Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean!

[2001LC]

Front differential was clear as one would expect to see with 13K miles on it. Sweet!

As always let sit for 5 to 15 min. after lube starts running out, then add some more until runs out again.

 

[abuck99]

That exhaust system looks practically new. Nice clean looking underneath there.

 

[cwmoser]

When I drained the Transfer Case and filled with Mobile-1, for a few days I noted a few drops of oil on the garage floor. At first thought it was the fill or drain plug washer leaking.
Replaced both plugs with new, still leaks.
Determined later from the FSM that its an overfill issue.
Few days later oil leaks on Garage Floor stopped.

 

[Rolocado]

I finally started doing some post purchase inspecting and mechanical lite work.

First off is replacing bleeder caps, they all needs this. These $2 parts can save major expenses down the road. I now try and get these replaced before even washing undercarriage.
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Part # for bleeder caps?

 

[2001LC]

That exhaust system looks practically new. Nice clean looking underneath there.

It really does look clean, and I've not even cleaned yet. Most don't even looked like good after cleaning

When I drained the Transfer Case and filled with Mobile-1, for a few days I noted a few drops of oil on the garage floor. At first thought it was the fill or drain plug washer leaking.
Replaced both plugs with new, still leaks.
Determined later from the FSM that its an overfill issue.
Few days later oil leaks on Garage Floor stopped.

The FSM shows within 0 to 5mm of bottom of fill plug hole. I've temporarily used old gasket in fill plug, then driven and replaced gasket (washer) after re checked. I've found level good each time, by allowing to sit for at least 15 min between toppings.

As long as it on level ground and allowed to drain out after second topping, it would be near impossible to over fill when using a hand pump like seen in picture.

Also notice I use a piece of cardboard between drain plug and #3 shield. This cardboard helps keep gear lube out of a pocket in #3 shield. That pocket is typically where I find drips/drops on garage floor coming from after a transfer case flush.

Tip; keep lube in a warm spot or heat in the sun so it pours/pumps easier.

 

[2001LC]

Part # for bleeder caps?

LH brake bleeders, RH AHC bleeders

 

[2001LC]

Lubed the very dry propeller shafts. Notice very little old grease built up in area from slinging after lubing, which should have been done at least 11 time by 56K miles.
You can see just a little residue of old grease along transmission pan bolts.

A little trick I've mention before is to wipe grease on seal of slide yoke as I pump/pulse slide yoke with pressure from grease gun. I lube spiders first so that I've some old/new grease handy for wiping on seal. I videoed this (sorry for angles, done in the blind) so you can see what I mean by pulse. I went a little fast building a little more pressure than I like, just to get grease passing seal for video in shorter period of time.

You'll see just a little grease pass seal at the end. It was 80% fresh grease as it pass the seal, which is clue yoke was very dry.
Turn you volume down, my POS compressor is running and it is loud.

Had it not flowed pass seal after reasonable time, I would've stopped and wait until next greasing/lubing of slide yoke (max 5K miles interval, daily in sand or deep water slit crossings).

Propeller shafts slide yoke should be lubed with vehicle in neutral position (weight on wheels). With AHC it is so nice to just raise to "H" to give easy access when crawling under the rig. So when done lubing, I pull grease zerk from slide yoke and lower to "L", pushing out excess grease that would otherwise create excess pressure in propeller shaft yoke, pushing on transfer case and differential.
Lubing propeller shaft Risky (AKA Drive Shaft)
Too Much Grease in Drive Shaft?
After pulling zerk then lowering vehicle (AHC), I got a pile of excess grease out.

This did a nice job, as usual, of eliminating drive-line clunk. The OFFICIAL clunk/thunk driveshaft thread

One thing I've not seen before, was my grease zerk leaking at ball just a tad. I pulled and cleaned. I'll now watch to see If leak returns, if so I'll replace.

 

[2001LC]

While weather held I did a little more touch up.

In-between touch painting I've been getting other things done. I'm now at about where I'd normal after having a restore project for two weeks, at week 6..

I manged get all fluids flush that I'll be doing at this time. Now by washing I'll save at least one undercarriage washing to removing oils & lube I leave behind in flushing process.

Power steering fluid came out in good condition, brown but not very dirty. Toyota History Records show; It had a flush at 28K. Also Steering Rack replaced at 45K miles on 5/11/15 so I presume new fluid at that time.
FWIW: Steering Flush & Cleaning

After solvent and water cleaning I tried this POR-15 degreaser diluted.

After drying all moisture out I installed, flushed system and filled.

 

[2001LC]

Flushed the AHC.

 

[Rolocado]

Typically I'll rinse the undercarriage before crawling under. But The Black Knight is so clean it wasn't necessary. After pulling cover I started inspecting with camera in hand. Looking and filming any area of concern. This is before I supper wash and de-grease. I need to find oil spots first, then follow up after cleaning to pin point leaks if any.

I also did some flushing of fluids. History records show they've been flushed, but still I like to baseline and see for myself the conditions of fluids. So far I'm very pleased with what I'm finding. Little things like drain & fill plugs at proper torque and with new washer, job done right. It these little clues that speak volumes about a particular mechanic's job or area he worked.

Transfer case lube was darkening as one would expect at about 13K miles.
View attachment 1563603
View attachment 1563609
View attachment 1563608
View attachment 1563605
As always let sit for 5 to 15 min. after lube starts running out, then add some more until runs out.
View attachment 1563604

Do you use 75-90 M1 for both diffs and the transfer case? For some reason they suggest 85-90 but Ive never known why

 

[2001LC]

Do you use 75-90 M1 for both diffs and the transfer case? For some reason they suggest 85-90 but Ive never known why

Yes, keeps it simple (KISS).

