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Couple questions for you.
1. Why can you not get the last bit of old red out with your usual flush procedure?
2. While you had intake off did you check out the rear bypass gaskets or to see if there was pitting?
3. The new style intake gaskets that you linked with the other thread, do you believe that is why there are the codes thrown on the 06-07 models from this changed gasket design that starts with a vacuum leak? Was there any of these codes on yours before you changed the gaskets?
4. How are the other aluminum lines in the coolant system? Any signs of corrosion?
I feel your pain with poor workmanship. I see it all the time from my co workers, fabricators to contractors working on my house. The worst though is someone that tells of others poor workmanship and how they are "meticulous" come to find out they are just as bad if not worse.
Yours was the picture I was referring to, from when we talked. This gunk build-up puzzled me as I'd not been seeing on pre VVTi, so I was looking closely for source. As I said; intake did sit for awhile with bolts loose. Next time I remove a factory installed gasket with same gunk on intake manifold, I'll pull off very quickly to make sure I see same results. But it the only source I could find on this one for oily gunk was gasket.I wish I was on top of things as much as you are. We talked about gunk under my intake I think in another thread. Personally I was thinking with a leak on those silicone gaskets I would have seen a lip of one sucked in a little, presumably by the front driver's side or the rear pass side, im not positive on #ing order. Those were dirtiest. But, I saw nothing. ...Those were my dirtiest spots.
I did think that the top of this engine was dirtier/ wetter than it should have been with the in take off.
Im going to take mine off again when I go after injectors coils and rail stuff at 200k.
That will give me a good 18k mile look see.
If approximately 1 gallon is in the heating system either in the cab or in the rear unit, do you think it would be possible to flush that out by disconnecting the hoses at the firewall or the T 's and flushing it backwards and forwards with distilled water?
What's your thoughts on leaving the pink in for 100k? Personally I think even though it is SLL I would flush probably at 60k.
An old time radiator repair shop by me recommended to use this and only this in the coolant system. I have not added it to the 100 but did use it on my tractor and work truck.(copper radiators green coolant) both get used very little.
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Me too. I'm impressed.As always thanks for sharing all your valuable info. Great work.
I have decided the next 100 I buy will be one that you worked on!
Your welcome & thank you.Me too. I'm impressed.
Agree, and to know done right. Do you know if they sell Toyota SLL 100% or is it all 50/50?I think the only way to know it is 100% is to do it yourself. As far as a pump I have used a small 12 transfer pump to pump water in other applications with success.
At my work we use a large compressor hooked into the irrigation system to remove the water before winter. I personally use a small compressor connected into my water pipes to remove all water in my summer home for winter.
I think you could easily attach a compressor into the system with a few connectors (quick coupler to valve to nipple to hose) to blow that excess out