Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Differentials and transfer case gear lube.

I found the rear input of front differential weeping a bit. So I add some AT-205. After driving for minimum of 5 hours. I cleaned (de grease) the area, than drove some more. Leak did not return. While work on front diff replacing side seals, I do loose some lube. So I'll often just drain to start the job. So now is time to refill. May as well do all gear boxes now as a baseline.

Front is easiest of all for me. After draining, I replace washer/gasket on drain plug and torque to 36ft-lbf. The I just run a hose down from engine compartment into fill hole. Filling with about 1.8 qts, until lube runs out with. Then let settle down a minimum of 15 minutes, to allow lube to flow into ever area of gear box including side tube. Then torque in fill plug with new gasket.

Torque for both differentials drain & fill plugs, is 36ft-lbf

Next is transfer case, which again same procedure. But uses the aluminium sold gasket and with only 27ft-lbf of torque.

Rears I just squeeze in 3 1/2 bottles and flow same procedure.

Note: 200 series FSM now recommends driving to settle. I've compared driving to just letting sit to settle for 15 minimum. Results are the same. In either case, on final topping add until in runs out while vehicle level.

 

[2001LC]

Fabulous work, sir! I think I can speak for everyone when I say we seriously appreciate the time and effort you take to photograph and post up your work.

Thank you for saying that.

It does take a great deal of time.

Just trying to catch up posting work done on Emerald, is a taking what seems like forever. That is what I get for not posting daily as work done.

Time, is also why I'm just highlight the jobs and pointing out just a few key points. Anyone needs any detail or clarity on how to, Just ask. I be happy to answer.

I take less pictures these days. Not only saves time during job, but I've run low on storage space in CPU and back up drive.
Also my 2/3rds camera lens failed (just got to dirty in shop) on me. I did find a replacement lens on CL. But it doesn't give as sharp of pictures. Those are some of reasons, I use at least some stock footage in posting.

I'll kept working at organizing my master page. Which link to it (Thread of links to previous projects and much more.) is found in first line of signture.

 

[Infinity00]

I agree with the recent poster saying how much we appreciate you posting all this info. As you know, I don’t have a 100 series but want one some day. I watch and listen (read) to you because it’s just generally really good info and some of it should be applicable to my GX 470. With regards to the ball joint cover, does the wire come with it and how do you tie it off properly. I know I know, a lane question to go with all this great tech. What lube do you like for the bearings? I’ve been reading up on it and it just gets me more of not knowing what to choose. I’ve used Palladium on the knuckles of my 60 series cruiser per Robbie Aniston, but I just don’t know if it’s too thick for wheel bearings. I’ll have better questions next time Paul! Thanks for continuing with it. —Anne

 

[2001LC]

Thank you for saying that and you are welcome.

Not a lame questions.

I too question it when I got my first ball joint boot kit. I like the factory spring loaded wire best. But they aren't any good to reuse. So I just use included wire, that comes with kit. It possible to wrap wire twice, but can just be wrap once. Then just twist ends together. Don't over twist or wire will break (did that my first time).

I use Mobil One wheel bearing grease. Mobil One is top shelve synthetic and ready available. Any grease that states wheel bearing #2 will due. It just I like to keep simple, consistent and repeatable.

 

[2001LC]

Transmission flush (fully 12 qt) 6 steps!

After replacing the transmission cooler lines, clamps, hose stabilizer bracket and making sure I've no leaks. Flushing was final PM service for transmission. I did add ~1 qt of M1 MV ATF and drove for awhile, to watch for leaks. I saw no leaks. So I assume it was low due to either not fully topping at last flush (history showed a 12qt flush at 395Km, and 4 qt D&F at 219Km) the cooler hose leak/weeps or a little of both.

I like to do full 12 qt flush with synthetic ATF. History showed it had been done before, fluid looked and smelt okay. So I was not overly concerned with fresh Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF, cleaning gunk from clutch plates. My feeling on transmission is; If so bad that a good cleaning by new ATF destroys the transmission, it's going to fail anyway. May as well be while in PM and inspection faze, and not 200 miles from nowhere. If I'm overly concerned, I may do a ~3qt drain and fills (D&F) a few times, over a few hundred miles. It's believed these D&Fs, are easier on clutch plates and doesn't remove gunk that holds them together or gunk releasing clogging valves.

