LOL 80 are boats
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- Thread starter
- #303
How the hell are you going to be under 6K fully-loaded? I don't see how that's possible.
I know your new engine is light. But really that much lighter?
Ready to wheel I was at 6430lbs with a full tank of fuel, me in the driver seat, but no food in the fridge or extra clothes in the attic rack. Between motor and trans she's dropping 350-400, and that's not counting all the ancillary parts around the 1fz that are getting tossed at the same time. Pound here and couple pounds there adds up quick when you have boxes of stuff thats never going back on. It will be close, but I'll be ecstatic if I rollit across the cat scale and see 59xx loaded in the same manner.
- Thread starter
- #306
Last side today. Only took me 4 weekends. Ugh. 1 side each weekend. It's a lot of f...kn work welding it up. Thin sheet metal sucks.
I still need to close up the pie cuts up front only. Ita cosmetic at this point but 100% clearanced and functional
I still need to close up the pie cuts up front only. Ita cosmetic at this point but 100% clearanced and functional
Did you remove the springs and cycle the suspension in different scenarios to determine exactly how much body you needed to remove or just guess?
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- #309
Eyeballed, free handed and guessed. Good enough. Lol.
And a lot of big f...kn hammer! Sledge hammer too.
The other way takes months instead of weeks, ask me how I know
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- #313
I bought a WTOR Red neck ram 9 x 1.5. I'm glad I did because it gave me more steering angle. I could have used a 10inch ram. But I rather backup one more time to be easier on the birfs.
Ordered a bunch of AN6 and AN10 lines from Summit and amazon to finish my reservoir and cooler install. I have a 1.75 inch drag link bar I will be cutting off and welding on new ends to work with my EMF TREs (already have EMFs in the rear tie rod bar with my new hydro). Then I will be welding on the axle housing trusses, diff armor and knuckle ball reinforcement. That's going to surely melt the axle seals. So the front axle will need to be rebuilt and what better time to pull the diff out when the shafts are out. Pulling the diff out will go out for 5.29 install. That's the one thing I'm not confident on DIY. I'll rebuild a motor before I'll do my own gears. I really need someone to show me how its done so I can learn. Or maybe watch a few dozen YouTube videos.
Lots of front end work going on. Won't really get to test out my new hydro till the front end is all back together.
I now have a left over 8inch x 1.5 PSC ram. Should I sell it? Or should install it on my Turbo80 up front on the drag link bar?
Ordered a bunch of AN6 and AN10 lines from Summit and amazon to finish my reservoir and cooler install. I have a 1.75 inch drag link bar I will be cutting off and welding on new ends to work with my EMF TREs (already have EMFs in the rear tie rod bar with my new hydro). Then I will be welding on the axle housing trusses, diff armor and knuckle ball reinforcement. That's going to surely melt the axle seals. So the front axle will need to be rebuilt and what better time to pull the diff out when the shafts are out. Pulling the diff out will go out for 5.29 install. That's the one thing I'm not confident on DIY. I'll rebuild a motor before I'll do my own gears. I really need someone to show me how its done so I can learn. Or maybe watch a few dozen YouTube videos.
Lots of front end work going on. Won't really get to test out my new hydro till the front end is all back together.
I now have a left over 8inch x 1.5 PSC ram. Should I sell it? Or should install it on my Turbo80 up front on the drag link bar?
I think it's worth it to pull the front axle housing to do all that welding, That how I did mine, I also used a Jig when doing all The welding
- Thread starter
- #315
Yea I saw your post on that. Unfortunately, don't have a BIG ASS railroad tie or beam to use to anchor it down to prevent warping. I know that's the preferred method but I can't think of any way to put downward pressure on it.I think it's worth it to pull the front axle housing to do all that welding, That how I did mine, I also used a Jig when doing all The welding
I do have some 4 foot tall jack stands I could put on the frame allowing the heavy 125lbs tires to hang down. I was also thinking of maybe using a small bottle jack to push down on the ball some how. I'm thinking maybe a lot of wood pressed up on the inner wheel well or shock tower to put a downward force.
I do not like taking out the whole axle housing alone. I did that 3 times in the past. Once on my Turbo80 and twice on my sold 93 LC. Only had help once and the other two times I fought the reinstall for hours. Not my idea of fun solo wrenching job.
The least I will be doing is putting the entire truck in the air with my 4foot jack stands on the frame and letting all 125lbs each wheel hang. Tack it all into place and SLLLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOWWWWLLLLY stitch weld all that on. I mean slow too. I will do 1" inch every 15 to 30mins and work side to side. It'll take me probably a week to stitch all that in but that's the only way I can think of letting it cool down to prevent warping.
I would highly recommend Ken (Zuk) @gearinstalls.com
You can learn a lot just surfing his website. If it's not done right, you'll have to tear your axle apart to get the 3rd member back out to tweak on it again - tons of fun. Ken put my 5.29's and Harrops in on both my axles. They've been running flawlessly for over 2 yrs, now. A super talented and knowledgeable guy. It's worth it for peace of mind, alone. I'd at least call him and kick it around. One other thing - I've heard the 5.29 pinion gear is weaker than other ratios and might be an "Achilles Heel" for your setup - tire size and trails you run. He would be the guy to ask about that too.
- Thread starter
- #317
My retired toyota master mechanic buddy does all my gears for free. Just finding time for him to help is the issue. He's done 5 of my other trucks so far. Probably done thousands in his career. He showed me once but I didn't pay attention. Spent more time drinking and bbqing the food then watching him. lol
5.29s are the only way to go to get more reduction. Not my first truck with 5.29s. It's all about how much skinny pedal you use.
5.29s are the only way to go to get more reduction. Not my first truck with 5.29s. It's all about how much skinny pedal you use.
Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
5:29s, RCV”s, low range tcase gears and lots of skinny peddle on my 80 for almost two years now and no problems! Keep an 80 somewhat light and they are reliable...nice job on the hydro assist! That’s my next project too.
Running the same setup with out issues, been on 39s for over a year now plus the 10% under drive.
- Thread starter
- #320
If I lift it with my 4 foot jackstands on the frame. it's decent space to weld underneath. It wont look pretty in spots with hard access.Strip everything off the housing before you pull it you need to anyway, after that it’s pretty easy to man handle I just can’t see doing all that welding under the truck.
Do you use ratchet straps when reinstalling the housing ? I do mine by my self and I’m a old geezerHaha
Yea I use ratchet straps to reinstall the Housing Radius arms. However. My garage is at a slight slope so gravity wants to pull it down hill a bit. It's a 2 man job on my driveway. If it was flat I could probably solo. Fighting gravity is a bitc*
I hear fighting words about me being a young man and not being able to do it myself. LOL.
......... just kidding
