If I exposed that much bare metal then I would consider using 2k epoxy primer, car restoration specialists are using this stuff to seal the body panels as it sticks like nothing else to bare metal and is very durable plus it is waterproof. I used this as my first coat on my underside after cleaning back with a wire wheel, it sets rock hard in a couple of days. Not a paint expert so you would have to do some research to see if it is suitable for your application. It is also available in a spray can, but wear a very good mask if doing it yourself, it is poisonous to breathe in.
Bye Bye to The King: Windshield rust repair ++ (1 Viewer)
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2001LC
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Thanks @Julian Stead I can always count on you for good ideas/advise.
In this case I did see some pitting with rust, so I'm going to acid treat. The auto paint supply store informed I can't use epoxy if I acid etch. Addition they said epoxy will not stop rust. They went on to say that POR-15 encases, which will stop rust. POR-15 claims it will not chip, so should protect leaning edge. The bad part is it must be top coated for UV protection. I do see POR-15 does have a UV protected product and some bare metal product.
Edited 12/5/17: Thought this a good place to add this;
I'll cover metal with POR-15 after cleaning and treating as recommend by POR-15. I'll then Top coat leading edge that may be exposed to UV rays with some black auto motive paint I have.
I'll go with the Sika 207 primer as final coat for urethane adhesion under windshield. It's a urethane product that promotes good urethane adhesion.
My pictures taking has been very helpful in finding every spec of rust. I worked on de-rusting three afternoons, as each evening I'd find more specs while reviewing my pictures. This could have been done in as little as 2 to 3 hours. But as usually in my ultra slow pace whenever doing a "new to me job", I took about 25 hours just de-rusting and prepping to paint. Then final chemical cleaning and painting.
Next time I do a under windshield de-rusting and protection job. I'll be more aggressive, ripping with a rust/paint wheel remove and wire brush after triple layer taping areas that need protecting.
Just as a precaution, I dumped a little baking soda at bottoms of A pillars to neutralize any acid that may wash down as I clean acid off with wet (water) micro fiber rage.
I could really see acid at work before cleaning it off. Using this acid rather than the POR- metal prep (acid). May have been a critical error. 8 years later, POR-15 is just pulling off. Meaning it did not bond as it should have.
In this case I did see some pitting with rust, so I'm going to acid treat. The auto paint supply store informed I can't use epoxy if I acid etch. Addition they said epoxy will not stop rust. They went on to say that POR-15 encases, which will stop rust. POR-15 claims it will not chip, so should protect leaning edge. The bad part is it must be top coated for UV protection. I do see POR-15 does have a UV protected product and some bare metal product.
Edited 12/5/17: Thought this a good place to add this;
I'll cover metal with POR-15 after cleaning and treating as recommend by POR-15. I'll then Top coat leading edge that may be exposed to UV rays with some black auto motive paint I have.
I'll go with the Sika 207 primer as final coat for urethane adhesion under windshield. It's a urethane product that promotes good urethane adhesion.
My pictures taking has been very helpful in finding every spec of rust. I worked on de-rusting three afternoons, as each evening I'd find more specs while reviewing my pictures. This could have been done in as little as 2 to 3 hours. But as usually in my ultra slow pace whenever doing a "new to me job", I took about 25 hours just de-rusting and prepping to paint. Then final chemical cleaning and painting.
Next time I do a under windshield de-rusting and protection job. I'll be more aggressive, ripping with a rust/paint wheel remove and wire brush after triple layer taping areas that need protecting.
Just as a precaution, I dumped a little baking soda at bottoms of A pillars to neutralize any acid that may wash down as I clean acid off with wet (water) micro fiber rage.
I could really see acid at work before cleaning it off. Using this acid rather than the POR- metal prep (acid). May have been a critical error. 8 years later, POR-15 is just pulling off. Meaning it did not bond as it should have.
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2001LC
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Metal then lost it's shin and all pits looked cleaned out. So I put on my first coat of paint within minutes of drying with micro fiber rag then compressed air. I felt it import to move quickly with painting at this point, so I was ready in advance.
