Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean!

[RND1]

Yep, at $29K it would be a still if not! Price was giveaway...

They're selling it for one of their customers on consignment who bought it in VA back in January. It's located in a wealthy suburb north of Boston where it will likely end up as the nanny's car and the new owner will never even look under the vehicle.

 

[Chris325i]

Thank you @abuck99 that mean a lot coming from you.

How about we use meticulous or attention to detail they ring, OCD stings.

I'm going to sell.

I'd love to keep it. Everyone says its the best looking they've ever seen with an amazing color. Pictures really don't do justice to it! But plan was to restore and sell, and it's the only new addition I can get ready before the cold of winter shuts me down for the season.

I've been use Lexol, but just order a bottle of 303 Aero Protectant form autogeek. So I'm waiting for it to get here before treating the rubber and plastic. I also have some Leatherique coming with order (i ran out), but will use Lexol if I can't catch a few sunny hot days for the Leatherique.

That what I said..Thank you!
Got it! WTS.

I love the 303 it's not greasy sticky or shiny just a nice matte finish like brand new trim

 

[2001LC]

I love the 303 it's not greasy sticky or shiny just a nice matte finish like brand new trim

Does 303 do a good job of conditioning? Also is it safe for paint?

 

[Chris325i]

Does 303 do a good job of conditioning? Also is it safe for paint?

It's safe for paint. It's not really a conditioner, it doesn't seem to soak in just more of a dressing or sealer.

 

[2001LC]

It's safe for paint. It's not really a conditioner, it doesn't seem to soak in just more of a dressing or sealer.

I've been using Lexol for years. It seem to condition just doesn't last as long as I'd like if vehicle not garage. In reading Lexol marketing literature it has a plasticizers .

While on the subject of cleaners, condition, UV protect; I've also used Lexol leather cleaner & conditioner for years. I started using Leatherique last year. The Leatherique seems do a good cleaning job if used on long hot sunny days. It easy to use, but ties up the rig for days as it soaks in. But it seems my leather is stiffer months after it's use. This is not something I noticed with Lexol products.

With Snowy the leather was amazingly soft to the touch, when I got it. It apparently (as it needed cleaning) had been sometime since PO had cleaned and conditioned. I asked what he used, but he didn't know (pay to have done)

So I'm on the hunt for product(s) that Clean, Condition & Protect which also last especially for Leather.

Any suggestions.... anyone?

 

[abuck99]

I've used Lexol cleaner and conditioner for several years. The Lexol cleaner is pretty good, but I've read people are getting good results from using a diluted mix of woolite cleaner which might be worth a try. Getting the soap agent/cleaner fully removed before applying the conditioner coat is really important to avoiding surface hardening. Also many of the leather conditioners are not designed for automotive painted leather seats; which is in essence what we have: a top coat (top coated, painted, pigmented) over leather. Choose a leather care product that is intended for "coated" leather.

I generally wipe down the interior leather with a damp clean towel monthly. This helps to keep the leather clean of oils and grime.

I found a supplier that has clear designations between its automotive leather care products and non- automotive leather care products. I haven't used them yet; I sent a few questions to them and waiting to hear back before I order. Anybody have experience with Leather World Tech products?

Auto Leather Care Guide

 

[MattThompson]

Wow I'm on a roll, my seventh 100 series in ~18 months. My girl friend name this one "The Black Knight" cool as it looks black at night.

Picked-up this very sweet 06LC Black Garnet Pearl with cream interior in SoCA Monday, took the long way home to Denver. I do love driving a clean LC cross country. My Only issues was I hated putting miles on this one. I started trip with 56,758 end with 58,488. Can you believe it's under 60K.

• Everything I tried worked as new.
• Body is a 10, as I've yet to find a dent or even a dimple.
• Paint is a 9, as it does have some minor scratch, buffing and a little touch up paint should handle nicely bring to 9.5 plus. (can't be 10 if I touched-up, that's paint after factory)
• Interior is a 9.5 plus, found some very minor scratches only I'd find. Carpet, seat leather, dash, steering wheel, head lining, etc.. all great condition.
• Undercarriage is a 10, the best I've seen.
• Windshield is Toyota and looks like factory install, first I've seen.
• Window tint is like new all the way around.
• Wheel are a 9 with a few scratches.

I've some question on front end in. That being I felt something in figure eight turns. But after driving 2K miles, I'm now thinking it just may be the over-sized knobby tires I'm felling. I'll swap out with some tires I'm use to see how they feel.

