Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (3 Viewers)

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I had the exact same fuel issue on 35... 1/3 of a tank, winched to flat ground and had no issue.

The problem with older diesels and sucking air is that you lose fuel system prime and you have to re-prime the fuel system to get running again (see above picture of me under the hood). I can't just crank it up and keep going.
 
I know nothing about fuel pickups,

Well then, in tank fuel line is specific and expensive so hard line is your friend, the Walbro pickup have 5/16” barbed ends but I run ½” fuel line up to my low pressure pump, if you look at the photo of my setup I step up to 3/8” SS hard line from the pickups then jump to ½” exiting the tank.

I bought 4 pickups but only installed 3 because I didn’t have one correct fitting at the time and was pushed for time to get it running. I regret that decision and wish I would have installed all 4, not because I’ve had any issues with the 3 but I still would like to have two rear pickups for the steep off camber climbs instead of the single centered pickup.
 
Well then, in tank fuel line is specific and expensive so hard line is your friend, the Walbro pickup have 5/16” barbed ends but I run ½” fuel line up to my low pressure pump, if you look at the photo of my setup I step up to 3/8” SS hard line from the pickups then jump to ½” exiting the tank.

I bought 4 pickups but only installed 3 because I didn’t have one correct fitting at the time and was pushed for time to get it running. I regret that decision and wish I would have installed all 4, not because I’ve had any issues with the 3 but I still would like to have two rear pickups for the steep off camber climbs instead of the single centered pickup.

I was going to ask why you went with three instead of four :p

For the pickups with bleeders, did you run one in your truck? It seems that the disadvantage of a bleeder is that it will suck some air if the bleeder is exposed, which is not a good thing if you stay at that angle for a while, or end up running low on fuel for whatever reason.
 
For the pickups with bleeders, did you run one in your truck?

Yes I ran pickup with the bleeder hole, I placed that pickup in the lowest part of my tank and is the least likely to suck air. When you see the size on the bleed hole you’ll see as long as at least one of your pickups are pulling fuel you wouldn’t pull enough air to cause an issue, the benefit to having a bleed hole is if for some reason you ran your tank out of fuel and sucked all of the pickups shut they would stay shut until you break the vacuum by other means.
 
Dang, dude. That's a good plan!

Still enjoying all the problem solving, and the tow monster looks really great.

:cheers:

Thanks Drew :D Looks like I just scored two 8274s for $450, so my plan will be enacted sooner than expected!

Yes I ran pickup with the bleeder hole, I placed that pickup in the lowest part of my tank and is the least likely to suck air. When you see the size on the bleed hole you’ll see as long as at least one of your pickups are pulling fuel you wouldn’t pull enough air to cause an issue, the benefit to having a bleed hole is if for some reason you ran your tank out of fuel and sucked all of the pickups shut they would stay shut until you break the vacuum by other means.

10-4! Bleed hole pickup it is.

Thanks once again for the guidance @J Mack , this would be a lot more difficult had you not figured out all of my problems for me in advance :cheers:
 
Glad I could help, I believe all of us 4BT guys that are following behind you and Moonshine owe a debt of gratitude to all your well documented work!

Hope to see moonshine in person some day!!
 
(Quote)The black cap? Not modified, that's how it came from PSC. The hole in the cap is 1/8" NPT IIRC and has that push-lock fitting on there just to connect the vent/burp/splash tube. The little black tube goes down below the fender.[/QUOTE]

PSC must have made some changes.....my cap is a different color which means nothing but it has a "nipple type fitting" made into to the cap and I have a clear piece of hose for the breather. I'll have to look at it again but I think my cap is made that way, I like the change and the 90 degree vent tube connection, I'll look into changing mine or just see if the cap is available. I've not been on their web site in a while so they may have changed some stuff since I bought mine.
 
2 8274s for $450? That's a smoking deal. I got one for $350 once, last one was $500. You scored big time.

Put one on your 80 series. (that you will eventually buy!)
 
PSC must have made some changes.....my cap is a different color which means nothing but it has a "nipple type fitting" made into to the cap and I have a clear piece of hose for the breather. I'll have to look at it again but I think my cap is made that way, I like the change and the 90 degree vent tube connection, I'll look into changing mine or just see if the cap is available. I've not been on their web site in a while so they may have changed some stuff since I bought mine.

