rocks and rolls

mrqtipp · 02-10-08, 02:07 PM

Started a fj4o project awhile ago after catistrophic trail failure. Ultimate objective to make a truck that can handle the rocks and can handle the road. I will try to keep the build in proper sequence but I did a horrible job of documenting the build. Repair and despair. Pictured is the truck prior to build and is a 1969 FJ40 nothing special to mention.

Pre build pic

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 03:49 PM

pulled engine and drive train

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 03:52 PM

pic of engine and drive train removal

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 04:02 PM

Moved to body work. Cut cancer from rear quarters

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 04:07 PM

Replaced sill/channel (cool cruiser) and welded scab plates to the rear of the sill (not picutred) for drop down tailgate I had to fabricate, pictured later in build

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 04:14 PM

welded new quarters very rough. hammered out wrinkles and grinded down welds. I unfortuntly did not take pictures of the finsihed product but they did come out very well

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 05:19 PM

I took my ambulance doors and removed the hinges on both sides and welded the two doors together. Welding the two doors together was trickey because I was to lazy to build a simple jig as a result when welding the ambulance doors together a slight warp occured but not enough to notice with the naked eye. I welded scab plates on the bottom of the doors so I could drill and tap them for hindge stock. I immediatly went way from the hindge stock when I came accross OEM hinges. I only took pictures of the finished work. Welding the doors together was much more cost effective then purchasing the (hard to find and cost prohibitive) OEM drop down tailgate

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 05:28 PM

fabricated some removable 3/8 plate hangers on sides of tailgate and made cable limiters. Pictured on sides are spare full floater axles for the rear and spares for the front. Will discuss later in the build

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:05 PM

I plan on posting the whole build. First pictures are pre catistrophic failure that started the build. Very stock

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:22 PM

I was originally going to fabricate flat fenders but then decided to cut 3 inches off the fenders and weld a small piece of pipe to the lip. Let me know what you guys think

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:34 PM

best way to get fabrication done faster
hand the grinder to your bro

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:38 PM

more fender pics

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:44 PM

Passenger side fender

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:47 PM

Had the fenders sprayed with a polyurethane linings.

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:53 PM

Made half doors and sprayed the inside with a polyurethane linings

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 06:58 PM

Pic of exterior of the doors. used all OEM hindges and door latches. no rattles

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 07:04 PM

Had to modify the transmission hump and again the key to fabrication is to get your bro to cut chop and rebuild

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 07:21 PM

Cut the transmission hump so the drive train could be removed without removing the transmission hump which as you all know sometimes requires gas tank removal and or seat removal.

Fabricated a removeable section that attaches to the hump with several quarter twenty bolts with nuts welded on the transmission hump for quick removal. I found out the hard way that I had to remove the drive train several times. I then had the hump sprayed with polyurethane linings.

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 07:41 PM

I decided to put a 22 gallon gas tank in the rear. Decided not to use the passenger side filler that came with the tank. Welded the hole up and cut a new hole in the rear of the tank and fabricated a fill spout. The rear tank will be the main tank and the OEM tank will be used to fill the rear tank via a toggle switch that operates an aux fuel pump. Additionally, I put a toggle switch that operates both fuel tank sending units so I can see fuel levels in both tanks on one autometer gauge. I then fabricated to the OEM fill spout which splits thru the floor board and attahces to the 22 gal tank. Now when I fill up the tanks I use the same fill spout and just turn the gas nozzle to right or the left

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 08:30 PM

I then gutted the 40's wiring harness and installed a 12 circuit wiring harness I picked up at the swap meet for half the price of painless harness. Installed the fuse panel on the firewall completely out of the way and accessable. So much better then the OEM buzz fuse box. The installation of the wiring harness was time consuming. Lots of solder and shrink tube.

I fabricated a panel for the gauges then installed autometers gauges. Fuel, temp, oil press, tach, speedo.

A series of toggle switches.
* KC lights
* reverse light
* under carage lights
* compressor (york) w/ storage tank (quick disconnect at the front bib)
* aux fuel tank transfer pump
* fuel tank sending unit (1 toggle operates both sending units)

ARB swtiches mounted in the ashtray

Chevy tilt steering

LC_Hamma · 02-15-08, 10:25 PM

Dam, you & yer bro can do it all

buildup! Nice to have a family member helping.... I gotta ask what's up w/ the rear shackles - are they the inversion type or ? Wish I had those wiring skillz.

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 10:41 PM

pictures of the old OEM wiring warness and picture of the autometer gauges and guage plate

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 10:50 PM

Started working on the chasis. Its sad when your trucks frame is sitting on the asphalt

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 10:52 PM

More chasis work

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 11:29 PM

Started working on the power steering and repairing frame damage. Had to replace the cross member. I hope none of you have to remove the frame rivots, they were a nightmare. Once again, hand the cut off wheel and the grinder to your bro. Measure and re-measure.

