roll cage designs that go strait through the floor and if tied to the frame I would expect are more adapt to being rolled or flopped multiple times for those that use theor rig that way and expect it to happen.

The way I drive and my plans for using the truck probably will never push the capabilities for how I build it. My goal generally speaking is to over build it for my use, so that I can get myself out of what ever situation I got my self into. My wheeling style isn't to figure out the limits of my build but to intentinally stay with in them.

I can certainly make mistakes though, so I do want some roll protection in the event it happens. I am not building it with the idea of rolling regularly on a trail, so I don't think I need a cage for that standard.

I really am looking at designs similar to yours for what I might call some sort of middle ground.

That tie in point on the floor is just about on top of a body mount. That is the big reason I didn't bother with a frame mount there.

 

[Tank5]

That tie in point on the floor is just about on top of a body mount. That is the big reason I didn't bother with a frame mount there.

Are you going to weld that plate to the floor or bolt through to a plate on the bottom. I had considered making an extension from the underside cage plate that would have the body mount bolt go through it so each cage leg would also be bolted through the body mount.

If I did that, I was thinking of using larger bolts for the body mounts if I don't tie the cage into the floor. My 45 only has four cab mounts, so it would be easy to drill the hole larger to add a bigger bolt. I am again trying to decide if that would be necessary. Any thoughts?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Are you going to weld that plate to the floor or bolt through to a plate on the bottom. I had considered making an extension from the underside cage plate that would have the body mount bolt go through it so each cage leg would also be bolted through the body mount.

If I did that, I was thinking of using larger bolts for the body mounts if I don't tie the cage into the floor. My 45 only has four cab mounts, so it would be easy to drill the hole larger to add a bigger bolt. I am again trying to decide if that would be necessary. Any thoughts?

I am going to bolt, not weld. I want everything in this cage to be 100% removable. I also still need to be able to access the door stops as well.

 

[jim land]

Front legs on my 40 cage have 3 bolts and one of them is the body mount bolt , so it is kind of like tie to the frame

 

[Tank5]

Front legs on my 40 cage have 3 bolts and one of them is the body mount bolt , so it is kind of like tie to the frame

Do you have a picture of the bolt on the inside? I curious to know where that body mount whole alignment comes through the floor.

 

[jim land]

Do you have a picture of the bolt on the inside? I curious to know where that body mount whole alignment comes through the floor.

Will take a pic today

 

[jim land]

The front bolt is the body mount one
My tub is gozzard fiberglass btw

 

[Tank5]

@jim land, thanks for the picture. I see your tub is a little different but the bolt hole I expect is in the same place. It gives me another idea to consider. I like the way you tied your slider into the the body mount too. I might use that idea as well.

 

[jim land]

Slider are also part of the skidplate , the round tube is threaded , so if i remove the bolts on one side ,the other side act like a hinge to drop the skidplate
I have some better pics on my computer if need

 

[jim land]

like this

 

[Tank5]

@jim land, that belly protection looks really stout. I do like the way it swings down like that. I bet that make sit a lot easier to install by yourself.

 

[Tank5]

I have a trip planned in August and I intend to take the 45, so I have to get moving on it.

I have been tinkering on little things but nothing picture worthy till now.

I had discussed swaybar options earlier and decided I might not need one moved on then came back to it. I think an antirock would be tight for where it needs to mount, so decided to experiment.

I had a 80 series rear swaybar that I cut and welded together. I cut it with a notch, drilled some wholes for rosets, and beveled the edges. Then welded it up.

Came out perfect, size wise. Anyone know where I can have it re-tempered if that is even possible? If not I will just run it as is and that will be my experiment.

Couldn't install it becase I need to order swaybar links and bushing caps.

 

[4Cruisers]

I have a trip planned in August and I intend to take the 45, so I have to get moving on it.

SAS #5?

 

[Tank5]

SAS #5?

That is the goal. I have a lot of work to do.

 

[Tank5]

I found a place that will re-temper my welded sway but learned at the same time that the mild steel from my mig will not temper. I was told in order to temper the sway bar correctly I need to know what kind of steel toyota made it from. Then it could be welded with the correct material, so it could be tempered.

I started a thread to see if the Mud experts knew what Toyota made them from. 80 series sway bar material type - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-sway-bar-material-type.1239427/
My own search turned up empty.

I learned that for $200 I can send a piece of the sway bar to a lab to have it analyzed. I also found a company that says they can build a one piece sway bar to my specs. I sent them pictures to confirm they can do it. Still waiting.

My plan will be to get a properly tempered sway bar at sone point but for now I may run the one I welded just to experiment.

More on the sway bar later.