Check the resistance of the water temperature sensor on the side of the block above the starter. Should be the green and the green and black wire coming off the timer box.
Starting My "New" 2L-T (1 Viewer)
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Check the resistance of the water temperature sensor on the side of the block above the starter. Should be the green and the green and black wire coming off the timer box.
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- #22
Plugs, resistor, current sensor all good continuity. Having trouble reaching the temp sensor above starter and getting plug off to test. Tested at SuperGlow plug pins 10 and 7 resistance shows .71 which would be like 55C which is 130F so the temp sensor may be correct as I had it running for a little bit. Going to unplug #7 and see what that changes.
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Yes you can test at the plug. Yes it's either behind the glovebox or in the passenger kick panel.
If you unplug the sensor most likely you just won't get any glow.
At ambient temperature you should see around least 3k ohms depending on your location.
Wait. Are you just basing the time off the dash light? The main relays stays on for way longer than the light does. Count how long it takes for the audible click to happen instead of the light.
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- #26
Kind of a double click when IGN On then the second click (Main Relay Off) anywhere from instantly to 2 seconds. Third click about 20 seconds later.
As per FJBen's suggestion, have you checked whether the engine has the same symptoms when warm/hot? If yes, then the glow system is not going to be the issue - it will most likely be a fuel delivery issue, or compression.
I 2nd doing a compression test
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- #29
Things to do today:
Just going through process of elimination to determine what's changed from first few good starts to what it does now.
Some results:
Water temp sensor pins 7 & 10 shows 2.3k ohms with engine at ambient 20C so very close to chart above.
No glow relays with temp sensor detached (pin 7).
Getting 9v on plug bus rail for 2 seconds then main relay off and 4.6v for 20 seconds with engine at 20C.
- Check resistance on controller plug 7 & 10 with engine at ambient - look for 3k ohms
- Check voltage on plug bus rail with controller #7 wire detached as main relay comes on and goes off
- Run engine up to temp, let sit 10 minutes, then check for hard start and smoke
Just going through process of elimination to determine what's changed from first few good starts to what it does now.
Some results:
Water temp sensor pins 7 & 10 shows 2.3k ohms with engine at ambient 20C so very close to chart above.
No glow relays with temp sensor detached (pin 7).
Getting 9v on plug bus rail for 2 seconds then main relay off and 4.6v for 20 seconds with engine at 20C.
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- Thread starter
- #30
I have to say that all of the hoses on this Cruiser are in amazing condition - soft rubber, not hard, no cracks. Only the front end bushings are a bit dried out and cracked and on my list to replace someday.
Checking the fuel lines, I see that someone has added a quick disconnect right before the fuel filter without any clamps. No leaks here. Going to add clamps to be safe. Now looking at fuel for starting issues.
Checking the fuel lines, I see that someone has added a quick disconnect right before the fuel filter without any clamps. No leaks here. Going to add clamps to be safe. Now looking at fuel for starting issues.
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- #31
Update: I removed the incoming fuel line at the filter/primer and there was no fuel in the line right at the end so it must be back-draining a bit. I replaced it then removed the outgoing line from the filter/primer and pumped several times - no fuel, no resistance on primer. I'm guessing I have a bad primer? Putting my finger over the outlet when I press the plunger there is a tiny bit of pressure and bubble then when I release the plunger there is a tiny bit of vacuum.
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Very possible it is a bad primer, that is a common failure on these ~30 year old Cruisers. A good way to check for air intrusion into the fuel system is to get a section of clear hose to replace the line between the filter housing and injection pump. If you can see bubbles in the hose while it is running then there is a leak.
I would highly recommend replacing the fuel filter if you haven’t already.
I would highly recommend replacing the fuel filter if you haven’t already.
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- #33
First, thanks to everyone for all the ideas and assistance.
Issue wasn't glow plug related but now I know all about the glow system components and how things work. Good learning experience.