Here is an after picture, after having home for a week washing, clay baring, correcting compound & wax. It is so good looking WOW...
View attachment 1547731

Oil is clean even though convention has been used, indicated frequent oil changes.

It has some "D" vibration, which I reduce on the road with a new air filter. Look like factory air filter was still in, it was dirty. Also would run rough at times as I'd come to stop coming over passes, like when I drop into Tahoe NV for a day. New filter took care of that.

I was running at about 85 MPH best I could figure (tires not being stock size) getting 14.5 MPG SoCA to Reno, change air filter and disconnected battery for ~30 minutes while having lunch. MPG drop to 12.5 after new air filter install, for first tank. Then move up to 13.5 MPG second tank. Final tank pulling into Denver from SLC via Wyoming was 15.5 MPG. This was readings from NAV trip info. MPG was probably about 5% higher, as large tires seem to yield about 3 MPH lower than actual speed at 60 MPH (road side HWY speed radar read out). That put it at 16.27 MPG on final leg which was all high altitude and high speed, until I hit Denver traffic about 40 miles out. I did find MPG was a little different, actually little higher with most tanks, using hard numbers based on each tank calculating by hand.

Getting a little clunk at times coming to stop. Propeller shaft & spider lubing should take care of that. They looked a bit dry so I expected the clunk, which was very mild.

No D to N to R clunk, so hub flange and axle teeth must be great, as must front diff bushings and steering rack bushing.

No record of wheel bearings being done, so I may finally get my hand on a virgin wheel bearing servicing job.

I'll be pulling spark plugs and do a compression check as I baseline. Should be interesting to see reading on such a low mile rig. I'll check all vacuum lines while at it, don't expect new vacuum lines will be needed.

Interestingly Time Belt has been done at ~7 year, but well below 90K (That is rare indicating, over maintained).

On-board fuel injector cleaning has been done, sweet! I wanted to run a can of 44K through the gas tank while on trip, but I could not find in CA or NV NAPA or Advance Auto so I stuck with 91 OCT Chevron for top shelve cleaning power.

This is going to be and interesting restoration. It will be a contrast to the high mileage I normal do.

I couldn't wait to get started so I was in the rain today cleaning and using a synthetic clay bar. The cold weather and rain aided in clay bar. I used something (new to me) a synthetic clay that is used with car wash soap for lube. I'm impressed so far. I did plastic bag test before and was grainy, after one pass with syn clay plastic bag test was smooth.
View attachment 1543358 View attachment 1543359
Paint as I said is a 9, but looks like it will buff well, maybe to a 9.5. I'll cut with correcting compound and micro fiber pads on my DA buffer then wax. I'll come back with touch-up paint when I can get it if needed. Touch-up paint has been taking three week to come in, I'll order in the morning.
View attachment 1543361 After first cutting with Meguiars micro fiber DA correcting compound & cutting pad. I'll touch up then final cut & waxView attachment 1546541

This is arguable the cleanest rig I've ever seen, much less owned. I wish I could keep it and my girl friend really really wants this one, but I bought to sell. A plan is a plan and I need to get it out the door to make room for my 07 Unicorn with a blown engine I'm restoring going into winter. I need more garage space badly, had to get the 07 out it going to be very difficult to get back in when I'm done with the 06 and some work I been planning on my 01LX The King.

I love seeing your attention to detail, and hope to do a thorough reconditioning on my 99 and retire it from daily driver duty soon. I originally bought it to have an older cruiser I wouldn't worry about being rough with, but its too clean and rare.(also a unicorn truck) After looking at the windshield write up has me worried mine was done wrong last year..I suffer from a bit of OCD myself when it comes to this kind of thing and have a list of issues on my truck to address most would not even see..lol. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see further progress!

 

[2001LC]

I've used Lexol cleaner and conditioner for several years. The Lexol cleaner is pretty good, but I've read people are getting good results from using a diluted mix of woolite cleaner which might be worth a try. Getting the soap agent/cleaner fully removed before applying the conditioner coat is really important to avoiding surface hardening. Also many of the leather conditioners are not designed for automotive painted leather seats; which is in essence what we have: a top coat (top coated, painted, pigmented) over leather. Choose a leather care product that is intended for "coated" leather.

I generally wipe down the interior leather with a damp clean towel monthly. This helps to keep the leather clean of oils and grime.

I found a supplier that has clear designations between its automotive leather care products and non- automotive leather care products. I haven't used them yet; I sent a few questions to them and waiting to hear back before I order. Anybody have experience with Leather World Tech products?

Auto Leather Care Guide

So after reading some through some of the link you provided. It seems we have cleaning code "P" is that your take on it?


