- Thread starter
- #61
The whole emission system was removed.
Builds Sweet Caroline: 1977 FJ40 Build
- Thread starter RustyR
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #64
Got some new stuff recently.
Installed some weathertech floor mats in the driver and passenger floor.
Got a stereo system installed as well. JL Audio amp under Tuffy box, 2 Hertz tweeters on the dash, 2 Hertz speaker boxes under the jump seats, and 2 Hertz speakers under the kick out air vents. Head unit is in the front of the Tuffy box.
Hertz speakers under kick out vents
Kenwood head unit
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Installed some weathertech floor mats in the driver and passenger floor.
Got a stereo system installed as well. JL Audio amp under Tuffy box, 2 Hertz tweeters on the dash, 2 Hertz speaker boxes under the jump seats, and 2 Hertz speakers under the kick out air vents. Head unit is in the front of the Tuffy box.
Hertz speakers under kick out vents
....\/
- Thread starter
- #65
Continued...
Speaker box
Also picked up some new oil and filters. Was wondering what oil you guys use in your 2F engines. I got 10W-30. Seems like it will work fine. Changing oil tomorrow.
Fram PH8A. I heard on MUD that a PH8 filter is the way to go and the guy at Autozone looked this up on the database and decided they were the same.
Merry Christmas!
Speaker box
Also picked up some new oil and filters. Was wondering what oil you guys use in your 2F engines. I got 10W-30. Seems like it will work fine. Changing oil tomorrow.
Fram PH8A. I heard on MUD that a PH8 filter is the way to go and the guy at Autozone looked this up on the database and decided they were the same.
Merry Christmas!
A lot of us run 15/40 diesel oil , the 10/30 is a bit light but it also depends on engine condition . Be aware that flat tappet cams need the zinc content found in engine oils of the past - the current offerings do not have that high level and it can hurt the cam/lifters quickly . Many use zinc additives or break-in oils to compensate - I use Rislone x2 bottles of concentrate along with the Delo diesel engine oil which is rated at 1200 ppm of zinc . I'm absolutely no fan of Fram oil filters or any of the other cheap brands - if you want the tall style filter try a Wix 51515 , same base diameter and a direct crossover to the Fram PH8A style . Or , just get the current Toyota oil filter , it's a bit shorter but a very high quality - I buy 'em by the case ....
Sarge
Sarge
iptman
SILVER Star
Did you weld up the 3 holes on the doors where the OEM side view mirrors went?
x2 on thicker oil and Toyota (or Wix) filters. I use Rotella T6 in both my 1Fz and 2F. Luckily they both take the same oil filter so getting them a case at a time makes sense. And for 8 more oil changes get the old school small Toyota filter made of unicorn tears.
BTW, what month 77 does it say on the driver's door jam data plate? Mine is a 7/1977 CA spec but doesn't have the fan under the hood. Mine has the standard air intake horn and not the elbow like yours does. Did you put the fan back in or leave it out?
x2 on thicker oil and Toyota (or Wix) filters. I use Rotella T6 in both my 1Fz and 2F. Luckily they both take the same oil filter so getting them a case at a time makes sense. And for 8 more oil changes get the old school small Toyota filter made of unicorn tears.
BTW, what month 77 does it say on the driver's door jam data plate? Mine is a 7/1977 CA spec but doesn't have the fan under the hood. Mine has the standard air intake horn and not the elbow like yours does. Did you put the fan back in or leave it out?
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What a turn-around. Love the xmas wreath. How are you enjoying her?
- Thread starter
- #69
Yes. The OEM mirror holes are welded. The date stamp says September 1976, but I am told everything after September didn't make it to the U.S. until the next year so the manufacturing isn't based on a calendar year. The fan is also removed.Did you weld up the 3 holes on the doors where the OEM side view mirrors went?
x2 on thicker oil and Toyota (or Wix) filters. I use Rotella T6 in both my 1Fz and 2F. Luckily they both take the same oil filter so getting them a case at a time makes sense. And for 8 more oil changes get the old school small Toyota filter made of unicorn tears.
BTW, what month 77 does it say on the driver's door jam data plate? Mine is a 7/1977 CA spec but doesn't have the fan under the hood. Mine has the standard air intake horn and not the elbow like yours does. Did you put the fan back in or leave it out?
brian
SILVER Star
just to be clear. the manufacture date is based on the calendar year. the model year does not necessarily always follow the calendar year. not uncommon for the model year to begin in sept or oct. '75 and '98 being some of the exceptions, where the model began in jan.
Looks great Russell!
- Thread starter
- #74
I did not rebuild the engine. Is this still a problem even though the engine is broken in?
Many of us run thicker oil due to its detergent levels, the age of the engine and the higher zddp levels. If you are running regular oil, it is beneficial to hit up pep boys for some engine break-in fluid... it is pretty much zddp and is good for flat tappet mechanical lifters.
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The whole issue is the solid lifter cam setup - it requires around 1800ppm of zinc and nearly no oil made today has that . Many run them without additives and the results long term are yet to be seen on cam/lifter wear ...
Sarge
Sarge
I haven't come across people using "diesel-specific oils" in petrol engines before...
Just how widespread is this Sarge?
PS. (To explain my position):
I know some oils (like the "Castrol GTX' Russel is using) state they can be used in both petrol and diesel engines but I prefer to stick with oils designed specifically for the fuel I use (petrol or diesel) in the belief that the requirements of these different engine-species are too different from each other. So I regard Castrol GTX as an oil designed principally for PETROL engines that can, if you really want the convenience of "having one oil for both types", be used in a diesel.
As I understand it, a diesel (especially an "old-school one" like mine) has a particularly high need for "detergent additive" to keep the carbon (produced from burning the fuel) held in suspension rather than leaving it to gum up piston rings etc. (My diesel produces much more black carbon than any petrol engine.) And I'm not sure this "high detergent level" won't have a harmful effect on a petrol engine (although I'm not sure how).
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I'll look for links I used and read here.
I spent to much time reading about the different oils out there on here and some people spent a lot of time even months researching and learning through experience.
I remember reading the Rotella diesel oil is preferred by many. And most all suggest using a zddp additive like mentioned above. I used the stp brand in a blue bottle at most auto parts stores on my first oil change and then read on here it's not the best. I plan on using what sarge recommend on here as I have read it is better.
But everyone agrees an additive is needed to help prevent wear. There's a debate between the available Toyota filters and the bigger filter from places like Napa. Both are probably good.
I spent to much time reading about the different oils out there on here and some people spent a lot of time even months researching and learning through experience.
I remember reading the Rotella diesel oil is preferred by many. And most all suggest using a zddp additive like mentioned above. I used the stp brand in a blue bottle at most auto parts stores on my first oil change and then read on here it's not the best. I plan on using what sarge recommend on here as I have read it is better.
But everyone agrees an additive is needed to help prevent wear. There's a debate between the available Toyota filters and the bigger filter from places like Napa. Both are probably good.
DTSkyCop
SILVER Star
Cruiser looks great! Nice work...