I ended up removing the fuel filter/primer, taking the fuel filter and sending unit off and dumping out some nasty brown looking junk. Cleaned out the filter as best I could (don't have a spare yet) then cleaned up the water sensor to make sure the float was free and smooth and checked the pet cock o-ring. I worked the primer until it 'felt different' after some more brown crap came out. Re-assembled everything, attached incoming fuel line, and started pumping the primer. It now feels a lot firmer and I could hear fuel filling the filter and kept going until I had fuel coming out of the output line. Re-attached hose to FIP and a couple more primer pumps had it firm as it should be (but wasn't). First start was quick with a bit of smoke and roughness as air was bled out of system. Shut down for a few minutes then tried another start and it was quick and smokeless.
Issue wasn't glow plug related but now I know all about the glow system components and how things work. Good learning experience.
I ended up removing the fuel filter/primer, taking the fuel filter and sending unit off and dumping out some nasty brown looking junk. Cleaned out the filter as best I could (don't have a spare yet) then cleaned up the water sensor to make sure the float was free and smooth and checked the pet cock o-ring. I worked the primer until it 'felt different' after some more brown crap came out. Re-assembled everything, attached incoming fuel line, and started pumping the primer. It now feels a lot firmer and I could hear fuel filling the filter and kept going until I had fuel coming out of the output line. Re-attached hose to FIP and a couple more primer pumps had it firm as it should be (but wasn't). First start was quick with a bit of smoke and roughness as air was bled out of system. Shut down for a few minutes then tried another start and it was quick and smokeless.
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You can get the filters from most parts stores. Go under a 1985 Toyota pickup 2.4 diesel.
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- #35
Update: Installed a new fuel filter and hose from fuel line to primer pump/filter. Primer stays firm now.
Still hard to start - requires engine to turn over 10-14 times before it fires off then runs rough and smokes for 10 seconds cold or 2-3 seconds warm.
All glow plug components check out (continuity on plugs, rail and resistor, water temp showing correct ohms for ambient).
Glow plugs are Bosch 7v.
Main relay still goes off after 2 sec or immediately and only 9v showing on rail then 4.2v for about 20 sec.
Still wondering if mixing US diesel with half tank of foreign diesel and adding some Clear-Diesel made by Power Service didn't create a tank-full of less than ideal fuel that needs to get used up and fresh added.
Still hard to start - requires engine to turn over 10-14 times before it fires off then runs rough and smokes for 10 seconds cold or 2-3 seconds warm.
All glow plug components check out (continuity on plugs, rail and resistor, water temp showing correct ohms for ambient).
Glow plugs are Bosch 7v.
Main relay still goes off after 2 sec or immediately and only 9v showing on rail then 4.2v for about 20 sec.
Still wondering if mixing US diesel with half tank of foreign diesel and adding some Clear-Diesel made by Power Service didn't create a tank-full of less than ideal fuel that needs to get used up and fresh added.
FJBen
SILVER Star
I would definitely start by draining that diesel out. There should be a drain on the tank. It’s not fun but will help remove another potential issue.
What are the temps at right now? As I stated earlier my glow screen in the Bj74 won’t even turn on for a second until the temps are below 30s.
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- #37
That's 18 gallons at $54 and no place to put it, so I may have to suffer through just using it up and hope the hard start goes away with a fresh tank.
Starting temps are upper 40s low 50s so will have to wait for a morning in low 30s to see if the glow cycle is a bit longer.
you probably just still have air in the system, or still getting air in the system, pretty common. remove any quick disconnect crap from previous owners, any little bad hose or connection or filter seal will allow air to be sucked in (wont leak diesel out) and you wont be able to see it.
you'll know if its air after you fire it and let it clear up, drive it a while, then shut it off for a couple minutes and fire it again. That way its not enough time to allow air to be sucked into the lines again from everything cooling down. The return line or spill line from the injectors is notorious, but im not familiar with the 2l fuel routing, could also be any crush washers on any of the fuel lines/connections.
