Just got a LN65 2L Turbo'ed Diesel (1 Viewer)

[PebbleCruiser]

Hope everyone is doing well, as the title says I just got a 1986 LN65 for a good price of ~10k USD, previous seller claimed he rebuilt the engine and then put a tiny Garett vw transporter turbo to it. I'm completely new to Hilux's and have no experience with this chassis, closest thing I have is the LC100 v8, but seeing how everything is mechanical I'm sure I can perform any fixes in house. I would greatly appreciate any help from this forum on what to look out for and any suggestions for fixes on chronical issues with this drivetrain/body. Also I'm sturggling to find a pdf of FSM, if someone could help me with that it would be much appreciated.

I read a lot that the 2L is famous for cracks on the head, so far so good, the ideal boost pressure is 6-9 psi but when I flat out I can see max 15 psi which might be a concern, I will adjust the blowoff valve accordingly and drop pressures for the sake of reliability. If I drop a valve I will do a cost analysis and consider an engine swap, BD30 is cheap and easy to work on but will it fit? Also I've seen a guy put a PD130 1.9tdi which seems interesting but I will wait till time comes.

To-do list in no specific priority;

1. Adding an intercooler, also I might fabricate my own high flowing manifolds. First I need a Pyro to see my EGT and I will decide after that.
2. I need an oil dipstick, I suppose the turbo oil lines are currently going through where the dipstick would have been.
3. Fix the nightmare wiring job, there is a short I believe where smoke comes out of the dash when I turn on the aftermarket exterior lights. Also add a new waterproof fusebox
4. Regular maintenance, new timing belt, oil change, radiator flush as the water in there is brown but still watery, no signs of oil mixture
5. Fix the handbrake and brakes, owner said he replaced the old system with a new LN106 style brake system with discs all around, currently when I brake the rear wants to make a u-turn
6. I will build a fiberglass canopy as there are none for sale where I live, I don't think I will ever utilize the bed tbh, might go for a half canopy that angles towards the tailgate, a proper dakar rally look
7. Although I'm happy with the straight up steering rack, it is impossible to turn the wheel when the car is on a decline standing still, I will see my options for a hydraulic system but its not a priority as I have the muscle power
8. 4WD Hi-Low works but its too resistive, I'm aware the 2L is gutless but it feels like I'm pulling a trailer when I'm on 4wd so I will open both diff covers and do an inspection
9. Change the old rusty tilted seats to a nice front bench seating, remove the rear bench and make a functional storage area in the back, max occupation will be 3
10. Finally I plan on an undercoat even though it survived the screwdriver test, possibly changing the color to a red or green, I won't say I hate the white but I feel like I'm in Baghdad

I apologise for the word pasta, English is clearly not my 1st

 

[duncanrm]

I have some 2L literature including the engine FSM .. scroll down on my Diesel site to the L/2L/3L section .. link below.

Toyota Diesel Documentation

2H Specific Reference Information

sites.google.com

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Boost isn't the enemy, excessive fuel leading to excessive heat is. Do you have an accurate coolant temp gauge and a pre-turbo EGT gauge in addition to the boost gauge?

 

[PebbleCruiser]

Boost isn't the enemy, excessive fuel leading to excessive heat is. Do you have an accurate coolant temp gauge and a pre-turbo EGT gauge in addition to the boost gauge?

Thanks Aussie very well aware of that statement, I only have a water temp gauge which doesn't tell me much. I'm ordering a Pyrometer so I can plug in and measure Pre-turbo EGT. I took a 600km roadtrip when I bought the car, en route I climbed a big elevation change going 90kmh, the water temp went near 80C so I pulled over waited an hour or so and continue my route which was a slight downhill. I gave maybe quarter throttle going down and was below turbo threshold, the water temp started going back up and I think this is becuase at low throttle low-mid rpm low load situation there isn't enough air to burn all the fuel dumped, maybe I'm wrong but also I know nothing about mechanical injection pumps. At full throttle engine pulls well so I'm not complaining just wondering, also my idle is harsh so maybe its related to that.

 

[PebbleCruiser]

Today the rear right bearings and oil seals went liquid, after I realized the cloud of smoke behind me I pulled over and towed it to my workshop for an inspection. Looks like most of it is toasted, ordered new bearings and seals for both sides, got 80W90 GL4 spec oil for the diffs.

While its sitting in the shop, I took the opportunity to start on engine maintenance, the stupid single crankshaft pulley bolt wouldnt come out (hope it wasnt counter threat) so I ended up drill punch a small hole in the plastic timing cover to extract the oil pump lowest bolt out and got the cover out.

Currently replacing timing belt and idler pulley, also getting the turbo serviced in the meantime as there is excessive soot build up mixed with oil. I'm not keen on the engine rebuild as I can't find a seal/gasket kit so I'm just going to put it back together and wait till the engine/head blows up for the full overhaul. Also would anyone recommend a thicker head gasket for turbo applications? Would a factory 2lte head gasket work? I have no clue what the gasket is currently inside.

Inverted Shock kit from budscustoms AU also I found out that running inverted shocks on rear is a thing so that's the direction I'm heading, while at it I will replace my front shocks too as they are bent beyond repair.

Full Ironman Lift Kit costs a good 3k USD, I'm considering this as opposed to the OME kit which costs near 5k USD where I live. I'm wondering if I can take the rear shocks and mount them inverted.