indycole
GOLD Star
SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter JamesC
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afgman786
SILVER Star
Hopefully it was not tightened well. Keep an eye on it however.
Corrosion on the positive terminal can also be a sign of systemic overcharging. Classically, AGM batteries are well sealed and won't exhibit much if any corrosion, even under bad conditions. In general, excessive corrosion can be an indicator of overcharging if corrosion is on the positive terminal, and undercharging if on the negative terminal. Too much pressure can still have the battery vent past the seals on the terminal, causing this issue.
TheGrrrrr
GOLD Star
I didn't use a mount. Just bolted it in with some heavy hose cut and used for dampener.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Haven't done my LC but if its anything like my 04 Tundra (and i suspect it is; toyota consistency) the clips on the molding can slide. Make sure you get them lined up with the holes in the door before snapping them in. I had one that was off a bit and had to pull the trim back off and almost bent it.
Is there any practical use for the 120v outlet in the cargo area?
I wanted to use it to power the blower on an Aerobed air mattress for my girls to sleep on camping so I tested it at home before we left and it worked, then out at the campsite nothing. Needless to say I was annoyed borrowing power from an RV site down the road and then stuffing that giant inflated thing through the too-small door on the tent.
Not sure why it worked the first time but at 1.7amps I believe it's drawing nearly twice the 100w limit of that silly inverter and trips off each time since. I thought I'd found a useful way to take advantage of that outlet but no such luck. Back to wondering what the hell it's there for.
I wanted to use it to power the blower on an Aerobed air mattress for my girls to sleep on camping so I tested it at home before we left and it worked, then out at the campsite nothing. Needless to say I was annoyed borrowing power from an RV site down the road and then stuffing that giant inflated thing through the too-small door on the tent.
Not sure why it worked the first time but at 1.7amps I believe it's drawing nearly twice the 100w limit of that silly inverter and trips off each time since. I thought I'd found a useful way to take advantage of that outlet but no such luck. Back to wondering what the hell it's there for.
I've used it several times to charge the battery in my laptop. And once to keep a crock pot full of chili going.
I'm pretty surprised about the crockpot. When I first got the truck and saw the outlet I thought it would be really fun to take a sous vide on the road since they take up so little space but that quickly faded when I looked at the watts required to run the Joule. I'll have to look into charging my Macbook Pro there, if possible that would be of some use.
Thanks
Sous vide on the road... now that's creative.
Now I'm imagining a separate heat exchanger off the radiator, with a separate closed loop of water, running to a coil in the circulator pot. With an adjustable thermostat, depending on what's in the bath.@Markuson here ya go, you're next mod challenge.
I seem to remember I had to keep the Crock Pot on low. It was already cooked, I was just taking it to a pot luck supper. I just remembered... it was queso dip for last year's Super Bowl party.
BAY2MTN
SILVER Star
Wow! Sous vide in the back of your LC!?!?
That’s something I never thought I’d read on this forum.
As a French trained ex-chef, I give you a big thumbs up
Back on topic, that plug is a bit of a disappointment when trying to use my ski boot dryer/warmer before kid’s race. I’ll be looking into some of the aux power setups others have installed.
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This, for sure. So often it has been nicknamed "cruiser queso" - fill it with velveeta and salsa before heading out to my parents place (about 45 mins away), and when we get there? Boom, queso. The kids love it, but don't tell the French chef guy, lol
But would it charge my cordless drill batteries after Harvey? Nope. Turns out the charger (Makita) pulls 140W, trips instantly. Obviously I could go with a much more substantial setup back there, but on my list of things to investigate is whether the stock one could be upgraded or swapped for a slightly stronger inverter, maybe 2-300W? (or like 800-1100 W for sous vide? Probably would take longer than 45mins though) It's pretty far down on the list though. And if I break cruiser queso, I'm in trouble.
2013 LC tint question: I live in the south, my truck has standard from-the-factory rear privacy glass (none on fronts), and I want to reduce interior heat & UV (especially for my 2 year old who passes out in his seat and gets toasted by sun), and try to have even looking/matching tint fronts to rear.
I prefer to not have limo-dark all around. My wife's SUV came close to that after relying on the installer's opinion, and it is really hard to see backing up at night. I just want a medium matching tint all around. But if I have to limo up, then I have to you know. I do not want dark windshield top 1/4 at all - if there is a clear options of course add that advice too.
So - how do I accomplish this?
A. Settle for as is rear and cargo, and then just match front as best as possible? Does this block well enough for rear sleeping kid sun issue?
