Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC (11 Viewers)

[Dannyboy lx470]

Funny same as Whitelady had!
View attachment 1395448


@PADDO can best answer this.

A shop recommended to PO that he replace shocks on whitelady as they report leaks on two fronts and age on rears at ~200K miles. PADDO had me flush and they were fine.

The PO on this 07 paid Dealer $175 (list $215) per front shock plus flush $195 and labor $544 for a total of $833.50 plus tax and shop fees.

I found on three LX (215K, 267K & 299K miles on clock) I purchased last year, that all had factory parts sill in/on AHC including shocks. They just needed flushing and proper set up. Only parts needed was 1 can of AHC fluid and rubber caps for bleeders for each rig.

Thankyou for that.I just changed the fluid in mine and have noticed the difference not a huge one but its better even I noticed the difference when switching modes for the dampening of shocks.Guys I notice to I get a nicer ride when tyres a pumped around 35 to 37 psi at 40 psi the car is more bumpy and you feel everything on the road alot more.

 

[2001LC]

Probably the best way to familiarize yourself with Techstream is to systematically go through all available ECU tabs and see what test, diagnostics and utility functions are available. Take notes when you strike something you think will be valuable now or in the future. I don't believe you can do any irreparable or significant damage like screw up an ECU reflash with the cloned VCI and cracked Techstream as the interface simply isn't that sophisticated. But in areas like ABS/VSC ECU when you do a zero point recal by clearing the "memory" you are clearly warned to ensure you're on dead flat ground, no vehicle movement etc before proceeding so you shouldn't accidentally muff a setting up.
The low AHC fluid levels you're seeing in your high mileage trucks is most likely attributed to diminished charges [in the absence of an obvious external leak] in the four damper accumulators and the height accumulator and not receiving a periodic fluid change with associated level re set. As the damper spheres/globes/accumulators loose charge over the years the decrease in nitrogen pressure/volume is taken up by more fluid being forced into the sphere body. The result is basically less "gas spring" resulting in diminished damping and a gradually lowering fluid level in the reservoir.
Re CV boot damage and the AHC N height hunting. Firstly it's normal for the system to do little leveling self corrections and re stabilize itself. By little I'm thinking maybe .25 to .5 inch max. Hard to estimate when you're in the drivers seat, you'd need to have Techstream hooked up and monitor the height sensor feedback to put real numbers on the degree of movement. I think as long as the suspension system articulates through its normal range then I have trouble seeing this impact and prematurely wear out the boots like caked on mud and other abrasives. That's not to say that an outrageously high duty cycle won't impact the pumps motor for example. If the vehicle is randomly hunting through its full Low to High height range and not settling at a consistent N height for driving then that will obviously have a negative impact on your alignment.
If the replacement shocks were fitted dry then you'd expect that the resulting free air in the system would well and truly be entrained as microscopic bubbles in the fluid after 15k miles. These bubbles might eventually work themselves out somewhat but it's by far best to just avoid as much as practically possible introducing bulk air into any hydraulic system when its opened up. If you crack each bleeder and just drain off an once or so you should get some indication if you have any bulk air bubbles or foaming as the microscopic bubbles expand when the fluid pressure is reduced to atmospheric. If your ride is OK then you probably don't need to do anything too drastic at this time, just get your pressures and heights set up and go from there.

Thanks @PADDO, I can always count on you for good info.

I agree dirty & road grim can cause a lot of issue if not regularly washed off Undercarriage, wheel well, suspension etc.. The undercarriage on this rig isn't to dirty surprisingly.

I've found common issues with boots (CV & BJ) of all four 100's with AHC. Issue I've not seen with my 01LC (none AHC). Granted I wash my undercarriage as often as body paint. That said I'm really thinking stance (height) above or below factory spec is putting extra wear on boots. The guys running lift especially with a differential drop could help answer this.

