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- #761
yes and yes (part time/snowbird) - I responded to your PM
the DSRTRDR is getting some TLC . . .
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Hi DSRTRDR,
I just now read your posts on the fuel tank. I purchased the earlier tank for my 8/72 fj40 and then took it to a radiator shop in central phoenix to have three vent lines and a fuel return line for my 3FE installed in it. The whole cost was less than $50 and it works great. The only downfall is that i wanted to powder coat the tank and couldn't because they used solder to attach the new lines and the oven would have melted it.
Now i need to title and register it. I'm thinking of going the classic car route and bypass emissions but would love some feedback on the emissions testing in AZ. Can they look under the hood to see that I don't have the original engine? My 3FE is de-smogged and I'm worried that I may run into trouble.
Curt
I just now read your posts on the fuel tank. I purchased the earlier tank for my 8/72 fj40 and then took it to a radiator shop in central phoenix to have three vent lines and a fuel return line for my 3FE installed in it. The whole cost was less than $50 and it works great. The only downfall is that i wanted to powder coat the tank and couldn't because they used solder to attach the new lines and the oven would have melted it.
Now i need to title and register it. I'm thinking of going the classic car route and bypass emissions but would love some feedback on the emissions testing in AZ. Can they look under the hood to see that I don't have the original engine? My 3FE is de-smogged and I'm worried that I may run into trouble.
Curt
- Thread starter
- #763
'72 does not get a visual inspection under the hood
they test the gas tank lid and do the sniffer test
I have a desmogged 2F in my 40 - no problem getting through emissions
they test the gas tank lid and do the sniffer test
I have a desmogged 2F in my 40 - no problem getting through emissions
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Haven't kept this up to date, so here is a bit.
Have done a ton of fiddly stuff, one was the brakes. They worked but had some tuning issues that we didn't like, the rears locked first and the pedal was short and solid.
Swapped the FJ62 calipers (43mm and 34mm piston) out to a pair of 4Runner calipers (all four pistons 45mm). This increased the hydraulic leverage, made the pedal throw longer, easier to modulate, and overall more powerful for the same pedal effort. The effect is bias to the front, so solved the rears locking first thing.
Had to trim the backing plates slightly, other than that, bolt on.
Have done a ton of fiddly stuff, one was the brakes. They worked but had some tuning issues that we didn't like, the rears locked first and the pedal was short and solid.Swapped the FJ62 calipers (43mm and 34mm piston) out to a pair of 4Runner calipers (all four pistons 45mm). This increased the hydraulic leverage, made the pedal throw longer, easier to modulate, and overall more powerful for the same pedal effort. The effect is bias to the front, so solved the rears locking first thing.
Had to trim the backing plates slightly, other than that, bolt on.
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Slobbered paint on the rear of the tub. Good thing our paint guy has patience, took some doing to make it close!
The new emblems and backup light (yes, it's wired, works) that will soon be unceremoniously covered by the spare tire!
At this point, the tail gate was not cooperating, didn't like paint, finding the correct hardware, etc.
The new emblems and backup light (yes, it's wired, works) that will soon be unceremoniously covered by the spare tire!
At this point, the tail gate was not cooperating, didn't like paint, finding the correct hardware, etc.
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When using the dash e-brake handle with the FJ62 brakes there are a couple of challenges. The two cables don't cleanly couple and the travel/leverage is off. So, made this lever/bellcrank, it reduces the travel by half and increases the leverage by double.
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Some wheeling pix.
A Hitit66 emblem, painted to match.
A Hitit66 emblem, painted to match.
1911
chupacabra
Haven't kept this up to date, so here is a bit.
Swapped the FJ62 calipers (43mm and 34mm piston) out to a pair of 4Runner calipers (all four pistons 45mm). This increased the hydraulic leverage, made the pedal throw longer, easier to modulate, and overall more powerful for the same pedal effort. The effect is bias to the front, so solved the rears locking first thing.
Had to trim the backing plates slightly, other than that, bolt on.
Hmmm..., I wonder if these would fit under stock steel wheels? Good idea and execution in any event.
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- #769
thanks for posting the picsare you missing the truck yet ?
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Not likely, they are big. Another option is the S12W, 4 X 43mm pistons, closer to the S12+8 in size.
