Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (2 Viewers)

[ceylonfj40nut]

Day job over. Night shift. Axle stripped, cleaned. All components cleaned painted. New Napa premium solid rotors, calipers, lifetime brake pads. New flex brake hose clamps. Decided not to do drilled and slotted rotors since it’s a pain to clean them after being in mud.

Ran around two days trying to find front diff gasket. Back ordered for the whole of US at the stealerships. Lithium high temp grease. Nothing new but trying to do it right.

Got a four finger pour going. We will see where it goes south. Listening to Larry Fleet. Weather 75F.

 

[thatcabledude]

They sell that front diff gasket in a tube.

For real though, it’s the only way I seal mine.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Since I am going with stock height springs I will go with Tokico shocks. Hard to beat the price of OEM. @fl4031003 rig has a great stance and articulation with the stock spring set up.

Front Assy: 48511-69435

Rear Assy: 48531-69535

Total out the door is $180.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Front done. Tedious. What took the most time is putting all new hardware. Had to double nut to remove, clean threads, blue loctite, double nut new hardware. Could not get myself to buy abs blank covers for obscene price. Using my abs sensor as a cover for free. I am not doing aBS. PO difflock actuator works. Cleaned it and will get installed. Lucked out on getting pigtails. Eliminated dust shields. Tired of rocks binding in between it and rotor and freaking me out on trails.

 

[cruisermatt]

looks great. unused ABS sensors are great if you want to do traction control later
Good call on the dust shield delete

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

looks great. unused ABS sensors are great if you want to do traction control later
Good call on the dust shield delete

Thanks for all the great hardware. Not going for showroom. Just solid. Hardware meets that!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Got started on the rear axle tear down. E-brake has seen better days. Glad I am tearing into this. Going all OEM here. Doing ARP studs for the hub. Looks like I will be able to salvage the brake hard lines.

 

[cruisermatt]

Skip the ARP studs.

If you’re going to do anything go straight to larger bolt.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Are you referring to lug or hub axle shaft hub studs? Referring to latter.

 

[cruisermatt]

Are you referring to lug or hub axle shaft hub studs? Referring to latter.

M8 Hub/shaft studs.

This thread has the best pictures and parts numbers
I would leave the stock studs alone and see if you have issue first. Many don’t, especially with selectable lockers, i broke them a few times but I had the lunchbox locker so unneeded stresses for sure

Building An 80 Series Rearend For Desert Racing On A Budget.

We have been running an 80 Series semi float in the back of my 4619 car since 2014. It has bee very durable considering with only one axle shaft falure. It has never bent which it dam impressive. The goal here is build a full floater with upgraded shafts, ARB. Will bolt in and we will keep...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Broski]

Great Build CD !!
The stock hardware we be fine, For what it's worth I run the ARP hardware but you know what I like to do with my Reg

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Finally got all the bits to finish out rear axle build and tie/relay rods. Also got some extra front end bits for spares. Parts are at times back ordered. Hard to keep things on track with the supply chain stuff.

 

[Broski]

Finally got all the bits to finish out rear axle build and tie/relay rods. Also got some extra front end bits for spares. Parts are at times back ordered. Hard to keep things on track with the supply chain stuff.

View attachment 3305598

Finally got to meet Kurt at Cruise Moab last week, super nice guy !!

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Finally got to meet Kurt at Cruise Moab last week, super nice guy !!

Likewise!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Both axles fully rebuilt. Got some help from @SipLife to get them in to make a roller. All new bushings. Did not take many pics of axles rebuilds. Usual stuff. Next up a little of more frame clean up, body swap/mounts tack in, burn in, hit with chassis black paint.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

80 frame ready for body mounts. @SipLife helped me separate the body from the crusty 60 frame.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

60 frame rust, separated shock tower. Swiss cheese.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Mud salute!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Leveled frame and body. Found center of front of body by finding center of valence and center between frame horns. Centered rear by finding center of tailgate and center of rear cross member. Dropped plumblines from valence and tail gate centers. Used these to match the body center to frame center. Also got the frame positioned so center of wheel arch line up with center of wheel hubs. Started cutting front fenders to clear shock towers and coil buckets. Will trim pinch welds in the rear to lower it as close to the frame.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Cut the shock tower openings and lowered the body onto the frame. 60 series has a pinch weld seam on the rear that contacts the raised pedal bucket section and keeps the body an inch higher off the frame. After the pedal bucket area the frame droops down some. Most folks either cut the rear frame section and flip it up to get closer to the body while others trim the pinch weld to get the body closer to the frame. The rear cross member sits about 9” below the bottom of tail gate.

Cutting the pinch weld to gain an inch did mot make much sense to me, little gain. Cutting and flipping the frame did not appeal to me either.

I had a 60 series 4 plus bumper for the rear with swing outs for the tire carrier and fuel cans. Checking the dimensions last night, it fits perfectly to cover the frame to body gap in the rear nicely. Going to reconfigure the rear boxed framing to receive the bumper horns. I need the bumper to place the spare tire as I am using space below for the gas tank. Win!

In the front, I had a 60 series 4plus bumper ( an 8274 winch version) that i could mount on top of the frame horns by welding 1/4” boxed section above the frame. I will fishplate top and bottom sections with 3/8” or 1/2” plate on both sides to strengthen the connections. This gets me to use the front bumper with an 8274 which I have. It also allows me to keep 80 series front OEM tow hooks as additional recovery points. Win!

Gaining a 1” body lift which allows me to run 35” tires. Win!

Checking these last night brought together a few of the key pieces of the body fitment that was holding me back from doing the body mounts. The plan is clear now!