The older transmission with dipstick are so easy to flush. Why Toyota removed them in 04, well we've many opinions on that.

Procedure:

Step 1) First in any flush is to drain the pan which I'll get ~3 qts., depending on how long I let it drain. The A/T Pan is where fluid is first picked up from pick up tube and starts it circulating journey through the transmission and cooler lines. Once pan drained, I then torque back in the drain plug, to 15ft-lbf with new washer/gasket.

Step 2) Next I disconnect transmission cooler return hose from A/T oil cooler out pipe. The last easily accessible point, before ATF flow going back to transmission. I attach a clear ~3/8" ID hose to pipe (upper), that the return hose was connected to. Run my clear hose, to catch can, which I've mark with 1qt interval line.

The return hose & pipe, are on PS of radiator, within engine bay. We've two hose attached here in the 98-02 models. (03-up has power steering hose in area also, but the same two transmission cooler hose seen in all years). I place a rag under my work area, and just let disconnected hose lay on it.

Tip:
a) To free hose (any hose) from hard pipe, which hard pipe is easily crushed. I move clamp back down hose, then genitally & slightly twist back and forth (rock hose clockwise and counterclockwise, just a little to free from pipe) the hose on pipe, with pair of channel-locks. Being very careful, to not squeeze hard with channel-locks pliers.

*Note of caution:
The now disconnected rubber hose from oil cooler out pipe. Is attached on other end, to return hard line going back to transmission. In one instance, someone had mixed up hoses. I lost ~1/2qt on the shop floor, before spotting fluid pump out return hose. So nowadays, if no flow seen through clear hose to catch can, within ~3 seconds of starting engine. I'll stop engine and I double check, that no flow from end of rubber return hose.

Step 3) Next is to remove dipstick and place transmission funnel in its place. Then add back the same amount of new ATF as was just drained from pan. It is fine to overfill pan at this point, if you like. I do overfill by about ~1/2qt, which helps me keep up with A/T as it pumps ATF out.

3-a)
Alternate A/T fill method:
The disconnect return hose from A/T oil cooler out. Can be use to fill A/T. It is where fluid exchange machine, out flow hose is connected. This is handy point to top 04-up, which do not have dipstick.

I marking catch can with quart lines, to tack how much ATF removed. This is so I/we know, how much is pump out as we proceed. We're shooting for a total 12 qts drained from pan and pumped out. Removing more gets wasteful. My first time I went through 18 qt at $12 a qt.. that was 6 ($72) wasted.

Step 4) Now we are set. Just need to start engine and let it idle. As it idles, ATF pumps out old fluid as we're adding new ATF fluid at same time. Helper is great here, to start and stop engine as I pour in new. But I generally do job alone, run back to driver set shut engine off. Either way, we do not what to empty the pan and suck in air. So keep eye on how much is coming out, and keep up with that amount by filling. By add more engine off, to keep pan full. Our only real concern here is letting pan run dry, So don't!

Tip:
As I get near 10 qts. out. I'll dump catch can and watch color of fluid closely. At 12 qts removed, I should see color become lighter (in clear hose and bucket). As new fresh fluid stars to pump out. I hold back about 1/2 qts, of the 12 qts of new ATF using to fill, for topping later. Since easier, to add dipstick (98-03), than remove any, if overfilled.

Be alert to level, watch level in catch bucket as you add. Stop engine as catch can start to fill more than amount your adding back in A/T.

This, as you can see, was last of 12 qts, out, which is clear.

Step 6) Is setting level. Once 12 qts out and ~11 1/2qts in. I remove my clear catch hose. Reconnect return hose to oil cooler out hard pipe. Bring A/T #1 up to normal operating temp of 158F to 176F and top. I nail the High line of hot on dipstick.

