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2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #63
A bit chilly in the garage today, but managed to get a little play time in.
I've no doubt the mechanic doing the timing belt broke this Fan shroud. I can envision him, as he holds the fan in one hand and tosses the shroud to the side (on concert) with the other.
I spend more time fixing stuff due to mechanic's incompetence, neglect, laziness, in a hurry, bad practice, improper procedure or spacing out... you get the idea. Once I do get them under control, it's back to just normal PM and reliability.
Pulled the fan shroud in preparation for replacement I'll order in the morning.
While off it gave me a good chance to inspect the: drive belt, fan clutch, fan bracket bearing, tensioner pulley bearing an idler pulley bearing. All were really good. Except the idler is a bit noisy but not enough to warrant replacing yet (OEM's tend to be nosy) maybe anther 20K.
I've no doubt the mechanic doing the timing belt broke this Fan shroud. I can envision him, as he holds the fan in one hand and tosses the shroud to the side (on concert) with the other.
I spend more time fixing stuff due to mechanic's incompetence, neglect, laziness, in a hurry, bad practice, improper procedure or spacing out... you get the idea. Once I do get them under control, it's back to just normal PM and reliability.
Pulled the fan shroud in preparation for replacement I'll order in the morning.
While off it gave me a good chance to inspect the: drive belt, fan clutch, fan bracket bearing, tensioner pulley bearing an idler pulley bearing. All were really good. Except the idler is a bit noisy but not enough to warrant replacing yet (OEM's tend to be nosy) maybe anther 20K.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #64
That didn't take long so I knock off one more job, fixed the oil dipstick guide oil leak... 1/8
Only one bolt holds on the dipstick guide tube. By jacking up and placing jack stand for safety, I was able to easily get at bolt (with wheel on) to break loose.
I then snaked the guide tube out through the top of engine bay. Once out I removed the O-ring and clean the groove it seats in, which set just below the grommet that's part of the oil dipstick guide tube. I used some M1 HM oil (should be ok, but FSM recommends soapy water) I had lying around on new O-ring and place it in its' groove on the guide. Once guide tube was ready, I snaked it back into it's approximant area between steering column and engine. Then I rolled under the engine on my creeper, using my mirror to aid in reseating the guide.
I then replace the bolt, which I found easest to do left handed from front of engine. Finished up torqueing bolt to 11ft-lbf.
Only one bolt holds on the dipstick guide tube. By jacking up and placing jack stand for safety, I was able to easily get at bolt (with wheel on) to break loose.
I then snaked the guide tube out through the top of engine bay. Once out I removed the O-ring and clean the groove it seats in, which set just below the grommet that's part of the oil dipstick guide tube. I used some M1 HM oil (should be ok, but FSM recommends soapy water) I had lying around on new O-ring and place it in its' groove on the guide. Once guide tube was ready, I snaked it back into it's approximant area between steering column and engine. Then I rolled under the engine on my creeper, using my mirror to aid in reseating the guide.
I then replace the bolt, which I found easest to do left handed from front of engine. Finished up torqueing bolt to 11ft-lbf.
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Couple questions for you.
1. Why can you not get the last bit of old red out with your usual flush procedure?
2. While you had intake off did you check out the rear bypass gaskets or to see if there was pitting?
3. The new style intake gaskets that you linked with the other thread, do you believe that is why there are the codes thrown on the 06-07 models from this changed gasket design that starts with a vacuum leak? Was there any of these codes on yours before you changed the gaskets?
4. How are the other aluminum lines in the coolant system? Any signs of corrosion?
I feel your pain with poor workmanship. I see it all the time from my co workers, fabricators to contractors working on my house. The worst though is someone that tells of others poor workmanship and how they are "meticulous" come to find out they are just as bad if not worse.
1. Why can you not get the last bit of old red out with your usual flush procedure?
2. While you had intake off did you check out the rear bypass gaskets or to see if there was pitting?
3. The new style intake gaskets that you linked with the other thread, do you believe that is why there are the codes thrown on the 06-07 models from this changed gasket design that starts with a vacuum leak? Was there any of these codes on yours before you changed the gaskets?
4. How are the other aluminum lines in the coolant system? Any signs of corrosion?
I feel your pain with poor workmanship. I see it all the time from my co workers, fabricators to contractors working on my house. The worst though is someone that tells of others poor workmanship and how they are "meticulous" come to find out they are just as bad if not worse.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #66
1. DIY flushing leaves ~1 gallon of old 50/50 red in in back of fire wall (heating system). I use distilled water and triple flush, which dilutes the remaining gallon. But still not 100% of red is out. Machine flush pushes all the fluid out of heating system tubing or at least 98%.
