Builds #superslinky 80 build thread. (1 Viewer)

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New axles become very expensive very quick especially when you start talking custom. I think unless there is a huge need 90% of people would be better off bettering their LC axles with chromo birfs, trusses, etc. Of course there is going to be a few hardcore guys that need custom axles. And just for grins when I saw the Spidertrax 10% off sale I put together 2 of their Spider 9 4" Pro series axles and complete assemblies without center sections were $17,000. Lol. Yeah I am going to stick with my 80 axles.

He's not building a normal 80 either, not many 80's push north of 850 hp.... A factory 5.3 makes more than enough torque to shed the 9.5", and forget the front axle all together.... Ultra 4 has shown us that naturally aspirated LS3's can chew up factory 1 tons with ease, at 2000lbs less weight...
 
Not likely. I have 2x the torque of a 5.3 my axles have been fine.

He's not building a normal 80 either, not many 80's push north of 850 hp.... A factory 5.3 makes more than enough torque to shed the 9.5", and forget the front axle all together....
 
Not likely. I have 2x the torque of a 5.3 my axles have been fine.

Cool, how do you use it, what size tires....


We have broke GM dana 60 (front 3.125 OD .5" wall, DOM tubes) in half, on the long tube from racing with a factory LQ9 and a 4L80... (with a FJ40 that weighs in at about 4500 lbs, on 37s)



I dont want to argue....
 
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He's not building a normal 80 either, not many 80's push north of 850 hp.... A factory 5.3 makes more than enough torque to shed the 9.5", and forget the front axle all together.... Ultra 4 has shown us that naturally aspirated LS3's can chew up factory 1 tons with ease, at 2000lbs less weight...
I don't think this is planned to be a comp rig of any kind (darren can correct me if that's wrong). I'm sure the truck will get used but I think is more of a showcase of what his shops capabilities are. In any case, 850hp is clearly a power level that needs to be considered with the axles.
 
From what I understand about the rear 9.5 rear end is that it just a strong, or stronger than a Dana 60. Install chromoly’s and you’ll just be breaking axle studs.

I highly doubt that this land cruiser will be jumping any rocks.
 
From what I understand about the rear 9.5 rear end is that it just a strong, or stronger than a Dana 60. Install chromoly’s and you’ll just be breaking axle studs.

I highly doubt that this land cruiser will be jumping any rocks.

There is a variety of D60 axles out there. High pinion reverse rotation vs. low pinion rears, vs. modern 2005+ SD D60's with slightly larger R&P's. So there are probably different yield strengths.

Anyways, I've done in a couple 9.5's (open diffs) in second gear high range on pavement with a 1st gen 6BT, and it looks like the failure is always the pinion gear deflecting and spitting out teeth, which then damages the ring gear.

850hp is going to be absolutely fine for cruiser axles... IF applied to them in 5th gear!!

You can also easily brake them with a stock motor in low range and first gear though if you are bouncing in the rocks, I believe more so with a lower range diff gear (smaller pinion).

At least with the 14B there is that third bearing on the nose of the pinion to prevent deflection. But that's alot more unsprung weight than the 80's axles, that'll effect your ride if your flying down potholed gravel roads if you don't need it.

There is a 14B and SD D60 in my garage which i should be working on swapping in if I wasn't coping with a problematic turbo at the moment.
 
@scottryana we are already doing some modded hosuings for Gross vehicle Mass upgrades to engineer Land Cruisers for 9250lb GVM, and about to do for 79 series coil conversion to the rear using 105 chassis parts to look factory. Also looking at Hilux rear housing to do coil conversion as well, using Cruiser parts so #slinkylongtravel cruiser set up bolts in too.

The problem with the cruiser 9.5 is the bearing cap bolts stretch, and Gaul up the surface of the housing and cap faces when you build them strong, but apply lots of torque and bigger wheels. This is the weak point when the rest is fixed.

From what I understand about the rear 9.5 rear end is that it just a strong, or stronger than a Dana 60. Install chromoly’s and you’ll just be breaking axle studs.

I highly doubt that this land cruiser will be jumping any rocks.

Anyone who knows me knows what we use our junk for :steer::censor:

We do also have a fix for the axle studs, and will be releasing them shortly, [currently completing testing] as a kit to solve that problem for those who dont own a tension wrench ;)
 
Darren which transmission are you going to use?

Newer 8l90 would allow the use of much taller gears in the axles...

90 e is what we will use, easy, bolt up, and can be run by the ecu easily enough, bit higher stall converter, to help with on boost and cam idle.

Ideally this one will be a combo of a heap of product and ideas we have been testing in different applications over the last 18 months, the time frame blown out by our workshop burning down a while ago, but about to get ready to rumble the workshop back into action shortly.

Hopefully will culminate in turn key build options, and flat pack ship out upgrades to suspension with housing, components and GVM upgrades, and tyre/fender/housing option to have engineered larger tyres in Australia too.

This is one test rig essentially, 80 chassis, 4 link front, 16"s front set up for droop, coil overs and bypasses, has 16s droop set up rear with a frame too, but #superslinky will be with 18s and a frame and triple rate coils.
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This is the turbo diesel 80 version testing, with the pre production LHD and RHD frames bolted in for the mount system in the front, and cross engine bay bolt in brace system. Secondary bypasses will be an option over the CDC coil overs.
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Rear 16s and bolt in A frame droop, going to 18s.
[drove to there in 2wd]
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Working on this ride height, [50mm or 2"] but on 40s, this pic is 37s.

Will cut, tub, and pump for the 40s to travel up into the composite fenders and rear door back longer flare.
 
I thought it was law there that you couldn't go over something like 10% or 15% of factory sized tires?
Either way, have at er.

I think it's much like here in NZ where you can't have more than 5% deviation from factory tire circumference/diameter. In NZ you can get it certified for street use with proper modifications to correct for castor and pass a handling + brake fade test. I believe this process in Aus is called having it "engineered"(?).

@AutoCraft Aus Looking forward to this build, even if its just to showcase the companies capabilities. Really interested in what axles you come up with. For the fronts are you intending to keep a radius arm design or link it? Is superslinky a hint to a new suspension setup? Coilovers perhaps?

edit* looks like you sorta answered my question above
 
Looking forward to this build, even if its just to showcase the companies capabilities. Really interested in what axles you come up with. For the fronts are you intending to keep a radius arm design or link it? Is superslinky a hint to a new suspension setup? Coilovers perhaps?

edit* looks like you sorta answered my question above

lower spec our new forged look like factory arms for correct caster at 4" lift.

Higher end spec 4 link set up, adjustable, to set caster.

[[pic proof of concept, not production]
upload_2018-11-28_12-4-53.png
 
FWIW I'm a Corvette guy and there are a quite a few twin turbo LS engines running around. Depending on your starting point (LS3/6/7), then 650hp is a conservative baseline with 1000hp in easy reach. All I can see at that power level is a sudden LAUNCH over some rock/canyon and dire results. Is there a point when too much is too much? Hell I've only got 320-ish hp and I worry about the turbo surge.
 
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My buddy actually built this build already without the twin turbo and it’s white.

39’s with 7 inches of lift and even kept his flares.
 
FWIW I'm a Corvette guy and there are a quite a few twin turbo LS engines running around. Depending on your starting point (LS3/6/7), then 650hp is a conservative baseline with 1000hp in easy reach. All I can see at that power level is a sudden LAUNCH over some rock/canyon and dire results. Is there a point when too much is too much? Hell I've only got 320-ish hp and I worry about the turbo surge.

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