- Thread starter
- #101
With this GX 460 build, I've been on the "dark side"...I'm just tired of the dark side leaking (and trying to convert) my interior!you guys need to ditch the expensive trash sacks and come to the dark side
Builds The Fresh-Air-Ah GX 460 Build Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter alefer5
- Start date
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Generally Fully loaded so we can hit the road quickly and easily for weekend trips after work.
r2m
Richard
Same here. just need the stove, propane, camping chairs and food!
- Thread starter
- #105
3rd Row Power Tap & Rear Outlets
I stumbled on @THEOZMAN 's third row power tap harness, and wanted to implement this with a Blue Sea Power panel, as the combination would easily bring yet another +12V source to the rear of the vehicle (we all know that these are hugely lacking...)
I went with the Blue Sea 4366 power panel, as it would provide 2x USB ports, a 12V cigarette lighter, as well as a battery voltmeter, all of which were linked to an in-line circuit breaker. I liked the idea of the voltmeter, as tapping into the third row seat power is a constant power source (i.e. this is not switched to the ignition). Therefore, the in-line voltmeter would help ensure that I never draw my (starting) battery down too low.
Like most of my other mods, I tried to mount the Blue Sea panel on a removable piece of trim (for ease of installation & ease of "restore to factory" if I ever wanted). The Blue Sea Panel came with a foam gasket that I traced onto the trim piece. After a few holes and some filing, I could fit the Blue Sea panel into the trim piece:
With the Blue Sea Panel now mounted onto the trim piece, it was as simple as plug n' play: I simply interfaces the 3rd Row Power Tap harness with the (+) and (-) terminals on the Blue Sea Panel, and viola.
This was a super simple, yet highly effective mod. On my last outing, I was charging my cell phone and my portable battery all from this panel, and boy am I glad I did this mod. For reference, the @THEOZMAN also sells a "Splitter" style power tap, that doesn't require the removal of the third row seats / connectors.
Other Helpful Resources:
I stumbled on @THEOZMAN 's third row power tap harness, and wanted to implement this with a Blue Sea Power panel, as the combination would easily bring yet another +12V source to the rear of the vehicle (we all know that these are hugely lacking...)
I went with the Blue Sea 4366 power panel, as it would provide 2x USB ports, a 12V cigarette lighter, as well as a battery voltmeter, all of which were linked to an in-line circuit breaker. I liked the idea of the voltmeter, as tapping into the third row seat power is a constant power source (i.e. this is not switched to the ignition). Therefore, the in-line voltmeter would help ensure that I never draw my (starting) battery down too low.
Like most of my other mods, I tried to mount the Blue Sea panel on a removable piece of trim (for ease of installation & ease of "restore to factory" if I ever wanted). The Blue Sea Panel came with a foam gasket that I traced onto the trim piece. After a few holes and some filing, I could fit the Blue Sea panel into the trim piece:
With the Blue Sea Panel now mounted onto the trim piece, it was as simple as plug n' play: I simply interfaces the 3rd Row Power Tap harness with the (+) and (-) terminals on the Blue Sea Panel, and viola.
This was a super simple, yet highly effective mod. On my last outing, I was charging my cell phone and my portable battery all from this panel, and boy am I glad I did this mod. For reference, the @THEOZMAN also sells a "Splitter" style power tap, that doesn't require the removal of the third row seats / connectors.
Other Helpful Resources:
- Thread starter
- #106
Rear Camera Relocation - Part 2
As I mentioned in the above posts, I wanted to relocate the relocation of my backup camera. I initially followed the Victory 4x4 Relocation instructions, but after that was said and done, I wanted something that was a little less intrusive, and something that would allow me to run a rear tire trash bag. I finally had some time to mess around with this, and my results are below.
Using the Victory 4x4 supplied parts (in ways other than they were intended), I was able to drill 2x holes in my Dual Jerry Can Holder, and mount the camera brackets directly to the Jerry Can Mount. I used the supplied button head fasteners to do this, and I was careful to put the button head side near the jerry can, so I wasn't scraping the water cans against the threaded portion of the bolt (there is only a hair of room to work with here). The below photo is deceiving, as I spent probably 2-3 hours playing around with different camera locations, to check the field of view (hence the C-Clamps pin the ground). After testing probably half a dozen locations,. this one was seemingly the best.
