You may be able to retrofit a newer 1990+ style primer housing. The part number is 23301-54140, visually it looks very similar and shouldn’t be too difficult to make work.
Starting My "New" 2L-T (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter skykingisepic
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- #42
I can only find 23301-54620 (no -54140 available anywhere). Not sure if it's 3/4x16 for spin on or what the diameter of the gasket surface is.
Lots of 1x16 filter heads with primer for <$50 on eBay but I'd have to find a filter for that and may end up without the water sensor.
Because my pet cock is leaking a bit, need to find a new o-ring for it. Don't want to have to replace sensor if it works.
Lots of 1x16 filter heads with primer for <$50 on eBay but I'd have to find a filter for that and may end up without the water sensor.
Because my pet cock is leaking a bit, need to find a new o-ring for it. Don't want to have to replace sensor if it works.
My apologies, I accidentally posted the wrong part number. 23301-54560 is the one I meant.
- Thread starter
- #44
No worries, thanks. Looks like the same one I have. Pricey from UAE warehouse.
If you want a cheap filter bracket, try this bargain genuine part: https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=23301-58100
The snag is that the hose fittings are 10 mm (and I imagine they are 8 mm on the LJ), but you can pull them annd switch them over from your old filter head.
- Thread starter
- #47
Update: bypassed the filter assembly by connecting inlet and outlet hoses together with coupler.
Started and ran until the air worked it's way out with smooth idle at 600rpm.
Let it sit overnight then tried starting this morning.
Started right up after turning over a few times and blew a little puff of smoke then immediate smooth idle at 600.
So it's definitely the filter/primer assembly.
Will order one from Partsouq $105 shipped. Will get a new drain pet cock o-ring too.
Thanks everyone for guidance and ideas. Next on my list is replacing the coil springs and shocks (bought OMEs) then do a knuckle rebuild (bought a kit with wheel bearings too). I also have a bit of fiberglass repair work to do where the top blew off and hit the road, but opportunity to have it painted a nice medium silver.
Started and ran until the air worked it's way out with smooth idle at 600rpm.
Let it sit overnight then tried starting this morning.
Started right up after turning over a few times and blew a little puff of smoke then immediate smooth idle at 600.
So it's definitely the filter/primer assembly.
Will order one from Partsouq $105 shipped. Will get a new drain pet cock o-ring too.
Thanks everyone for guidance and ideas. Next on my list is replacing the coil springs and shocks (bought OMEs) then do a knuckle rebuild (bought a kit with wheel bearings too). I also have a bit of fiberglass repair work to do where the top blew off and hit the road, but opportunity to have it painted a nice medium silver.
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Hey I've been out of the loop for a few weeks. Good to be back.
I had the same issue with my primer housing leaking. I ended up just buying a generic cheap one off ebay
I was only able to line up one of the mounting holes but if you need a quick cheap fix they're all pretty universal.
I had the same issue with my primer housing leaking. I ended up just buying a generic cheap one off ebay
I was only able to line up one of the mounting holes but if you need a quick cheap fix they're all pretty universal.
- Thread starter
- #50
That is a good price - ended up buying OEM from Partsouq along with a couple of other parts so shipping wasn't so bad. Overhead light assembly, rear side interior vent covers, rear bumper step (aluminum) all discontinued and no stock from Partsouq and Megazip. I need to replace these so will keep looking.
I have a 93 LJ77, also from Spain, also with similar mileage (119k miles). Truck is completely stock. When i got it stateside it ran great until i let the tank get almost empty and apparently sucked up some of the nasty brown corrosion from the tank and completely clogged the filter. The tank was dropped to discover all sorts of nastiness. I was told it likely sat while still in Spain, water separated from fuel, and corrosion ensued. Cleaning and resealing the tank with shipping (no one local) was about the same price as a new oem tank from cruiserparts, so I went with the new oem tank, a new primer pump assembly (also oem) and filter. Now it runs like a champ.....BUT now I am dealing with cold start issues as of the past two weeks.
Basically if it's in the 30's it's a total ordeal to get it started. It gets fuel as you can smell it coming out of exhaust, but does not like to fire in colder temps. I pushed it into my garage, which is heated at 70 degrees, let it sit overnight, and the next morning it fired right up after the relay popped. Duplicated this twice.....same problem. If it's outside in the cold it's very grumpy. If it's in the garage-fires right up.
The glow plugs were replaced over a year ago but maybe one fouled? Any thoughts before I take her back to the tech?
Apologies for the piggyback on the thread, but it seemed to be veering towards my problem until you guys figured out the fuel issue. any insight is greatly appreciated!
Basically if it's in the 30's it's a total ordeal to get it started. It gets fuel as you can smell it coming out of exhaust, but does not like to fire in colder temps. I pushed it into my garage, which is heated at 70 degrees, let it sit overnight, and the next morning it fired right up after the relay popped. Duplicated this twice.....same problem. If it's outside in the cold it's very grumpy. If it's in the garage-fires right up.
The glow plugs were replaced over a year ago but maybe one fouled? Any thoughts before I take her back to the tech?
