the DSRTRDR is getting some TLC . . . (2 Viewers)

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Ok, I hear you. I may try to go with the hoop look if I can find someone to help me fabricate the hoops. I think the look is cool. I definitely would like to keep my steering wheel etc... I captured a bunch of pictures off of your thread but if you have any more that would be helpful. Here are the hoops I have seen on some of the other posts. I have access to an 87 60 should I grab the drag link and the other steering parts? I just put all new tie rod ends on mine but it looks like I might have to dump these. Any additional input/info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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That rig looks great! After all the work, I can't imagine your joy at finally getting the 'rider' to go(minus the few irritations)
Well done-Tools-R-Us!
 
Thanks. I appreciate the feed back. I may try to go with hoops like the ones below if I can find someone to help me fabricate them. I have found a 60 that I can get steering parts from. Besides the pump, pulley and steering box should I look at any other steering parts? I did look at the Iron Pig Off Road Hi Steer kit that looks like it works nicely with the 60. Have you ever installed one of these?

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Thanks. I appreciate the feed back. I may try to go with hoops like the ones below if I can find someone to help me fabricate them. I have found a 60 that I can get steering parts from. Besides the pump, pulley and steering box should I look at any other steering parts?

Is your motor drilled for the '60 pump?

I did look at the Iron Pig Off Road Hi Steer kit that looks like it works nicely with the 60. Have you ever installed one of these?

Never seen hi steer for a spring under and don't see an advantage?

... eventually go to discs in the front as well. ...

May want to combine these projects? If going with '60 knuckles/brakes, the new arms will require bigger tie rod ends. Easier to do it once?
 
Ok, I hear you. I may try to go with the hoop look if I can find someone to help me fabricate the hoops. I think the look is cool. I definitely would like to keep my steering wheel etc... I captured a bunch of pictures off of your thread but if you have any more that would be helpful. Here are the hoops I have seen on some of the other posts. I have access to an 87 60 should I grab the drag link and the other steering parts? I just put all new tie rod ends on mine but it looks like I might have to dump these. Any additional input/info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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what pictures do you want ?

as Kevin said, I'll be in town over the weekend, so could take some more pics

y'all wish me luck on the Emissions testing, if I don't pass, I can't go on the run on Saturday :(
 
so, when Michael (aka ChaseTruck) drove the 40 the other day, he noticed that it wanted to die when given throttle

fuel delivery was not improved with a new fuel pump - and since truck ran fine off of fuel that came in a hose off an external fuel cannister, the likely problems was deemed to be the tank - temporarily hooking up another tank supported the diagnosis - (the original tank was scoped with a camera but the baffling prevented a precise diagnosis as the camera couldn't get around it, so the exact problem with the tank is unknown)

the options considered were:

if the fuel pickup is questionable only at low gas level in the tank, run the tank as full as possible all the time - yeah, no, not a practical option, particularly not on long distance rides :doh:

install new tank - order OEM from the dealer - thanks to murf and crew :cheers: it arrives just about 2 days later - only to discover: there are no outlets for a fuel separator :bang:

stay tuned for the solution . . .
 
meanwhile, here's some tank tech (and it's not even all there's to discover . . . ):

there were many versions over the years - there are only two versions available from Toyota new OEM now for the in-cab style: one is listed for E-9/'72, the other is listed for '73-'78, and then there are the fancy later model underbody tanks we aren't going to talk here :flamingo:

the problem with the available OEM early style tank is that it has only one outlet tube - and therefore does not fit any FJ40 that has an evaporator/fuel separator system, be it in the bench (as in late '71-9/'72), or any of the later FJ40s - why Toyota did not keep the tank with more outlets on the shelf, considering that any tube not wanted can be simply blocked off, remains a mystery

so, if you want a gas tank that has the outlets for the fuel separator, you need to get the '73 and up tank - that one has 2 gallons less fill capacity but fits perfectly into the space due to having the same outer dimension - what does not fit on that one: the fuel filler hose needs to be replaced with a longer end towards the tank side, there's a possible Gates hose for that - what also does not fit: the '72 and earlier fuel sensor, it's slightly too wide (IIRC the later model fuel sensors won't work due to different resistance or somesuch) - so if you want a working fuel gauge, you'll have to make the early fuel gauge fit in the tank - this requires grinding the opening for the gauge wider - also, the outlets for the fuel separator point towards passenger, so you'll have to reroute the softlines

oh yeah, such is the stuff you can stuff your brain with :rolleyes:
 
here's some real progress from today:

registration had been expired for a month since I couldn't drive the truck to emissions testing - expiration racks up penalties on renewal :eek:

so today, I drive to the station, go through the motions .... and FAIL :mad: - it was little consolation that all the station employees came to drool - they so wanted to look under hood, but it's exempt from visual inspection :flipoff2: - FAILED :bang:

and the FAIL was considerable: 1116 HC on idle when 400 is the limit - everything else passed with flying colors

some "fiddling around" ensued . . . . involving a long screwdriver and firewater . . .