In this 07 the shop records noted low level and client comments of system going up and down. I found in the 01LX, front end dropping and rising by inches like if bottom out as fluid slushed around in bottom of reservoir, very apparent when coming to and while waiting at a stop. PO said; it always does that "it's how know it's working". I suspected last year with the 3 different LX's and now with this 07LC AHC, that improperly maintained AHC system is putting undue wear on boots.

Thankyou for that.I just changed the fluid in mine and have noticed the difference not a huge one but its better even I noticed the difference when switching modes for the dampening of shocks. Guys I notice to I get a nicer ride when tyres a pumped around 35 to 37 psi at 40 psi the car is more bumpy and you feel everything on the road alot more.

Interesting Toyota changed it's tire pressure recommendation from all 32 psi, to fronts at 29psi in 2000.

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

Thanks @PADDO, I can always count on you for good info.

I agree dirty & road grim can cause a lot of issue if not regularly washed off Undercarriage, wheel well, suspension etc.. The undercarriage on this rig isn't to dirty surprisingly.

I've found common issues with boots (CV & BJ) of all four 100's with AHC. Issue I've not seen with my 01LC (none AHC). Granted I wash my undercarriage as often as body paint. That said I'm really thinking stance (height) above or below factory spec is putting extra wear on boots. The guys running lift especially with a differential drop could help answer this.

In this 07 the shop records noted low level and client comments of system going up and down. I found in the 01LX, front end dropping and rising by inches like if bottom out as fluid slushed around in bottom of reservoir, very apparent when coming to and while waiting at a stop. PO said; it always does that "it's how know it's working". I suspected last year with the 3 different LX's and now with this 07LC AHC, that improperly maintained AHC system is putting undue wear on boots.

Interesting Toyota changed it's tire pressure recommendation from all 32 psi, to fronts at 29psi in 2000.

I have got General tyres on mine from USA and there maximumis 44psi. I Usually pump them around 35 psi .Do you follow Toyota's recommended or you differ ?.

 

[2001LC]

With stock tires I use factory spec PSI. At least for test drives & alignment/AHC setup.

That said: 2 to 3 psi below for snow & ice. Other times 2 to PSI above (F31/32 & R34/35 PSI).

 

[2001LC]

Well I've had the 07 for two weeks now. I've gotten all documentation needed to title, gave seller and titled owner final payments.

I've not done any mechanical work yet. I have cleaned & conditioned leather, wash body paint once, and repeatedly wash undercarriage and engine compartment for inspection proposes..

I have been drive and inspecting, and found a couple more issue that will need fixing. One area being the rear stabilizer lower link bar cushion's are shot. This is most likely the sound I've been hearing. Bar moves about 1/8" independent of both links on rears of the 07LC. Edited: These were replace and subsequently both front and rear stabilizer system was rebuilt page # 8 post #154-156 Just scored a 2007 LC

As luck would have it the a front stabilizer link broke on the Kings (01LC) so I'm going to fix it first, as I continue drive and inspect the 07. I've got the King on stands now, soaking nuts & bolts with penetrating oil, waiting on parts for front & rear stabilizers. I'm just going to use all OEM parts.

The other issue I found post purchase on the 07 is a coolant leak, it's small and indication are it's new. This could have been and engine killer if PO kept the rig.

I first noticed reservoir near high mark when engine at operating temp, but empty when cold. Radiator was full but color of coolant red, which is wrong for 07. I then found some crusty red flake around upper rotator hose. Sometimes when hose is disconnected it will leak just a bit at first, often stopping soon thereafter. This hose does not appear to be and active leak.

I pressed on inspecting and found an active leak at front water bypass joint on RH side.

I cleaned & re-torque but looks like I'll need new gaskets.

I'll need to pull intake manifold to replace gaskets of front bypass. So may do rear bypass gaskets, heater tees & starter rebuild while intake off. I may as well RR thermostat and flush coolant replacing with SLL (pink) while at it.

 

[adrenalinefjz80]

Curious if you have driven a 200 to compare the different iterations of 100s you've had.