Jumping ahead a little to show final POR-15 up leading edge. Black paint will be visible but should blend in with black wealth strip of windshield.
Jumping ahead a little to show final POR-15 up leading edge. Black paint will be visible but should blend in with black wealth strip of windshield.
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2001LC
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Sorry for jumping around, but I want to show some final before and after taping and painting.
I know even leaving one tiny spec of bare metal unpainted and rust will return, so I spent extra time carefully painting.
I ended up remove all urethane to just above rivet holes on sides and up to just above leading edge of roof line and sanding paint that remained to scratch for better new paint adhesion.
I gave all surfaces three coats of POR-15 up to top of rivet holes and just above roof line curve.
I pulled tape while POR-15 still tacky/wet as was concerned it would not come off clean when POR set up hard.
I had to keep coming back to touch up some small area in lips of overlapping metal until each area was 100 % cover with three coats.
I'll used self etching primer on bare metal above roof line to prep for touch up paint. It may not look perfect but will do it's job "Protect". I could take to body shop and have paint roof. But cost, potential time delays and risk associated with painter having windshield out with a winter storm coming Monday really doesn't justify worrying about a small spot of touch up. Touch up is more about protection than beauty.
I'll top coating to protect from UV rays any POR-15 that will be left exposed after windshield and side molding install.
I know even leaving one tiny spec of bare metal unpainted and rust will return, so I spent extra time carefully painting.
I ended up remove all urethane to just above rivet holes on sides and up to just above leading edge of roof line and sanding paint that remained to scratch for better new paint adhesion.
I gave all surfaces three coats of POR-15 up to top of rivet holes and just above roof line curve.
I pulled tape while POR-15 still tacky/wet as was concerned it would not come off clean when POR set up hard.
I had to keep coming back to touch up some small area in lips of overlapping metal until each area was 100 % cover with three coats.
I'll used self etching primer on bare metal above roof line to prep for touch up paint. It may not look perfect but will do it's job "Protect". I could take to body shop and have paint roof. But cost, potential time delays and risk associated with painter having windshield out with a winter storm coming Monday really doesn't justify worrying about a small spot of touch up. Touch up is more about protection than beauty.
I'll top coating to protect from UV rays any POR-15 that will be left exposed after windshield and side molding install.
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2001LC
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I"ll R & R the fan Clutch first chance I get. But first I'm going to run up to Dealer and pick up some windshield molding rivets just in case Safelite doesn't have my OEM's as I requested. They always have the over-sized rivets but rarely have the OEM's. I'll get the fasteners for the lower molding & weather strip (under the hood) if in stock as well, betting they're not on the truck either.
Only the best for The King. If it turns out the old Fan Clutch is okay, I'll just keep as spare.
Only the best for The King. If it turns out the old Fan Clutch is okay, I'll just keep as spare.
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Well, I just spoke to Safelite and due to a scheduling mix-up, they are coming to me today...Sweet. The star are aligned.They also, according to shop, have a wide applicator of 207 paint on the truck. So I'll have them give me one more coat of paint just to be sure!
I may go ahead and R & R the fan Clutch while I wait this morning. But first I'm going to run up to Dealer and pick up some windshield molding rivets just in case they don't have my OEM's as I requested on the Truck. They always have the over-sized rivets but rarely have the OEM's. I'll get the fasteners for the lower molding & weather strip (under the hood) if in stock as well, betting they're not on the truck either.
Only the best for The King. If it turns out the old Fan Clutch is okay, I'll just keep as spare.
View attachment 1549887 View attachment 1549888
Great write up on the windshield R&R. The new owner should be happy with this result.
Would you mind posting all the necessary Toyota parts and quantities to have on hand for a windshield install: rivets, moldings, etc.
2001LC
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Sure @abuck99 .
I'll post some picture later, that will aid in removing the interior molding, lower molding and weather strip under the hood along with windshield wipers.
But for now here are some key point and parts & stuff:
I'll use some old picture of various installs, as I'm not done yet with The King.
Which year and whether it equipped with luggage rack will determine part number for side molding, so no point with me posting that number. I will say on Snowy I had the wrong molding, it was for model without luggage rack, so it was longer. This actually worked out nice, as molding fit perfect under rack which made sure it will always hold down.