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are you missing the truck yet ?
Not so much, Rootbeer is doing a good job of taking up the slack!
- Thread starter
- #772
so, the other day (that was two weeks ago) I get to drive the truck home - find I need some fuel before going 15 miles up the hill - turn into a gas station . . .
when I try to start again, I get nothing - just a click (so the wire didn't fall off), but the starter does not turn over
I wait some 10-15 minutes letting the truck cool down, turn the key, cranks fine - off we go
when I try to start again, I get nothing - just a click (so the wire didn't fall off), but the starter does not turn over
I wait some 10-15 minutes letting the truck cool down, turn the key, cranks fine - off we go
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- #773
fast forward to emissions testing yesterday:
I make sure I drive the truck so it's nicely hot as I pull into the station - get onto the rollers, instructed to shut the truck off
the tester gets into the vehicle, turns the key - NADA
- [what a fine start to emissions testing in 105 degrees heat 
]
having had the former experience, I let them push me off the rollers, pull to the side of the building, let the truck cool down some and the try again (not so confident anymore that it will pass emissions with a cooler motor) - yes, it starts, and it even does it again when the tester gets into the vehicle again . . .
I make sure I drive the truck so it's nicely hot as I pull into the station - get onto the rollers, instructed to shut the truck off
the tester gets into the vehicle, turns the key - NADA
- [what a fine start to emissions testing in 105 degrees heat ]having had the former experience, I let them push me off the rollers, pull to the side of the building, let the truck cool down some and the try again (not so confident anymore that it will pass emissions with a cooler motor) - yes, it starts, and it even does it again when the tester gets into the vehicle again . . .
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splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Claudia, wow! Stunning...Hats off to you, Kevin, and John for putting this all together.
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- Thread starter
- #775
so, testing proceeds and the truck passed 
(no adjustments since last year, but the exhaust leaks have been fixed)
so then today, Tools R Us took the starter apart - turns out that whoever did the rebuild, did not seat the starter contacts properly - so one of the contacts wasn't actually making contact when the starter got hot
- (I got the starter about a year ago on account that gear reduction starters were more reliable than the vintage model from which the wire occasionally fell off )
we didn't take pictures, but the burn marks on the starter contacts clearly showed the one side making contact only on one corner, if at all
once the contacts were properly seated, the truck starts just fine - even after 15 miles up the hill in 110 degrees at 2:30 - 3pm
stupid simple thing
(no adjustments since last year, but the exhaust leaks have been fixed)so then today, Tools R Us took the starter apart - turns out that whoever did the rebuild, did not seat the starter contacts properly - so one of the contacts wasn't actually making contact when the starter got hot
- (I got the starter about a year ago on account that gear reduction starters were more reliable than the vintage model from which the wire occasionally fell off )we didn't take pictures, but the burn marks on the starter contacts clearly showed the one side making contact only on one corner, if at all
once the contacts were properly seated, the truck starts just fine - even after 15 miles up the hill in 110 degrees at 2:30 - 3pm
stupid simple thing
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Pretty much the same starter in our Case loaders. I keep a stockpile of them. Something else for you add to the schlep kit.
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- #777
yup, ordered another one already
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The starter is a Remy reman, not impressed. Has a bunch of generic parts in it, not necessarily bad, some of the generic contacts are serviceable. On this one, one of the contacts was wrong, parts were missing, poor workmanship.
IMHO, the Denso reman is the best we have seen, likely the same starter as from the dealer. The one to order is; DENSO Part # 2800117.
IMHO, the Denso reman is the best we have seen, likely the same starter as from the dealer. The one to order is; DENSO Part # 2800117.
- Thread starter
- #779
I get to drive it again next week
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Slobbered paint on the rear of the tub. Good thing our paint guy has patience, took some doing to make it close!
View attachment 1109117
The new emblems and backup light (yes, it's wired, works) that will soon be unceremoniously covered by the spare tire!
View attachment 1109118
At this point, the tail gate was not cooperating, didn't like paint, finding the correct hardware, etc.
View attachment 1109119
You guys have totally screwed this truck up. Now it's WAY TOO NICE to take anywhere but the garage.
Seriously, excellent result.