2. No other pitting. Pitting at leaks of front bypass, which you see I replaced.
A little pitting at water pump, (the area inside of where it seals to water inlet housing, not seal point), under FIPG overhang. Not bad, not leaking and not of concern as was inner portion, and water pump will be changed at next T-belt job anyway. IMHO this was possible because wrong FIPG 102 being used, or surface not being clean before applying FIPG 1282B (correct FIPG) or did allow 15 minutes cure time of FIPG before adding coolant. In that case mechanic must have been very fast installing everything before water inlet housing during T-belt job. Hey that would explain broken Fan shroud and various clip and missing nut's & bolts...a speed demon...
3. I think the intake gaskets are leaking on many of these VVTi, if not all, gunk would be sign of this IMHO. I base this on the only three VVTi intakes I've seen; gunk built-up on this 07s intake port area, one pictured in mud and one other VVTi (06) I've seen in person. I do feel this could be a contributing factory to the CAT (code) issue being seen.
The new gasket does have a different design (may just be new supplier), and measured thicker by ~2mm. The old gasket was as flexible as the new, but still may have shrunk IDK, need factory spec to know. Toyota part number did not change for 06 & 07.
I am sure it was leaking. But heat expansion may have stop leak at operating temp, IDK. I always replace leaky gaskets and seal regardless. But, I know of no case where Toyota engineers allowing cold engine oil leaks elsewhere, and Japan is very strict on leaks. Source would of oil would be PCV valve, and If oil gets out, it’s safe to assume air gets in (vacuum leak) intake manifold at head.
This 07 VVTi was not showing any CEL.
4. No other pitting or leaks. Why the one of two gaskets of front bypass starting leaking in first place IDK. I can say the only pitting occurred at leaks (gasket & hoses) and under loose FIPG. I suppose improper flush resulted in some aged (broken down) coolant to hang in these spots.
My 01LC; I pulled my hoses and water inlet to see how they looked in comparison. They are like new. I flush with red & distilled water every 30K or 2yr starting at 60K, PO had Dealer do prior.
This 07 had it's 1st flush at 30K, 2nd at 82K and 3rd at 152K miles. That is great but 1st wasn't due until 100K and 2nd at 150K provided SLL pink was used. At some point it was switched to red, which is fine. But then red's 30k / 2yr flush schedule must be followed. I've I'm still digging, attempting to contacting both PO's, to get more history on this rig.
I am sure I got to this one in time. But IMHO it just show the importance of proper flushing.
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I wish I was on top of things as much as you are. We talked about gunk under my intake I think in another thread. Personally I was thinking with a leak on those silicone gaskets I would have seen a lip of one sucked in a little, presumably by the front driver's side or the rear pass side, im not positive on #ing order. Those were dirtiest. But, I saw nothing. ...Those were my dirtiest spots.
I did think that the top of this engine was dirtier/ wetter than it should have been with the in take off.
Im going to take mine off again when I go after injectors coils and rail stuff at 200k.
That will give me a good 18k mile look see.
I did think that the top of this engine was dirtier/ wetter than it should have been with the in take off.
Im going to take mine off again when I go after injectors coils and rail stuff at 200k.
That will give me a good 18k mile look see.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #68
Yours was the picture I was referring to, from when we talked. This gunk build-up puzzled me as I'd not been seeing on pre VVTi, so I was looking closely for source. As I said; intake did sit for awhile with bolts loose. Next time I remove a factory installed gasket with same gunk on intake manifold, I'll pull off very quickly to make sure I see same results. But it the only source I could find on this one for oily gunk was gasket.
If approximately 1 gallon is in the heating system either in the cab or in the rear unit, do you think it would be possible to flush that out by disconnecting the hoses at the firewall or the T 's and flushing it backwards and forwards with distilled water?
What's your thoughts on leaving the pink in for 100k? Personally I think even though it is SLL I would flush probably at 60k.
An old time radiator repair shop by me recommended to use this and only this in the coolant system. I have not added it to the 100 but did use it on my tractor and work truck.(copper radiators green coolant) both get used very little.
What's your thoughts on leaving the pink in for 100k? Personally I think even though it is SLL I would flush probably at 60k.