The side molding, if carefully removed, can often be reused. The key is the metal skeleton of the molding, if skeleton sprung it usually means replacing side molding. Installer just grab lower part of molding after drilling out rivets and pull out of rain gutter (RG) hard.............. This almost always will spring the metal Shelton in molding.
I work molding out of RG with the a plastic scraper tool pulling a genitally up on molding as I do. I use this same tool to aid in removing urethane. I bought the red scarper at HF, actual a kit that works nicely. The wheel I got from Finish-Master an auto body paint store
The rivets for side molding and clips of weather strip under the hood are the same for all years from what I've seen. I use a pro grade 3M 1/2" two side tape. Old tape and any urethane needs to be removed first. The mating surface must be clean and smooth to get good adhesion. I've not used 3M adhesion promoter but I'm told it really increases holding power greatly.
In Snowy I did post up riveting around post # 249 also stuff around post #86 Scored a 06 LC (untouched Jewell restoration)
The trick when installing the molding is to peel back just a corner of the two side tape backing, to use as a pull tab later. Then lay molding in place and put all your rivets in, but do not set rivets yet. This aligns the molding perfectly. Once you comfortable everything is aligned pull the tape backing tab until backing is off, press molding down hard into the RG to get a good adhesion of tape. Once this is down, set rivets. The big mistake every installer I've seen makes, is they just tack down molding in RG, then find holes don't align. So they try forcing to align or drill new holes, very bad practice.
Riveting is risky as great care must be take or shock will damage glass. I use corrugated cardboard to absorb shock and a very slim rivet gun. I press in hard, so that molding is tight against "A" pillar as I set the rivets. I have taken into Safelite at times, to let them set rivets. Reason is If they break the glass they'll replace it, if I break it, well they're not obligated to but may.
More to follow
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2001LC
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Here is the proper clips for the molding & weather seal under the hood.
The lower molding is held down with these clips above. The heads of the clip fits in holes (stretched over) on underside of rubber weather strip. Once all clips remove we have two difficult clips (on each side IIRC). These get broken all the time. The trick is to use a thin plastic body tool and release the clips.
Installer don't remove inside molding generally, I do.
The lower molding is held down with these clips above. The heads of the clip fits in holes (stretched over) on underside of rubber weather strip. Once all clips remove we have two difficult clips (on each side IIRC). These get broken all the time. The trick is to use a thin plastic body tool and release the clips.
Installer don't remove inside molding generally, I do.
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2001LC
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I managed to do some mechanical work in-between painting more POR-15 around windshield.
Installed a new fan clutch. To be honest I'm not sure old was bad, if it was it was just starting to go bad. I could hear something in area and noticed as I shut down engine the fan made noise as it spun-down (free wheeling) to a stop. Fan bracket felt & sounded ok. My biggest concern being bearings of Timing belt pulley or water pump is where noise may be coming from. But after replacing fan clutch I no longer hear noise that concerned me.
I also took a peak at timing belt and weep hole and all looked ok, with minor scoring on backside of belt I suppose from dust.
Additionally I put back on the Stock wheels & tires.
I kept painting on POR-15 until all these corners seams had three good coats covering any exposed metal. For some reason these corner seams spots took repeated painting to cover. It may be something to do with factory seam sealer IDK. But they did final become encased.
Work stops as temp drop below freezing, for next few days...winter is coming!
Installed a new fan clutch. To be honest I'm not sure old was bad, if it was it was just starting to go bad. I could hear something in area and noticed as I shut down engine the fan made noise as it spun-down (free wheeling) to a stop. Fan bracket felt & sounded ok. My biggest concern being bearings of Timing belt pulley or water pump is where noise may be coming from. But after replacing fan clutch I no longer hear noise that concerned me.
I also took a peak at timing belt and weep hole and all looked ok, with minor scoring on backside of belt I suppose from dust.
Additionally I put back on the Stock wheels & tires.
