Builds Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build (2 Viewers)

[clrussell]

Let’s see if we can decipher this diagram here after I get the kids to bed and diagnose your headlights.

 

[clrussell]

Should have a red power input to the headlight switch after the fuse. This will be always hot (battery positive)
Then red white output of the switch to the dimmer switch when switch is in on position.

If you have power all the way to the dimmer switch jump across the dimmer terminal from red white to red green (low beam) and see what you have. Also can go to red yellow (high beam)

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Should have a red power input to the headlight switch after the fuse. This will be always hot (battery positive)
Then red white output of the switch to the dimmer switch when switch is in on position.

If you have power all the way to the dimmer switch jump across the dimmer terminal from red white to red green (low beam) and see what you have. Also can go to red yellow (high beam)

View attachment 3979043

Thanks for this! I am going to look at this after work today! just weird that it did work for a hot minute when I left the lights on. Heaters did this recently too and now they dont work.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I have not gotten around to working on the electrical on the fj55. Yesterday I started catching a cold so I just layed low after work. I did buy a muffler though. The old one was too shot and I cut it out had welded in a strait pipe. Partly because I had to use the down pipe from the other fj55 I got the engine out of. I don't care too much about stock mufflers so I decided to go with this flowmaster muffler because of the ease on my pocket haha. It was only 58 buckeroos and had pretty good reviews. the down pipe on the fj55 I have is 2.5 inches and the tail pipe is 2.25 so I got some couplers too. It will be nice for the neighborhood not to hear my tank engine starting up in the morning haha. I am going to pick up some tires after my trip up to Maine next week. Any of you mud peeps wanna meet up in bar harbor area let me know!

 

[clrussell]

My wife and kids will be in Portland next week. Too bad I’m not with them I’d jog up to BH and catch up

 

[Roastchestnuts]

My wife and kids will be in Portland next week. Too bad I’m not with them I’d jog up to BH and catch up

dang! Yeah we are headed up for a wedding but I am going to have some free time for sure.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I didnt have alot of energy today. I caught a cold the first week back working... probably the stress. I did double check to see if I had power to that switch. I just wanted to share what I found.
This terminal on the connector to the head light switch has 12v power. I guess I need to check what wire that actually is. I will check that tomorrow. Does the power go to the high low switch in the column from here or does it go to the fuse block? I have been cleaning connectors and that did not help much. although turn signals seem stronger. I got some fine grit sand paper and sanded the terminals on the fuse block as well. no luck there. although thats where I stoped. I had power to the fuse block but I did not scrutinize and really check every terminal. I think tomorrow after work I might undo the wires to the fuse block and clean there too. then check voltage there too.

the heater motors seem to not work most of the time as well. The main heater has stopped pretty much all together. I have only heard it one time working. it sounded fine. very quiet.

 

[clrussell]

Is the dimmer switch in the column on a 55? Not the floor like a 40?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Is the dimmer switch in the column on a 55? Not the floor like a 40?

Mine seems to be on the column. Its cooler on the floor though.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Updates: Still no luck on the head lights... I am atleast getting power to the red wire to the switch. I am going to do some more test this afternoon.

I have some other good and bad news. Ill start with the good. I notticed some wierd idling noises so I decided to adjust those valves. and holy crap they were way out. Some were way too tight and some too loose. but after I adjusted them everything seems to be running better. no wierd bogging and seems to fire up quicker. other good news Is I got the trans tunnel for the 3 speed to fit the 4 speed. for those not in the know: 4speed fj55 t-tunnels are not the same as 3speed t tunnels. and they dont miss match. I just trimmed the 3 speed tunnel some around the shifter hole. Now it fits and is bolted down. Now I have 4 low working as well. I just need to buy some shifter boots now.

Bad news. Somthing is wierd with the rear brakes. I feeling and hearing a strange clunk. I am feeling it in the peddle too like a change in brake pressure. No fluid is leaking. It is enough to be concerning. its for sure not slop in the drive train. I assume one of the pads in the rear drums have come loose or something. Any thoughts before I tear into it? I am probibly not going to get into it today. but probably when I get back from Maine.

also pretty soon after I get back I will be starting the rockers and floors.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Let me be the first to say I am not an electrician. I think I have figured out that I am not getting the headlights working. seems I am not getting power in the fuse block on the fuse that the headlights go to. I swear I checked and got power there. but maybe the issue is a loose connection or somthing because when I looked this morning No power. Out of curiosity I jumped it with one that does have power. (the fuse right below) and the headlights will work that way and the switch works that way. My question is does this mean my fuse block is damaged? Or am I thinking about that wrong?

also I I wish I had the cover because every time I gotta look up each fuse.

