... but they are so ugly.
Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean!
- Thread starter 2001LC
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... but they are so ugly.
Same thing was said for other series. It takes time. Thing will change when you own one.
2001LC
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- #43
Sweet winning a Griot's, you're a lucky man!
I'd like one of the GG or a Flex would be even sweeter. But for now I'm in need of other tools like engine hoist and two engine stand some toque sockets and more. I just order ~$200 in supplies yesterday from Autogeek. The sale was extend to today. Just type in FLASH25 at check out.
I picked up a mequiers 32os bottle of 105 correcting compound for $22.50, local HB list for $34. I'm going to try using it with my mirco extra cut pad, as the DA mirco cut compound is to weak for anything but very mild scratches. I'm not all that happy with the micro fiber system, but pads are easy to clean, which is done after each two foot square area set of buffing 4 to 6 passes.
I had correcting pads falling apart after just one land cruiser cutting. They said they (Meguiar's) had a problem and sent more pad free, but still they do work me hard. Our clear coat is hard and stands up well to micro fiber system, but I think we can be more aggressive when needed.
I'll need to keep under covers
when done perfect paint, so my GF doesn't see or your right it will be her's.....LOLI've finish cutting for now. I'll come back with a little touch up paint when it gets in (on order) and then cut some more to soften a bit. The top side took three set of 4 to 6 passes on roof and 7 sets on hood. It was a PITA. That is why I've ordered the 105 correcting compound, it should save me time in the future. Meguiars recommends 2-3 moderate passes followed by 2-3 light passes.
WOW it is the best paint I've ever buffed out, it really popped. I can't wait to see after I wax....
Sounds about right, if looking for a 08-10 200, but I would think with more miles than 120K. At least I've not seen in that price range for low miles, but I don't look either.
Even 200 have needs, and are more expensive then 100 to work on I've no doubt!
We see in mud every day those that have bought high mileage thinking "just baseline it". Believe me, they take more than that to get under control. But once under control, it like turning back the clock to low mileage, they then just need regular PM for the most part.
I said just the same as you before I started this hobby, but 200 is not a 100. I now know what it takes in time and parts to bring a 100 series back to near showroom ready. I've no idea what would take on the 200. With 100 series as we go up in years the complexity increases, so it is with all series of Land Cruisers since the beginning of Toyota. More complexity more parts & labor more cost.
On price well... I saw this one in a local mud members garage that was a 40 series (IIRC) with a diesel 4 cylinder he picked up for north of $40K and it had rust. New it sold for much less outside USA. It sits next to a 03LC built that's worth at least $30 IMHO.
It all relative to desire in the end!
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder isn't it! We know beauty when we see it, don't we. It's a 100 series....
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2001LC
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Along with the new synthetic clay I use old school in spots as I worked the paint.
You can see the difference just after one set with my DA, correcting pad & compound on roof:
Lacquer thinner is valuable in detailing, but must be used sparingly so's not to damage surface. A trial of contaminant coming from mirror that washing nor first clay removed:
I still have some ghost in the hood that need a little deeper cut. I hit again with the 105 correcting compound once I've touched up any chip I find in body paint with touch up paint as needed.
I'll not try to completely get out these ghost, that will happen in subsequent buffing's over the years. I've found it's good to work body paint and leather over the years, not all at once. Working to hard at one time can be damaging. But I have or will get all contaminates out.
This was after about 3rd set with cutting compound. The DA micro fiber correcting compound is very mild so takes many hard pass to get anywhere. Ghost has since softened, but I've only this earlier picture.
You can see the difference just after one set with my DA, correcting pad & compound on roof:
Lacquer thinner is valuable in detailing, but must be used sparingly so's not to damage surface. A trial of contaminant coming from mirror that washing nor first clay removed:
I still have some ghost in the hood that need a little deeper cut. I hit again with the 105 correcting compound once I've touched up any chip I find in body paint with touch up paint as needed.
I'll not try to completely get out these ghost, that will happen in subsequent buffing's over the years. I've found it's good to work body paint and leather over the years, not all at once. Working to hard at one time can be damaging. But I have or will get all contaminates out.
This was after about 3rd set with cutting compound. The DA micro fiber correcting compound is very mild so takes many hard pass to get anywhere. Ghost has since softened, but I've only this earlier picture.
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2001LC
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- #45
Sorry I didn't answer your question earlier. "D" vibration is when we come to stop with foot on brake with automatic transmission in drive. We feel and/or hear a vibration. It can be many different things that can make the vibration sound, but one main cause of the vibration. It's from the engine not running at peak performance. We usually see idle a little low at this time also.
I give a minor tune up annually just before winter after our gas station have the winter fuel blend in.
Tune:
Disconnect battery for 20 minute while cleaning MAF sensor, throttle body and inspecting for vacuum leaks (bad hoses, PCV grommet in 98-02 ect..). I then clean battery post & clamp and grease them. Very important to grease them, do not foprget.
Disconnecting battery for 20 min is key here, it resets the ECM!