I kept painting on POR-15 until all these corners seams had three good coats covering any exposed metal. For some reason these corner seams spots took repeated painting to cover. It may be something to do with factory seam sealer IDK. But they did final become encased.
Work stops as temp drop below freezing, for next few days...winter is coming!
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2001LC
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Going over my spreed sheet logs, I see it's been 7 years since I last flushed out the 10 yr old factory brake fluid, with Gunk high boil. So I flushed with some Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 & 4 today.
Interesting the factory fluid came out looking like new from end to end (even calipers), after 10 yrs / 130K miles. But the Gunk looked funky after 7 yrs. Don't know if we can get anything even close to factory. Factory fill is amazing stuff that can only be import within vehicle brake system into USA.
I started at rear DS just to make easy, using a spring loaded shower curtain pole between seat and peddle (no helper method). This way I only need to turn on key and bleed as booster pump does the work.
Don't know why it came out green for first pint on each caliper bleed. But I'm reducing interval to 3yr 30K for next flush.
Tossed fist pint and flush 3/4 qt from same rear DS.
Tossed 3/4 qt and flush a other pint color looking better.
I kept a close eye on reservoir. Once near bottom but not empty, I turn key off and pumped brake peddle 40 times. This empties booster into reservoir. I then added new brake fluid to min line. I then turn key to on, went to DS rear again and drain down reservoir to very low but not empty again. Emptied booster and filled again to min, turn on key and repeat once more draining at rear. This is a double flush of reservoir and booster.
Then went to front with helper to pump peddle. Dump out first pint of flush which was green again then fluid stared running clear.
Move around to PS front then PS rear. I finished up pulling a little more from DS rear. All ran clear using total of about 2 1/2 qts. I'll take on dirty road and activate ABS a few times to flush out ABS valves.
Interesting the factory fluid came out looking like new from end to end (even calipers), after 10 yrs / 130K miles. But the Gunk looked funky after 7 yrs. Don't know if we can get anything even close to factory. Factory fill is amazing stuff that can only be import within vehicle brake system into USA.
I started at rear DS just to make easy, using a spring loaded shower curtain pole between seat and peddle (no helper method). This way I only need to turn on key and bleed as booster pump does the work.
Don't know why it came out green for first pint on each caliper bleed. But I'm reducing interval to 3yr 30K for next flush.
Tossed fist pint and flush 3/4 qt from same rear DS.
Tossed 3/4 qt and flush a other pint color looking better.
I kept a close eye on reservoir. Once near bottom but not empty, I turn key off and pumped brake peddle 40 times. This empties booster into reservoir. I then added new brake fluid to min line. I then turn key to on, went to DS rear again and drain down reservoir to very low but not empty again. Emptied booster and filled again to min, turn on key and repeat once more draining at rear. This is a double flush of reservoir and booster.
Then went to front with helper to pump peddle. Dump out first pint of flush which was green again then fluid stared running clear.
Move around to PS front then PS rear. I finished up pulling a little more from DS rear. All ran clear using total of about 2 1/2 qts. I'll take on dirty road and activate ABS a few times to flush out ABS valves.
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2001LC
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It did warm just enough in garage to get a little primer on. It was important to get on today as I've limited time to put on multiple layers of top coat. I also need to top coat the POR-15 that will be exposed to UV rays. So weather needs to cooperate this week.
Acid at work, making sure no micro specks of rust remain and etching bare metal.
Then painted on some primer. First coat was a bit uneven, so I sand after a few hours and put on second coat.This will be the largest area I've every attempted to touch up. May not look great but should do it job protecting. Will call it a 20 footer.... I'll give first and possible second top coat tomorrow.
Acid at work, making sure no micro specks of rust remain and etching bare metal.
Then painted on some primer. First coat was a bit uneven, so I sand after a few hours and put on second coat.This will be the largest area I've every attempted to touch up. May not look great but should do it job protecting. Will call it a 20 footer.... I'll give first and possible second top coat tomorrow.
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sammybones
Study in Moppishness
Looking good Paul.