"Pigmented / Protected / Top Coated / Painted - Cleaning Code P
This is the most common leather type used in furniture, approximately 90% of the market. This is also the type of Leather that is used in most makes and models in the Auto Leather Industry. This leather has a uniform appearance and color. The leather has an intense color and a definite pattern (grain). You cannot see any natural leather markings through the top coatings, because pigmented leather has a Flexible Leather Paint coating that is applied to the surface. Your Leather is then sealed with a durable finish. Properly maintained, this finish will provide years of cleaning ability and durability.

Identifying characteristics: Uniform color and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops do not absorb and will not change the leather’s color."

I love seeing your attention to detail, and hope to do a thorough reconditioning on my 99 and retire it from daily driver duty soon. I originally bought it to have an older cruiser I wouldn't worry about being rough with, but its too clean and rare.(also a unicorn truck) After looking at the windshield write up has me worried mine was done wrong last year..I suffer from a bit of OCD myself when it comes to this kind of thing and have a list of issues on my truck to address most would not even see..lol. Keep up the good work and I can't wait to see further progress!

Thank you, "detail" is very important to me.

I learn a little more with each project. This board help me sharpen my skills. Sometime, while working on something or a processes I may not be using the best practice, the board will set me straight.

The windshield is and issues in the 100 series. If any paint bubbling seen, even the tiniest spec if found around windshield you can bet rust is starting to take hold under molding/windshield. The sooner you address the less damage to deal with.

I took mine to a body shop and they said it's not bad enough to deal with,,,wrong. Although rust did not perforate metal "yet" it did leave some pitting once ground out.

Obviously the older the rig the more chance of rust. But it seems this is less of and issue after 2005. I say this not due to age, which obviously plays a roll, but Toyota may have made some adjustment to the manufacturing process. Toyota settled a "rust" class action that only 2005 and up can make a claim from what I've heard. I've notice bare metal chips in paint on the 2006 & 2007 models, don't seem to develop rust as fast as older models. This makes me think Toyota legal team navigated the cut off date carefully.

The argument of why we have windshield rust issue is two sided. One side says it windshield installers, the other states it a design issue. To date, I've only seen in windshield that have been replaced. It's not to say factory installs don't have any issue. It just what I am seeing, is, installer nicks paint during removing of urethane with a razor blade. The body has some bump out along roof line under windshield molding (6 in all) and tight spaces along sides and roof line that are hard not to nick. Any nick not treated, no matter how small, will start the rusting process.

Newer vehicles have been design more open and flat under windshield and around molding. They also have less molding. This make windshield removal easier and less like to be nicked. So design was changed. So do we have a design issue, yes in this respect.

The another design issue has to due with three things: The metal, paint and design. Does the 100 series lend itself to rust around/under windshield organically, perhaps. If those here in mud that have factory windshield report issues with rust or not we would then have data points to gain a better understanding.

You'll see in The King's thread I just started, I'm coating with POR-15. Bye Bye to The King I've not much experience with paint, but POR claims it will not chip or nick. This should stop any future damage from the average install job. It also in encapsulates the metal in a water poor barrier, which stop risk future rust is the thinking.

It has also been said we've a problem in the pinch weld, where the body parts join under the windshield and in the rain gutter. This I did not see any sign of in The King. I've also pulled halve a dozen inside cabin windshield side moldings, and did not see any sign of this.

 

[2001LC]

It seem I've factory UV tint on front door drivers window.

I was under the impression Toyota never put tint in front side windows.

I notice while driving north in the afternoon through a desert, the sun didn't feel hot with window up, but was scorching with it down. Yet the glass is easy to see out of in day light and not bad at night either. The tint is in excellent condition

I've not seen this UV before on a 100 series, much lees up front. Nice stuff.

 

[abuck99]

It seem I've factory UV tint on front door drivers window.

I was under the impression Toyota never put tint in front side windows.

I notice while driving north in the afternoon through a desert, the sun didn't feel hot with window up, but was scorching with it down. Yet the glass is easy to see out of in day light and not bad at night either. The tint is in excellent condition

I've not seen this UV before on a 100 series, much lees up front. Nice stuff. View attachment 1552127

I've got the same glass on my front driver & pass windows on my 05. I did put 30% ceramic tint on the windows anyway.

So after reading some through some of the link you provided. It seems we have cleaning code "P" is that your take on it?


