Steering is all over the place..Need opinions

[FJ40 Newbie]

After driving this beast for a while, I realized it is hard to keep in a lane because it wants to dart off especially when shifting.

It has a SOA lift and no power steering. It is a 72' FJ with drum brakes.

I am taking it in to the shop tomorrow to hopefully get the situation fixed. I am planning on doing saginaw power steering. I run 33x12.50x15 on it.

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and it was fixed by power steering. I am also contimplating on having them rebuild the front knuckles and add disc brakes to the front. I need some reassurance that this thing will drive atraight after dropping some big money in it.

Is there anything else that could cause this problem? It has a built motor in it, but I doubt the torque would make this thing swist and dart like it does. It is at the point that I will not put my kids in it.

Suggestions please.

 

[Poser]

What is your caster angle?

A power steering conversion will not compensate for an incorrect caster angle.

 

[FJ40 Newbie]

I don't know or even know how to check it?

What is your caster angle?

 

[nspctr1]

I'd start with Tie Rod Ends, wheel bearings and caster angle on a soa. The steering box can have play in it also. If you have access to a 79 to 85 toyota 4x4 truck you can use the front axle parts for a disc conversion. There is a excellent writeup on here I believe from camcruiser.....

GL

 

[FJsnoozer]

Poor alignment (caster/camber etc), loose tie rid ends, worn out steering box and column bushing.

If all these are correct, you wont have problems unless there are some other major issues. Make sure the wheels do not wobble by hand while up In the air.

 

[FJ40 Newbie]

Poor alignment (caster/camber etc), loose tie rid ends, worn out steering box and column bushing

Well it looks like going ahead and doing the disk brke conversion with the power steering conversion will get all of the above. It will just cost a small fortune since I can't fabricate anything. Looks like I will leave this one to the pro's.

 

[inkpot]

Well it looks like going ahead and doing the disk brke conversion with the power steering conversion will get all of the above. It will just cost a small fortune since I can't fabricate anything. Looks like I will leave this one to the pro's.

Howdy! Adding power steering and doing a disc brake setup will not fix a castor problem, and that is a common problem with SOA setups. Take it into an alignment shop and have them give you the readouts. The only thing they will usually adjust is the toe in. John

 

[FJsnoozer]

True, neither of those will fix your problem at all. Especially if you don't address the steering column, or you use a used column with a bad rag joint.

Please go have a 4 wheel alignment before anything. Your SOA could have you at whacky angles depending on how well it was done and initially aligned. Then start upgrading. During alignment, they should tell you the condition of your tie rods, or you can check with a friend at the wheel.

 

[Bigslug]

I had the same issues with basically stock suspension and 31x10.5's New tie rod ends, rebuilt center arm assembly, and drag-link assembly made it drive like a completely different vehicle. I'm no longer terrified coming home from Big Bear.

 

[bikersmurf]

When I bought mine, I could barely keep it on the road... Wheels should be toed in, they were toed out. Every bump sent it heading it in a different direction.

Very, very, scary!

 

[Roboosfj40s]

When I got mine it had 33 x 14.5 x 15 Super swampers and was all over the road with Saginaw P.S. 4 degree Caster shims and 33 x 12.5 x 15's along with a drag link adjustment and alignment fixed everything. TE's were in good shape. Now I can drive as fast as I need and zero bump steering. Steers with one finger where as before it was still tough with P.S. because everything was so wacked out.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Check your leaf spring bushings and how the shackles are tightened too.

 

[UZJ40]

x2 on the tie rod ends. Mine were sloppy on the way home after purchasing my car...

 

[FJ40 Newbie]

Does the 72 steering column have a rag joint?

Just dropped it off at NTB to get it aligned. We will see what they come up with, the tech saw it and gave me a look like it eas going to be over his head. So, we will see.

 

[Snowdogyyz]

Mine is a 4" SUA lift, but I had the same issues. I did the following:
- new tie rods
- rebuilt center arm
- 4 degree caster shims (get steel ones, not aluminum)
- alignment

In the end, my steering is much, much better. I believe the caster shims made a huge difference in the darting, especially on back roads.

 

[DSRTRDR]

Does the 72 steering column have a rag joint?

no, it is one-piece, a PITA to take out

the good news is there isn't a whole lot to adjust in the column itself - if, after you check all of what first suggested an unacceptable amount of play remains, then it might be worth to rebuild the steering box and adjust the shims inside

but first look at caster angle, spring bushings, tie rod ends, and center arm

 

[FJ40 Newbie]

When it went in, camber-left front was 0.0 camber, rt front -0.5,

Left rear camber 0.0, rt rear -0.5

Total toe 0.00

Steer ahead -0.03

Coming out: camber lft front 0.0 rt front -0.5 lft rear 0.0, rt rear -0.5

Toe 0.16, steer ahead -.23

Seems like it drives the same as before. Should it be at 0.0 like it was when it went in?

 

[Shark56]

Something that can also make it dart to the side is a rear "lunch box" type lockere. Esp. if the rear tire pressures are off from side to side. Both my Aussies will do it on hard shifting. Really noticible if tire presuure is off by a couple pounds on one side.

 

[pb4ugo]

They didn't reference a caster angle?

 

[FJ40 Newbie]

Caster angle was -5.1 lft front and -4.7 rt front going in and coming out.