Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (1 Viewer)

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Don't do it.


Don't do the green.


It will be the same color mine will be when I am done.
 
"""Bodywork is really confusing to me because no one does anything the same way. Everyone uses different products in different orders and there is no concrete way to do things."""

Couldn't agree more..tomato tomatoe.... I was looking for a step by step, best way/wrong way, process to do my body work. To no avail.
I did start with rear sill first ( no brainer) then did full quarters, now Im on drivers side rear fender and bed pan.
I had no idea what Im doing.. but going slow and doing lots of research is the name of my game!!
 
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""Today I went to Harbor freight and bought the 3" electric cutoff tool. I hate spot weld cutters. Drilling a pilot hole followed by a step drill goes faster for me. ""

I was thinking the same thing about it being faster and easier... but then I realized I didn't need to drill a hole all the way through both panels.

Now I try to just cut the top weld on the panel Im replacing and the grind off the "button" on the piece Im keeping.

When I install new panel I will have pre drilled all my holes so that I can "spotweld"

I know it may cause a couple of extra steps, but it will allow me better access in most cases.
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For example, if I had drilled the spot weld completely out, I would have had to weld from the bottom, which would require completely removing my gas tank...
So I just drilled through top panel with spot welder cutter and stopped before I went too far. Then I will grind off all the little buttons.
 
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""Today I went to Harbor freight and bought the 3" electric cutoff tool. I hate spot weld cutters. Drilling a pilot hole followed by a step drill goes faster for me. ""

I was thinking the same thing about it being faster and easier... but then I realized I didn't need to drill a hole all the way through both panels.

Now I try to just cut the top weld on the panel Im replacing and the grind off the "button" on the piece Im keeping.

When I install new panel I will have pre drilled all my holes so that I can "spotweld"

I know it may cause a couple of extra steps, but it will allow me better access in most cases.
View attachment 1354517 View attachment 1354518
For example, if I had drilled the spot weld completely out, I would have had to weld from the bottom, which would require completely removing my gas tank...
So I just drilled through top panel with spot welder cutter and stopped before I went too far. Then I will grind off all the little buttons.

Nice work,I had the luxury of removing metal that didn't need to be saved.
 
Man your rig is looking really good. I had never seen that green in person until a few weeks ago. I went to the Land Cruiser Heritage museum in SLC, one of my favorite Cruisers there was a green FJ45. I'm not normally a green lover, but to me that color just belongs on a Toyota Land Cruiser
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Man your rig is looking really good. I had never seen that green in person until a few weeks ago. I went to the Land Cruiser Heritage museum in SLC, one of my favorite Cruisers there was a green FJ45. I'm not normally a green lover, but to me that color just belongs on a Toyota Land Cruiser View attachment 1356428

Thank you. I really like the green as well(although I really like the other 40 colors too.) The museum is on my list of places to visit, maybe I'll do a road trip when the resto is finished.
 
Jdc1,
I finally made it thru all 28 pages of your progress so far and all I can say is great work/excited to see what is next. I have slower satellite internet at home and the pictures take awhile to load. . . that and the website keeps kicking my login out every so often and I get all the advertising then.

For what its worth Id stick with the original green. . . you have gone thru all the other trouble of taking the truck back to original and it would seem fitting to go back to the correct color. I think its a great color as well -- I have not seen too many FJ40s in Rustic Green but it looks great on the truck even in the faded/original state.

Keep up to good work!!
 
Jdc1,
I finally made it thru all 28 pages of your progress so far and all I can say is great work/excited to see what is next. I have slower satellite internet at home and the pictures take awhile to load. . . that and the website keeps kicking my login out every so often and I get all the advertising then.

For what its worth Id stick with the original green. . . you have gone thru all the other trouble of taking the truck back to original and it would seem fitting to go back to the correct color. I think its a great color as well -- I have not seen too many FJ40s in Rustic Green but it looks great on the truck even in the faded/original state.

Keep up to good work!!

Thanks for the kind words. It will be staying Rustic Green. I am really excited to see it progress. The body/paint shop that it is in came highly regarded from another 40 owner that has had them do two other projects. They are very meticulous and excited to do the 40.

After seeing their work and in our discussions about the project, it is in very capable hands.
 
I just got a 211 and love it! Im glad you mentioned that about the smaller wire size because I was thinking about stepping down from the .030 Ive been running. A guy in my shop said .030 would be fine but hes much more experienced than I am and could probably stick weld circles around me. Im no trying to save my tub though, too far gone. Just patching it here and there to get me by until I buy one. Its a good learning experience for when I take on some of the other issues with parts Im not replacing.
 
I just got a 211 and love it! Im glad you mentioned that about the smaller wire size because I was thinking about stepping down from the .030 Ive been running. A guy in my shop said .030 would be fine but hes much more experienced than I am and could probably stick weld circles around me. Im no trying to save my tub though, too far gone. Just patching it here and there to get me by until I buy one. Its a good learning experience for when I take on some of the other issues with parts Im not replacing.

I really like the .023 vs. .030. It, a copper backer and the butt clamps make the tack welds really small. I don't have any experience but was able to run a little more voltage.

Underside:

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The new body shop you took it to looks like they are really getting after it. I'm impressed, looks great.

Thanks. There was 3 guys on it today. Their goal is to have as much metalwork and alignment done before blasting in January.
 
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