No updates on brakes yet. I ordered pads. but I might open it up and need springs or something. Hopefully its something simple.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Fuses can look good, but be bad - the fault is at the attachment point inside under the metal cap. Use a multi meter to test fuse for continuity cap to cap. There are nice little fuse puller/testors that are very handy.

The clips on the fuse box can be corroded. Disconnect the battery and use like a 30 cal bore brush to clean the clips. The wires and connections on the back side of the fuse box can get corroded or loose. Look carefully at the wire crimp connections - corrosion can crawl under the insulation making a poor connection.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

City Racer has what you need. It says FJ40 but the part number is the same as the FJ55 through 08/71

Fuse Box and Cover for '71 and Earlier Land Cruiser FJ40

This is a brand new fuse box and fuse box cover for '69 to 9/'71 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Direct replacement for OEM Part # 82600-30022, which has been discontinued by Toyota. This fuse box also fits all prior model years with the 5 terminal fuse box, with the only difference being the extra...

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Fuses can look good, but be bad - the fault is at the attachment point inside under the metal cap. Use a multi meter to test fuse for continuity cap to cap. There are nice little fuse puller/testors that are very handy.

The clips on the fuse box can be corroded. Disconnect the battery and use like a 30 cal bore brush to clean the clips. The wires and connections on the back side of the fuse box can get corroded or loose. Look carefully at the wire crimp connections - corrosion can crawl under the insulation making a poor connection.

Fuse has continuity. I did check that. just not power to the fuse block there. Ill re sand the clips and see. might just replace the whole thing as I am having issues with other electric stuff like my heater and the radio comes on and off. I swapped the horn and headlights on the fuse panel and now the headlights work but the horn does not. Ill look at the wire connections next and report back.

City Racer has what you need. It says FJ40 but the part number is the same as the FJ55 through 08/71

Fuse Box and Cover for '71 and Earlier Land Cruiser FJ40

This is a brand new fuse box and fuse box cover for '69 to 9/'71 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Direct replacement for OEM Part # 82600-30022, which has been discontinued by Toyota. This fuse box also fits all prior model years with the 5 terminal fuse box, with the only difference being the extra...

www.cityracerllc.com

View attachment 3982562

I was just looking at that. yeah I think mine is may of 1971. so i would use the older one. I found one a little cheeper than city racer on fleebay. I love city racer though! Looks like I got the last ebay one.

For Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 Fuse Box and Cover LandCruiser FJ40 1971 Early New | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/355460628173?_skw=1971+fj40+fuse+block&itmmeta=01K433P15GW3FFVDQJPK17G74C&hash=item52c31abecd:g:Ns0AAOSwPGllyu-E&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cBt%2F2T7zx8FConB0xqY0Si%2BykfKBR5ywr4YMfwczhzh9R%2FhvRiGGkzhX5%2B9YrBlhdvtZGBJxleNJ%2FHAEqFtsH7%2F6gNCgcqQAPYjn5KSfQ8edcMmKl2%2FHvDghyxxxx1omxCIeW10ge2b0ipT%2FNBJHcVJI35FIcrpXT6jmxj5iOkP6QsmWnaX8JJIIFd%2FCbwM8k2avHmsyQUMjCSUDA1wMbXqGwSnm8YZG1ORFQ2v6QVbJvoAl2loLGChBNJ1V%2Bhz1PkDnI3StHdof3Rt6tsRoqPsXXd1gbuz0p61zCrLgu%2FFw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR_iS2OOgZg&pfm=0

 

[charliemeyer007]

Sanding the clips erodes the plating on them making it easier for corrosion to form and leads to more often cleaning. A $1 bore brush is very effective without causing more damage. A small coating of dielectric grease helps. Paste wax can work too.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

this thing purrs after the valve adjustment. I did the valve lash the other day and holy crap at TDC on #1 the first two valves were so tight. I think sombody did an adjustment with it running by ear or just guessed or somthing but none were close. I think I can dial them in a little more but what a difference! it runns way smoother. I always use the chart below from Mud!

Head lights work with high and low beam. I am replacing the fuse block and seeing if that fixes my issues. It was cheep enough and I want reliable. Like I said above, If I swap the head light wire and horn wire on the fuse block, the headlights work and the horn does not. I am just not getting power to that first fuse.

Starts way faster on the key now too

 

[charliemeyer007]

That sounds good!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

That sounds good!

thanks! I think one more round of carb tuning, timing, and maybe one more slight valve adjustment and it will be perfect.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I like to "just" hear the valves. Better to hear them than burn them, is the rule I learned.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I like to "just" hear the valves. Better to hear them than burn them, is the rule I learned.

True that. they are way better now than when I first started it. too tight and too loose on most.