Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build)

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I am really tired of always messing with my turn signals so I purchased 25 feet of all the wire colors for the rear tail lights. Sombody did a bad splice in there going from the passenger tail lights to the driverside and I am just now getting around to addressing it. I think they used an extension cable.. I am not a fan of wiring but at least I try to use the correct style wires haha. I am going to use some oem style but connectors I think to splice them. I may buy another junction block or used the old junction block that was aftermarket to do this. I bought some automotive wire on amazon .I got green, Green/white, green/Red, Green/yellow, Green/Orange, Green/Blue I think I am missing one that I bought. Might be calling on the electrical mud Gods soon we will see.

I wont get to this or to the break soft lines till next weekend though.

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My bell housing, clutch fork, and flywheel shipped. I also recieved some motor mounts in the mail yesterday. I was a miricle it actually showed up. the box was ripped wide open. but everything was there. It came with a steering box mount that I will be selling. additionally I think I am missing just one more mount engine side. I will post what I have and hopefully sombody can tell me what mount I am missing. The biggest reason I purchased the mounts was for one of the frame side mounts in the rear came with it.

Yesterday we were really starting to see the swell from tropical storm lee. crossing my fingers the road on the north-end of the island does not wash over. and crossing my fingers the surf will get good at some point this week. Preferable Saturday when I am not working.
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I am really tired of always messing with my turn signals so I purchased 25 feet of all the wire colors for the rear tail lights. Sombody did a bad splice in there going from the passenger tail lights to the driverside and I am just now getting around to addressing it. I think they used an extension cable.. I am not a fan of wiring but at least I try to use the correct style wires haha. I am going to use some oem style but connectors I think to splice them. I may buy another junction block or used the old junction block that was aftermarket to do this. I bought some automotive wire on amazon .I got green, Green/white, green/Red, Green/yellow, Green/Orange, Green/Blue I think I am missing one that I bought. Might be calling on the electrical mud Gods soon we will see.

I wont get to this or to the break soft lines till next weekend though.

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I suggest adding additional grounds to the lights. (Instead of relying on the light’s mount)

Here’s how I did mine:

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No worries! Where did you go? Hopefully what I got works haha. From what I was told the fly wheel has to match up with the pressure plate and clutch. So if you have a 2f flywheel and a 2f clutch assembly, it will work with the 3speed bell housing and transmission. Witch is what I decided to do because the later 2f clutch kits are cheeper and easier to find usually. I am going to do some more research before I buy the clutch kit.

Looked like cruiser teq had some really good deals on clutch kits and starters. I think I saw a remanufactured starter for under 100$ and of course I am still looking for an engine. I think I may have found one out close to charlotte NC. I just gotta find time to go look at it and see.

I am going to hate doing the fork too.

The good news Is I found all three frame side engine mounts. On the salt wagon they were all cut off and lost to time when somebody swapped in the SBC
It would be cool to find out whether this works. I'd be deliriously happy to install the 2F stuff I still have and keep the 3 speed.
I made the mistake of arguing for the 2f engine in a land cruiser fj40 over a SBC on a facebook chain of messages on a land cruiser group. They made the argument that its easier to go to a parts store for a sbc over a Toyota engine. witch is true but a moot point for where I live - an island on the outer banks that you have to take a ferry too. also a good 3 hours from any parts store. Anyways they got kinda nasty and argumentative. I was just trying to say I would rather have a Toyota engine in my Toyota land cruiser and to each their own. Anyways rant over, I will not be going down that rabbit hole again on facebook. People get way too heated over this silly crap. cant we just be stoked for everyone!

I did get some bolts in for the hard top to the tub from overland metric yesterday and installed them. Somthing small that I did this weekend but at least the bolts are nice and shiny. Edit: As soon as I posted I got some parts in! soft breaklines break spoon tool and the hood bib pads from City Racer! excited to install these soft lines soon!

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Left is before.
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Hahaha! I also saw and commented on that thread. I also saw that Ryan Leaf was spitting facts but the SBC fan Boyz weren't having it.


I am really tired of always messing with my turn signals so I purchased 25 feet of all the wire colors for the rear tail lights. Sombody did a bad splice in there going from the passenger tail lights to the driverside and I am just now getting around to addressing it. I think they used an extension cable.. I am not a fan of wiring but at least I try to use the correct style wires haha. I am going to use some oem style but connectors I think to splice them. I may buy another junction block or used the old junction block that was aftermarket to do this. I bought some automotive wire on amazon .I got green, Green/white, green/Red, Green/yellow, Green/Orange, Green/Blue I think I am missing one that I bought. Might be calling on the electrical mud Gods soon we will see.

