Builds rocks and rolls

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That is one hell of a great idea, I have struggled with engine hoists straps and whatever I can move the engine with and hope it does not move while making the engine mounts.




I did not take a good picture of the adjustable engine jig (green) that fits between the frame rails and allows you to make laterial adjustments before I fabricated to the scab plates and the chevy OEM engine mounts. Off set the engine 3/4 of inch for proper drive line allignement
 
Dude .. is your front ARB air line run out of the front of your front 3rd member . ? little exposed .. nice buildup ( pretty fast ! )
 
A couple of engine pics. Dual battery trays. Loose wiring for the front end lights etc.. Loose wiring for the TBI and and controller. Placed relays on a alumunum panel that mounts on the firewall hood ridge..
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Running all around disk brakes. Chevy monte carlo calipers in the rear and toyota OEM calipers up front. Running all steel braided lines with a brake lock inside the cab. I found an unusual master cylinder at the swap meat in Long Beach that is the operates off the same principle as a big rig. The master cylinder has a compressor and an accumulator which stores pressure. Even after the vehicle is not running (no vacuum to the booster/traditional breaking system) I still have over 20 power pumps at the pedel.
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I mounted the the engine and drive train as high into the body as possible and as a result I had to fabricate a new radiator mounting straps that lift the raditor 3inches in order to center the raditor to the fan.

Used two pieces of channel mounted to a stud that attaches to the stock placement of the cross member.

I ran two verticall rods which attache to another piece of channel on the top of the radiator. The vertical rods then tighten with nuts.

Fabricated a fan shroud that attaches to the bottom pieces of channel and to the top of the channel.

The radiator then attches to the firewall with two addjustable heim joints (rods).
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I went crazy and went with extra wide Davis alumunum radiator that I got for half price. The radiator cools extremely well 190 to 210. The only draw back to the extra wide radiator was that it was a tight fit between the headlight buckets and I had to use two different radiator hoses and mate them together.
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you got a part number on that radiator or source were to get one?
 
Couple of pics of the steering correction and the front ends rear shackles. I used a hole saw and drilled thru the frame and then used the OEM shackle hanger and machined it down to fit thru the frame. Using OEM bushings. The steering correction takes a beating so I welded some small plates to front to as gussetts. Welded some tabs to the bumper and used a old winch fairlead as a roller. Works pretty good when trying to get up on obstacles.
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Made some supper long shackles for the front and then the worst thing happened the dredded front end wobles. I made a removable panhard bar. I have since fixed the shackles and dont use the panhard bar. Using a rancho 9000 as a steering stabilizer. Lots of adjustment..
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Had alcan springs make a pair of leaf springs with the orbit eye. The springs are amazing. I then used scissor shackles. I then removed the stock shackle hanger and used a piece of rectangle rim stock and used them as shackle hangers. The springs are much longer and I pushed my wheel base back to a little over 98 inches. I bearly clear the rear gas tank at full compression..
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Nice the panhard adition .. ( I thought I need to do something like in my Tencha ) .. I'm still thinking in you rear shackles .. how they perform under a heavy braking situation .?
 
Thanks for the compliments. All around disks brakes I have the best stopping power I have ever had in a TLC. Absolutely no issues with springs or shackles in heavy breaking. I will upload pictures this weekend.
 
Cut about 3 or more inches off the rocker panel. Fabricated some rock sliders. Welded 3 oversized scab plates to the frame then drilled and tapped. Then fabricated some square stock extensions. I like the design because they are strong and removable. I then used some diamond plate aluminum sheet and cut it to match the underside of the rock sliders. Drilled and tapped with inset allen heads. They work great.
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Worked on the skid plate. Took two pieces of angle iron and bolted them to a frame. I then took some steel plate and welded to the angle iron. I had to make provisions around the the t-case. Lots of heat....
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