Id be super suspicious of anything done by anyone else, start there
you'll know if its air after you fire it and let it clear up, drive it a while, then shut it off for a couple minutes and fire it again. That way its not enough time to allow air to be sucked into the lines again from everything cooling down. The return line or spill line from the injectors is notorious, but im not familiar with the 2l fuel routing, could also be any crush washers on any of the fuel lines/connections.
Id be super suspicious of anything done by anyone else, start there
Those old engines will burn pretty much anything, I highly doubt old fuel will be the cause of this problem. If it has been left in a warmish or humid climate with fuel in there, you may have microbial growth in the diesel which requires cleaning.
bj70bc's advice is a great next step in my opinion. One easy test is to get a clean jar of diesel and a new, clean fuel hose straight to the pump (bypassing filter, all other hoses etc). Get the engine running smoothly, stop it for a minute or so, then start again. Most likely it will start up fine and you can rule out any serious engine/injection pump problem (and bad fuel). Toyota still sells generic lengths of 6mm/8mm fuel hose. Throw out any old non-genuine fasteners (poor mechanics love to replace these with inferior jubilee/worm gear clips which do not adjust to thermal expansion and damage the hose ends) and you'll have supple, properly fastened fuel hoses which you can guarantee to seal and be leak-free.
Also, make sure the banjo fittings on the injection pump are tight and not leaking (inlet and overflow/outlet). At this age these pumps are usually due for a re-seal, though slow leaks on injection pumps are not usually an issue with regard to air entry.
bj70bc's advice is a great next step in my opinion. One easy test is to get a clean jar of diesel and a new, clean fuel hose straight to the pump (bypassing filter, all other hoses etc). Get the engine running smoothly, stop it for a minute or so, then start again. Most likely it will start up fine and you can rule out any serious engine/injection pump problem (and bad fuel). Toyota still sells generic lengths of 6mm/8mm fuel hose. Throw out any old non-genuine fasteners (poor mechanics love to replace these with inferior jubilee/worm gear clips which do not adjust to thermal expansion and damage the hose ends) and you'll have supple, properly fastened fuel hoses which you can guarantee to seal and be leak-free.
Also, make sure the banjo fittings on the injection pump are tight and not leaking (inlet and overflow/outlet). At this age these pumps are usually due for a re-seal, though slow leaks on injection pumps are not usually an issue with regard to air entry.
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- #40
I think you folks are correct that this is air in the system and not a fuel quality or glow plug issue.
I noticed that someone put some epoxy around the outlet nipple fitting on the primer body.
I also remember the hard start began right after I cracked the drain on the filter to see if any water came out (none did). In fact, right after I messed with the filter and took for a test drive, the engine quit on me 3 times when it went to idle and I had to restart and it had no power going up hill. That resolved itself after sitting overnight.
If I pump the primer up until firm I get a tiny drip or two out of the drain even closed tight.
I suspect the entire primer/filter assembly may be the problem.
I did remove it and replace the fuel filter and cleaned up the water sensor, then primed until filter was full and primer was firm.
Going to try to bypass and see if that fixes it. If it does, I may have to bite the bullet and pay $120USD for a new unit (keeping the water sensor unit).
I noticed that someone put some epoxy around the outlet nipple fitting on the primer body.
I also remember the hard start began right after I cracked the drain on the filter to see if any water came out (none did). In fact, right after I messed with the filter and took for a test drive, the engine quit on me 3 times when it went to idle and I had to restart and it had no power going up hill. That resolved itself after sitting overnight.
If I pump the primer up until firm I get a tiny drip or two out of the drain even closed tight.
I suspect the entire primer/filter assembly may be the problem.
I did remove it and replace the fuel filter and cleaned up the water sensor, then primed until filter was full and primer was firm.
Going to try to bypass and see if that fixes it. If it does, I may have to bite the bullet and pay $120USD for a new unit (keeping the water sensor unit).
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