Building An 80 Series Rearend For Desert Racing On A Budget.

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We have been running an 80 Series semi float in the back of my 4619 car since 2014. It has bee very durable considering with only one axle shaft falure. It has never bent which it dam impressive.
The goal here is build a full floater with upgraded shafts, ARB. Will bolt in and we will keep the semi floater for a complete spare you could drop in the event of an emergency during a long race like the 1000. All for less than 3500$
Here is said race truck.
1985 Toyota Truck, been running stock class (4600) since 2014.
358.jpeg
 

cruisermatt

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80 rear end is the ultimate Toyota rear end. I have started stacking up them here, I think they’re going to get valuable.

Step up the hub bolts to ARP 7/16”.
I set up a jig and have been machining a few local guys’ hubs as well as my own.
Feel free to send em down here, otherwise a drill and steady hand works too.

E7C5B218-A7A1-4E96-8068-31CA1FB608E5.jpeg
 
Joined
Dec 26, 2002
Messages
1,729
Location
Western CO and Southern Oregon
80 rear end is the ultimate Toyota rear end. I have started stacking up them here, I think they’re going to get valuable.

Step up the hub bolts to ARP 7/16”.
I set up a jig and have been machining a few local guys’ hubs as well as my own.
Feel free to send em down here, otherwise a drill and steady hand works too.

View attachment 1846125
Got a part# for the best ARP bolts?
 

cruisermatt

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I have been using ARP 753-1500 which are 7/16-20 x 1.50", the same thing in the 1.25" or 1.00" would be great with less drilling and tapping but they don't have a shank on them, the 1.5" have a shank which is the perfect length for a FF flange or an Aisin hub. It sucks they don't make a 1.00 with a shank because the extra 0.5" is really not necessary.
 
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Sweet truck Justin! What's the drivetrain?
LC Engineering 22RE
W56 tranny
4.7 front Toyota box
Dana 300 rear
Front is a diamond housing 9.5 center section with 80 series knuckle balls, hellfire knuckles, RCV shafts, ARB, 4.88s.

Suspension is interesting for leafs. We developed these over a few years with Sky Mfg and Deaver.
They are amazing in the desert.
2.0 ADS remote res 14" biggest you can run in 4600.
Just now ditching the rubber bumps due to a rule chance allows air bumps.
 

cruisermatt

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I’m surprised you didn’t cut down the long side and narrow the long side to center it, since you’re probably going to run Nitro shafts anyways right? I think they’ll make you custom length 80 shafts easily, and that way you only need one spare.

Back to the ARP bolts for a sec, if you aren’t convinced on those yet it only costs like $45 for enough to do two hubs, where I think the ARP stock replacement studs are like $60 a hub.
 
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I’m surprised you didn’t cut down the long side and narrow the long side to center it, since you’re probably going to run Nitro shafts anyways right? I think they’ll make you custom length 80 shafts easily, and that way you only need one spare.

Back to the ARP bolts for a sec, if you aren’t convinced on those yet it only costs like $45 for enough to do two hubs, where I think the ARP stock replacement studs are like $60 a hub.

I agree on the ARP 7/16.

Running the slightly offset 80 series diff is a conscious decision. I like that small offset because I can completely center the traction bar.
On the housing. I don't know for sure that that helps with strength but it packages quite nicely.
The slightly off center drive shaft has proved to not be a problem in any way.
 

cruisermatt

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Mounting the trac bar in the center would give you the least bind under articulation. Do you run a single or double carden shaft? Glad to hear the offset diff isn’t causing issues as that’s allways in the back on my mind in my setup and my offset difference is probably not as dramatic as yours.
 
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Messages
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Mounting the trac bar in the center would give you the least bind under articulation. Do you run a single or double carden shaft? Glad to hear the offset diff isn’t causing issues as that’s allways in the back on my mind in my setup and my offset difference is probably not as dramatic as yours.

Rear drive shaft just a single.
Never an issue even at 100 MPH
 
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