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 11:40 PM

Welded the steering correction together and painted with POR 15. POR 15 is a great rust preventive coating. Dont get any POR 15 on your skin it will be there for a couple of weeks.....

mrqtipp · 02-15-08, 11:46 PM

welded a scab plate to the frame drilled and tapped. Attached sagnaw steering box to another plate with inset allen heads. I can remove the steering gear box in less then 5 minutes if needed. Used a hole saw to cut into the cross member for the spud shaft of the sagnaw steering gear box. Attached the slip joint to the spud shaft and up to the chevy tilt steering column

mrqtipp · 02-16-08, 12:03 AM

Both plates marry up nicely and with a little fabrication time I think you come out with a better product then any other pre-fabricated power steering kit

mrqtipp · 02-16-08, 12:18 AM

Started on axles. Had my 3rd members put together with 488s by a local gear shop.

mrqtipp · 02-16-08, 12:29 AM

Bought 4x4 labs steering arms kit that includes Chevy 1-Ton ends
High angle Chevy 1-Ton Drag Link Ends and Spherical Rod Ends. I love this kit. The drag link is placed out of harms way (rear of axle above 3rd member) and corrects the steering flaws in 40s. The 4x4 labs steering arms enable the correct turning angle of the steering wheels (Ackerman Steering Principle)

02-10-08, 02:07 PM	#1
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Rocks & Rolls - FJ40 Build Up Started a fj4o project awhile ago after catistrophic trail failure. Ultimate objective to make a truck that can handle the rocks and can handle the road. I will try to keep the build in proper sequence but I did a horrible job of documenting the build. Repair and despair. Pictured is the truck prior to build and is a 1969 FJ40 nothing special to mention. Pre build pic Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:37 AM.

02-15-08, 03:49 PM	#2
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	pulled engine and drive train Attached Images

02-15-08, 03:52 PM	#3
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	pic of engine and drive train removal Attached Images

02-15-08, 04:02 PM	#4
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Moved to body work. Cut cancer from rear quarters Attached Images

02-15-08, 04:07 PM	#5
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Replaced sill/channel (cool cruiser) and welded scab plates to the rear of the sill (not picutred) for drop down tailgate I had to fabricate, pictured later in build Attached Images

02-15-08, 04:14 PM	#6
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	welded new quarters very rough. hammered out wrinkles and grinded down welds. I unfortuntly did not take pictures of the finsihed product but they did come out very well Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-15-08 at 04:20 PM.

02-15-08, 05:19 PM	#7
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	I took my ambulance doors and removed the hinges on both sides and welded the two doors together. Welding the two doors together was trickey because I was to lazy to build a simple jig as a result when welding the ambulance doors together a slight warp occured but not enough to notice with the naked eye. I welded scab plates on the bottom of the doors so I could drill and tap them for hindge stock. I immediatly went way from the hindge stock when I came accross OEM hinges. I only took pictures of the finished work. Welding the doors together was much more cost effective then purchasing the (hard to find and cost prohibitive) OEM drop down tailgate Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-23-08 at 09:06 PM.

02-15-08, 05:28 PM	#8
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	fabricated some removable 3/8 plate hangers on sides of tailgate and made cable limiters. Pictured on sides are spare full floater axles for the rear and spares for the front. Will discuss later in the build Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-15-08 at 05:39 PM.

02-15-08, 06:05 PM	#9
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	I plan on posting the whole build. First pictures are pre catistrophic failure that started the build. Very stock Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:07 AM.

02-15-08, 06:22 PM	#10
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	I was originally going to fabricate flat fenders but then decided to cut 3 inches off the fenders and weld a small piece of pipe to the lip. Let me know what you guys think Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:10 AM.

02-15-08, 06:34 PM	#11
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	best way to get fabrication done faster hand the grinder to your bro Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-15-08 at 07:24 PM.

02-15-08, 06:38 PM	#12
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	more fender pics Attached Images

02-15-08, 06:44 PM	#13
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Passenger side fender Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 05-04-08 at 02:44 PM.

