No sig lines here señor,
and viewing the website on an iPhone screen is hard on the looking balls.
A question, if I may.
Is soda a preference for stripping the body?
Is sand not a good idea for the same?
Techster’s 1973 FJ55 buildup... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter treerootCO
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No sig lines here señor,
and viewing the website on an iPhone screen is hard on the looking balls.
A question, if I may.
Is soda a preference for stripping the body?
Is sand not a good idea for the same?
sand can be done, but at lower pressure. at high pressure and can warp sheetmetal. a good blaster can adjust for metal thickness
Reiterated what the blaster said.....but had less than a good experience with same guy media blasting 80 wheels, so reason for question.
May need to find someone else.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Come to CO, I have an awesome blaster up here!
The rod was cut, then drilled and tapped so that it is about .5" past the plate when it's in the locked position.
The cable came with the locker. I wish I could remember where I got it. I need to order one for the rear. woody turned me on to the guy I got it from and he doesn't remember either.
The hold on spring is just like the pull off spring. The e locker needs 4 lbs to hold it on. The spring does that perfectly.
I've been wheeling it hard for a while now with the cable and its finally working perfectly. Never pops out. Actuates faster than the electric, although with the same types of problems getting the dogs to engage and disengage. You can't unlock it under power easily. Sometimes you need differing wheel speeds to get it to engage. Straight line, no slip won't let it engage every time.
The cable came with the locker. I wish I could remember where I got it. I need to order one for the rear. woody turned me on to the guy I got it from and he doesn't remember either.
The hold on spring is just like the pull off spring. The e locker needs 4 lbs to hold it on. The spring does that perfectly.
I've been wheeling it hard for a while now with the cable and its finally working perfectly. Never pops out. Actuates faster than the electric, although with the same types of problems getting the dogs to engage and disengage. You can't unlock it under power easily. Sometimes you need differing wheel speeds to get it to engage. Straight line, no slip won't let it engage every time.
Soda is better, but you have to clean it really well. If the soda in the cracks and seams leeches after the paint it can cause a lot of problems.
The sand worked well except the blaster broke the windows in the doors. He used coal coke on the big flat panels like the roof and hood and kept it all straight. Take the glass out. We taped the crap out of it and they still shattered.
I chemically stripped the LV and coal blasted the SWB.
The sand worked well except the blaster broke the windows in the doors. He used coal coke on the big flat panels like the roof and hood and kept it all straight. Take the glass out. We taped the crap out of it and they still shattered.
I chemically stripped the LV and coal blasted the SWB.
I read a similar question earlier, but don't know that a reply was given.
If the split glass stripping is the concern, as far as removing and risking not ever being able to seal again, why not chemically strip all but those doors?
If the split glass stripping is the concern, as far as removing and risking not ever being able to seal again, why not chemically strip all but those doors?
hopefully not the same guy that did elises pig...i'm pretty sure he was done with pigs
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I am guessing it was...
TBI finally in and working. It would run, but not well and it wouldn't idle at all. The fuel pump that came with the TBI set up that I bought was weak. I changed out the fuel pump with a different one I had and it ran better. Still wouldn't idle with the return spring on. Drilled out the throttle stop screw cover and set base idle and got it to run good in the shop. Still needs some testing under load and rpm, but I'm feeling better about it now.
York is in and working. Still need to mount the switch and put the filter on and fit the air line fitting.
York is in and working. Still need to mount the switch and put the filter on and fit the air line fitting.
Mounted the filter and switch today. I'm going to need a pressure switch yet and maybe a reservoir tank.
Turns out only one injector was firing. two cylinders on each side were barely getting any fuel. ran pretty good on four cylinders. Runs better on 8 now that I found the problem.
Turns out only one injector was firing. two cylinders on each side were barely getting any fuel. ran pretty good on four cylinders. Runs better on 8 now that I found the problem.
Gumby,
Here's a site for an air tank. http://bagriders.com/modlab/categories/MANAGEMENT/AIR-TANKS/AIR-TANKS/ I'm thinking about useing one with my Puma compressor.
I don't know how you manage to juggle three projects and getting more done than me with just one. Good Job!
We need a few updated pictures.
Here's a site for an air tank. http://bagriders.com/modlab/categories/MANAGEMENT/AIR-TANKS/AIR-TANKS/ I'm thinking about useing one with my Puma compressor.
I don't know how you manage to juggle three projects and getting more done than me with just one. Good Job!
We need a few updated pictures.
Picked up a 2.5G Craftsman air compressor with a bad seal on the compressor. Took the motor and compressor off. Hooked the ground side of the york up to the pressure switch and grounded the other side. Ran the brass line through the floor and hooked up the air line from the york to that. Bolted the tank to the floor beside the fuel cell in the back. I kept the switch I ran next to the compressor so I have a double fail safe in case the wire running all the way to the back grounds out somehow.
With the tiny tank it doesn't take long to get the tank up to 120 psi and then it shuts off just like it should. I pumped up a couple of tires on the LV that were low. It goes from 10 to 35 psi in just a couple of minutes.
The CO2 tank and bracket will probably go in the SWB 45.
With the tiny tank it doesn't take long to get the tank up to 120 psi and then it shuts off just like it should. I pumped up a couple of tires on the LV that were low. It goes from 10 to 35 psi in just a couple of minutes.
The CO2 tank and bracket will probably go in the SWB 45.
Gumby,
Nice setup!
Will you have to drain any condensation from the tank like a regular air compressor. I have a Puma, but haven't mounted it yet and thinking about a drain hose. Since your tank is seperate from the pump, wasn't sure about water.
Nice setup!
Will you have to drain any condensation from the tank like a regular air compressor. I have a Puma, but haven't mounted it yet and thinking about a drain hose. Since your tank is seperate from the pump, wasn't sure about water.
I don't know yet but because it was a air compressor once it already has a drain petcock.
Thinking out loud here, would the air cool in route to the tank and water collect in the hose, at the lowest point?
Might have to put in a drain at that point.
Might have to put in a drain at that point.
Probably will collect in the hose. I was thinking that as well. Easy enough to plumb in a drain.
Bought a 6.0L for it. 125,000 miles. I think it's gonna get cleaned up and just dropped in with a little bit of PCM tuning. The pig doesn't need any more than 320 hp. as it is I think I should upgrade to an Orion. I'm thinking about replacing the coils and shocks in the rear for coilovers or airshocks as well. Theres a CO builder here in Big Rapids I need to check out.
and a pic, just because I havent posted one in a while. It's been a while since the motor has run right.
and a pic, just because I havent posted one in a while. It's been a while since the motor has run right.
You will not regret going with the 4:1 Orion. I love mine and if you keep your crawler box it gives a great range of gearing. One of the best upgrades I have made.
The engine swap has begun. The motor is all disconnected from the truck. I just need to figure out how I want to set the engine lift up to pull it. My new home shop is too narrow to get the engine lift around the truck when it's on the hoist.
I will probably pull the motor, put the tires back on, tow the pig out and powerwash the engine bay. Then pull the swb in to pull the motor on it, tow it out and back into the unheated part of the pole barn, then winch the pig back on the hoist.
Clearly what I should do it insulate and heat the whole barn and put in a second hoist. Then pull down the wall between what is now the shop and the rest of the pole barn.
I will probably pull the motor, put the tires back on, tow the pig out and powerwash the engine bay. Then pull the swb in to pull the motor on it, tow it out and back into the unheated part of the pole barn, then winch the pig back on the hoist.
Clearly what I should do it insulate and heat the whole barn and put in a second hoist. Then pull down the wall between what is now the shop and the rest of the pole barn.