I've not used any of these tools on The Black Knight and may not need to by the looks of it.
If I do:
I only use that one bit for very tight spots. I use a stone most of the time. I run my air or electric tool very - very slow. I just barley touch the surface making only micro cuts as i go. I use a microscope to see into my work (paint chip). This is when I have rust in a chip. Today I'll be going over with de waxer in any spot or chip I see to clean out wax or compound. If I find a rock chip in paint with rust I'll de-rust with the least aggressive tool to start. I keep looking at work area with a microscope to see if any rust remains and keep working with micro tool until gone. Rust will travel under paint, so this is where microscope is needed the most, to see around/inside chip edges for rust. I keep grinding until edge(s) is/are clean. I've had a 1mm chip end up a 30mm large repair chasing rust under paint. It all depends on how long chip has been in paint and left untreaded. I then chemically treat & paint with self etching primer.
I also have this glass pen. It works great but is very slow. I once spent 8 hours on a chip near top of windshield some years ago. It is when I started looking for tools to speed up the job. Whitelady had 50 chips with rust spot to work, Snowy had 90. 8 hours a chip would be nuts.
A chip that has rust not only needs grinding out, it then needs chemical treating (all chip to metal), then painting. It is a long processes.
Here is just one size stone I use. Again very very slow turning or spinning of the bit. I use such low air pressure I have to spin by hand to start. If I apply too much pressure on body with stone, tool will stop turning.
I've a 3M spot pen (glass medium) that works great, just to slow when working, 5, 10, 50 or 100 chip. I'm so glad I'll not need these tools for The Black Knight as paint has very few chip in it, and I've yet to find one to bare metal.
Here you can see case to my hand held one eyed microscope & 3M spot pen:
Working a spot on the King a few years ago with 3M spot pen
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2001LC
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I waxed all but the hood yesterday, which I'll be working some more to clear up better. I going to auto paint supply first to get some stuff to finish and waiting on my autogeek order to arrive.
For now work will stop on The Black Knight. I'm bringing the King into the garage to pull windshield and inspect for rust.
For now work will stop on The Black Knight. I'm bringing the King into the garage to pull windshield and inspect for rust.
Your attention to detail is phenomenal! If I were shopping for a 100- I'd buy one of your resto's. I'm pretty confident with your mechanical ability, and also that you leave nothing unchecked. Your OCD for doing things right is someone else's benefit.
The fact that it's got less than 60k miles and in such good shape really makes this a special find. Question is will you keep it or sell it?
The fact that it's got less than 60k miles and in such good shape really makes this a special find. Question is will you keep it or sell it?
What product do you use to clean / restore / protect the exterior black plastic trim parts? E.g. the trim below windows, trim on roof, trim below windshield.
Wow. That thing looks spectacular! YGM, btw.
2001LC
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- #52
Thank you @abuck99 that mean a lot coming from you.
How about we use meticulous or attention to detail they ring, OCD stings.
I'm going to sell.
I'd love to keep it. Everyone says its the best looking they've ever seen with an amazing color. Pictures really don't do justice to it! But plan was to restore and sell, and it's the only new addition I can get ready before the cold of winter shuts me down for the season.
I've been using Lexol, but just order a bottle of 303 Aero Protectant form autogeek. So I'm waiting for it to get here before treating the rubber and plastic. I also have some Leatherique coming with order (i ran out), but will use Lexol if I can't catch a few sunny hot days for the Leatherique.
That what I said..Thank you!
Got it! WTS.
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YardPig
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Cream puff comes to mind looking at those pictures. Are you using a PC7424? Ive had a lot of time on those and your paint color burgandy wine reminds me of my old Lexus LS400, once I was done with Menzera it looked a foot deep and still wet. Thats an incredible color, so rich looking when its fresh. I wish I had tried Farécla to see the difference. The Menzera is expensive but the results were hard to believe . I will agree, the Toyota clear coat is extremely hard and easy to color correct, I'd be surprised if burn through is even possible with an experienced operator on a rotary, even with a wool bonnet.
I really want to find the time one day to give my Cruiser the full treatment, it truly is rewarding to see paint look new with a ton of elbow grease.
Are you planning to pull the seats and carpet and pressure wash the carpets to take it over the top?
I really want to find the time one day to give my Cruiser the full treatment, it truly is rewarding to see paint look new with a ton of elbow grease.
Are you planning to pull the seats and carpet and pressure wash the carpets to take it over the top?
Took a look at this rig today and you're right about it being rusty underneath. Typical for New England, but not Virginia where it supposedly spent it's life before now.
2001LC
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I'm just using Mequiars DA micro fiber system. I'll need to look into the product you mentioned, as I like the deep "put your hand into" look! Thanks for the tip!
I not yet seen reason to pull carpet, I often do pull seats if I see any reason to, but I always pull plastic. I them vacuum 2 to 3 times before taking to car wash that has a dry chem shampoo I use. After that I spot work and vacuum again and again.
Yep, at $29K it would be a steal if not! Price was giveaway...
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