Remember vehicle/transmission must be level, checked while engine idling in park or N after shifting through all gears.
I use a OBDIImx w/iphone or Tech Stream to watch A/T #1 temp. OR shoot A/T pan with IR temp gun, on bottom center of A/T pan.
Note: A/T fluid temp #2, is only seen in 06-07, it is not used for setting level

Tip:
To bring A/T #1 temp up to target of ~160F. I do, by holding brake on, engine running, while shift through D-3-2-1-1-2-3-D, holding in each gear for ~30 seconds, with RPM raised to ~1,500. This loads A/T, slipping clutch plates creating heat. But, Do NOT load A/T in R. You can also drive to bring up temp.

I like Mobil1 full synthetic MV ATF in 98-02. I set level dead on full hot line on dipstick. Then check periodically to see if level drops, which would indicate a leak. No leak then level will always be same, at same ATF #1 temperature. As mentioned: You can shoot transmission pan with IR gun and get a close reading of temp of ATF. But, make sure IR gun within 3 inches of pan. In my shop, with concert floor at 78F. My IR gun reads about 3F less than ATF #1 temp as read through tech stream.

I had also pulled inspection plate from bell-housing. Just looking at condition of flex plate starter gear teeth or cracks, etc and for any signs of leaks. After all it has over 350K miles, can't hurt to look, right! But not part of a flush.

BTW: Most all fluids from Toyota are from Exxon Mobil.

 

[Ozymandias]

This is a really great thread. Thanks!

 

[Jczajka]

I need to do this. I have all the tools and a case of ATF, just need the time.

Thanks for the close up pictures of the correct line to pull.

 

[2001LC]

Glade up enjoy and find it usefully.

Remember if doing an:
03 transmission they call for a certain ATF, check your OM for spec.
04 up, uses Toyota WS ATF and procedure is different in how we fill and check level. Additionally Toyota changed temp we check those transmissions fluid level at. So any manual pre 2010 has bad info, TBS out on this.

 

[Jczajka]

I have a 2000 LX, so my dozen M1 ATFs are ready to roll.

 

[FxFormat]

Talk about polishing a turd, you put amazing amount of work into these rigs, giving them new life. I wanna say you picked this up for $1000 or less lol.

What's your end game with this? restore and sell, or restore and keep?

 

[white_lx]

Concern was in stripping threads on spindle or adjusting nut. I really don't know at what torque they'd strip.

The axle nuts are very thin, but a quick calculation shows that for only one full thread engaged on the M42x1.5 thread and mild steel yield strength, it should strip at around 194 ft.lbs. Probably best to stay below half that number. The 2nd nut will assist, once it place.

 

[2001LC]

I have a 2000 LX, so my dozen M1 ATFs are ready to roll.

It's and art to hit dead-on 12 qts and not needing more to top. That is why I always have 1 or 2 qt more standing by and generally plan a PS flush afterwords.

Talk about polishing a turd, you put amazing amount of work into these rigs, giving them new life. I wanna say you picked this up for $1000 or less lol.

What's your end game with this? restore and sell, or restore and keep?

Your close. I keep track of all cost and time. I'm in for under $7K now and 200 hours. I've not even shampooed the carpet or rubbed out the body paint yet.

End game. Well!
I treat all 100 series that come into my shop the same. As if I'm keeping for life that is!
This one has been daily driver for a year now. If someone make me a reasonable offer I'd sell it, just as all three I currently have.

The axle nuts are very thin, but a quick calculation shows that for only one full thread engaged on the M42x1.5 thread and mild steel yield strength, it should strip at around 194 ft.lbs. Probably best to stay below half that number. The 2nd nut will assist, once it place.

Good info to know. 1/2 would be 97ft-lbf which is a lot!

~84ft-lbf is max is I've hit to-date on adjusting nut of wheel bearing. Which is very sung for the wheel bearings. Bearings must be in excellent broke-in condition to hit that at a ~12.5 BPL on spring scale. I was using twice the 43ft-lbf locking nut FSM recommended torque as my max.

 

[RyanStl]

I'm coming into this thread late. You need to start a YouTube channel. Would love to see all of this in video tuturial form.

 

[Jczajka]

Thanks @2001LC I have some extra from cleaning, replacing hoses, and bleeding my PS. Might buy an extra, just to have on hand though.

 

[2001LC]

I'm coming into this thread late. You need to start a YouTube channel. Would love to see all of this in video tuturial form.

