Build "The Milk Truck" FJ45 Preservation Sorta

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I was considering options for what to put in place to secure the tank from the top. I initially considered a piece of 1/4 inch flat bar accross the top but it seemed to farmer fix for me. Nothing against farmers.

I had this piece of C channel sitting around and decided to tac it in place. The C-channel would be easy to wash dirt out from under it and it is high enough I could bolt two rubber body bushings to it to offer a little more support for the bed flore.

What do you all think of it?

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I checked off one more piece of the build. I modified a set of front cab frame mounts to fit the rear frame in front of the rear crossmember. I narrowed the rear frame, so I could not use the stock type mounts because they wouldn't extend far enough from the frame. I cut the front mounts down and drilled a body mount hole. They worked out great.
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I had some frame mounts from a 40 series which turned out to be the same as would have been used to mount the front of the bed to the frame. I used the rivet holes from the original mounts that had been removed to relocate the mounts. I tacked the mounts in place and checked to make sure it all lined up. All good, so all 10 bed mounts are in place.
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I need to add a sway bar for the rear axle and looking for suggestions.

I have considered the stock 80 sway bar but it is too wide. I also looked at using the stock 45 sway bar but it won't work/fit either. I have a hd60 rear sway bar I am going to revist but I recall the first time I looked at it wouldn't work either.

I have looked at the Antirock universal sway bars. This would work but at $500 plus I want to look a little harder to see what else is available hopefully better on the wallet.

Anyone have any suggestions?
 
don't be afraid to cut and weld a sway bar to make it fit
 
don't be afraid to cut and weld a sway bar to make it fit

I had considered cutting, welding and sleeving an 80 series sway bar. In researching this I read the swaybars are tempered to maint there springyness? I read that the heat from welding would alter tge temper and affect the springyness of the sway bar. I am concerned that cutting and welding will negatively affect the effectiveness of the sway bar.

@cruisermatt, have you done this before or have you seen others do this successfully? Please share. I would revisit this if I knew it would work.
 
Just depends how much travel it's going to have. No sway bar off an OEM is made of anything special. Try it! its not like 80 sway bars are rare or valuable
 
Just depends how much travel it's going to have. No sway bar off an OEM is made of anything special. Try it! its not like 80 sway bars are rare or valuable

I don't mind experimenting but I would prefer to see that someone else has tried this in some way with results. I feel like I already have several other experiments occurring in my build. The sway bar should be simple if I can get one to fit the space. I measured it and feel like Antirock has a setup the will fit well. I am just having sticker shock as it will cost me 600. I leaning this way but may not make a purchase until after Christmas.
 
I'd honestly run without a sway bar for a bit and see if you end up wanting one.
 
I'd honestly run without a sway bar for a bit and see if you end up wanting one.

I drove the previous version of this 45 which had a 4" spring under lift on it. It really needed a rear sway bar then. I feel with change to coils in the rear that a rear sway bar is necessary. I am not planning to install a front sway bar at this time though. I have been running my 80 without a front sway bar for a little while and it seems to do fine with out.
 
agreed. This thing will be pretty light in the rear.

Just as much as I use this truck for fun it will also get used to do chores and hauling. The bed will likely get loaded up and pull a small utility trailer at times.
 
FWIW My old built 45 was 4 linked and coiled and never ran a sway bar. I did everything from rubicon to dump runs without any issues. What I think really helped was the rancho 9000 adjustable shocks. When I cranked them up to full compression it was like night and day. My truck was taller and top heavy too.
 
FWIW My old built 45 was 4 linked and coiled and never ran a sway bar. I did everything from rubicon to dump runs without any issues. What I think really helped was the rancho 9000 adjustable shocks. When I cranked them up to full compression it was like night and day. My truck was taller and top heavy too.

That is a good comparison considering it is a similar build. That was what I needed to sway my thought process. I may just go without and add one later if needed. Thanks for shareing.

@whitey45, how did your 45 handle o n the highway at 60 -70 mph?
 
If you want to get spendy, get some king smoothies with compression adjusters from Ben @ Filthy Motorsports.
 
That would be nice but I have already purchased some Radflo 2.5 reservoir shocks. I am hoping they will work with this project if I can keep the lift at the right height to work with them.
 
Cool project. :cool:

So, I read the first couple of pages, and then when I got to the part where you started working more on the frame, I got a bit lost.

What is all the extra frame stuff for? It seems like you maybe lengthened the wheelbase?

Thanks
 
Cool project. :cool:

So, I read the first couple of pages, and then when I got to the part where you started working more on the frame, I got a bit lost.

What is all the extra frame stuff for? It seems like you maybe lengthened the wheelbase?

Thanks

It is all in the thread. The orginal flat bed 45 this project started as was very modified. The leaf spring hangers had all been repositioned for a lift, the bed mounts had all been cut of as well as the original rear crossmember.

I removed all the previous modifications to get to a bare frame, then started building it with 80 series suspension. I did extend the wheelbase by moving the rear axle back 7 inches, which required the rear frame be narrower to allow the tires to clear. Most all of the extra supports you see are to support the 80 series suspension.
 
It is all in the thread.

No doubt. Thanks for taking the time to clarify.

I did extend the wheelbase by moving the rear axle back 7 inches, which required the rear frame be narrower to allow the tires to clear.

Ok. I think that's what I was wondering about. I understood the part about the brackets and stuff needing to be different, but I couldn't figure out if you were extending the wheelbase out of necessity or just because you wanted to. Not that it really matters, but it's part of the narrative of the build. (in my head in any case)

Looking forward to seeing more!
 
No doubt. Thanks for taking the time to clarify.



Ok. I think that's what I was wondering about. I understood the part about the brackets and stuff needing to be different, but I couldn't figure out if you were extending the wheelbase out of necessity or just because you wanted to. Not that it really matters, but it's part of the narrative of the build. (in my head in any case)

Looking forward to seeing more!

No worries. I extended the wheelbase mostly because I wanted to change the appearance and make the rear wheel more centered "about" than it is in stock form. All SWB 45s are pretty cool but have always thought they would have looked better if Toyota would have made the rear axle closer to center on the bed.

Another benefit was adding 7 inches to the wheelbase gets the 45 to 111.4 inches, If I recall correctly, and that is really close to the stock 80 wheelbase. I figured this would help since I am mostly trying to mimic the 80 series suspension on this build.
 
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