FSM is 75W-90 (see above) and is referring to convention lubes in recommending weights. Using a synthetics and you can widen the range, but the M1 75W-90 is stocked.

I find transfer case starts turning dark around 20K miles with normal use, front differential around 25K. So I schedule both at 25K. I hold off on rear differential flush until 35K.

Note: This is normal use, with severe factory is 15K for all IIRC.

 

[2001LC]

I've found leaks on both PS & DS front drive shaft boots, which is so unusual at this mileage. Even more so since Dealer did both side rebooting then DS again. DS now needs reboot again (a third time) as I found a pin hole. PS side is still under review but looks like just needs clamp tightening. Hey, I final get to use my tool that you got me into @abuck99.

DS:

PS

 

[Rolocado]

Yes, keeps it simple (KISS).

FSM is 75W-90 (see above) and is referring to convention lubes in recommending weights. Using a synthetics and you can widen the range, but the M1 75W-90 is stocked.

I find transfer case starts turning dark around 20K miles with normal use, front differential around 25K. So I schedule both at 25K. I hold off on rear differential flush until 35K.

Note: This is normal use, with severe factory is 15K for all IIRC.

Hmm I didn't know that about synthetic vs conventional.

Post pics when you do the boots. One of my clamps is coming loose too.

 

[abuck99]

That yellow band clamp looks mangled a little. If dealer did that upon install, and maybe nicked the boot at the same time or driver hit something in the road. If the boot is only leaking at that tiny pin hole- Might consider roughing it up and sealing it with some RTV or 5200 and see how it holds. That inside clamp may only require a tightening tweak.

 

[2001LC]

Hmm I didn't know that about synthetic vs conventional.

Post pics when you do the boots. One of my clamps is coming loose too.

Will do!

Here the tools I've used to tighten and the new one I'll be using to tighten clamp. They only work clamp with the crimp nub sticking out you see on DS at leak.

This one is my least favorite as it puts angle in crimp.

That yellow band clamp looks mangled a little. If dealer did that upon install, and maybe nicked the boot at the same time or driver hit something in the road. If the boot is only leaking at that tiny pin hole- Might consider roughing it up and sealing it with some RTV or 5200 and see how it holds. That inside clamp may only require a tightening tweak.

Man, we're on the same page on all points. But not sure how well RTV will stand the test of time. Whats the 5200?

 

[abuck99]

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200

Comes in black too

 

[WickedPickle]

I'm new to the forum and just wanted to say @2001LC your work has helped me baseline my first LC a 2006 with 111k. I replaced my bearings at 105k (purchased LC with 103k) and just checked them yesterday and all is well thanks to your posts. It's fun learning from you guys and I appreciate your willingness to share @abuck, @PADDO, and others as well.

Thanks guys.

-Jason

 

[2001LC]

That yellow band clamp looks mangled a little. If dealer did that upon install, and maybe nicked the boot at the same time or driver hit something in the road. If the boot is only leaking at that tiny pin hole- Might consider roughing it up and sealing it with some RTV or 5200 and see how it holds. That inside clamp may only require a tightening tweak.

Looked at the DS outer large boot again yesterday. It looks like something got stuck between LCA & outer end of front drive shaft, most likely a piece of wood. Just back of this area a body plug partial knocked in (out of position), that I was easily able to reset.
Paint being rubbed off without scoring metal indicates wood:

3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200

Comes in black too

I do trust 3M products, so I'll consider using here. The pin hole is not in a flex point of boot, so this may be worth a try.

Body plug just rear of front wheel DS, was knocked in clipped on one side.. I pulled back into place to reset.

I'm new to the forum and just wanted to say @2001LC your work has helped me baseline my first LC a 2006 with 111k. I replaced my bearings at 105k (purchased LC with 103k) and just checked them yesterday and all is well thanks to your posts. It's fun learning from you guys and I appreciate your willingness to share @abuck, @PADDO, and others as well.

Thanks guys.

-Jason

Your more than welcome! It's what "mud" is all about; sharing & paying forward.

***
Post pics when you do the boots. One of my clamps is coming loose too.

Look thought link in The Red Baron #80 I did a reboot on both sides, which has additional link to Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help! where you'll see re booting.

 

[2001LC]

I did get a chance to use the Boot Clamp OTC 4722 tool @abuck99, it work very well. Thanks for the heads up on it.
Gap of clamp looked over 6mm.

Braced tool on knuckle allowed me to use both hands to hold socket & 3/8" breaker bar on nut of tool.

Took gap down, but did not close. I need to get a wire feeler gauge to accurately measure gap on these boot claps, but looks like ~3mm. I'll keep and eye on and we'll see if leak stopped, or if I need to tighten gap a little more.

 

[2001LC]

Every rig I find something new to fix, even this one was no exception. Something that someone worked on and did work improperly.

Here I found locks of knuckle stopper bolts on each side had been left loose. I assume this was done to stop oversize tires from rubbing fender wells during turns. No big deal, just tighten to lock right...WRONG. The bolts either walked off, were turned out too far or both. This left only a few threads holding in, and hitting knuckle at angle that put pressure on threads damaging them.

The O'Rieilly kit had 1.5mm thread file I used, but not the 14MM tap & die thread repair size I needed.

So I needed a 14x1.5mm thread repair tap & die. The rental or for sale kits at local store only had up to 12mm. So I bought some more toys (tools) for this job:

DS took about 1 hour to first repair bolt, then repair LCA receptor nut. Seem like a long time, but I took great care to carefully make sure tap went in perfectly aligned. Did not want to damage LCA and need hile-coil or new LCA