Agreed, they must have made some changes. Is the hole in your lid tapped? If not, thread it for 1/8" NPT and order some push-lock fittings from McMaster Carr. Boom, done.

2 8274s for $450? That's a smoking deal. I got one for $350 once, last one was $500. You scored big time.

Put one on your 80 series. (that you will eventually buy!)

I don't have my hands on them yet, but my buddy @southerncruiser62 just picked them up for me an hour ago in Charleston!! Thanks Greg!!

Seller said that one of them had a cracked lower case but after reading @flintknapper and @Awl_TEQ's 8274 rebuild thread, I think I'll be able to fix it up:

My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....
 
Hey Johnny,

If you look back in my Crockpot thread, you can see a few simple mods that I did to the 8274. I drilled and tapped the cases for drain and fill plugs (set screws) and added grease zerks to the friction points...good mods that were easy to do.
 
Hey Johnny,

If you look back in my Crockpot thread, you can see a few simple mods that I did to the 8274. I drilled and tapped the cases for drain and fill plugs (set screws) and added grease zerks to the friction points...good mods that were easy to do.

Will do man, thank you!! I had forgotten you had an 8274.
 
Have two videos from GSMTR 2017 showing Moonshine doing what she does best.



 
That Devil's Elbow video really shows the need for that front locker. You would have walked right up on the first try. Looks like fun.
 
That Devil's Elbow video really shows the need for that front locker. You would have walked right up on the first try. Looks like fun.

100% agreed. Will definitely have to try it next year.

What killed me that day is that my front ARB is sitting on the shelf at home!! Wish I had time to get it put in place before GSMTR.
 
I remember the pic of the ARB on the shelf. No front locker will make you a better 4wheeler in the end.
 
I cannot remember having my engine die due to the angle I was at but I have had it die when dropping the throttle. My big fuel prefilter kinda acts like a little reserve feeding my main filter so maybe this has helped on the angles. If I was hard on the throttle and then let off abruptly my engine would die and I'd have to bleed injectors to get it going again. One of my causes that I eventually found was that a fitting on my fuel prefilter unit was loose and allowed air to get in during these throttle drops. Air would get into the IP and then into the injectors but after tightening that fitting it improve quite a bit. Recently I was playing in the dunes on a hill climb at 95% throttle when I let off quickly and it happened again. Luckliy I had dug in so the truck wasn't moving but I had to bleed the injectors on the hill to get it to start. So that fitting wasn't the only cause of this condition. Somehow air gets into the system. I wonder if other factors are high boost, power screw settings, fuel supply restrictions, tiring IP, injector style. I also recently set up some new injectors with a VCO tip and a little lower pop pressure. So far I haven't killed it yet... but I haven't been trying to either so I can't say it's solved.
 
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Changing gears for a minute, have an expedition style trip this weekend to the Pisgah and Cherokee national forests in West NC and East TN. Build version 3.5 of my sleeping platform. The metal frame is exactly as I want but the wood portion needs to be finished after I get the spare tire out of there. For now it works.

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Made the upper layer so that it can slide forward 1' when the front seats are folded forward to give me a full 7' of sleeping platform length and 42" of width to the fridge (more in front of the fridge). This is the rearward position (even though the PS seat is folded):

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Forward position:

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Back to the boring tires. Center diff axles rule.

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The astute (and long-time) readers of this thread will say "Hey Johnny, why does that painted black plywood look familiar?".

Well Mr. Observant, that's because this piece of plywood has been riding around in moonshine since ~2008, sleeping platform 1.0. Here's a pic from 2009 when I painted it black. Thought it was neat that I was able to reuse this wood from so long ago.

assembled-drawers-1-jpg.315619
 
Went camping. New sleeping platform works very well. Not a lot of room up top, but it's very comfortable to sleep in, plenty of horizontal space.

Charging system needs some attention. Batteries appear to not hold a charge very long anymore. Need to pull off the random things I've wired to the battery over the years and build a proper fuse block in the engine bay.

Have a weird-off-throttle-but-not-coasting vibration above 60mph now as well. Inbetween cruising and coasting, when there's no load on the driveline, it vibrates enough to notice, not enough to really shake the truck. Need to investigate, suspect driveshaft u-joints.

Other than that, Moonshine performed flawlessly :D Rolled over 320k miles on the odo yesterday:

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I'll put some video up this week:

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