"Pigmented / Protected / Top Coated / Painted - Cleaning Code P
This is the most common leather type used in furniture, approximately 90% of the market. This is also the type of Leather that is used in most makes and models in the Auto Leather Industry. This leather has a uniform appearance and color. The leather has an intense color and a definite pattern (grain). You cannot see any natural leather markings through the top coatings, because pigmented leather has a Flexible Leather Paint coating that is applied to the surface. Your Leather is then sealed with a durable finish. Properly maintained, this finish will provide years of cleaning ability and durability.

Identifying characteristics: Uniform color and grain patterns; will not scratch easily; water drops do not absorb and will not change the leather’s color

I would agree the code. The problem with their website is that none of the products indicate what code they are with out clicking on each individual product page to see. I got frustrated, sent them an email to have them send me of list of "P" coded products and never heard from them.

I've got two Lexol bottles nearly full that I need to go through before I buy anything else anyway.

 

[2001LC]

I've got the same glass on my front driver & pass windows on my 05. I did put 30% ceramic tint on the windows anyway.

**

I just never noticed but they all have the Toyota UV. The Black Knight also has the addition tint as well. Interesting the PS Toyota UV stick is reversed so can be read from inside.

 

[2001LC]

So The King gone, long live The King.

So I'm back to working on The Black Knight. The paint has been more work than I first thought it would be. After cutting (rubbing out) I could see what is really going on. Seems the PO used a very glossy Wax/Glaze which hides true condition of paint, rather than bringing out beauty. Possible one with a color added. I did ask asked PO about wax was used, he siad: "just car wash spray wax & sealer", and "had a friend detail, about two years earlier". Not like any car wash wax I've seen and friend would have surely informed him two years earlier which know way that two year old wax would be on today! Like to see that car wash.

At right angle I can see it needs work. Some of what you see is dust others are contaminants in clear. This was before current cuts and chemicals below.

Anyhow I needed some advise on best course of action. So I called Detailing shop out of SoCA. After a few dials, I was very blessed to find Courtland Courtland’s Auto Detail | Car Detailing | Glendale, CA This guys has been detailing for 30 years in SoCA. He's really giving me some helpful advise on dealing with contaminants in paint. Stuff I just don't see in Colorado. I've not yet tried one of his suggested which is Wire Wheel cleaner in spray bottle, as I've yet to find one. I did see Mequiar's has a Chrome Wheel cleaner pro strength that mentions wire hub cap in it's uses. This stuff does stated keep off clear and or paint, so testing is needed. I have tried the 85 cut he suggested and getting good results.

With my first order of the day being to protecting body metal which paint does, secondary is beauty. So I've armed up with some more detailing supplies. Some giving some good results to task at hand. My biggest gains are from 105 cut, POR's AP120 Metal Prep, Rubbing Alcohol and Meguiars 85 Diamond cut. The 105 and then 85 are more aggressive than the Micro fiber cutting compound. In fact 85 is made for a rotary buffer with wool pad. I've only a 5" DA Porter cables, so bit of experimenting was need. I found using a heavy cut micro fiber pad which has almost no backing worked best. The standard micro fiber cut pad with foam back just separated with the grab of the heavy cuts. The tech at Finishes Master (Auto paint supply store) recommending using a slow speed with the 85 Diamond cut compound on my DA. But that did nothing with my DA. Dialing up speed to what I normal use (4,800 RPM) to cut and started getting results.

I could have saved time by going with a 3M sanding kit. They run in the 3000 to 5000 grit range and are pricey, and I hear do wonders. They only take little more paint then a cutting compound off. I may still give it a try.

Very hard to see what I'm dealing with. Takes just the right light then my 30X microscope to see the microscopic particles.

Two lager chips are just that chip down to primer, that just need touch up paint.

Yellow points to chips. Green arrows point to specs of contaminants in clear coat surface. It's believed these are lime or calcium. The AP120 Metal Prep followed by high pressure water cleaned out larger chips and scratches. The microscopic specs seems too small for the chemical I have to penetrate, but I'll try again now that I've cut with the 85. Some you see are just dust on paint.

 

[FMC80]

The Black Knight is coming along beautifully. Someone is going to benefit greatly from your obsession for perfection. I'm taken aback by your level of detail and patience!

 

[Rolocado]

Toyota should hire you for paint inspection or development or somehow put you to use for your incredible eye

 

[Dwight S]

May be time to upgrade to a Flex 3401 forced rotation, random orbit polisher....

 

[2001LC]

The Black Knight is coming along beautifully. Someone is going to benefit greatly from your obsession for perfection. I'm taken aback by your level of detail and patience!

Thank you for the kind words. Although I'd not use "obsession", it's a passion...LOL

Really, I just looked at each one of my rigs as though I plan on keeping for life as I work on them.