With the camera now mounted, I wired it using the same techniques described in the Victory 4x4 video, but I pinned everything to a 6-pin DT style connector, that would allow me to unplug the assembly if I ever wanted to (without having to unplug at the camera directly). I will add that adding this additional connection may have dropped the camera resolution a tad, but it's hardly noticeable.
With the camera mounted, it was on to the license plate mount. I ended up drilling a few holes in the "bumper cover plate" on the strike rear bumper, and using one of the Victory 4x4 mounts in this location. The below photo shows me using the center bolt in the bracket to keep things positioned, before I drilled the two additional holes on the left and the right (ultimately these two holes would be the ones used). After this point, it was basically just gluing the license plate LED onto it's little "lip" above the license plate holder, bolting everything down, and wiring it all up.
With everything buttoned up, I was pretty happy with this installation. I feel like it makes the vehicle look a bit cleaner, and most important, it will allow me to run a spare tire trash bag...(Note the little pink binder clip below was used to hold the LED in place, while the gorilla glue dried).
Other Helpful Resources:
- License Plate & Camera Relocation Kit - Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/product/LPRLC2.html
- Amazon product ASIN B083FQT6LB- Amazon product ASIN B07V1C6N2V
As I mentioned in the above posts, I wanted to relocate the relocation of my backup camera. I initially followed the Victory 4x4 Relocation instructions, but after that was said and done, I wanted something that was a little less intrusive, and something that would allow me to run a rear tire trash bag. I finally had some time to mess around with this, and my results are below.
Using the Victory 4x4 supplied parts (in ways other than they were intended), I was able to drill 2x holes in my Dual Jerry Can Holder, and mount the camera brackets directly to the Jerry Can Mount. I used the supplied button head fasteners to do this, and I was careful to put the button head side near the jerry can, so I wasn't scraping the water cans against the threaded portion of the bolt (there is only a hair of room to work with here). The below photo is deceiving, as I spent probably 2-3 hours playing around with different camera locations, to check the field of view (hence the C-Clamps pin the ground). After testing probably half a dozen locations,. this one was seemingly the best.
With the camera now mounted, I wired it using the same techniques described in the Victory 4x4 video, but I pinned everything to a 6-pin DT style connector, that would allow me to unplug the assembly if I ever wanted to (without having to unplug at the camera directly). I will add that adding this additional connection may have dropped the camera resolution a tad, but it's hardly noticeable.
With the camera mounted, it was on to the license plate mount. I ended up drilling a few holes in the "bumper cover plate" on the strike rear bumper, and using one of the Victory 4x4 mounts in this location. The below photo shows me using the center bolt in the bracket to keep things positioned, before I drilled the two additional holes on the left and the right (ultimately these two holes would be the ones used). After this point, it was basically just gluing the license plate LED onto it's little "lip" above the license plate holder, bolting everything down, and wiring it all up.
With everything buttoned up, I was pretty happy with this installation. I feel like it makes the vehicle look a bit cleaner, and most important, it will allow me to run a spare tire trash bag...(Note the little pink binder clip below was used to hold the LED in place, while the gorilla glue dried).
Other Helpful Resources:
- License Plate & Camera Relocation Kit - Victory 4x4 - https://www.victory4x4.com/product/LPRLC2.html
- Amazon product ASIN B083FQT6LB- Amazon product ASIN B07V1C6N2V
- Thread starter
- #108
Honestly, it was pretty straightforward, once you tap into t he factory wiring, behind the rear door. If you've removed the trim from the rear door in the past, then it doesn't get much more difficult than that.