and since I really want to go wheeling tomorrow :steer: and can't if I don't get the registration renewed, I drive back to the station an hour later - didn't get my hopes up since I've managed to need 7 runs once several years ago :rolleyes: and, it's like 3:15 on a Friday afternoon and I probably won't make it before the closing of the DMV anyway . . .

biggest drooler dude was incredulous: "really ? people with cars this old usually don't come back that soon"

testing . . . then I was given a sheet to check on what work had been done at what $ cost, so I checked "fuel system/idle adjustment" and "carburetor" and "$150" - and was handed the PASS :bounce: 392 of 400 :hillbilly: :hillbilly: :hillbilly:

immediately drove the several miles to the DMV, which turned out to be a complete zoo - packed solid at 4:35; long lines snaking around corners . . . . . . I am dreading this already . . . .

and then I see this "kiosk", like one of those airline check-in machines - and would you know it, that machine knew that I had passed emissions already :bounce: - it just charged my credit card and printed the tag - no, really, I do not want to apply for the waiver of the penalty; between waiting in line and the $12, that was an easy choice :hillbilly: - literally, 2 minutes IN-OUT :eek:

:bounce:

:grinpimp:

so, wheeling tomorrow is on :steer:
 
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Glad it worked out for you. Have fun out there. :clap:
 
Sierra Ancha Mountains northeast of Phoenix, AZ
 
so, here are some observations from my first real wheeling trip with the H55F: keep in mind, I also switched from 33s to 315 tires recently and have only had a couple wheeling outings (with the old 4spd) on the 315s before today - so I am reporting on the combined change

- should you attempt to start driving up a hill while in 5th gear, you will experience a good case of 'sudden death syndrome' (feels like someone knocked the wind out of truck within 10 feet) - I apologize to Bob in the 80 right behind me, and to Ken in the Toyota pickup for the second occasion :cheers: - never again uphill in 5th :doh:

- timing the shift into 4th and then 3rd just right, the truck can maintain 60 on long uphills, and on milder inclines has power to accelerate in 3rd

- the low 1st gear does not bother me the least in the city or on the trail; it's just nice to know second gear start works just as well if I am lazy in town

- both the 1st and 2nd are really great in low range - uphills are more controlled even with the larger tires, and downhills on the trail can now be a lot more often "look Ma, no brakes" :hillbilly:

overall, I feel the truck gained versatility - and while it took a while, it was definitely worth it :bounce: :clap:

the icing on the cake is that I can use my OEM under-dash parking brake lever to pull a working parking brake - hopefully, there'll be some pictures of this custom fabrication marvel soon

:cool:
 
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so, the other day we take a test drive/wheeling in an area close to town - as the truck flexes on a hillclimb, I hear this TERRIBLE noise :eek: - it goes away, but comes back on another milder climb - also, the transfer case pops out of gear . . .

turns out: the fan was shredding itself on the fan shroud :eek: (which also took the fan clutch out of commission) :mad: as the transmission/transfer case moved around by 2 inches :eek: the transfer case lever hits the body and pops out of gear :mad: all of this due to a broken motor mount - quality carnage pics to follow :hillbilly:

you can see me reaching over to keep it in gear . . . fun times :hillbilly:

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pics of the carnage to follow

Only found one. :redface:

Replaced the mount. Trimmed the fan to the first little "wing" and swapped the vatozone clutch for an Aisin. Problem solved.
Fan.jpg
 
As mentioned, we went round with the fuel delivery issue, the only determination was; the pickup tube has an air leak inside the tank.:( Don't understand Toyota only stocking the early tank, could stock the '72 version, ship it with plugs for the vents that the early rigs don't need and cover everything?:confused:

Anyways, the only option was a later ('76) tank. When inspecting it, found this treasure in it!
Tank_1.jpg


First issue, the early sender wont fit, the metal ring at the top is too large to fit the opening.
Tank_2.jpg


Filled it with water, and took after it with the die grinder/carbide burr, only needed ~1/8" and that problem was solved.
Tank_3.jpg
 
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The bottom had some rust, not bad, slight pitting. Cleaned it up, treated, shot spray bomb.
Tank_4.jpg

Comparing, other than the connections, the cans look/measure the same.
Tank_5.jpg

Tank_6.jpg

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The floor had felts, some original, some replaced.
Tank_8.jpg


Cleaned it up.
Tank_9.jpg


Replaced the felt with some rubber, flat on one side, ribbed on the other. Cut strips the same width as double sided carpet tape, put it on the smooth side and stuck them to the floor. Hopeful that it will reduce future rusting?
Tank_10.jpg

Tank_11.jpg
 
The stock filler elbow was too short. The neck measures ~2-1/8", best we could find was 2-1/4".
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With that solved, snatched it out and gave it a full spray bomb.
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The main vent line is 14mm at the tank, 12mm at the neck, used 9/16" fuel hose, worked.
Tank_14.jpg


All of the small vents on the tank are 8mm, some on the vapor separator are 10mm, so used 5/16" or 3/8" as needed, worked.
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May make a cover, or not.
Tank_16.jpg
 
Tools R Us do you tune FJ40's? And DSRTR are you in Arizona? I am in Prescott Valley and need some help on my 40.
 

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