I wont get to this or to the break soft lines till next weekend though.

View attachment 3425614
I just learned the hard way why Toyota used those socket clips. Trust me, they are worth it, but you gotta use the right kind. @Coolerman can hook you up.
 
@120mm Yeah the were getting heated over the stupidest crap. The one guy was just strait up being an A hole to me. All while the original post was about rebuilding a 2f and swapping in a sbc. the poor guy just wanted some honest input. I dont mind a sbc but I really want my land cruiser to be all toyota.

I am fairly certain the 2f flywheel with the 2f clutch and pressure plate with the 1f bell housing will work with the 3speed. If anyone else on mud wanted to chime in on this they could. I bough the parts from @cruisermatt He said it should all work.
 
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I have a spare F135 here in Seattle! Just how to get it across the country?
 
I have a spare F135 here in Seattle! Just how to get it across the country?
I wish I could take a road trip for that engine! I wonder how much that would be to ship. Feel like it would be high, That would be ideally what I want to put back in the old fj40. If you could PM me about the details about the engine.

Side note: I love the old scans of manuals and brochures btw!
 
Currently about $300-400 to ship an engine freight.
 
Looks like its going to be another rainy weekend so I wont get to work on the fj40. but some good news! I have been unpleased with the lift on my 40 for a while now. I think I am going to start my suspension swap soonish. I purchased some ebay special shackles (they are spector off road ones) I got a pretty good deal on them. They came with pins too. I am stoked because they look like more of an oem style shackle that is grease-able. I think I am going to buy a dobinsons 1.75 inch lift for the 40. Just purchase the kit a few parts at a time as well.

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Looks like its going to be another rainy weekend so I wont get to work on the fj40. but some good news! I have been unpleased with the lift on my 40 for a while now. I think I am going to start my suspension swap soonish. I purchased some ebay special shackles (they are spector off road ones) I got a pretty good deal on them. They came with pins too. I am stoked because they look like more of an oem style shackle that is grease-able. I think I am going to buy a dobinsons 1.75 inch lift for the 40. Just purchase the kit a few parts at a time as well.

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If I may trouble you to clarify, what didn’t you like about your lift? Remind us what it was?

I’m about to throw a full dobisons on the 62 (springs, shocks, new pins and shackles). I’m sure she’ll sit a bit more proud.

The springs on the 40 are fine I think, they’ve been dowsed in enough oil to remain somewhat supple.
Threw some Bilstein 5100’s on there awhile back and have new bushings arriving tomorrow. Shims on her next.
 
When we owned it I remember HATING the lift. Rides like a brick... so many leaves all in a row all for a 40 series. I always imagined the PO just ordered the "HEAVY DUTY SUSPENSION" for it cause that has to be the "best". I wanted to take the leaves out and instead of having so many take all but 2-3 out on each side. Good on you it'll ride 10x better. From the back of my head it was either a 3 or 4 inch lift I think, could be off the PO told us this 4-5 years ago now
 
If I may trouble you to clarify, what didn’t you like about your lift? Remind us what it was?

I’m about to throw a full dobisons on the 62 (springs, shocks, new pins and shackles). I’m sure she’ll sit a bit more proud.

The springs on the 40 are fine I think, they’ve been dowsed in enough oil to remain somewhat supple.
Threw some Bilstein 5100’s on there awhile back and have new bushings arriving tomorrow. Shims on her next.
Pretty much what @theglobb said above. They just suck. they are so stiff they barley have any travel. I am pretty sure its a rough country 4 inch lift. I kinda dont like the look of 4 inches too. to me I dont know how else to describe it but the 40 looks kinda like a ford model t with that much lift. Plus my wife will be able to get in it a little easier. I knew when I bought it that I would change it out though. Plus eventually I really want to put the 16 inch oem steel rims and some sta super traxion bias plys for a more authentic oem look. I also just love the look of the old school tires. But the kendas are fantastic and love them right now.

You 62 will look good with a lift. I have always loved the look of a 60 series with 33s and a 2 inch lift!
 