I also toyed with the option of just adding another (i.e. second) camera to the car, and having a switch between the two, but the stock camera runs at 6V, and many of the new cameras run at 12V. I've seen other camera relocations where folks purchase an off-the-shelf backup camera, use a voltage converter to bump the 6V power lines from the car, and then they're off and running. However, I was nervous about the heat generated from a voltage converter, and being able to package that effectively. All in all, I'd definitely recommend a relocation - it's time well spent.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Just catching up on the Trash-a-roo portion of this thread. I. am. in. awe. How much trash do y'll generate while on the trail? I mean, if you're worried about wildlife getting to it you can't leave it on the tire overnight anyway, right? I can take a dozen Boy Scouts out overnight and not even fill up a Hefty bag full. And anyone who dumps liquid in the trash gets to go diving to get it out... 
Not sure I'll ever have enough coin to drop $300 on a trash bag. But @Washingtontaco's use case isn't anywhere near the "normal" etither.
Not sure I'll ever have enough coin to drop $300 on a trash bag. But @Washingtontaco's use case isn't anywhere near the "normal" etither.
- Thread starter
- #110
Often times, I throw firewood at the bottom of the trash a roo and then I put trash on top. 2-in-1 works pretty well. I just purchased this all-top trash bag, and the quality (at first glance) seems pretty solid. We'll see how it h olds up over time.Just catching up on the Trash-a-roo portion of this thread. I. am. in. awe. How much trash do y'll generate while on the trail? I mean, if you're worried about wildlife getting to it you can't leave it on the tire overnight anyway, right? I can take a dozen Boy Scouts out overnight and not even fill up a Hefty bag full. And anyone who dumps liquid in the trash gets to go diving to get it out...
r2m
Richard
For us, it's never been about using it for trash. I've yet to ever use my Trash-a roo for trash. It has always been used for our huge double wide sleeping bag. The stuff bag it all fits in fits perfectly in the trash-a-roo. And since the trash-a-roo is waterproof and pretty well sealed, I've never had to worry about weather getting to it. So for us, it's just opens up a bunch of space inside our vehicle for other creature comforts.Just catching up on the Trash-a-roo portion of this thread. I. am. in. awe. How much trash do y'll generate while on the trail? I mean, if you're worried about wildlife getting to it you can't leave it on the tire overnight anyway, right? I can take a dozen Boy Scouts out overnight and not even fill up a Hefty bag full. And anyone who dumps liquid in the trash gets to go diving to get it out...
Consider it another storage option beyond tote boxes and ammo cans.
If you're hauling out human waste, believe me you don't wan that in the vehicle. Trasharoo is a godsend for that.For us, it's never been about using it for trash. I've yet to ever use my Trash-a roo for trash. It has always been used for our huge double wide sleeping bag. The stuff bag it all fits in fits perfectly in the trash-a-roo. And since the trash-a-roo is waterproof and pretty well sealed, I've never had to worry about weather getting to it. So for us, it's just opens up a bunch of space inside our vehicle for other creature comforts.
Consider it another storage option beyond tote boxes and ammo cans.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Where do you 4 wheel that you have to pack out your crap?
It's required in some of the more heavily used/protected places. If you've ever had to tiptoe through a minefield of catholes you can understand why. And in some of the drier environments it doesn't really decompose and just accumulates.
technically its illegal to bury waste within 100 yards (I think?) of any water. Here in the SW, It's actually kind of uncommon to find soil that you can easily dig a hole in. s***ting in a bag is honestly awesome.
r2m
Richard
Unless it's liquid we use this: Cleanwaste GO Anywhere Portable Toilet Seat | REI Co-op - https://www.rei.com/product/662980/cleanwaste-go-anywhere-portable-toilet-seat
Easy, quick and compact.
The bags are very thick and double lined. Never had an issue, not even odor.
Easy, quick and compact.
The bags are very thick and double lined. Never had an issue, not even odor.
nice build out. love the plan you executed. i mounted my license plate light on the jerry can and it came out pretty clean too
i agree a lot of the bumpers out there have the backup camera and license plate like an after thought
i agree a lot of the bumpers out there have the backup camera and license plate like an after thought
- Thread starter
- #118
Yea I really wish that some of these companies would just put the camera in a decent spot!
r2m
Richard
I agree. I think every GX has a backup camera, don' they? Or is just the Lux models?
If nothing else, offer a clean integrated design that bolts on for those who need it.
