Steering wheel misaligned (1 Viewer)

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From the floor looking up at the bottom of the box find the lines of the sector shaft and pitman arm and confirm that they are aligned. I have found that when these lines are parallel to the vehicle frame the steering gear is centered.
If you have this and the the wheels are straight ahead pull the steering wheel and put it where it need to be. Then use the drag lint to fine tune.
That the beauty about the 94 no air bag and no clock spring so put the steering wheel where it need to be ;)

Don't fault the 4.5 for being oily it's now 30 years old. most cars are in the scrap yard in half the time. with some love it could look like this :cool:
View attachment 3832328
So I know it’s the shaft because the turn signals are screwed up and like to turn off the second I turn them on.
And yeah I’m not doubting the rig. It’s got 330000 miles, it’s most definitely showing its age. My ford ranger is leaking way more. Separated the trans from the engine and it pisses about half a quart of oil on the ground
 
Your engine leaks because it’s a 4.5??? I’m not following very well what this post says other than you were not able to accomplish what you tried to do.

What I suggested does not require putting the vehicle up on a lift. You need to be able to access the steering shaft from the top to remove the to retention bolts from the steering shaft that connects the steering column to the steering gear box. Then slide the splined joints upward to separate the shaft from the grelar box.
4.5 is notorious for using oil like gas. And that’s what I did. I unbolted the clamp bolt and my issue was the spring or shock what ever is on the shaft to allow you to pull it back has ceased and is now stiffer than no tomorrow
 
So I know it’s the shaft because the turn signals are screwed up and like to turn off the second I turn them on.
And yeah I’m not doubting the rig. It’s got 330000 miles, it’s most definitely showing its age. My ford ranger is leaking way more. Separated the trans from the engine and it pisses about half a quart of oil on the ground
Where just here to help.
The signals are a separate issue, moving the shaft is not going to change that!!
You really need to pull the steering wheel to fix the signals and the easy way to get the steering wheel where it should be.
 
So what !!
Well without anyone having OBD1 and I don’t feel like buying a scanner I can’t check my codes on the engine. Because it also decided to throw the ABS light and that would be nice since it’s been raining in Idaho and it’s about to freeze in a week
 
Where just here to help.
The signals are a separate issue, moving the shaft is not going to change that!!
You really need to pull the steering wheel to fix the signals and the easy way to get the steering wheel where it should be.
I’ll probably do that because the signals I can get over. But I’m not removing the entire steering shaft. If I remove it where it splines into the steering box and turn it to where it needs to be it will fix me steering wheel and my signals
 
4.5 is notorious for using oil like gas.
No it's not 🤷‍♂️ I don't have to add any oil in between 5K oil changes. Again it just need love to get back where it should be.
As I said the signals are a separate issue, getting the steering wheel aligned is not going to fix that.
You need to get a FSM
You don't need a scanner to read codes.

You seem to know it all so I'm done trying to help Good luck !!
 
4.5 is notorious for using oil like gas. And that’s what I did. I unbolted the clamp bolt and my issue was the spring or shock what ever is on the shaft to allow you to pull it back has ceased and is now stiffer than no tomorrow
That area you refer to as a shock only compresses under frontal impact. You don’t need to be able to compress it to slide the shaft upward if the clamp bolts are removed from both ends of that section of shaft.

I am on my third 80 series in 11 years. Last one had 312k miles on it when I flopped it over and killed it and I don’t understand what you say about the 1fz being notorious for drinking oil like gas. All engines will eventually leak externally. If yours consumes oil like gas then it has a problem. At 312k miles mine used less than a quart in a 5k mile oil change interval.

Sounds like you may have bigger problems than a misaligned steering wheel.
 
No it's not 🤷‍♂️ I don't have to add any oil in between 5K oil changes. Again it just need love to get back where it should be.
As I said the signals are a separate issue, getting the steering wheel aligned is not going to fix that.
You need to get a FSM
You don't need a scanner to read codes.

You seem to know it all so I'm done trying to help Good luck !!
I wasn’t trying to come off as a smart ass. Thanks for you time in trying to help me. Can’t thank you enough
 
That area you refer to as a shock only compresses under frontal impact. You don’t need to be able to compress it to slide the shaft upward if the clamp bolts are removed from both ends of that section of shaft.

I am on my third 80 series in 11 years. Last one had 312k miles on it when I flopped it over and killed it and I don’t understand what you say about the 1fz being notorious for drinking oil like gas. All engines will eventually leak externally. If yours consumes oil like gas then it has a problem. At 312k miles mine used less than a quart in a 5k mile oil change interval.

Sounds like you may have bigger problems than a misaligned steering wheel.
Then I heard wrong. Every one I’ve talked to has complained about the oil leaks on them.
And she’s got problem's, wasn’t expecting a 3500$ rig. I’ll probably just pull the steering wheel because as you said it doesn’t have an air bags and it will work as a fix until I’m able to fix the other issues
 
Well thought I’d follow up on this post. I went the easy route and pulled the steering wheel. Took a little convincing to try and get her off but she came out after about 10 minutes of wiggling and a few bad words. Re aligned the wheel put her back on and now just need to do some fine tuning. And after getting the wheel put to the right spot my horn works now. Bit pathetic but better than nothing

Cant thank you guys enough for all the information and tips you gave me.
 
From the floor looking up at the bottom of the box find the lines of the sector shaft and pitman arm and confirm that they are aligned. I have found that when these lines are parallel to the vehicle frame the steering gear is centered.
If you have this and the the wheels are straight ahead pull the steering wheel and put it where it need to be. Then use the drag lint to fine tune.
That the beauty about the 94 no air bag and no clock spring so put the steering wheel where it need to be ;)

Don't fault the 4.5 for being oily it's now 30 years old. most cars are in the scrap yard in half the time. with some love it could look like this :cool:
View attachment 3832328
**Just Get the Nipple Protector since you already have the Catch Can.
Sheesh that thing is Clean!
Mine has New Radiator too - as do most as they are 25 years Old.....Going or Already Gone.
 
LS 400 horns are plug and play and 100% improvement. got then cheep on Ebay
1738867962415.png
 
Well thought I’d follow up on this post. I went the easy route and pulled the steering wheel. Took a little convincing to try and get her off but she came out after about 10 minutes of wiggling and a few bad words. Re aligned the wheel put her back on and now just need to do some fine tuning. And after getting the wheel put to the right spot my horn works now. Bit pathetic but better than nothing

Cant thank you guys enough for all the information and tips you gave me.
 
I avoid Amazon whenever possible!!:meh: And China junk but that just me 😎

Are those plug and play as in no wiring modification needed?

I can’t see them being as good as LS 400 horns
I’ve honestly been pretty impressed with Amazon items. Gonna try one of their remote start kits. Unless you got a better suggestion for one
 

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