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Pretty much what @theglobb said above. They just suck. they are so stiff they barley have any travel. I am pretty sure its a rough country 4 inch lift. I kinda dont like the look of 4 inches too. to me I dont know how else to describe it but the 40 looks kinda like a ford model t with that much lift. Plus my wife will be able to get in it a little easier. I knew when I bought it that I would change it out though. Plus eventually I really want to put the 16 inch oem steel rims and some sta super traxion bias plys for a more authentic oem look. I also just love the look of the old school tires. But the kendas are fantastic and love them right now.

You 62 will look good with a lift. I have always loved the look of a 60 series with 33s and a 2 inch lift!
Thanks for the reply.

My 40 has some sort of lift, guessing some Rancho something based on the shocks I pulled off and the red (what’s left of them) bushings in the spring eyes. I’m getting in some new poly bushings today and that’ll be the extent of my suspension work (Bilsteins last year) for now. There is plenty of life left in these springs but they are pretty heavy duty.
It would be smart to figure out how much lift is actually on it, it is a wee cumbersome to get in and out.

I have 33x10.5 on the 40 now and I’m not really loving the look, looks cartoonish. Likely will transfer those to the 62 and size down to 31 or something. Would like to go narrower as well.

A buddy was over the other day with his 60 on 33x10.5’s and it stood perfectly. I’m sure the couple inches with the new springs will push the tire swap sooner.

Ian
 
Thanks for the reply.

My 40 has some sort of lift, guessing some Rancho something based on the shocks I pulled off and the red (what’s left of them) bushings in the spring eyes. I’m getting in some new poly bushings today and that’ll be the extent of my suspension work (Bilsteins last year) for now. There is plenty of life left in these springs but they are pretty heavy duty.
It would be smart to figure out how much lift is actually on it, it is a wee cumbersome to get in and out.

I have 33x10.5 on the 40 now and I’m not really loving the look, looks cartoonish. Likely will transfer those to the 62 and size down to 31 or something. Would like to go narrower as well.

A buddy was over the other day with his 60 on 33x10.5’s and it stood perfectly. I’m sure the couple inches with the new springs will push the tire swap sooner.

Ian
Thats how I would describe the 4 inch lift as looking slightly cartoony with narrow 33x9.50 kends. I forgot to mention putting a surfboard on my yakima racks is a huge pain in the ass with the 4 inch lift. I am thinking it would make it a little better to go down a couple of inches.

I had 33x10.50s bfg ats on my fj80 and really liked those on that. Looked perfect with the ome stock height lift. I saw a 62 for sale on Marketplace that had 33s and it looked goood.

I could be wrong but I dont think you can find oem height springs for the 40 series anymore. If you could I think I would go back to oem height and some bias plys. Just like what @120mm has on his. I think I can get closer to 32 inch bias plys for the 16 inch rim though. It Just looks the perfect vintage for the vehicle. But I think best I can do is the 1.75 inch from dobinsons.
 
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Pretty much what @theglobb said above. They just suck. they are so stiff they barley have any travel. I am pretty sure its a rough country 4 inch lift. I kinda dont like the look of 4 inches too. to me I dont know how else to describe it but the 40 looks kinda like a ford model t with that much lift. Plus my wife will be able to get in it a little easier. I knew when I bought it that I would change it out though. Plus eventually I really want to put the 16 inch oem steel rims and some sta super traxion bias plys for a more authentic oem look. I also just love the look of the old school tires. But the kendas are fantastic and love them right now.

You 62 will look good with a lift. I have always loved the look of a 60 series with 33s and a 2 inch lift!
OEM steel rims are 15 inch. Overseas, there was a split rim that was 16 inch. City Racer is also a popular choice of a steel rim, which looks OEM but is aftermarket and it 16 inch
 
OEM steel rims are 15 inch. Overseas, there was a split rim that was 16 inch. City Racer is also a popular choice of a steel rim, which looks OEM but is aftermarket and it 16 inch
I assumed the city racer one was oem but that makes total sense that its not oem. Thanks for the info. I did see a 16 inch split rim oem set for sale in Wilmington NC recently though.
 
I assumed the city racer one was oem but that makes total sense that its not oem. Thanks for the info. I did see a 16 inch split rim oem set for sale in Wilmington NC recently though.
Do city racer, don’t do split rims. Split rims are for remote places that you might need to change your tire yourself. Do city racer if you are going 16 inch
 
I was about to pull the trigger on some City Racer wheels but they are spendy. Shipping was $500 alone because they come from Japan. I'm going to need to save for a bit before I do those. They are definitely the best option for those of us that want to keep the OEM look and still be able to use our OEM hub caps in my opinion.
 

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