B. Or tint each window - front, rear, and cargo? So I'd have to tint over top of the factory privacy glass? And if so, ball park %? I've seen 20% posted on mud.
I prefer to not have limo-dark all around. My wife's SUV came close to that after relying on the installer's opinion, and it is really hard to see backing up at night. I just want a medium matching tint all around. But if I have to limo up, then I have to you know. I do not want dark windshield top 1/4 at all - if there is a clear options of course add that advice too.
So - how do I accomplish this?
A. Settle for as is rear and cargo, and then just match front as best as possible? Does this block well enough for rear sleeping kid sun issue?
B. Or tint each window - front, rear, and cargo? So I'd have to tint over top of the factory privacy glass? And if so, ball park %? I've seen 20% posted on mud.
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About to pull the trigger on small/leveling front lift. I parked beside a sharp looking ~2019 today. It had stock everything from best I could tell, oem sized tires (mine are 65 ratio vs 60), and it just had a better front stance. Nose was an inch or so higher it appeared. I want this. I had this on my 4runner ( 5/8" spacer for 1.25"ish level lift ) and loved it.
Is there anything slightly bigger than the ~3/8" (43136-60020) OEM spacer that I can do without replacing suspension and all that? I see the bolts run out of enough threads if go much more than this OEM option, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I have a good install shop that focuses on LC/Yotas down the road and just want to make sure I have the experts' opinions (here) before getting their expert feedback as well.
Thanks folks. Stupid question(s) of the day thread is where I belong. ha
Is there anything slightly bigger than the ~3/8" (43136-60020) OEM spacer that I can do without replacing suspension and all that? I see the bolts run out of enough threads if go much more than this OEM option, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. I have a good install shop that focuses on LC/Yotas down the road and just want to make sure I have the experts' opinions (here) before getting their expert feedback as well.
Thanks folks. Stupid question(s) of the day thread is where I belong. ha
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That 10mm factory spacer will give you ~1" or so of total lift up front if I'm not mistaken. If that's not enough, you could stack another one of the factory spacers, or even cut apart a factory top strut mount and use it as a smaller spacer (stacked with the 10mm to net 1.25"-1.5" added height or so). All of this assuming there is suitable length on the studs just like you mentioned. To check available stud length, it's as simple as measuring the amount of exposed threads on them now, then subtracting enough length to leave a couple threads past the top of the nut once installed with spacers.
Honestly, there is zero reason you couldn't simply add a washer on each of the 4 studs (after sliding on the 10mm spacer, but before installing in the frame bracket) and use that to fine-tune what height you're after. Many might say it's sketchy or ghetto, but in reality it'd work just fine. It'd even be 100% undetectable after install.
Any of the 2nd gen Tundra/Sequoia strut spacers will work too. Not sure if they're available in the smaller lift heights though.
Honestly, there is zero reason you couldn't simply add a washer on each of the 4 studs (after sliding on the 10mm spacer, but before installing in the frame bracket) and use that to fine-tune what height you're after. Many might say it's sketchy or ghetto, but in reality it'd work just fine. It'd even be 100% undetectable after install.
Any of the 2nd gen Tundra/Sequoia strut spacers will work too. Not sure if they're available in the smaller lift heights though.
Markuson
SILVER Star
This, for sure. So often it has been nicknamed "cruiser queso" - fill it with velveeta and salsa before heading out to my parents place (about 45 mins away), and when we get there? Boom, queso. The kids love it, but don't tell the French chef guy, lol
But would it charge my cordless drill batteries after Harvey? Nope. Turns out the charger (Makita) pulls 140W, trips instantly. Obviously I could go with a much more substantial setup back there, but on my list of things to investigate is whether the stock one could be upgraded or swapped for a slightly stronger inverter, maybe 2-300W? (or like 800-1100 W for sous vide? Probably would take longer than 45mins though) It's pretty far down on the list though. And if I break cruiser queso, I'm in trouble.
[Eyes working ok last couple days...woo! ]
Re 110AC power...
See this oldthread of mine:
Cutting Big Scary Holes (Inverter Success :)
So I finally took the plunge and hacked a pretty ugly hole in my driver door panel... Been wanting to find a practical mounting spot for the control/monitoring board in connection with my fairly-high-powered 1500 Watt sine wave Inverter... Starts out pretty dang ugly-- But the ugly cleaned...
forum.ih8mud.com
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If it nets about 1" then I'd be satisfied. Thanks @bryson
Don't quote me on the height it nets, but I'm pretty sure it's in the neighborhood.
Everyone seems to echo your ~1". All good.
And somehow I just saw this other thread and after pic for the first time. Thanks @foeix
