SQOD Squad - Stupid Question Of the Day (1 Viewer)

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Does anybody know if it is possible to disassemble the rca input portion of the center console for the rear seat entertainment? My kids managed to accidentally break off the male plugs inside the inputs and I'm unable to pull them out, so I'm curious if I might be able to push them out from the back side?
 
Does anybody know if it is possible to disassemble the rca input portion of the center console for the rear seat entertainment? My kids managed to accidentally break off the male plugs inside the inputs and I'm unable to pull them out, so I'm curious if I might be able to push them out from the back side?

You are asking about the headphone jack, correct? Asked as an RCA jack is a different kind of connector.

Anyway for the headphone jack, my year's model show no opening on the back, yours might be different.

There is a thread on the subject:
 
Time for another one.... those of you that have lift and front coil spacer, did you do a diff drop? I've read that the CV are stout but is this too much angle?

View attachment 2209064

That looks to be about where mine sits. I tow a 27ft Airstream as well that will exacerbate the angles and haven’t had any issues. I have about 100k miles on my lift without any failures. The only thing that I have found recently is that one cv boot has started squeaking a little. I hit it with silicone spray and that makes it go away for a bit.
 
I got the following lights blinking since yesterday:

IMG_20200223_164446.jpg


(the 4lo was blinking and not fully lighted in this picture)

I did an obd scan and it gave me two P0500 problems which points at the VSS.

I have a few questions:

1) I bought this vehicle recently and last week I tried to engage the difflock in low gear but it didn't engage at all and it left me with a long time or trouble shooting (stop/start mainly) to get out of L4.
Later I read that I probably didn't drive a long enough distance for it to engage. Could this be related ? I fear L4 and difflock hadn't been used with it since 2008.

2) Is the battery voltage on the picture below low ? If so could that be related ?

IMG_20200224_135018.jpg


3) I can't engage the vehicle in L4 with this error. Is that normal ?

4) Suddenly the parking brake light also doesn't go away. Also related ?


It would really help if someone could answer my questions and I guess Ill have to make an appointment with the garage...
 
I got the following lights blinking since yesterday:

View attachment 2220553

(the 4lo was blinking and not fully lighted in this picture)

I did an obd scan and it gave me two P0500 problems which points at the VSS.

I have a few questions:

1) I bought this vehicle recently and last week I tried to engage the difflock in low gear but it didn't engage at all and it left me with a long time or trouble shooting (stop/start mainly) to get out of L4.
Later I read that I probably didn't drive a long enough distance for it to engage. Could this be related ? I fear L4 and difflock hadn't been used with it since 2008.

2) Is the battery voltage on the picture below low ? If so could that be related ?

View attachment 2220554

3) I can't engage the vehicle in L4 with this error. Is that normal ?

4) Suddenly the parking brake light also doesn't go away. Also related ?


It would really help if someone could answer my questions and I guess Ill have to make an appointment with the garage...
Yea that battery voltage is low. There can be lots of reasons for those lights together unfortunately.
 
</SNIP>
1) When slowing (to say 10mph or lower) my 2016+ LC makes a noise that seems to be coming from the driver side mirror, but the mirror doesn't seem to move? It's an electrical servo-like sound and lasts about 1-2 seconds. What could this be?
</SNIP>

Answering my question from earlier in case others come upon this topic....I did some more searching found a reply from bjowett to a similar question about servo noise while stopping. He said it was the hydraulic brake booster maintaining pressure, which makes more sense than a mirror motor. I'll pay attention, but believe that's the issue.
 
Yea that battery voltage is low. There can be lots of reasons for those lights together unfortunately.

So when I drive a little bit the lights go out. I'm not a mechanic but at least it seems plausible to me that this could be due to the battery. For example it charges a bit and then the lights go out.
 
Voltage in 1st looks fine, agree 2nd is low. I've learned the 200 will light up like a Christmas tree like that for an awful lot of reasons seemingly unrelated to VSC , CDL, etc. I guess too many of us were ignoring the CEL so Toyota decided to take drastic measures!

Not a mechanic, but I'll hazard a guess that the sensor that tells the truck that the parking brake is off isnt working consistently, or maybe is a little loose? Maybe if the ECU thinks the p brake is on, then it might trigger a protection circuit to prevent shifting in/out of 4Lo?