2001LC
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After using Toyota touch up paint color 1D2 on the spot in OP, I painted on two coats of black automotive paint, along a coat of clear along top leading edge. If time would have allowed I would have lightly sanded black, cut, and top with clear again. But if paint not allowed to curry for more time then I have, it could lift out. So I'll just leave a little rough, makes look more like molding then paint which is what I'm going for.
I then drove up to Safelite (Fun without a windshield) for install of glass only, as I like installing molding myself. The rivets are they only part of job that I'm a little uncomfortable with.
I made sure they pull the windshield up to give a good tight gap. I notice one side low, which I brought to their attention and they corrected. Correcting that left one side with some urethane partially blocking the gap between "A" pillar and windshield. So I ask they get out with a popsicle stick, which they did. This gave a nice clean canal for water to flow down unobstructed. To leave in will block organic's that retain moisture and acid, that we don't want.
I then drove up to Safelite (Fun without a windshield) for install of glass only, as I like installing molding myself. The rivets are they only part of job that I'm a little uncomfortable with.
I made sure they pull the windshield up to give a good tight gap. I notice one side low, which I brought to their attention and they corrected. Correcting that left one side with some urethane partially blocking the gap between "A" pillar and windshield. So I ask they get out with a popsicle stick, which they did. This gave a nice clean canal for water to flow down unobstructed. To leave in will block organic's that retain moisture and acid, that we don't want.
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2001LC
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I did have two extra holes on each side from a bad install years ago. When I found it back then, I had them do a reinstall of molding at that time. They used a a black stick product to plug holes, butyl I believe. It work so well I ask saftlite if they had something like it.They gave some with a foam core. I was able to cut away small amounts of the butyl and plug the holes again. I then cover with tape so it will not stick to side moldings when I install them.
If old none factory holes aren't cover we get wind noise and water entry, so its a must do.
If old none factory holes aren't cover we get wind noise and water entry, so its a must do.
2001LC
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Had issue with factory size rivets holding in molding. Apparently at some point an installer drill-out the holes to a larger size. So I'm thinking, I'll just wait until Monday and go up to Safelite when they open, and get some over-sized rivets to finish up.
Monday I get call from Arron "@Riverrunner " informing me the Auto Transport is ready to pick-up today. I'm surprised, it was going to be on time, as other I used was 5 days late. I was concerned I'd not be ready in time, as I was A VA doctors appointment (sometimes hours of waiting) and still had to get rivets.
After my appointment, I headed to Safelite for the over-sized rivets. As luck would have they didn't have any of the rivets I needed. So I head (couldn't get on phone) to another Safelite 15 miles away that mgr. said keeps a good supply of stock. While on the way I needed a back-up for my back-up with only hours to go before pick-up. So I called a supply house and my Toyota parts guy to see if they had something that would work. My parts guy had some possibles fits, that I need to come see. Second Safelite did have, I think he said was for Toyota Camry. I also stop in a grabbed what my Toyota parts guy had found just to see for future reference, as it was on the way home.
Here are the rivets:
OEM Toyota for land Cruiser stock size
Safelite possible used for Camry. Trimmed to fit side molding.
Toyota parts guy found for me.
Comparison of just the over-sized. One's with part # is longer.
Monday I get call from Arron "@Riverrunner " informing me the Auto Transport is ready to pick-up today. I'm surprised, it was going to be on time, as other I used was 5 days late. I was concerned I'd not be ready in time, as I was A VA doctors appointment (sometimes hours of waiting) and still had to get rivets.
After my appointment, I headed to Safelite for the over-sized rivets. As luck would have they didn't have any of the rivets I needed. So I head (couldn't get on phone) to another Safelite 15 miles away that mgr. said keeps a good supply of stock. While on the way I needed a back-up for my back-up with only hours to go before pick-up. So I called a supply house and my Toyota parts guy to see if they had something that would work. My parts guy had some possibles fits, that I need to come see. Second Safelite did have, I think he said was for Toyota Camry. I also stop in a grabbed what my Toyota parts guy had found just to see for future reference, as it was on the way home.
Here are the rivets:
OEM Toyota for land Cruiser stock size
Safelite possible used for Camry. Trimmed to fit side molding.
Toyota parts guy found for me.
Comparison of just the over-sized. One's with part # is longer.
