Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
2,761
Location
Akron, OH
With the added depth of the Dakota guage pod, the screws from Overland Metric were just a few mm too short. A quick PM to @davework and I had the solution in my hands. Thanks, Dave.

I also was able to test fit the 2 piece radiator shroud one last time. It’s going to make things a lot easier if it ever has to come apart again(hopefully not).

I have been picking away at small items and filled the engine with oil. I should be close to firing it up as soon as I have the gauges wired and a fuel line to the carb.

The first round of black turned out really well and will put us closer to finishing this build.

B9B5654D-D357-420A-9666-4EB13AFDF173.jpeg


8E47E89C-7D3F-4161-B64A-112A927D0AA7.jpeg


18CEF55B-6AC3-47FF-9A84-E2E367DD3644.jpeg


771B222C-BDDB-42B5-A027-A543B6544F3E.jpeg


02198269-10BE-40B8-A9D0-217ED4E9E480.jpeg
 

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
2,761
Location
Akron, OH
Good morning, Mud. Hopefully everyone is staying warm and safe. I have both of my gas furnaces turned off and have been feeding the word stove and forced air wood furnace every few hours.

Aside from a lot of small details I am not making any monumental strides forward. I managed to pick up another small batch of black parts and assemble the license plate bracket. As soon as the weather warms back up into typical February temps, I should be able to get back into the garage.

E7465A8E-245A-4869-AE9F-64211FFFC1E1.jpeg


0BBA124C-25BC-4556-8278-6BB255BFE827.jpeg


8D0D386C-550E-40C1-B9AD-6BFE0DCF9901.jpeg


85072CEC-DCD8-4BB9-A8B7-D1BA90EEAF83.jpeg
 

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
2,761
Location
Akron, OH
Same, It’s freezing over here. I can’t get the garage warm enough. :mad:

Looking Great!
Your build is wrapping up nicely. Can’t wait to see it on the road.

Are you still making the 4speed data plates for the glove box?
 

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
2,761
Location
Akron, OH
Looking very nice.

The alternator is shown upside down. Here's a pic of it oriented correctly.View attachment 1894710
Thanks Jim, the Alt is in “what if” mode in the pic. Making sure everything fits and works together has been somewhat of a chore on this build. While I have your attention, do both of the distributor ports need to be vented? We will not be using a charcoal cannister or any of the emissions equipment. Gas tank is pre ‘72 style.

0AA35F0B-B7DD-466D-B9E7-0D807F761246.jpeg
 

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
 
 
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
10,420
Location
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
Yes, it's best to have both dissy cap fittings open. Usually the larger one is connected to a fresh air filter. A disposable plastic fuel filter is good for this.
The smaller fitting can go to a fitting on the air cleaner. This will pull 'dirty' air from the dissy. An alternative is to connect to a small ported vac fitting.
 

rkymtnflyfisher

I’m going fishing
SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
4,383
Location
Montana
Wait, I found a picher of an '85 ignition system in a 1962 chassis:
View attachment 1896112

What about those of us that run an early air filter housing and the large cap dizzy?

You mentioned a small ported vacuum, can you provide some more info on that?

Right now I don’t have anything hooked up to the dizzy to provide fresh air to the inside. I’ve been wondering if I could use an open small port on the intake manifold to provide circulation or would that lead to a troublesome vacuum leak.
 

FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
 
 
Joined
Sep 26, 2003
Messages
10,420
Location
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
Use one of the unneeded smog ports on the air cleaner, or add a port using a threaded barb.

Some years of carb (78-87?) have 2 ported vac fittings. On those, use the one with a small hole for dissy vent and large hole for dissy vac advance.

A full time vacuum leak into the manifold is bad. A tiny vac leak at the carb that is only applied at higher speeds is unnoticeable.
 

rkymtnflyfisher

I’m going fishing
SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
4,383
Location
Montana
Use one of the unneeded smog ports on the air cleaner, or add a port using a threaded barb.

Some years of carb (78-87?) have 2 ported vac fittings. On those, use the one with a small hole for dissy vent and large hole for dissy vac advance.

A full time vacuum leak into the manifold is bad. A tiny vac leak at the carb that is only applied at higher speeds is unnoticeable.

Thank you, I’ll search my carb for an extra fitting. I’m running a non-US spec 80-something carb.

I’d rather not drill my air filter housing. It’s a non-US model also.
 

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
2,761
Location
Akron, OH
One from a late model FJ43, non-US rig, it looks like the 1F air filter housing but has a little different top that raises up a little more.

I can get some pics tomorrow.
Does yours have the slide and rear warm air inlet that faces the exhaust manifold(similar to what we are using)?
 

Jdc1

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
2,761
Location
Akron, OH
This morning, I received a call from the plater that my bucket of parts was ready to be picked up. 3 days turnaround is great. This was the first time that I’ve had anything plated and I was a little apprehensive when he told me that I didn’t need to clean or blast anything. The results were better than expected. If I had to do anything over, I might have spent some time wirewheeling some of the larger pieces.

1899514


I also swapped the fuel pump out for an early 2f pump without return line. This will make plumbing a lot easier. My first attempt at bending line was a failure. The Oreilly 5/16” wouldn’t take a 90 without kinking. I have some better quality tubing on the way.

1899513


1899516


After searching for awhile, I was finally able to source the new OEM door handles. The originals were in pretty poor shape and the replacements were about the same cost as having the originals chromed.

1899515
 
Top Bottom