P. S. battery theory plausible I guess. Seems like low voltages throw a lot of non-automotive electronics for a loop, so perhaps here? Tracking when it occurs would help rule it in or out. Is it flashing right after startup and going away after a few minutes? Or after sitting for several days?
 
One more thought... My 2008 alternator failed at somewhere around 120-125k, IIRC. Failing alt maybe taking longer to recharge or having hard time maintaining voltage under load? And thus making electronics unhappy too?
 
Low brake fluid will also turn this light on. Check the reservoir.
Thanks, Will do!

I just measured the battery with a multimeter and it had 12.1 volts when the car was turned off. It also looks very old to be honest but I couldn't find a date on it (it seemed to have had a sticker which almost completely rotted away).

I did find a serial and perhaps you guys can extract a date from it ?

IMG_20200225_162324.jpg


I have a vtec battery charger and believe it also can test the battery. I'm going to hook it to the terminals tomorrow to see what it says (my spine is messed up and I can only do a limited amount of tasks per day).

If the alternator is bad then wouldn't that mean that the voltage in the first photo would be lower than the almost 14v it reports ? Or is that considered low already?

Anyway, thanks for the support so far. This forum is awesome !!
 
Thanks, Will do!

I just measured the battery with a multimeter and it had 12.1 volts when the car was turned off. It also looks very old to be honest but I couldn't find a date on it (it seemed to have had a sticker which almost completely rotted away).

I did find a serial and perhaps you guys can extract a date from it ?

View attachment 2221530

I have a vtec battery charger and believe it also can test the battery. I'm going to hook it to the terminals tomorrow to see what it says (my spine is messed up and I can only do a limited amount of tasks per day).

If the alternator is bad then wouldn't that mean that the voltage in the first photo would be lower than the almost 14v it reports ? Or is that considered low already?

Anyway, thanks for the support so far. This forum is awesome !!
Your measured battery voltage is low, and the charging voltage on your gauge is low as well. I'll wager that the battery and alternator are both toast. Likely one went first and killed the other.

I'd also bet that the voltage issue is the root cause of your dash lights.
 
Does anyone else think the battery date is Dec. 30 2014? This would be a solid reason to replace it.
 
I think it's July of 2014 (or July of 2004 - pretty unlikely)

A=Jan, B=Feb,..., F=Jun, G=Jul,...

0=2000, 1=2001,..., 9=2009, 0=2010, 1=2011, ..., 4=2014,...
 
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I have a 2011 LC and notice that when the steering wheel telescopes in/out, the motor makes a noise just like in this video at ~0:50.

I used to have a 2002 LX470 and the motor was nearly silent, though it was a well lubricated screw type. At first I thought my 2011 motor was going bad but after looking at several different LC startup/walkaround videos on youtube (thanks, dealerships) it seems to be normal. Just wondering what everyone else's experience is. Do we just have loud motors? Trying to imagine why they would sound like that...maybe just a different type of mechanism. I haven't ever gone behind the plastic to see how this type works.

Edit: After some more research I can't seem to find a specific part number for the motor. However, it is clearly part of the steering column assembly. It looks to be a motor-driven screw like in the 100 series, but using a gear assy so it can be mounted at a 90 degree angle. Just thinking ahead that no matter what, it doesn't look as simple to replace. I'll probably turn off the auto tilt/tele function on engine start/stop so that it is preserved over time, but am still curious if everyone else's makes that noise (or at least on a pre-2016).

4581060082-0.jpg
 
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Engine braking question:

This is what Im doing: I push the transmission in S/M and shift down one but most of the time two gears while going downhill to prevent the Land cruiser from accelerating (and having to brake constantly).

Is that how everyone else does it ? We have tons of hills here and 75% of the time Im either going up or downhill.
 
Engine braking question:

This is what Im doing: I push the transmission in S/M and shift down one but most of the time two gears while going downhill to prevent the Land cruiser from accelerating (and having to brake constantly).

Is that how everyone else does it ? We have tons of hills here and 75% of the time Im either going up or downhill.

My normal driving mode is S/M 6 with ECT set to PWR. Lots of hills around me as well, I just shift up or down as required (or, just leave it at 6 if I'm lazy). FYI, if cruise control is set, it stays on in 4, 5 and 6 - if you shift down to 3, then it shuts off.

HTH
 

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