Apologies for the piggyback on the thread, but it seemed to be veering towards my problem until you guys figured out the fuel issue. any insight is greatly appreciated!
- Thread starter
- #52
With the fuel filter bypassed (new filter/primer assy from Partsouq not here yet) mine starts easier but still blows smoke and idles rough for 10 sec then clears up and idles smooth as silk.
sky- the primer is probably still leaking
burg- sounds like glows, a wilson switch is the ultimate in starting a diesel as you decide how long to glow it and it eliminates all the electrical gremlins, purists might not like it as you are modifying the original function of the truck, but it is superior
burg- sounds like glows, a wilson switch is the ultimate in starting a diesel as you decide how long to glow it and it eliminates all the electrical gremlins, purists might not like it as you are modifying the original function of the truck, but it is superior
thanks for the info. new glow plugs ordered and will be here by this weekend. hopefully that' sit. thoughts on replacing glow plug relay while i'm at it? appears to be original to the truck. from what i've read bad relay symptoms can mimic bad glow plugs, but i'm not certain.
- Thread starter
- #55
Relays are simple on-off switches. You can hear the main relay for glows kick off a second or two after the light goes out, all run by the SuperGlow controller which could be flaky.
I'm going to search for instructions to wire up a Wilson anyway. Would be nice if it's as simple as wiring a push-button switch to the main glow relay.
I'm going to search for instructions to wire up a Wilson anyway. Would be nice if it's as simple as wiring a push-button switch to the main glow relay.
- Thread starter
- #56
New filter/primer assembly installed. When I primed after installation it never got firm and I could hear air bubbles in the fuel tank.
Now, if it sits for a few days it takes 5 seconds to crank then runs really rough with lots of smoke for 15 seconds then smoke clears and it idles smooth as silk. Must keep throttle open a bit for rough fast idle, won't idle without some.
Owners and Repair Manual don't go into detail about how fuel delivery system works so I'm not sure what I'm looking for at this point.
Now, if it sits for a few days it takes 5 seconds to crank then runs really rough with lots of smoke for 15 seconds then smoke clears and it idles smooth as silk. Must keep throttle open a bit for rough fast idle, won't idle without some.
Owners and Repair Manual don't go into detail about how fuel delivery system works so I'm not sure what I'm looking for at this point.
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From the primer back to the tank is just a combination of rubber hoses and hard steel lines. It's common for the steel lines, especially those on top of the fuel tank, to corrode. Once they corrode through, that would get you a line full of air from the tank to the filter.
- Thread starter
- #58
What is amazing about this Cruiser is that there isn't a spot of rust anywhere. All steel lines and rubber hoses look new - rubber is soft and not cracked. I don't think this was ever driven in mud or water and it must have lived somewhere away from the coast and salty air.
So I have to assume that if there is an air leak it's somewhere other than the lines near the tank.
So I have to assume that if there is an air leak it's somewhere other than the lines near the tank.
- Thread starter
- #59
I checked both fuel lines back to the tank. All hoses are soft and look like new. All steel lines look freshly painted - like I said, this Cruiser is in exceptional shape as far as body rust and corrosion (none). Looks like one line from tank direct to filter/primer and second line from injector pump back to tank (smaller diameter).
No leaks at banjo fittings.
I tried priming and today it took one push to firm up. No sound of air bubbles back at tank.
I don't see any fuel cut-off solenoid or any fuel pre-heat so a pretty simple fuel delivery system.
As I check off possibilities for the hard smoky start with glow plugs and fuel OK that leaves compression which will be the hardest to fix if that's it.
No leaks at banjo fittings.
I tried priming and today it took one push to firm up. No sound of air bubbles back at tank.
I don't see any fuel cut-off solenoid or any fuel pre-heat so a pretty simple fuel delivery system.
As I check off possibilities for the hard smoky start with glow plugs and fuel OK that leaves compression which will be the hardest to fix if that's it.
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I just rebuilt my 3L and it started up even with non-working glow plugs and no fuel in any of the lines and a dry filter. Just took 20 seconds of cranking over.
How cold is your cold start. It's been about 20 degrees F here in Idaho and even with preheat system working good and fuel pressure you may experience rough starts. There's a couple hundred pounds of freezing cold cast iron to heat up.
Angry cold starts is my reason for buying a circulating heater earlier this year, which I have yet to install.
Right now there's two Hiluxes in my front yard, one in back, all the 3Ls can and will start but the problem you are describing with a few puffs of smoke and some initial grumpy diesel vibrations is just typical. Get a block or circulating heater, run your glow plugs twice on cold days, and don't worry about it
How cold is your cold start. It's been about 20 degrees F here in Idaho and even with preheat system working good and fuel pressure you may experience rough starts. There's a couple hundred pounds of freezing cold cast iron to heat up.
Angry cold starts is my reason for buying a circulating heater earlier this year, which I have yet to install.
Right now there's two Hiluxes in my front yard, one in back, all the 3Ls can and will start but the problem you are describing with a few puffs of smoke and some initial grumpy diesel vibrations is just typical. Get a block or circulating heater, run your glow plugs twice on cold days, and don't worry about it
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