Steel Wheel Tech (2 Viewers)

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And here is why I’m eventually moving up to 16’s or 17’s. The other day 5 of us ran a trail in Panamint Springs. Was not an event, just the 5 of us, but when they do have an event, this trail requirement are one locker & 35 in tires. I am running 33’s & when aired down to the mid teens I really have to watch my ground clearance.

Here are some before & after pics of my 15 in wheels after this trail. 33x15 BFG Muds are actually barely 32 inches. Once I get some 16 or 17 in wheels I can get some BFG Muds with a true 34 in size. With the lift I now have I don’t believe I can run 35’s.

Here are a couple of pics of my wheels after the beating they took and then after I hammered them back into usable shape. After the hammer repair, the wheel is not pretty…but the inside bead is useable. For now I grabbed a spare wheel I had in the garage.

After the trail.
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After a few hammer blows. The inside bead is good.
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Spare wheel from the garage.
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Can a guy get by without sliders on that trail? Planning a trip to DV in a couple of weeks. I’ll have the whole family in tow, so I’m not sure how radical my wife will let me get. I’m running stock suspension height and 33” on my hdj81.
 
Looks good, my favorite color for wheels :clap:
 
Can a guy get by without sliders on that trail? Planning a trip to DV in a couple of weeks. I’ll have the whole family in tow, so I’m not sure how radical my wife will let me get. I’m running stock suspension height and 33” on my hdj81.
@Sonofaskipper in my post I did not actually identify which trail we did in Panamint, every trail I’ve been on in the Panamint area is certainly doable w/o sliders…EXCEPT maybe the one that gave me fits…which was Cummings Cut Off. Cummings joins up with Defense Mine trail. Defense is difficult but easily made w/o sliders. You can do Defense Mine w/o doing Cummings but if you do Cummings Cut Off it exits onto Defense Mine.

And if you decide to do Cummings you likely will be fine…I just took some bad lines. But taking bad lines is easy to do on Cummings and if you make mistakes you could be wishing for sliders. I would not suggest trying Cummings w/o a winch AND not alone. Defense Mine trail…yes, but you are fighting bad odds on Cummings Cut Off.

Good luck and take pictures.👍🎯👍
 
I have been using FJ Cruiser 17" x 7.5" on my own and customer trucks for a while. Mostly with BFG 34 x 10.5 x 17 . They work great on 80 axles, not sure on 60 and 40s.

This is an FJC 17" next to a 15" OEM wheel. If you look close there is a Chevy hub cap clip sitting on the 15" rim. I re configure those and use 6 on the FJC wheel.

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6 clips welded on and OEM Toyota caps going with it.

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60 body on 80 roller with FJC steelies. Can't get more Toyota than that :)
Oh, 6.0L with Tremec 4050 5 speed manual, can't all be OEM
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I had some various grays left over from painting my 40 wheels. I got a couple more names I recognized from reading here and held them against my sun baked 8b4. I used dark machine grey on my rustic green 40 and it looked good. I went with dark gray for this truck.

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Scuffed the wheels with maroon scotchbrite and soapy water. Rinsed and hit them with compressed air and set aside to finish air drying.

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Gave them a good spray with prep spray and more compressed air before primer and first coat of color.

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For future reference, this paint is dry to handle in an hour and recoat time is within 1 hr or after 48 hrs at 70* and 50% RH. It's been a cool and rainy here, so this paint is still soft after 3 days of drying. I've scuffed one stepping over it on accident already. I called Rustoleum this morning and they confirmed that their coatings really take 7-10 days to fully harden. I also confirmed I should NOT sand/scuff this initial coat of color before my final coat. Just hit it with compressed air to knock off any dust and spray away. Last time I rattle bombed wheels was a few summers ago and they cured fast and were very durable.
 
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Finished product. TBH I'm not totally satisfied with how this particular paint has cured. I let them sit in my garage 6 days before getting them mounted at discount and they still got a couple scratches. I feel like the rustoleum professional spray I used a couple years ago was more durable. We will see how they hold up long term.
 
So I'm wanting to run the Tundra/Tacoma style wheels on my 60. I picked up one from the Toyota dealer to test and its a no go without spacers which I don't want. Seems like everyone here running that wheel is using spacers. Is there one that doesn't require a spacer? Maybe the FJC 17"? TIA
 
So I'm wanting to run the Tundra/Tacoma style wheels on my 60. I picked up one from the Toyota dealer to test and its a no go without spacers which I don't want. Seems like everyone here running that wheel is using spacers. Is there one that doesn't require a spacer? Maybe the FJC 17"? TIA

The only ones I can guarantee don’t need spacers are City Racer, the converted Trailer wheels and the Summit Smooth Vintique
 
I have been running 'multi-piece wheels for 50 years ('29 model AA 1 1/2 ton when I was 19 years old). The only ones I will not use are the Firestone RH5. That's what tire shops call a Widow maker. There are some in between types and there are the 38-47 ford big truck style with no split in the ring. I have changed probably 75 tires on these early ford one ton 17" wheels without incedent. But....... BUT I have never seen a better design of a multi-piece wheel in my life as the 16" Toyota wheel. I know of no other 'split rim' in existance with this important safety feature. So, If you were to cut a section out of the lock ring it has an 'L' shaped section. There are a groove and an angle etc, but with the tire laying flat, the now vertical leg of the L is deep into the bead of the tire. To remove the ring the tire's bead must be pushed downward almost 2". When I bought my first toyota split rims 30 years ago from a wrecking yard in British Columbia I was shocked to discover this ingenious safety featurs. Yes, I'm a tire junkie, and multi- piece wheels are easy to change in the bush. That's why to the best of my knowledge, they are still used today. I still have problems with the modern 'thin skinned inner tubes' as most radials today have ribs inside the carcase the abrades the tube. (2 flats from this in 30 years). My 79 fj55 with those Canadian wheels. People gave away stock steelies in those days so I chiseled off the hubcap clips from a set of 15s and drilled and tapped the splits for a 10-24 machine screw. Thinking it was mid 1990's.

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This is an awesome thread. I've ordered FJ Company wheels, they should be delivered tomorrow, for my 1989 Fj62. I really want a full-size spare as well. I found this wheel at Summit Racing :
It looks as though all the specs are correct for a 16" steel wheel spare rim. 16x7, 6 lug, 5.5 spacing, 4.28 pilot bore, and 4" backspacing. This should work for a spare rim correct? Thanks for the help
 
Hey Grogzilla, when you DIY the smoke grey on the rims in the past, did you sand/scuff them up first, or did you just spray and play?

Merry Xmas to you and Red!
 
I bought some refurbished Tundra/Sequoia steel wheels for my snow tires on my 1996 FZJ80. I love the way they look and they're perfect for the pizza cutter snow tires.

Toyota SEQUOIA (2001-2004) 16x7 Steel Black 16 Hole [69392]
  • Hollander: 69392
  • Make: Toyota
  • Model: SEQUOIA
  • Year: 2001-2004
  • Finish: Black
  • Material: Steel
  • Size: 16x7
  • Placement: Front or Rear
  • Style: 16 Hole
  • Bolt Pattern: 6-5.5"
  • Offset: 15mm
  • OEM: 426010C010
Tires:
Toyo Open Country WLT1
Size: LT235/85R-16

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Looks good! I have those same wheels (I think), from a Tacoma, 16x7.
 
They are also available in 17", came on the FJ Cruiser
 

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