Builds rocks and rolls

[LC_Hamma]

Dam, you & yer bro can do it all ;p buildup! Nice to have a family member helping.... I gotta ask what's up w/ the rear shackles - are they the inversion type or ? Wish I had those wiring skillz.

 

[mrqtipp]

pictures of the old OEM wiring warness and picture of the autometer gauges and guage plate

 

[mrqtipp]

Started working on the chasis. Its sad when your trucks frame is sitting on the asphalt

 

[mrqtipp]

More chasis work

 

[mrqtipp]

Started working on the power steering and repairing frame damage. Had to replace the cross member. I hope none of you have to remove the frame rivots, they were a nightmare. Once again, hand the cut off wheel and the grinder to your bro. Measure and re-measure.

 

[mrqtipp]

Welded the steering correction together and painted with POR 15. POR 15 is a great rust preventive coating. Dont get any POR 15 on your skin it will be there for a couple of weeks.....

 

[mrqtipp]

welded a scab plate to the frame drilled and tapped. Attached sagnaw steering box to another plate with inset allen heads. I can remove the steering gear box in less then 5 minutes if needed. Used a hole saw to cut into the cross member for the spud shaft of the sagnaw steering gear box. Attached the slip joint to the spud shaft and up to the chevy tilt steering column

 

[mrqtipp]

Both plates marry up nicely and with a little fabrication time I think you come out with a better product then any other pre-fabricated power steering kit

 

[mrqtipp]

Started on axles. Had my 3rd members put together with 488s by a local gear shop.

 

[mrqtipp]

Bought 4x4 labs steering arms kit that includes Chevy 1-Ton ends
High angle Chevy 1-Ton Drag Link Ends and Spherical Rod Ends. I love this kit. The drag link is placed out of harms way (rear of axle above 3rd member) and corrects the steering flaws in 40s. The 4x4 labs steering arms enable the correct turning angle of the steering wheels (Ackerman Steering Principle)

 

[mrqtipp]

Full floater rear axle with disk brakes (chevy calipers). Front axle with OEM disk brakes. 488's with ARB's. Dont forget to set up the front axles using a manual to set the shims up correctly

 

[mrqtipp]

Started making preperations for the engine and drive train. I went with the sm420, ranger torque splitter and an orion transfer case. I did not want to use AA adaptors so went with a CNC aluminum adaptor plate that mates the SM420 to the transfer case.

 

[mrqtipp]

I originally decided to go with sm420, ranger torque splitter and an orion transfer case. I wanted to mount the engine and drive train as far forward as possible away from the firewall. After a ton of measurements I welded scab plates to the frame and later in the build used OEM GM motor mounts.

 

[mrqtipp]

Used a lift to place engine and drive train into frame rails

 

[mrqtipp]

I did not take a good picture of the adjustable engine jig (green) that fits between the frame rails and allows you to make laterial adjustments before I fabricated to the scab plates and the chevy OEM engine mounts. Off set the engine 3/4 of inch for proper drive line allignement

 

[mrqtipp]

Used a hand crank (red) attached to the roll bar to with chains and a turn buckle to allign the drive train up, down and laterally. The tub ended up being a rolling storage shed.

 

[venpick]

Buy an 80

funny.

1 allready bought the 40
2 wanna go wheelin?

;p

 

[mrqtipp]

After I got the allignment I wanted, I took chevy OEM engine mounts and fabricated a plate that bolted to the engine mounts. After I got the propper alignment I used cardboard to make a templete. Then cut some plate that went between the engine mount plate and the frame scab plate. Bolts are accesable and the engine mounts can be removed in a snap

 

[mrqtipp]

Made a lock washer to retain the input gear of the transfer case gear onto the output shaft of the sm420. I had to center punch one of the raised teeth on the original washer for the sm420 output shaft. I then drilled a 3/16 inch hole in the tooth and made sure that the hole was completely within the tooth. Then I drilled a 3/16 hole through a fender washer installed on the sm420 washer. Drive a 3/16 x 3/4 inch roll pin into the two holes and bend the fender washer over head of the bolt.

I then fabricated a crossmember that bolts up to the ORION. Welded scab plates to the frame drilled and tapped. Then fabed up some angle iron plates that bolt to the scab plates. Used puck like bushing between angle iron and the crossmember. Used lots of RTV on the crossmember support that bolts to ORION

 

[venpick]

by the way mrqtipp your 40 is awesome. very nice