2001LC
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In early post/picture I should how to set alignment of side molding, then pulling tab to set molding tape in rain gutter.
Corrugated cardboard to reduce shock of rivet setting. 50 year old rivet gun, only one I have that fit in the narrow gap.
After setting rivets, it was time for final molding strip that cover rivets. L on top pointed to center of vehicle.
I find easiest to put top (L ) in first, then work in bottom (closes to glass)
Fingers work well as does a smooth tool to aid installing rivet cover.
Corrugated cardboard to reduce shock of rivet setting. 50 year old rivet gun, only one I have that fit in the narrow gap.
After setting rivets, it was time for final molding strip that cover rivets. L on top pointed to center of vehicle.
I find easiest to put top (L ) in first, then work in bottom (closes to glass)
Fingers work well as does a smooth tool to aid installing rivet cover.
Riverrunner
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I creep on your threads from time-to-time to pretend that I have your attention to detail. Unfortunately for my 100 series, I do not. Thanks for making the hand-off with the driver easy as ever. I know that the buyer will be very pleased with your craftsmanship.
2001LC
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I've no time left to do any other work, but I did find one thing worth mentioning while reviewing pictures. I found some sign of corrosion on a body ground coming off the battery. It doesn't look like much but worth keeping in mind. Be good idea to add to wish list "The Big Three Electrical Upgrade". I don't see this as e urgent, but one for the future.
I posted below in "The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade
While on a flight to LA from Denver to buy The Black Knight (yes I name them) last week with my girl friend, we got stuck in the very last row. She took window seat, while I the aisle thinking/hopping no one would take the center. Well, a guy 6'4" did, that couldn't get his knee to fit in, so I gave him my Knee space. We got to talking gear-head stuff the whole flight. He into diesel Mercedes and me into 100 series (what else). I gave you the above story, so you know where info comes from!
He told me in aircraft they have a tool that used to clean/grind under the ground/negative connection(s) on the air frame. They then add a dab of sealant to spot before bolting back on the the ground lead. They finish by cover assemble (Air frame, ground lead & bolt) with the sealant.
He said he's does same procedure on his car's. Cleans paint off from under leads on grounds and seals. He's helped friends do the same, which cleared up electrical issues they had. He said the paint between lead & body metal increases resistance.
I asked "what is this sealant", he gave me a the name of this special aircraft sealant, but said I did not need it, that I could just use silicone sealant. That as bolt tightens, sealant squeeze out making a good contact and a perfect seal around the lead end.
He went on to say; good idea too check resistance of cable (off the vehicle), comparing to new cable. That if I see corrosion near lead, you can bet it's into/around wire strands and lead. This will increase resistance and must be replaced.
Hope this is good info, I'm going to try it!
I posted below in "The Big Three" Electrical Upgrade
While on a flight to LA from Denver to buy The Black Knight (yes I name them) last week with my girl friend, we got stuck in the very last row. She took window seat, while I the aisle thinking/hopping no one would take the center. Well, a guy 6'4" did, that couldn't get his knee to fit in, so I gave him my Knee space. We got to talking gear-head stuff the whole flight. He into diesel Mercedes and me into 100 series (what else). I gave you the above story, so you know where info comes from!
He told me in aircraft they have a tool that used to clean/grind under the ground/negative connection(s) on the air frame. They then add a dab of sealant to spot before bolting back on the the ground lead. They finish by cover assemble (Air frame, ground lead & bolt) with the sealant.
He said he's does same procedure on his car's. Cleans paint off from under leads on grounds and seals. He's helped friends do the same, which cleared up electrical issues they had. He said the paint between lead & body metal increases resistance.
I asked "what is this sealant", he gave me a the name of this special aircraft sealant, but said I did not need it, that I could just use silicone sealant. That as bolt tightens, sealant squeeze out making a good contact and a perfect seal around the lead end.
He went on to say; good idea too check resistance of cable (off the vehicle), comparing to new cable. That if I see corrosion near lead, you can bet it's into/around wire strands and lead. This will increase resistance and must be replaced.
Hope this is good info, I'm going to try it!
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