 

[m3fan]

Curious if you have driven a 200 to compare the different iterations of 100s you've had.

There really is not much in common as far as driving feel between a 100 and 200. Totally different vehicles entirely.

 

[2001LC]

I've not driven the 200, but between the 01LC/LX and the 07LC with VVTi w/ 5spd I do feel the extra pep.

 

[2001LC]

Took a long time, but I finally confirmed cause of oil leak in pan area.

Pin pointing leak.

First photographs:

1st cleaning & after ~30 mile drive;

3rd cleaning & after third ~30 mile drive;

Can see glistening of oil coming down from dip stick guide tube grommet/seal;

Oil dip stick guide tube seal (O-ring that fits under grommet) a Dealer part for $1,79. Will be a cheap & easy fix, wish coolant leak would have been as sweet!

 

[bucfl]

I may need to invest in a mirror. Very handy.

 

[abuck99]

I may need to invest in a mirror. Very handy.

If you can find one with a light on it let me know-

 

[2001LC]

Got started on the 2007's mechanical stuff today. I had to run back and pick up 7 missing parts that I was invoiced plus another boot kit. That never happened before. So the only things I got done was compression test and clean & inspect the spark plugs.

Looks like my gauge may read ~10LBS low, but it was consistent. So either I have 180LBS with #7 184LBS & #8 189LBS or 190LBS etc.. Either way I'm happy.

Interest I often see #7 & #8 cylinders highest no matter how many miles on engine..

Interesting spark plug states assembled in USA. Sure sign these aren't originals from the Toyota factory in Japan.

#7 & # 4 spark plugs have some yellow striations on procalean streaming out from seal, which may be leaks but minor if they are.
This is one more thing I'm see a little to often. It can be caused by over torqueing, but these nor the other I've seen were.

Tomorrow with nice weather to make the garage comfortable, I'll pull the intake manifold. But that may be my last warm day for awhile. I'm not in a hurry so when every time & weather allows I'll get more done.

 

[abuck99]

Curious to know why you are pulling the manifold off? Starter?

When you get around to the CV reboot, I found the plier type clamping tool

to barely get the job done- not quite enough torque to squeeze the clamp to the required factory spec (the small gap on the crimp), even using wratchet extensions in the tool.

I will be buying one of these next time I need to do a reboot:
OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer
Amazon.com: OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer: Automotive

 

[2001LC]

The intake manifold is over the Front Water Bypass Joint with about 1/4 gap between the two. The water bypass is held in place by ~1 1/2" tall/long studs.

It appears I must remove the intake to lift up the FWBJoint too clear the studs. If anyone knows of a work-around, lets me know, as it would save time and money.

Notice all the FIPG at water inlet to water pump. It's going to be fun breaking that apart. I found a number of broken clips and missing bolts, apparently from Toyota Dealer shop that did the TB/WP job at ~90K miles. The guy was sloppy (see black FIPG finger prints) and fast I'll bet.

Starter:
Starter actually works fine. My plan "was" to rebuild the starter just because I'm in the area. I've since learned the 07 starter is not like the later (98-02) models, in that individual parts aren't available. Toyota Dealer only carries "magnet switch" (solenoid)# 28150-50110 is at least 10 days out. ~$107.00 including the tax, retail is ~$137.00. Another potential problem is that they can't order the O-rings or gasket to re-seal the starter. It is a "non-service part" and they don't have a number for it. There is available the Brush Holder, Yoke, and Armature assembly as separate parts to order. I have seen contact points online but no plunger. My parts guy went ahead and order me 2002 starter parts just incase I wanted to see if they'll fit.

It may also be necessary to pull the A/I pump to get at the starter. If so I'll not be pulling either.

Once I get intake off I'll try to determine if the older parts will fit. I'm going to just look at starter in place. But from what I've learned so far they're not going to. The crank and hold feature may be why Toyota changed.