Toyota should hire you for paint inspection or development or somehow put you to use for your incredible eye

Thank you as well. Someone needs to hire as I'm going broke working on these rigs, but I enjoy it.

May be time to upgrade to a Flex 3401 forced rotation, random orbit polisher....

Oh I have my eye on the flex, also looking at Griots. Courtland of Courtland's Auto Detailing tells me the Griots are well made, have a good balance and last. The right tools can really save time. My 5" Porter is ok, but when I really want to get a heavy cut, I drop down to a 3" pads so I can delivery more power per inch. The Flex would give more power with any size pad in it's range. I've also not yet tried foam or wool pads, but plan to.

I'm still learning. With more experienced eye, I would have sanded with 3m's trizact first.

 

[2001LC]

I've been working the paint a bit more as weather permits, getting cold in the garage.

Found about 4 chips or scratches in paint with mild rust which was only visible with my 30x microscope. In effort to keep grinding area a small as possible I found a few new micro bits stones (pictured) and diamond needle points (not pictured) even smaller than I've been using. I keep look at work area with 30X then grind a little and repeating until I get a good clean line between factory primer and body metal.

After grinding only chips that I had to, I cleaned hood with AP120 metal prep and high pressure water. This did and excellent job cleaning out the compound and other contaminates from chips. It also etches the bare metal and remove the very mildest oxidation from exposed metal surfaces. I used some WD40 in bare metal chip to stop any new rusty, until I had time to paint. Cleaning out WD40 before painting of course.

I've now started using a few paint brushes out of a kit of ~30 I bought for $3 at a craft store. The fine tip give nice follow control. Using cut Q-tip paper stick is my most used. I've use tooth pick now and then, but follow doesn't work as well as a cut Q-tip for me. I cut papaer stick of Q-tip to either shape point or flat as needed.

I've been using a micro fiber rag soaked with a little Lacquer or Reducer with credit card or tip of a Q-tip cotton or paper to level and or clean excess paint. Something I've been experimenting with opposed to sanding. I avoid sanding if at all possible. I'd rather the touch up be more noticeable then cut through the clear paint with sanding. Touch up is for protecting body, not a substitute for new paint job IMHO.

Sometimes I reduce the paint, sometimes I let thicken depending on flow I'm looking for. The cotton end of Q-tip can be used to soak up a little excess paint as needed, but only if paint is very thin (reduced).

I always start with self-etching primer on bare metal. Even if i see just a microscope chip through factory primer to metal, it gets SE primer.

If i mess up I just wipe out paint with lacquer, or Reducer is it has set-up longer. Both must be use with care (don't puddle or let stand on paint) or factory clear can be damaged.

 

[2001LC]

I finally started doing some post purchase inspecting and mechanical lite work.

First off is replacing bleeder caps, they all needs this. These $2 parts can save major expenses down the road. I now try and get these replaced before even washing undercarriage.

 

[2001LC]

Put in can of 44K as always

Removed the skid plate and test the foam for water permeability. It failed as usual as water enter cell of foam, new OEM will repels water. This will cause skid plate to rust out so a remove. Toyota tech supports states it's a vibration dampener. Is this necessary- Skid plate foam pad?
But I think engineers intended as a dame. A dame for air, dust, snow and water. I've been leavening foam off but not a bad Idea to replace if you drive in rain or dusty condition. Drive belt slips if wet, but wet condition and foam holds water promoting rust of skid plate. "Six of one half a dozen of the other," as they say.

Also pulled the #2 shield and engine cover. I'm looking at undercarriage covers for signs of leaks. The little bit of water stain and white trial is from me cleaning battery with baking soda to neutralize acid. So it was spotless!

Remove moving all the cover for inspecting undercarriage end to end for leaks, damage, broken or missing parts is a must.

 

[2001LC]

Typically I'll rinse the undercarriage before crawling under. But The Black Knight is so clean it wasn't necessary. After pulling cover I started inspecting with camera in hand. Looking and filming any area of concern. This is before I supper wash and de-grease. I need to find oil spots first, then follow up after cleaning to pin point leaks if any.

I also did some flushing of fluids. History records show they've been flushed, but still I like to baseline and see for myself the conditions of fluids. So far I'm very pleased with what I'm finding. Little things like drain & fill plugs at proper torque and with new washer, job done right. It these little clues that speak volumes about a particular mechanic's job or area he worked.

Transfer case lube was darkening as one would expect at about 13K miles.

As always let sit for 5 to 15 min. after lube starts running out, then add some more until runs out.