An old time radiator repair shop by me recommended to use this and only this in the coolant system. I have not added it to the 100 but did use it on my tractor and work truck.(copper radiators green coolant) both get used very little.
2001LC
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- Thread starter
- #71
@jerryb
I find PCV last a very long time. As long as I can hear valve jiggle back and froth, and air only pass one way they're good. They usually just need a solvent bath, medium pressure water rinse and high pressure air drying.
IMHO using synthetic oil and kept fresh, helps reduce blow off. Also the intake is design to handle the oil. Not sure if the plastic VVTi have any catch for oil in them, but I've split the non VVTi aluminum intake manifolds and found what appears to be some sort of catch. Regardless the engine will burn if off. I kind of go back and forth on whether to fog with Sea Foam, but it does help clean out the intake manifold & head ports. The cleaner the ports the better it breathes, "IMO". Some guy's install a catch can, something I just never get around to. Beside a little oil dripping into the cylinder isn't all bad for start up I suppose.
Here's a non VVti intake split in half. Those pockets are what I was referring to as catches. I Fogged this one with SeaFoam, then drove 50 miles before breaking down.
I spoke with a Toyota Shop foreman on a number of issue today, one being machine flushes. He said they can't get 100% of old out and cringed when I said 98%.
So now you've got me thinking, perhaps we could just DIY. Be nice to have some kind of pump, to pump Distilled-water through heater lines. That's provided SLL pink comes in 100%, so in the end one gallon pink could be added to the 1 gallon D-water remaining in system. If only 50/50 SLL is available, It may be possible to blow D-water out with 10 or 20 PSi of compressed air through heater lines, without having a pump.
100K with SLL (pink) factory installed, 50K miles after that. 30K the first and second time if replacing LL (red) with SLL.
First let me say, I'm not big on any additives or chemical flush's. That said I do like BG products, like 44K in the gas tank. If old timer in radiator shop like the Gunk, well that's a pretty good endorsement I suppose. If I run across a coolant system that's really bad, I'll keep that in mind. But regular flushing's, D-water, and Toyota red coolant has worked really well for me, I've no experience with pink.
I find PCV last a very long time. As long as I can hear valve jiggle back and froth, and air only pass one way they're good. They usually just need a solvent bath, medium pressure water rinse and high pressure air drying.
IMHO using synthetic oil and kept fresh, helps reduce blow off. Also the intake is design to handle the oil. Not sure if the plastic VVTi have any catch for oil in them, but I've split the non VVTi aluminum intake manifolds and found what appears to be some sort of catch. Regardless the engine will burn if off. I kind of go back and forth on whether to fog with Sea Foam, but it does help clean out the intake manifold & head ports. The cleaner the ports the better it breathes, "IMO". Some guy's install a catch can, something I just never get around to. Beside a little oil dripping into the cylinder isn't all bad for start up I suppose.
Here's a non VVti intake split in half. Those pockets are what I was referring to as catches. I Fogged this one with SeaFoam, then drove 50 miles before breaking down.
I spoke with a Toyota Shop foreman on a number of issue today, one being machine flushes. He said they can't get 100% of old out and cringed when I said 98%.
So now you've got me thinking, perhaps we could just DIY. Be nice to have some kind of pump, to pump Distilled-water through heater lines. That's provided SLL pink comes in 100%, so in the end one gallon pink could be added to the 1 gallon D-water remaining in system. If only 50/50 SLL is available, It may be possible to blow D-water out with 10 or 20 PSi of compressed air through heater lines, without having a pump.
100K with SLL (pink) factory installed, 50K miles after that. 30K the first and second time if replacing LL (red) with SLL.
First let me say, I'm not big on any additives or chemical flush's. That said I do like BG products, like 44K in the gas tank. If old timer in radiator shop like the Gunk, well that's a pretty good endorsement I suppose. If I run across a coolant system that's really bad, I'll keep that in mind. But regular flushing's, D-water, and Toyota red coolant has worked really well for me, I've no experience with pink.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #72
Resealed the fuse box:
Replacement source, main fuse box lid Seal.
Finished up work on the rear stabilizer bushings and links.
Installed: fan shroud (new) & fan, hoses, coolant, clipped various wire housings in place, air box intake tube and started it up.
Fan Shroud's a PITA to snake in, and I should have covered the radiator fins with cardboard, but didn't scrap to much.
Put on jack stands, pulled wheels off and drained front differential in prep for new boots and wheel bearing service.
