Removal of custom 3 link coil over suspension and similar on rear (1 Viewer)

[BlueMarblePA]

I am considering buying a FJ40 local to me.
It has a custom 3 link coil over suspension n the front and probably 4 link in the rear.
I am having it evaluated by a mud mechanic, but should safety be a consideration, how difficult or expensive is it to go back to stock? It doesn't seem easy to remove this as it has been welded in. Obviously, I would also have to buy the leaf springs and suspension, etc.

 

[shawnfj40]

It’s impossible to tell from one picture. Why are you removing it?

 

[bikersmurf]

Safety with any modifications is always a concern. A linked coil suspension has the potential to work much better than stock. I’d work with what is there rather than going back to stock.

Getting the parts to go back to stock shouldn’t be too difficult... but it’ll depend a lot on how much you’ll have to recreate to go back.

 

[74fj40]

Those look like radius arms. The pan hard bar will keep the axle from moving side to side which is a movement you will always have with leaf springs.

What does the front suspension look like? If all the bushings are in good shape and the link geometry is good, I would leave it..

 

[BlueMarblePA]

I need to have a good mechanic look this over before purchase, but I had sent images to someone who sells kits for fj40, and he was suspicious of the panhard arms being 80 series tie rod ends which made him question the entire construction. As a noobie, I don't think I selected the right picture.
I am not committed to removing it, but I was just considering options before purchase.

 

[74fj40]

The overall fabrication quality doesn’t look bad.

I don’t have a ton of link experience but I don’t love the idea of tie rod ends being used for a track bar/pan hard bar. I would rather see hiems or clevite style bushings with a double shear mount on both ends.

 

[Rock40]

I'll weigh in. Overall the fab and welding on that looks much better than your average link swap. However, using tie rod ends as an attachment point for a panhard (or any other link) is completely wrong. They need to be large joints like a Johnny Joint, heim or similar. Strength is the issue and my guess is the builder wanted them to be "adjustable" and probably cheaped out with parts that were lying around in the shop. The coils are probably 80 series also from the look of them.

That being said, I wouldn't completely discount buying that truck. A linked 40 (if done correctly) will handle absolutely wonderfully on the street and even better offroad. Somebody did spend a lot of time on the fab work from just the few pictures you posted. I'd use it as a bargaining tool because you're going to need new control links in order to eliminate the tie rod ends. I'd certainly want to do a pretty extensive test ride to evaluate the ride characteristics too, that isn't going to change by swapping the tie rods out.

 

[Rock40]

Some pictures of the front axle with the steering geometry shown also would be great. I've been driving my fully linked 40 for 7 years now and it'll do 80mph no problem. It has to be done correctly though.

 

[Bripars40]

Another thing to think about is the flex with those 80 series arms. Take a look at the flex on the front of an 80 series and it will reflect how your rear suspension will or will not flex.

 

[Bripars40]

Any updates @BlueMarblePA

 

[BlueMarblePA]

Still waiting to get the vehicle to mechanic. Seller said he had to reschedule. I thought about trying to get to see it again this weekend and take better pictures but family duties prevailed.

To be honest, I am so new at this that when I took the pictures I did not realize that the undercarriage was not stock. Only when I got home and studied it did I realize what was there.

 

[Rock40]

Pictures = Free MUD advice without having to haul it to a mechanic. Does he have a background with FJ40's?

 

[cruisermatt]

You need to post a TON more pictures.

Like others said, the actual quality of the work doesn’t look bad at all (which is usual when trucks like this are for sale), however some of the parts choices are, the tie-rod ends for panhard joints for example.
Besides those joints being inadequate the brackets they are attached to are as well. I would immediately redo this panhards with heims and new brackets from Ruffstuff, TMR, or Barnes.

 

[brian]

Not worth it if you want the oe look and feel.

 

[Rock40]

Not worth it if you want the oe look and feel.

Lol, true. And if you have any loose dental fittings the stock stuff will knock them right out

 

[BlueMarblePA]

@dciblair helped me out today and showed me a lot of goodies
When he lifted the fj40 on a lift, it seems the 80 series coils just kind of came out of their perch. See image #1

Also, when the vehicle is lifted, the angle of the panhard brings the driver side rear tire in contact with the springs. It rubs. Now this may be an unusually extreme situation. Some options include narrower rear tire, spacer on rear driver side only. Image #2, #3

 

[BlueMarblePA]

Here are some more pictures as well.

 

[BlueMarblePA]

and some more

 

[brian]

the only thing keeping the springs from falling out of an 80 series when lifted like that, are the shocks and anti sway bars.
seems to me the shocks are too long...some limit straps would fix that.
i can tell from first hand that an 80 with no sways has a good bit of body roll when driven aggressively into corners....ie on and off ramps.
interesting idea, 3 links under a 40 series.....but not something i would want unless the price was super right.

 

[White Stripe]

Looks like it needs some limit straps. And I would get rid of the tie rod end for the panhard and use a jonnie joint or something instead. Minor issues. Adding some coilovers to the rear and getting rid of the coils would also give more tire clearance out back. I imagine it drives fairly decent. Wonder what the caster readings are. As mentioned may need sway bars.