Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean!

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This is a nice truck, will be interesting to see where this thread goes. I offered seller full asking of $25k, but it was already "conditionally sold". Such is life chasing low mileage trucks, no doubt.
 
Yes no problem, I moved into Electrics after working on cars, and have now decided it was time to start up on my own. I was running large projects with my last employer so have built up a lot of contacts over the years. These large electrical contrators don't like having a large labour force anymore due to the recession and tend to sub contract out parts of there larger projects. Which is where I step in, I will take portions of there work and provide labour and take over the general day to day running of these area's.
Very cool. Based I what I've seen here in mud, I'm sure you will excel in your start-up, Good luck!

This is a nice truck, will be interesting to see where this thread goes. I offered seller full asking of $25k, but it was already "conditionally sold". Such is life chasing low mileage trucks, no doubt.
Sorry, like in a hot real-estate market sometimes it pays to offer above asking.
 
I did plastic bag test before and was grainy, after one pass with syn clay plastic bag test was smooth.

I know I don't know a lot, but this is totally foreign to me... Can you help me understand what a plastic bag test is and how relates to clay bar?

Thank you!
 
Sorry, like in a hot real-estate market sometimes it pays to offer above asking.

Meh, I think $25k was a fair price for both the end-user buyer and seller. IMHO, if you paid over asking with the intent to flip the truck, you are rapidly approaching 200 Series pricing by the time you give it the special treatment and try to recoup the costs for your time and effort in doing so. But hey, good luck on making a few bucks - as the saying goes, you only need one buyer!
 
I know I don't know a lot, but this is totally foreign to me... Can you help me understand what a plastic bag test is and how relates to clay bar?

Thank you!
Put your fingers in a plastic bag (sandwich bag) and glide fingers tips over the paint. Bumpy or rough feel means clay bar use is a good idea. Fine clay bar can be used without scratching surface of paint, provided a good lube is used. Use of medium to aggressive clay and paint will need cutting with compound then waxing or sealing.
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I'm also using some aggressive clay on top side.
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Meh, I think $25k was a fair price for both the end-user buyer and seller. IMHO, if you paid over asking with the intent to flip the truck, you are rapidly approaching 200 Series pricing by the time you give it the special treatment and try to recoup the costs for your time and effort in doing so. But hey, good luck on making a few bucks - as the saying goes, you only need one buyer!
Yep for those that want a 200, $25 to 30K for first gen with ~200K sure. Me, I'm just into 100 series, I've even got my eye on another as of today. It a sickness for sure! But I do feel I add value to my restore project, and to this broad I hope.

Who knows, The Black Knight may just stick around awhile, he is a very sweet ride. I've three rigs now and still want more, but I've a problem with shop room, I need more..... LOL So something got to go....:hmm:
 
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Thanks for your contribution to MUD. As with all your projects I' m interested in your progress. It will be interesting to see how a relatively untouched one compares to higher mileage. My bet is there will be relatively little difference in a well maintained one 200k and under to a 60k rig.

I know you are into 100 series but would you ever consider doing another vehicle in the future say a double cab first gen tundra (highly desireable in my area) or other Toyotas that may be rare? I think your knowledge could be desireable in other forums or sections of MUD as well.

Looking forward to that engine teardown and or swap.
 
Thanks for your contribution to MUD. As with all your projects I' m interested in your progress. It will be interesting to see how a relatively untouched one compares to higher mileage. My bet is there will be relatively little difference in a well maintained one 200k and under to a 60k rig.

I know you are into 100 series but would you ever consider doing another vehicle in the future say a double cab first gen tundra (highly desireable in my area) or other Toyotas that may be rare? I think your knowledge could be desireable in other forums or sections of MUD as well.

Looking forward to that engine tear-down and or swap.

Well, I do hope I contribute, thank you for that.

I'm interested in comparison too.

Hard to say, as a well maintained 100 can mean different things to different people. To me it's parts in serviceable condition utile they need replacing. To someone else it's fluids, lubing and cleaning three of the most import things we do.

But if there is one thing I've learned over last 14 years even more over 18 mo's., is even Land Cruiser's parts' get old. One example is a simple one but important one, brake & AHC bleeder rubber caps. Age is a big factory on them as with all rubber.