Had this 07 had issue with A/I pump or starter then I probably just buy a replacement, assuming seals can't readily be found.

I'm going to update Best starter for the money today? to reflect that difference in 98-02 & 03-07 starters. Bottom line it more than triples the cost to DIY rebuild and not all parts are obtainable from Toyota Dealer.


Tools:

Those are nice tools @abuck99 thanks for sharing.

I've ended up with a NAPA tool a Lexus mechanic sold me (his old one) years ago. This was while we were looking through his massive tool box for the OTC tool. His tool box was so massive, after 30 plus years, he had to have tow truck haul it out when he retired from Lexus.

He said they just use this K-D 424 he sold me, most of the time.

Just waiting for weather to warm a bit today before going out to garage to fix coolant leak. So if anyone knows of way to pull water bypass with removing intake please speak up soon?

 

[2001LC]

Finally got around to pulling intake manifold off, so I could replace water bypass gasket. Not a hard job just time consuming..

I'm glad I did the job as I learned a lot about the new design of the intake manifold. It's pretty cool, and is light weight with eight butterflies (looked like throttle bodies) in inside roof. Unlike the older aluminum which split in half by remove bolts making cleaning a breeze, these don't.

Pictures were take with Intake upside down on beach.

All butterflies' are on one central shaft which appear control by vacuum valve on back & underside.

 

[2001LC]

I found the VVti with plastic intake "leaks" at head to intake gasket. So it was one more reason the coolant leak repair job was worthwhile, as the added benefit of replacing intake gaskets with thicker replacement OEM's.

I've no doubt most if not all the 06-07 have a leak at intake, that needs to be addressed.

Old in bag, new on intake. Notice the different design with raised ridge running down the center (top & bottom)

Old was thinner than new. New design, shrunk or both?:

New:

Pulling throttle body made cleaning easy:

New throttle body gasket measured ~1.1mm thicker. Design appeared the same just beefier. Shrinkages or beefy new design IDK.

 

[2001LC]

I's say to anyone with a VVTi go pull your engine cover and look at lower end of intake plumes at head ports. If you see oily gunk build-up replace your intake gaskets, they are leaking oil. If oil get out, I'll bet air gets in (vacuum leak).

The gunk build-up, is seen on every lower intake port exterior, spreads outward and up.
Head cover gaskets are good and tight, gunk is from intake manifold oil. Source is PCV valve oil settling in intake, leaking out gaskets.

I posted some info on this leak in:
P0420 and P0430 - 2006 LC

 

[2001LC]

So the front water bypass joint leak repair, which was actual reason for pulling the intake, went well. Although I needed more parts than I first ordered. The $2.00 gasket turn into a ~$400 job and I'll still need ~$200 more for fan should & machine flush before I'm done with coolant system job. I normally DIY flush but I can not evacuate the last gallon in the system DIY, to get the red or what's in there now out.

I no longer think this leak had just started. It was very small, or at least until I re-torqued bypass bolts.

I ended up replacing not only gaskets, but front water bypass due to pitting of goose neck, upper radiator hose, water inlet, thermostat & seal. It also took the very pricy (retail ~$90, my cost $67) FIPG specially formulated for coolant, and only that should be use with SLL pink coolant (so I'm told by Dealer).

Note: Thermostat in boiling water test, open 9mm not the 10mm required. I also tested my 01LC thermostat and found it only opened 8.5mm so I replace it also.
Our engine have the worlds easiest thermostats to replace 1/8

 

[bucfl]

Coming along nicely!

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, all be it a bit slow. I did drive for a month, it's a sweet ride and has pep. Should run even smoother now that I've replaced intake gaskets.

With warmer evenings at hand, things will start picking up. I should have engine work done in the next week. If weather holds I'll get going on front end; boots, knuckles, hubs flange, bearings my favorite stuff soon. Haven't reboot in years so should be interesting.

I'm going too buff out paint with heavy cut, before touching up, as I did on Whitelady. That way I can better see what touch-up is needed.