I have videos on Youtube. Their not very good and all short (7 minutes or less) due to camera shuts off!

ME MY

Toyota Land Cruiser / Lexus LX470 series 100.

www.youtube.com

A camera is very helpful during inspection, while tearing components down and assembly. It gives me opportunity to review, zoom in, check how component was assembled and how I assembled.

I shot many still pictures just as aids at first, then to add visualize aids to my postings. Some are just what I use during inspections, like ball joint videos inspecting with wheels on. I only started posting in YouTube as means to post them in mud, which was due to request here in mud!

Fact is, taking still pictures takes extra time and has trashed my micro 2/3rd camera from grimy hands, shop dust and sprays.. Videos take much more of my time (setting up, reviewing, editing, posting). So I use some stock footage these days, just to help readers visualize. Doing a video of a full restore project as a tutorial, would be 100's of hours long, even after editing down.

I need spend some time and learn how to edited videos together. Like my wheel bearing videos, which are very segmented. But a more than 20 minutes long video, I doubt anyone would watch.

I also have a master page I work to make easier to find stuff and add to and improve as time passes. See first link in signature!

 

[2001LC]

Oil & filter change along with lubing propeller shafts and spiders, natural was done very early on in the PM work.

During inspecting, I look at history of oil & filter changes. This ones history indicated it was regularly done, great to see. But so often the 6 lubes point are not done as they should be with oil & filter PM. Where they don't need lubed every time, they do need regular lubing.

So one thing I look at during inspecting, is for signs they've been lubed. Grease fly's off these lube points on first drive after lube service is done. This leaves signs of old grease slung.

Good signs:

Again keeping wit h KISS in the shop and used all M1 oil, filter and grease.

Note: I never use HM oils (High Mileage) they will damage seals. If used for two oil change, must then be used until dead do use part!

 

[2001LC]

Plastic wield a mud flap.

Just a little tidying up.

 

[2001LC]

Wipers ere all shot, R&R all three.

 

[2001LC]

Third brake light leaking.

History of vehicle showed Lexus dealership replaced the third brake light just a few years ago. Yet it still was leaking. This leak can promoted or contributed to rust in bottom upper hatch. So we don't want to just let this go.

I pulled the third brake light, which trashes the two side tape that comes pre-mounted on these brake light housings. As I removed, I did really try and spot the leak point. I'm 92% it was not around the two sided tape seal.

I then cleaned the area on body and lens housing to remove every spec of the two sided tape. I also did a little paint touch up on body. A few spots paint was scratched or worn to the metal. So I ground-out to clean bare metal and used epoxy primer.


Rolled back the inner molding and disconnected the wire.

Removed two plugs to expose holes to 10mm nuts that secure the lens to hatch.

I've heat blow gun (hairdryer), carbon fiber body tool and 3M adhesive remover, I used to aided in removing lens and remains of two sided tape adhesive. Then painted on epoxy primer on exposed metal of hatch. It's likely these scratches are from when Lexus DS R&R the lens a few years ago.

All cleaned up and ready to be sealed then installed.

 

[2001LC]

It may be that the leak was from between the lens housings halves. They're factory sealed, but perhaps the seal just wasn't great. So I tape the seam of the halves and injected a little silicone and let cure overnight. Did seem to get in seam as good as I would have liked! Next time I'll just use the butyl.

I then used butyl (3M Windo-Weld Ribbon sealer) as a seal in place of the two sided tape. I rolled out a skinny (~1/2" thick) rope and stuck it to the back side of the lens, to create a seal. I made my rope of butyl too thick. I though the butyl would easily compress as I assembly the lens on the hatch and tighten down the nuts....WRONG!. I end up pressing and pressing and pressing the lens down working in the butyl. May not have been all bad, as it seemed to get into seam of the two halves factory seal. End result is no more leak.

Way to thick to easily install. Next time I'll make rope of butyl thinner (3/8") and work in with my fingers before attaching to hatch. Learning every day!

As I pressed and pressed lens to get in flush and properly seated in hatch. I saw where it seemed butyl was getting into what may have been the leak point.

No more leak