Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (2 Viewers)

[Jdc1]

This afternoon, I let the torpedo heater run for about an hour and spent a few hours in the garage.

Started to run the Dakota wires from the senders through the firewall, sealed the sensors and double checked anything that I could get my wrench on.

I also built the fuel hard line from the pump to the carb. This would have been 100 times easier with the engine on the stand. Toyota olives and nuts were used at both ends. The freshly painted AC compressor and alternator bracket got installed for the last time.

 

[Jdc1]

The only cable running from the Dakota controller to the Guage cluster is a Cat5. All of the original wiring to the guages needs to be taken offline. I did not want to make any modifications to the work of art that Coolerman provided. The power to the harness goes through the ammeter connection. With it not being used a brass bolt and some shrink tubing is the simple answer.

 

[mrboatman]

Your truck is looking good !!
JP

 

[Jdc1]

Your truck is looking good !!
JP

Thank you.

After connecting the ammeter terminals, I installed the Alternator and AC compressor and buttoned up a few things in the passenger side of the engine. And then just for kicks, I bumped the starter with the key. It has a pulse.

 

[Jdc1]

I thought that it might be a good idea to get the cowl vent installed before anything else goes behind the dash.

 

[Jdc1]

After standing on my head installing the cowl vent, I spent some time on the rear crossmember. @davework ’s Overland Metric stainless kits once again made things easy.

 

[Jdc1]

Today, I spent time on the auxiliary block. All of the added accessories will be completely separate from the main harness. There is a tab on the back of the fuse block that I used to trigger a relay for ignition power and the lower half of the aux block will be constant power. Once I build the rest of the auxiliary harness, the bracket will be painted.

 

[Jdc1]

After spending some time swapping shocks/struts brakes and tires onto the family truckster, I have been picking away at the 72.

The ignition power relay is wired and working properly. I am waiting for the fuse block jumpers to complete wiring the Dakota and then will attempt to fire this thing up. @RAGINGMATT supplied the dimmer switch. The GPS speedo doesn’t use any cables on the transfer case. I searched for a plug but decided to have a buddy make one.

 

[Jdc1]

This morning I spent some time finalizing the battery tray and the fuel lines back to the filter. The 60 oil cooler and the fuel filter bracket want to be in the same spot. I utilized the Armstrong technique to modify the bracket.

Don’t worry Ryan, I haven’t addressed the brownish color on some of the hardware yet.

 

[Jdc1]

The Dakota Cluster is 75% complete. I’ve got to wire the turn signals, high beam indicator and the speedo/temp module then clean up and wrap the wiring.

 

[Jdc1]

Last week, the family and I took a road trip down to Midway, GA and bummed around the coast for a few days. Since the last road trip a few years ago the minivan has been replaced with a ‘14 Sequoia SR5.

I picked up the latest round of paint today and assembled the pedal bucket. It should be ready to install along with the steering column after the horn wire is repaired. Then on to the booster and master cylinders.....

 

[Jdc1]

Also, got the City Racer, cowl vent gasket. The linkage needs a little more adjustment and it’ll drop in permanently.

 

[Baja73]

You're just showing off now!

Looks AWESOME!

Also, got the City Racer, cowl vent gasket. The linkage needs a little more adjustment and it’ll drop in permanently.

View attachment 1945234

Does your cowl vent operate? It took a little finessing but I got mine operational.

 

[Jdc1]

Does your cowl vent operate? It took a little finessing but I got mine operational.

Yes, it wanted to bind but I got it adjusted. Now I’ll have to start over because the lid doesn’t line up. The AC evaporator blocks the knob so once that’s installed it won’t be opened.

 

[Jdc1]

Fuel tank is ready to install.

 

[Jdc1]

I have been moving pretty slowly on the ‘72. I ended up punting the early fan shroud and installed a later shroud which clears the AC perfectly and looks better (thanks @ginmtb ).

The City Racer booster, Aisin brake master, pedal bucket and inner steering shaft are all approximately in the area that they will live. More to come hopefully sooner rather than later.

 

[Baja73]

Beautiful. That’s all I can say.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Gotdang, that's clean work. I'm hipmotized by all the shiny parts.

It doesn't matter, but technically the 71 fuel filter has a threaded hose from filter to pump. The almost identical 73-78 double barbed filter would be a good fit there, eliminating the unsupported metal line.

Does that E-73 fuel sender work with the DD cluster? I ask because it is the obsolete early sender that is not a variable resistor. It is a bimetallic arm that is heated by current from gage, and clicks open & closed, with dwell time affected by how far the float arm has pushed up on the bimetallic. If it doesn't play nice, the 74-78 sender is a conventional variable resistor type.

I have that same fuel sender in my 1962. Fun fact, it is stamped RK45V, which means designed for R-powered Stout truck, Van body. Dunno what a Stout van looks like.

 

[Jdc1]

Gotdang, that's clean work. I'm hipmotized by all the shiny parts.

It doesn't matter, but technically the 71 fuel filter has a threaded hose from filter to pump. The almost identical 73-78 double barbed filter would be a good fit there, eliminating the unsupported metal line.

Does that E-73 fuel sender work with the DD cluster? I ask because it is the obsolete early sender that is not a variable resistor. It is a bimetallic arm that is heated by current from gage, and clicks open & closed, with dwell time affected by how far the float arm has pushed up on the bimetallic. If it doesn't play nice, the 74-78 sender is a conventional variable resistor type.

I have that same fuel sender in my 1962. Fun fact, it is stamped RK45V, which means designed for R-powered Stout truck, Van body. Dunno what a Stout van looks like.

Thanks, Jim. I’ve got the later fuel filter, I’ll look at switching it out.

I haven’t studied the section on setting up the fuel sender for the Dakota yet. But if I am understanding the overview, it is adaptable but will need to be calibrated to the sender. I’m going to attempt to use a stock male plug to tap into the existing harness at the gauge cluster. The headlights and high beam signals are there too for the Dakota controller.

 

[Jdc1]

The Dakota sub harness into the original was a success. Ignition 12+, headlights, high beams, 4x4 light, and turn signal indicators all into the original plugs.