For now I'm still tooling up and learning the 100 series, so no not at this time on Tundra's. But I'll not say never, as one time it was GTO's that I loved, another it was 240Z it was my need for speed & handling days.

Speaking of engine tear-down. When I did my GTO 400 CC V-8 blue-print, it was winter. My Mom (May She rest in peace) let my tear it down on the living room floor. Can you believe that, She was so cool about it! I wonder if my GF will allow the same, NOT.

Anyhow for now I'm just taking advantage of the mild weather and cutting the paint. The 50's are a good temp for the compounds, it's easier to work. Hoods been tougher than I though it would be, but it is starting to pop. This hood took 6 hrs with my DA buffer, 4hrs just with my extra cut disk, and it will need more work.
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Lord you are OCD, but we admire your attention to detail.
You make me look neglectful toward my LX470 with 38K miles.
Never waxed it yet, hand washed it a couple times but have run it through car wash a few times.
Still looks great but not as good as the hood in the above photo.
 
Meh, I think $25k was a fair price for both the end-user buyer and seller. IMHO, if you paid over asking with the intent to flip the truck, you are rapidly approaching 200 Series pricing by the time you give it the special treatment and try to recoup the costs for your time and effort in doing so. But hey, good luck on making a few bucks - as the saying goes, you only need one buyer!



Somebody is salty :P

Have fun with the project OP, i don't think you have to do much to it. Will follow your progress, hope my truck was this clean to start off with, my clear coat is all gone and i need to decide if i want to wrap it or repaint it.
 
Lord you are OCD, but we admire your attention to detail.
You make me look neglectful toward my LX470 with 38K miles.
Never waxed it yet, hand washed it a couple times but have run it through car wash a few times.
Still looks great but not as good as the hood in the above photo.
OCD thingy again, what is that Oh Could do More.o_O

Really, when driving your rig away from a restoration shop or any shop that has done a very good job for you. Do you say man they have OCD or do you think WOW what A good job I'll use then again!

After working the paint on WhiteLady Body trim polishing & correcting compounds I gain a new prospective. Cutting and polishing really made it pop. With help & inspiration from members like @landylover21 and @Manhattan just to name a few, I learn the ropes. I've over $1K of detailing supplies & tools in the shop today.

Cleaning is a big part of my inspect processes. Even when doing the mechanics I spend at least a 1/3 of my time cleaning.

Washing, Clay & Cutting with a correcting compound help me see the paint and pulls out pollutants. Pollutants destroyed the clean coat, then work into base coat. Paint has two propose; 1) to protect the body metal from rust. 2) To beautify and personalize our rigs. When I'm done the paint won't be perfect, but it will protected.

I've come to appreciate each ones unique patina and scares as I perfect the paint. I don't think that's something a person with OCD could appreciate. My number one goal is protection. This one has some spot damage to clear, that's it's unique patina. I'll protect from future damage by this process, as will keeping clean and waxed once under control.

Even The King has fade/thin clear coat on front bumper from not properly protecting over the years. With Snowy the paint was very nice, cutting only took 8 hour, but clean paint and carpet was a bear which really surprised me. Cutting Snowy did reveal 140 rock chip, clean them out, so I could see which ones of them needed de-rusting (micro grinding out). Snowy really looked clean when I brought it home. But deep cleaning revealed a lot. I spend over 45 days (200 hours) perfecting, protecting & detailing that one.

Somebody is salty :p

Have fun with the project OP, i don't think you have to do much to it. Will follow your progress, hope my truck was this clean to start off with, my clear coat is all gone and i need to decide if i want to wrap it or repaint it.
He is a bit salty, but understandably so. It can be frustrating hunting for the right rig. I see so many buy what they think is clean, only to find they need to pump $10k or more into shop repairs into it. I did see one low mile 06LC this morning in MA for $29K, but I suspect it's pried low due to rust.

Hopefully I'll not have to much to do, as time is short with winter coming. But all I've seen even supper clean, have there own needs, so well see.

If base coat is good you could wet sand then have clear re-shot. But most do just wrap, or wrap hood with sun reflecting block.
 
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OCD as in Wow. Exceptional work. I wish I had your skill and knowledge about restoring the beauty of paint.
 