02-15-08, 06:47 PM	#14
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Had the fenders sprayed with a polyurethane linings. Attached Images

02-15-08, 06:53 PM	#15
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Made half doors and sprayed the inside with a polyurethane linings Attached Images

02-15-08, 10:25 PM	#21
LC_Hamma The Anti-Leafer Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Dallas, Georgia TLCA# 3343 Posts: 1,648	Dam, you & yer bro can do it all buildup! Nice to have a family member helping.... I gotta ask what's up w/ the rear shackles - are they the inversion type or ? Wish I had those wiring skillz. __________________ '73 FJ55 http://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/76835-pig-chebby-avalanche-trim-%3D.html '73 FJ40 http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q...&addtype=local '78 FJ40 - future crawler in pieces '93 Ram W350 5 spd. SRW CTD '99 Ram 3500 4X4 5 spd. DRW CTD '74 BMW 3.0CS future project

02-15-08, 06:58 PM	#16
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Pic of exterior of the doors. used all OEM hindges and door latches. no rattles Attached Images

02-15-08, 07:04 PM	#17
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Had to modify the transmission hump and again the key to fabrication is to get your bro to cut chop and rebuild Attached Images

02-15-08, 07:21 PM	#18
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Cut the transmission hump so the drive train could be removed without removing the transmission hump which as you all know sometimes requires gas tank removal and or seat removal. Fabricated a removeable section that attaches to the hump with several quarter twenty bolts with nuts welded on the transmission hump for quick removal. I found out the hard way that I had to remove the drive train several times. I then had the hump sprayed with polyurethane linings. Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:15 AM.

02-15-08, 07:41 PM	#19
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	I decided to put a 22 gallon gas tank in the rear. Decided not to use the passenger side filler that came with the tank. Welded the hole up and cut a new hole in the rear of the tank and fabricated a fill spout. The rear tank will be the main tank and the OEM tank will be used to fill the rear tank via a toggle switch that operates an aux fuel pump. Additionally, I put a toggle switch that operates both fuel tank sending units so I can see fuel levels in both tanks on one autometer gauge. I then fabricated to the OEM fill spout which splits thru the floor board and attahces to the 22 gal tank. Now when I fill up the tanks I use the same fill spout and just turn the gas nozzle to right or the left Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:16 AM.

02-15-08, 08:30 PM	#20
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	I then gutted the 40's wiring harness and installed a 12 circuit wiring harness I picked up at the swap meet for half the price of painless harness. Installed the fuse panel on the firewall completely out of the way and accessable. So much better then the OEM buzz fuse box. The installation of the wiring harness was time consuming. Lots of solder and shrink tube. I fabricated a panel for the gauges then installed autometers gauges. Fuel, temp, oil press, tach, speedo. A series of toggle switches. * KC lights * reverse light * under carage lights * compressor (york) w/ storage tank (quick disconnect at the front bib) * aux fuel tank transfer pump * fuel tank sending unit (1 toggle operates both sending units) ARB swtiches mounted in the ashtray Chevy tilt steering Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-23-08 at 09:39 PM.

02-15-08, 10:41 PM	#22
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	pictures of the old OEM wiring warness and picture of the autometer gauges and guage plate Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-23-08 at 07:35 PM.

02-15-08, 10:50 PM	#23
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Started working on the chasis. Its sad when your trucks frame is sitting on the asphalt Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-23-08 at 08:31 PM.

02-15-08, 10:52 PM	#24
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	More chasis work Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-23-08 at 07:40 PM.

02-15-08, 11:29 PM	#25
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Started working on the power steering and repairing frame damage. Had to replace the cross member. I hope none of you have to remove the frame rivots, they were a nightmare. Once again, hand the cut off wheel and the grinder to your bro. Measure and re-measure. Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:24 AM.

02-15-08, 11:40 PM	#26
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Welded the steering correction together and painted with POR 15. POR 15 is a great rust preventive coating. Dont get any POR 15 on your skin it will be there for a couple of weeks..... Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-17-08 at 10:22 AM.

02-15-08, 11:46 PM	#27
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	welded a scab plate to the frame drilled and tapped. Attached sagnaw steering box to another plate with inset allen heads. I can remove the steering gear box in less then 5 minutes if needed. Used a hole saw to cut into the cross member for the spud shaft of the sagnaw steering gear box. Attached the slip joint to the spud shaft and up to the chevy tilt steering column Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-15-08 at 11:58 PM.

02-16-08, 12:03 AM	#28
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Both plates marry up nicely and with a little fabrication time I think you come out with a better product then any other pre-fabricated power steering kit Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-16-08 at 01:25 AM.

02-16-08, 12:18 AM	#29
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Started on axles. Had my 3rd members put together with 488s by a local gear shop. Attached Images Last edited by mrqtipp; 02-23-08 at 09:19 PM.

02-16-08, 12:29 AM	#30
mrqtipp IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 102	Bought 4x4 labs steering arms kit that includes Chevy 1-Ton ends High angle Chevy 1-Ton Drag Link Ends and Spherical Rod Ends. I love this kit. The drag link is placed out of harms way (rear of axle above 3rd member) and corrects the steering flaws in 40s. The 4x4 labs steering arms enable the correct turning angle of the steering wheels (Ackerman Steering Principle) Attached Images