How far away from tire do you gotaa be to avoid spring rub when articulated, with a stock width axle ? I realize the frame has to be frenched to allow the towers to move over , my set up could be done without cutting frame but it only leaves 2" between tire & spring on coilover ?
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Have you made an actual kinematic model of your proposed suspension? That is the only thing that can answer your question without physically building everything and cycling it in real life.
Kinda like asking if a couch will fit through your doorframe without providing the dimensions of the couch or doorframe.
Kinda like asking if a couch will fit through your doorframe without providing the dimensions of the couch or doorframe.
We love you Peezy . You can do it Cut first then measure if you need . Post up a pic so we can see what we are working with here
- Thread starter
- #4
look at your pics,i aint reinventing the wheel, its a recipe for me. tmr brackets, radflo 2.0's 14", partsmike rod ends, dom from ebay, 1,800 so far, need limit straps, paint, bump stops, welding wire & gas, lots of cutting & death wheel work. 32 " uppers. 30" lowers, 10 in axle sep & asmuch as I can get at frame. 4 " up, 9 down, frenching towers into frame, cutting inner fender a bit, towers will stick up too far so I will raise the center 6 " of inner fender.
Inboard em and drop the coilover low on the axle. I'm running 12"s on mine, Much more is hard to package on a stock frame IMO.
Do you have a low axle mount you like to use or do you just fab one?
Sky manufacturing makes a nice mount
I just made one. Mine drops around 4" iirc.
So with the offset diff you need to watch the upper link and the driveline . I have a centered diff so its not a issue but with the offset the upper link will hit the driveline at droop . Also stock width is going to be interesting as far as clearance goes .
- Thread starter
- #12
luckily whoever did my 60 was a bit off so the yoke is about 1.5 closer to center and it looks like it will make it, may have to limit but eyeballs good, thats why i asked about upper hole. it solves that for sure on mine. almost switch to trailing arms and moving shocks to front wheel well area but not happy with parralel lowers and they will drag on stiff IMO. with the 2.0's the towers sectioned into frame right at the stock shock cross tube so I will save that tube & inner plate, then when towers go in I will cut a hole and reweld stock cross tube & inner plate to tower, it will retain some of the stock look, kinda cool detail I thought
Any chance you would be willing to share the cut file?
If I still have it I can. If not, I'd be happy to make another one quickly.
Blackknight1
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