Building An 80 Series Rearend For Desert Racing On A Budget.

Discussion in 'HardCore Corner' started by RustyNailJustin, Dec 3, 2018 at 5:22 PM.

  1. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    We have been running an 80 Series semi float in the back of my 4619 car since 2014. It has bee very durable considering with only one axle shaft falure. It has never bent which it dam impressive.
    The goal here is build a full floater with upgraded shafts, ARB. Will bolt in and we will keep the semi floater for a complete spare you could drop in the event of an emergency during a long race like the 1000. All for less than 3500$
    Here is said race truck.
    1985 Toyota Truck, been running stock class (4600) since 2014.
    358.jpeg
     
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  2. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Here is the old rear.
    20181203_150929.jpg
     
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  3. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Another shot of the old/spare rear. 20181203_150948.jpg
     
  4. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Step 1, get a full float 80 without the crappy factory difflock.
    Step 2 cut all the bull s*** off. IMG_20181202_124654.jpg
     
  5. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Don't forget to cut the diff drain plug off and the dust shields.
    20181203_150821.jpg 20181203_150800.jpg
     
  6. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Cut yourself a drain plug, plug and weld it up. I weld inside and out to eliminate any chance it could be ripped out. 20181203_154630.jpg 20181203_155757.jpg
     
  7. matzell

    matzell SILVER Star

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    It will never work! LOL!
     
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  8. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    80 rear end is the ultimate Toyota rear end. I have started stacking up them here, I think they’re going to get valuable.

    Step up the hub bolts to ARP 7/16”.
    I set up a jig and have been machining a few local guys’ hubs as well as my own.
    Feel free to send em down here, otherwise a drill and steady hand works too.

    E7C5B218-A7A1-4E96-8068-31CA1FB608E5.jpeg
     
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  9. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Got a part# for the best ARP bolts?
     
  10. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    This is a build in progress as is the 1.8 million other things associated with race prep.
    KOH is less than 2 months out.
    Made some progress today. Ready to get shocks, traction bar
    And trussing set up. IMG_20181203_184604.jpg
     
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  11. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    I have been using ARP 753-1500 which are 7/16-20 x 1.50", the same thing in the 1.25" or 1.00" would be great with less drilling and tapping but they don't have a shank on them, the 1.5" have a shank which is the perfect length for a FF flange or an Aisin hub. It sucks they don't make a 1.00 with a shank because the extra 0.5" is really not necessary.
     
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  12. yotadude520

    yotadude520

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    Sweet truck Justin! What's the drivetrain?
     
  13. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    LC Engineering 22RE
    W56 tranny
    4.7 front Toyota box
    Dana 300 rear
    Front is a diamond housing 9.5 center section with 80 series knuckle balls, hellfire knuckles, RCV shafts, ARB, 4.88s.

    Suspension is interesting for leafs. We developed these over a few years with Sky Mfg and Deaver.
    They are amazing in the desert.
    2.0 ADS remote res 14" biggest you can run in 4600.
    Just now ditching the rubber bumps due to a rule chance allows air bumps.
     
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  14. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    I’m surprised you didn’t cut down the long side and narrow the long side to center it, since you’re probably going to run Nitro shafts anyways right? I think they’ll make you custom length 80 shafts easily, and that way you only need one spare.

    Back to the ARP bolts for a sec, if you aren’t convinced on those yet it only costs like $45 for enough to do two hubs, where I think the ARP stock replacement studs are like $60 a hub.
     
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  15. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    I agree on the ARP 7/16.

    Running the slightly offset 80 series diff is a conscious decision. I like that small offset because I can completely center the traction bar.
    On the housing. I don't know for sure that that helps with strength but it packages quite nicely.
    The slightly off center drive shaft has proved to not be a problem in any way.
     
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  16. cruisermatt

    cruisermatt ランドクル62! SILVER Star

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    Mounting the trac bar in the center would give you the least bind under articulation. Do you run a single or double carden shaft? Glad to hear the offset diff isn’t causing issues as that’s allways in the back on my mind in my setup and my offset difference is probably not as dramatic as yours.
     
  17. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Rear drive shaft just a single.
    Never an issue even at 100 MPH
     
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2018 at 8:21 PM
  18. gpfj40

    gpfj40

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    Thanks for sharing, seeing the details on toy 4600 race rigs is interesting. I’m looking forward to checking out koh this year for the first time.
     
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  19. Bad Karma

    Bad Karma

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    115_RearShocks.jpg It's a great axle, I flipped mine over for gas tank clearance.Works great!
     
  20. RustyNailJustin

    RustyNailJustin

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    Got the 3RD built with fresh 4.88s, solid pinion spacer and an ARB. IMG_20181205_201021.jpg
    IMG_20181205_183244.jpg
     
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