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OCD as in Wow. Exceptional work. I wish I had your skill and knowledge about restoring the beauty of paint.
I took no offence to the OCD comment, just playing with you.. Thank you for your kind words!
 
Lovely find and looks a ripper goodluck.I'm telling you if did your type of work in the UAE were I live you would never run out of jobs and it would be a successful business they love there 4wd drives with 100 series and LX very popular.Haven't followed you with a LX restoration hopefully soon.


You mentioned it had a D vibration from air filter what is that ? .
 
OCD as in Wow. Exceptional work. I wish I had your skill and knowledge about restoring the beauty of paint.

Time, patience, Autogeek forum and money.... DA buffer, pads and product will get you started down that road.
 
Anyhow for now I'm just taking advantage of the mild weather and cutting the paint. The 50's are a good temp for the compounds, it's easier to work. Hoods been tougher than I though it would be, but it is starting to pop. This hood took 6 hrs with my DA buffer, 4hrs just with my extra cut disk, and it will need more work.
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Looks really good. I love the color. Probably answered somewhere before... what DA, pads and products are you using?
 
Lovely find and looks a ripper goodluck.I'm telling you if did your type of work in the UAE were I live you would never run out of jobs and it would be a successful business they love there 4wd drives with 100 series and LX very popular.Haven't followed you with a LX restoration hopefully soon.


You mentioned it had a D vibration from air filter what is that ? .
Thank you Danny, I take that as a great compliment.

This hobby I began after pining for a specific 07 silver Unicorn, that got away from me, it now found me...:)
Now it is becoming sort of a business here in Denver. If I only had more room and a lift, it would be a business.

I started with LX470 last year. If you look at Whitlady a Golden Pearl 01 LX470 in my signature, you'll see links in her first post (OP), that I'm sure you'll enjoy.


Time, patience, Autogeek forum and money.... DA buffer, pads and product will get you started down that road.
Along with help from the great members of this forum is how I got started. In fact I just got a 25% cupon from Autogeek today!

Looks really good. I love the color. Probably answered somewhere before... what DA, pads and products are you using?
Thank you my friend, I think it does too!

I started with a 5" Porter Cable I picked up off CL. I match it with Meguia's micro fiber pads & compounds.

They are ok, and according to Meguiar's are more aggressive than foam pads. But they're hard to find and not available locally even in a city Denver's size.

If I where to re-tool I'd go with 6" and just a foam pad system, cheaper and readily available locally. Porter Cable is great, but there are some high end DA buffer that I believe could speed up the process of cutting.


I would like to find some more 3" cut pads, they've been discontinued. They work well for small spot work and tight areas. I can also give a lot of pressure with them on stain glass.
Final cleaning 153.webp
Rock chips 066.webp

Here is some other stuff:
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Final cleaning 158.webp
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you posted a picture a while ago with a burr bit, I shivered then. lol. Still do. It's awesome though.
 
A Meguiars man... Good stuff.
I've got an original PC 7424, from around 2000. Swapped out the backing plate to a 5" and Lake Country thin pads from Autogeek back a couple of years ago. Still didn't have the power I was looking for. Went to a local detailing supplier that was opening a training facility for an Open House. Registered to win a Griot's Garage GG6, and ended up winning it. It's got considerable more power than my PC. So far, I've left the 6" plate and have purchased several 6.5" GG pads. Haven't had the time to devote to my LC, but I can tell the GG6 will get the job done for me. I'm not going for perfection since my truck is relegated to sitting outside and shows numerous paint chips and clearcoat failure on the bumpers, but I do like to see reflections in the hood. After winning the GG6, I ended up purchasing a GG3 for those tight areas. I think I'll be happy with that combo for a while.

One of the instructors at the training facility suggested sticking with foam pads. In his opinion, he felt the microfiber loaded up too quickly and you needed to clean or swap them out more often.

Good luck with it.
I'm sure the next owner (girlfriend???) will be appreciative of the hard work.
 
Yep for those that want a 200, $25 to 30K for first gen with ~200K sure. Me, I'm just into 100 series, I've even got my eye on another as of today. It a sickness for sure! But I do feel I add value to my restore project, and to this broad I hope.

The 200 series is not that expensive. $30k can get you a one owner, dealer maintained, no accident, no rust, 120k miles 2010 LX570 in my area.
 

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