Here's conventional gear lube after 16K miles, from 07LC front diff:
Here's synthetic gear lube after 20K miles, from 01LC front diff:
BTW: Drain plug magnet didn't come out that clean but was normal.
Replacement source, main fuse box lid Seal.
Finished up work on the rear stabilizer bushings and links.
Installed: fan shroud (new) & fan, hoses, coolant, clipped various wire housings in place, air box intake tube and started it up.
Fan Shroud's a PITA to snake in, and I should have covered the radiator fins with cardboard, but didn't scrap to much.
Put on jack stands, pulled wheels off and drained front differential in prep for new boots and wheel bearing service.
Here's conventional gear lube after 16K miles, from 07LC front diff:
Here's synthetic gear lube after 20K miles, from 01LC front diff:
BTW: Drain plug magnet didn't come out that clean but was normal.
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sammybones
Study in Moppishness
Me too. I'm impressed.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #74
Your welcome & thank you.
Not as cool as an off road build thread, but I try to share with helpfully everyday stuff.
You may like this thread if you missed it earlier. I did it differently, with many links to threads on same rig.
LX470 to build or not to build...
I think the only way to know it is 100% is to do it yourself. As far as a pump I have used a small 12 transfer pump to pump water in other applications with success.
At my work we use a large compressor hooked into the irrigation system to remove the water before winter. I personally use a small compressor connected into my water pipes to remove all water in my summer home for winter.
I think you could easily attach a compressor into the system with a few connectors (quick coupler to valve to nipple to hose) to blow that excess out
At my work we use a large compressor hooked into the irrigation system to remove the water before winter. I personally use a small compressor connected into my water pipes to remove all water in my summer home for winter.
I think you could easily attach a compressor into the system with a few connectors (quick coupler to valve to nipple to hose) to blow that excess out
This is what I use. Not sure on your question but I believe all pink all is 50/50
Amazon.com: Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon: Automotive
Still using M1full synthetic for oil and lube's?
Amazon.com: Toyota Genuine Fluid 00272-SLLC2 Long Life Coolant - 1 Gallon: Automotive
Still using M1full synthetic for oil and lube's?
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2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #79
Pulled DS hub, knuckle & drive shaft last night. Toyota records indicate last wheel bearing service was ~90K miles ago.
Inspecting before disassemble, Snap ring gap was .43mm (FSM .20mm max) Some play between hub flange & axle teeth, about what I expected with mild N to D clunk.
Axle bushing & needle bearings appeared to have original factory grease.
Looks like synthetic wheel bearing grease was used last service.. NICE
All in all is best wheel bearings I've pulled apart in some time. It looks about as one would expect (with so many miles between service), when a decent job was done last service.
All in all is best wheel bearings I've pulled apart in some time. It looks about as one would expect (with so many miles between service), when a decent job was done last service.
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2001LC
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- Thread starter
- #80
I completed the front end work in 7 calendar days (6 days hands-on) just before weather turned cold (snow day). All in ALL I was pleased with outcome, but it took longer than I anticipated. I now realize I've never done boots, knuckle, axle hub and wheel bearings on both side at same time before. It was a big job! Two days (12 hr total) alone was just cleaning, inspecting & reconditioning. It's no wounder most shop don't clean or recondition, it's just to time consuming.
I ended up buying a parts cleaner with water based solvent. This worked great once I dialed it in, but took a day just to buy, make room for it and set up. I still use petroleum based solvent first, then the water based in parts cleaner, higher pressure water rinse, pressurize air dry and final a lite coat oil on bare metal to prevent rust.
Re-booting went well despite washing off some match-marks from one side (DS) during cleaning. Cleaning outboard CV of front drive shaft is a PITA. Having the parts washer really help here, and made final clear water rinse grease-less (non polluting) sweet.
Axle hub took some recondition because hammering with steal hammer, why these mechanics' can't use brass IDK. Hammer, file and wire brush did the job.
I ended up buying a parts cleaner with water based solvent. This worked great once I dialed it in, but took a day just to buy, make room for it and set up. I still use petroleum based solvent first, then the water based in parts cleaner, higher pressure water rinse, pressurize air dry and final a lite coat oil on bare metal to prevent rust.
Re-booting went well despite washing off some match-marks from one side (DS) during cleaning. Cleaning outboard CV of front drive shaft is a PITA. Having the parts washer really help here, and made final clear water rinse grease-less (non polluting) sweet.
Axle hub took some recondition because hammering with steal hammer, why these mechanics' can't use brass IDK. Hammer, file and wire brush did the job.
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