Builds SupraCruza (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

all the fenders are not done buttt they are on there at leastšŸ˜‚
F4C837BC-9F43-465F-A35B-3F31AAE7081D.jpeg

This thing just makes the ground look smallšŸ˜‚
ABF582A0-0ED2-4646-B120-D0A735D7A9DD.jpeg
DDF0D80F-EE11-423F-994C-B3E077E1A01E.jpeg
38CF7A5C-24A8-4241-9795-31C7F906E344.jpeg
201A62BA-616C-4138-B8AA-D80BA9992EE6.jpeg
 
Needs gullwing doors!
 
it's like if toyota built a halo warthog
 
I think Iā€™m only going to do this sidešŸ˜‚
Creased seams door side and tacked on some tig rod for the other it survived the slams test no idea if itā€™ll hold up at 120 mph or even 70 or a small tree but thatā€™s the fun part.
F8940675-8845-42C9-98EF-5A3144F5B63F.jpeg
252046CA-6C15-4F4E-B1B9-A5BB5ED27BAB.jpeg
F66BEBF3-551B-46A3-9544-2493DD29A09F.jpeg

Found my nasty exhaust leak tried to tighten the bolt and a new stud finally wound up re tapping it taking the turbo off and welding 6 nuts onto itšŸ˜‚
Also added more spring to the wastegate hit 12psi of boost in first with the tires spinning such a huge improvement over the big eBay turbo
Iā€™ll get a video soon trying to wrap up the front and rear body work
Dropped the front diff off at a shop to get it re geared and then need to final mount the front diff and get axles ordered then in theory and only that itā€™s time to start breaking s***šŸ˜‚
2588DFEF-50F1-4479-AF2C-4149FEA52B99.jpeg
1DE42306-2704-41B1-BA85-D08D816E30BC.jpeg
 
Starting on the steering arms v2

Current issues
Play in the steering
-this is due to the steering actual box since I shortened the arm Iā€™ve noticed that I can turn the wheel quite a bit before anything budges
And if I turn the wheels with the steering wheel locked they both point at the actual box

Lots of boring little issues like angular forces on the steering box
Trying to get a more linear feel on the wheel but also less rotations
It wonā€™t be as strong but will be adding hydro assist to help

Front is getting hydro bumps
Front diff is at a shop getting re geared
Temporary trans is still working for some reason


I have decided that the r150f r1fa is a great trans case combo but I think Iā€™m at its limit
If anyone wants it lmk

Iā€™d like to move to a t56 mag atlas comboā€¦. If I can find one for a decent price

Either way going to do a shakedown run early October at little Sahara
F35519B8-2420-4982-8CAD-9AA1C8A0E028.jpeg
96E4F500-FD38-4246-A695-43FF2EC283EF.jpeg

Engine needs a tune pretty bad since I upped the boost, this part of the map isnā€™t tuned but it still rips pretty good

I have another 2j on the stand atm
 
One month till SICK JUMPS

New tires on the way RIP iroks
Couldnā€™t get a spare or replacement
Moving to a pro comp extreme terrain 40x13.5

Amazing how much time goes into the little things
Like 4 hours for a custom cutting brake
Utilizing the rear drums and also using it as a parking brake

New horns Dixie horn died I think it ate somethingšŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø

Playing around with the ducting for the rear radiator

Canā€™t wait to see what this thing can do in some sand dunes
67C57A2F-FDA3-45DB-825B-5E82EDC4103E.jpeg
1A9354AA-D1C0-407E-8AB3-3B2999F53AFD.jpeg
DD68261A-8573-4189-A9CD-0B3FAF841879.jpeg
8C45F2DC-5C6F-4C07-BAD1-97079A77BA58.jpeg
 
Basically I screwed up again... have a lot of reverse akerman at extreme steering angles... but i know how to fix it. Any steering rack that is mounted forward of the centerline of the steering tie rod mount on the spindle side produces negative Akerman. I thought i could get away with doing some weird stuff with the swing arms but no luck. So my options are to move the frame side mount back or the spindle side mount forward or a combo of both. Crazy how much has changed as far as how i go about building things. I remember trying to model the 2j in cad based off of pictures. Still chuggin along getting the truck ready for little Sahara
who is anchorman.PNG
 
Just an observation, from seeing KOH competitors failures of front IFS parts IMO the upper and lower A arms attachments points on frame have to thin metal, the bottoms have a good brace but still thin metal tangs where bolt goes thru, the top needs some plates across top, box it up and still the thin part that reaches out to bolt is suspect, maybe another plate across front to double that part. FWIW the cast nuckle(especially the tower) have failed on impact for some people. I see the gussets, they look good just a point to keep an eye on for stress/fatique failures.
 
Just an observation, from seeing KOH competitors failures of front IFS parts IMO the upper and lower A arms attachments points on frame have to thin metal, the bottoms have a good brace but still thin metal tangs where bolt goes thru, the top needs some plates across top, box it up and still the thin part that reaches out to bolt is suspect, maybe another plate across front to double that part. FWIW the cast nuckle(especially the tower) have failed on impact for some people. I see the gussets, they look good just a point to keep an eye on for stress/fatique failures.
I agree on the uppers just have been to lazy lol
I believe pretty much all spindles from Toyota are forged which makes adding to them easy and also increases their strength
As for the upper J arm mounting points-Iā€™d like to put a winch around there and was thinking Iā€™d mount the winch plate to those!
The original plan was to put a tube in between the mounting point and one long bolt but because of the winch idea I have put it on hold
Yeah ideally for ever bolt mounting point you want to lathe a bolt insert thing to get a symmetrical cylindrical mounting surface so the load is distributed evenly and wonā€™t woller out.
The bottom is stacked 3/8ā€ but obviously Iā€™d be happy with over half an inch.
Thanks for the input!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom