1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

taking apart fj-40...

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Dirt_is_our_friend, Jan 4, 2004.

  1. I am taking apart my 78 for a frame off resto. I want to know are there any tips i should look for while taking it apart? i am taking pictures everywhere and put all the bolts w/ there sizes thread pitch and where they go in there...........any other tipe i should do? :cheers: i am getting a aqulaua (spelling?)tub and cowl and front fender and am getting the shock mounts all around gusseted and then i am going to have my frame pc'ed along with misc. bolt heads....................this ine is gonna be the baby of my begining fleet :cheers: :D
     
  2. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    10,679
    Likes Received:
    1,697
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2003
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    Put parts in plastic bags as you take them off and catalogue them as you go. Even the ones that break so when you put it back together you will know what it looked like.
     
  3. cruiseroutfit

    cruiseroutfit Supporting Vendor Moderator

    Messages:
    7,283
    Likes Received:
    3,886
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2003
    Location:
    Utah
    I wouldn't waste your time getting bolt heads powder-coated, just get new hardware (either zinc or SS)... the PC will just chip off and rust as you assemble and maintain the vehicle.
     
  4. hammerhead

    hammerhead

    Messages:
    1,995
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2003
    Location:
    Central, Utah
    Pics help too. Sort of a blue print. By the time you go to put it back together you may not remember exactly how it was. 8)
     
  5. Yo_Han

    Yo_Han

    Messages:
    477
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2003
    Location:
    Apex, NC
    Definately agree with these guys. You can NEVER take too many pix.... I wish I took more when I pulled mine apart, but this is my first resto and I didn't have this resourse. The more detailed you go with pictures and especailly when you bag and tag parts, the more you will thank yourself when you get to putting her back together.

    Good luck with!
    Yo Han
     
  6. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

    Messages:
    6,164
    Likes Received:
    13
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    Location:
    Georgia Tech
    Get the big tub of Permatex Anti-Sieze w/ brush. Slop that on all the bolts.
    If I was going to the trouble of true frame-off, I would seriously look into using only SS hardware.
     
  7. Brog

    Brog

    Messages:
    182
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2003
    Location:
    Chattavegas, TN
    Not just pixs, digital pixs.
    If you don't have a digital camera then get one. Even an el cheepo is fine.
    Take more pixs than you think are necessary, from every angle.
    Of course baggies and a dedicated notebook.
    Get in good with someone who owns a bead-blast cabinet or buy one.
    Oh, and get another job too because it'll cost 3 times what you think it will.
    Worth every drop of blood though.
    Good luck,
    Brog

    :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
     
  8. pappy

    pappy photosynthesizing Moderator

    Messages:
    8,371
    Media:
    78
    Albums:
    7
    Likes Received:
    384
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2003
    Location:
    Palm trees and cool streams
    Pics, ya don't need no pics :D. I'm in the process of taking apart a 7/69. I started out taking great notes and pics, and stopped because the thing was so simple. Maybe your 78 is more complex. I did bag up and label things that needed it. In general, since all the fasteners were so rusty I'm trashing them and replacing with stainless. www.mcmaster.com is a good source.

    A couple of other differences between you and me. My vehicle suffered from a serious case of PO. There really wasn't much left to document, especially the dash. I'm not doing a "restoration" but what I consider a "renovation." I'm not even going to try and take it back to showroom condition. Some features will be upgraded (drivetrain, harness, and switches) so there is no need to know what was there.

    One suggestion ... get an impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer. It will save your butt, especially on the phillip head screws.
     
  9. Yo_Han

    Yo_Han

    Messages:
    477
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2003
    Location:
    Apex, NC
    ...cans of PBblaster :eek: and presoak if ya can
     
  10. brian

    brian SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,245
    Likes Received:
    1,670
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2003
    Location:
    lebanon,pa
    stainless fasterns are not the "all shiny never rusting gift from god" that people seem to think, they do have a dark side as well.

    a stainless bolt going in to a weld-nut on the frame or tub is fine, what can get you into trouble is when you start threading both SS nuts AND bolts togther.
    when using ss fasterns you MUST lube the threads other wise you're just asking for problems. that and it's alot easier to twist off a ss bolt compared to a "common" bolt.

    and when you pull those 25 yr old bolts out, you might be amazed by how much gold zinc is still left on them, and while they might have been rusted in solid. just remember it took 25 yrs to get like that.

    i work in a SS fab shop, but despite that you won't find one bit of ss on any of my trucks.
     
  11. IDave

    IDave

    Messages:
    7,167
    Media:
    1
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Location:
    McCall, ID
    Do you re-plate your old bolts with zinc, Brian? I am kinda thinking of doing that if it is at all practical.
     
  12. brian

    brian SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,245
    Likes Received:
    1,670
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2003
    Location:
    lebanon,pa
    no, i don't think that's practical at all. and i'm not even sure that gold stuff on orginal fasterns is even zinc, but it sure does last.

    i just use high grade steel bolts, the chances of them rusting up like the last time is unlikly, what with the paint and undercoating stuff and the regular washing and so on...
     
  13. Yo_Han

    Yo_Han

    Messages:
    477
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2003
    Location:
    Apex, NC
    When I was in the local hardware store getting some new stainless nutts and bolts, the old guy in the shop recommended to stay with grade 8 for the fixtures that are subdued to allota stress instead of stainless... he stated that stainless is much weaker than Grade8, which made sense. I have used stainless on pieces that are exposed to the elements, but with structural and large stress areas I've stuck with grade8.

    the old guy's 2 cents ;)
    Yo Han
     
  14. IDave

    IDave

    Messages:
    7,167
    Media:
    1
    Albums:
    1
    Likes Received:
    24
    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2003
    Location:
    McCall, ID
    I have noticed that stainless bolts into standard steel holes = accellerated rust from the standard steel. I am told that this is because the difference in metals results in a higher rate of electrolysis or somesuch. Perhaps someone out there can explain it better.
     
  15. nocents

    nocents SILVER Star

    Messages:
    475
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2003
    Stainless bolt are ~grade 3 so use them accordingly. Dis-similar metal set up electrolsis with leads to accererated corrosion.