Starting My "New" 2L-T (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 27, 2023
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Location
NE Tennessee
Just got a 'new' (for me to play with) 1989 LJ73 from Spain imported through a dealer in Orlando. 118k miles, no rust, all original stuff.

Engine looks pretty clean except for a few wet spots left rear near oil filter and under turbo. I sprayed degreaser to clean and dry off areas to see where it gets wet again.

Just changed oil (Rotella T4) and used a Wix 51515 filter. All other fluids get changed next week at local auto shop since I have no maintenance history so starting off with all fresh.

Starting the 2L-T - In order to get the 2L-T started, I have to turn the 'choke' knob 1.5 turns clockwise, then turn IGN on - glow light out after 2 sec then I wait 4 more seconds then IGN off and repeat. Then I can turn over engine about 10 times and it fires off with lots of blue smoke that goes away after 10 seconds and idle comes up to 1400 and I can then slowly turn choke counter-clockwise back down to 1000 or even 500 depending on outside temp. Is this 'normal' for this engine or is my glow system inop?

If I need to troubleshoot the glow system, are there any tutorials on procedures?

My Kubota 3-cyl starts instantly in any weather with no smoke (2005 model).

Someone in the 70 Tech group where I originally posted recommended I post here - said his 2L-T starts instantly so looks like I have an issue.
 
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Definitely sounds like your glow system is not working correctly, the light should be on for longer than 2 seconds..

This recent thread is well worth a read:


@4Ruster has done an excellent diagram that may assist with diagnostics.
 
I bought this so I wouldn't have to deal with computer chips failing, so will look for instructions to install a momentary push button Wilson Switch.
 
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Testing the glow plug system in easy. Get a multimeter on the rail and get a friend to turn the key on. Both relays should click on. You should get around 12 volts on the first stage, then the 1st relay will click off and you then will get around 6 volts, that should stay on for at least 20 seconds id say.

Another thing to consider is testing the compression on each cylinder.
 
type 'wilson switch ih8mud' into google, youll find it
they work awesome
 
I bought this so I wouldn't have to deal with computer chips failing, so will look for instructions to install a momentary push button Wilson Switch.

Update: Search didn't turn up much for installing a WIlson Switch. Any advice appreciated.
If you use a Wilson switch it will send 12V to the glowplugs for an extended period. If the plugs were designed for 6V after a 12V momentary they could fail prematuraly with 12V. I think I went with 11V plugs when I went to a Wilson(style) switch. That was on a 1HD-T.
 
Not sure what your temps are but it should start fairly easily in fall temps. What are your temps outside right now?


Does it start easy when Engine is warm?
 
I think it will be news to Maldivians that they are Spanish...
 
You're a racist

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I personally think you should test the superglow relays first. It's very easy like I already said. might be as simple as replacing one of the relays.
 
Glow Plug Test: IGN On - I hear a double click - 9v on rail for 1 sec then another click and 4.6v for 20 seconds. (9v could just be lag on digital meter).

Isn't the main relay controlled by the SuperGlow controller? So it may be working but being told to cut off right away by controller?
 
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Glow Plug Test: IGN On - I hear a double click - 9v on rail for 1 sec then another click and 4.6v for 20 seconds. (9v could just be lag on digital meter).

Isn't the main relay controlled by the SuperGlow controller? So it may be working but being told to cut off right away by controller?
That sounds like a your controller is working perfectly fine. I think you should pull the glow plugs and make sure that all work. You might have a dead glow plug.

The main relay will only come on between 1 and 11 seconds ish. All it does is heat the plugs up to 900⁰, once they are at full temperature, the current sensor sees the resistance change and cuts the main relay off, now the plugs are getting half voltage and will stay at that temperature without burning out.

If you have a dead plug, the current sensor will think the plugs are already up to temp and not glow at full voltage for long enough.
 
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There's not really a set resistance to test. The service manual just says to test for continuity. I also hook up a booster pack to the plug and see if/how long it takes to get red hot.
 
Continuity is good on all 4. Main still kicks off after 1 sec and then 4.6v on the bus.
 

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