‘64 FJ40 3-link guidance (1 Viewer)

[Adam Scherm]

Hello gang, I’m looking for some guidance on my upcoming phase of my ‘64 FJ40 build.

Here is current stats on vehicle and intended use:

Chevy 350 (Sniper EFI)
Turbo 350 transmission
4.3:1 Atlas
Disc brake 14b
4.88’s w/ARBs
SOA in rear on Wagoneer 44044’s flipped
97” wheel base
37” tires

Trailered mostly, but still want to be able to highway drive to trail if needed.

I’ll be running a GM D60 up front with a full truss and want to push axle forward approx 3-5”

Plan is to run a 3-link with coilovers. If my pocketbook would allow it, I’d drop it off with Georg @orangefj45 but that’s not in the cards currently. Any photos or tips are appreciated.

Here is a photo of the stats for the 3-link plan and my current setup.

36” links (upper and lowers)
Upper on Diff, running just above my driveshaft.

Any guidance is appreciated, especially for panhard and frame plating. I’ll be running a Saginaw box and will have it rebuilt and tapped for hydro-assist

 

[charliemeyer007]

Can't help, awesome build IMHO. I like your roll cage 3 full "D's" is my choice too.

 

[AgentOrange]

I just did this on my 80. I would definitely try to get a bit more vertical separation at the axle end of those links. Around 9 would be fantastic, but 8 would be at least reasonable. Only other thing I'll note is if you can raise your panhard a bit more. Other than that, it looks close to me. I'm sure some more knowledgeable people will chime in soon with better info.

 

[orangefj45]

Swing by sometime and look at my setup. Works EXTREMELY well and it’s 100% potty-trained. Anybody can get in my buggy and wheel it; it’s got no nasty suspension habits.

Currently the buggy is in TX but it’ll be back in May.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[EWheeler]

Swing by sometime and look at my setup. Works EXTREMELY well and it’s 100% potty-trained. Anybody can get in my buggy and wheel it; it’s got no nasty suspension habits.

Currently the buggy is in TX but it’ll be back in May.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

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"Build" thread here with some photos:

Long Overdue 77FJ40 Build thread

www.pirate4x4.com

 

[mano002]

Your plan is similar to how I built mine. I wish I had another truck to measure off-of, as I have needed several iterations to work out what all of the outputs of the calculator mean and how they feel. I'm still not "done". You want to make sure you have no roll over-steer, as that feels terrifying on the road. When your axle droops, make sure your pinion rotates up, so you don't run out of u-joint angle.

Just looking at the screenshot, I would say that 4000lbs is light with 1-tons. Mine weighs 5900lbs with the hard-top and fenders. My COG is 37.5" and we measured that using scales and lifting the front with a 2-post hoist.

 

[Mike Shull]

I’d recommend to shorten those uppers a bit. I made mine about 75% the length of the lowers per recommendations from folks on here. I haven’t driven it yet but it did package better this way near the front of the transmission.

 

[Firemedic831]

I do not think you are going to get 5 inches out of the front unless you go full hydro steering .

 

[Firemedic831]

My upper link mounts right were the old factory trans mount was. fwiw

 

[Adam Scherm]

My upper link mounts right were the old factory trans mount was. fwiw

That’s essentially where I have mine templated to go. Did you box/plate your frame in any specific areas? I know that area is boxed, but lots of cutouts there from factory

 

[Mike Shull]

That’s essentially where I have mine templated to go. Did you box/plate your frame in any specific areas? I know that area is boxed, but lots of cutouts there from factory

I added an additional scab plate to my upper link frame mount and it welds the top and lower part of the c-channel together as the inner frame piece on a 40 is quite thin and I wanted to create a sturdy mounting point.

 

[Mike Shull]

Here is a picture of my upper link mount and scab plate.

 

[Adam Scherm]

I added an additional scab plate to my upper link frame mount and it welds the top and lower part of the c-channel together as the inner frame piece on a 40 is quite thin and I wanted to create a sturdy mounting point.

Great. If you ever find yourself underneath, I’d love to see some pics of your link mounts

 

[Mike Shull]

Sure. I’ll have to get some better pictures when I am home again but here are some incidental pictures when I was working on the body. Below is also a link to the build where I started working on the suspension. If you happen to go back a page don’t pay attention to my calculator pictures as those measurements changed later on. Also, I haven’t driven it yet with this setup so it is not tested.

Post in thread 'Stretched 1-Ton FJ40'
Builds - Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stretched-1-ton-fj40.1253008/post-14416664

 

[Firemedic831]

Go in the Hardcore section . There are several good builds you can see that have linked suspension. I have been plating the frame on the Old Blue build . But it mimics the Honey Badger build .

 

[Adam Scherm]

I do not think you are going to get 5 inches out of the front unless you go full hydro steering .

You mean pushing the axle up to 5” forward? I figure that may be tough, but I’m hoping for 3” at least. Any real world examples would be helpful

 

[Firemedic831]

The steering will be your limiting factor with pushing the front axle forward. You can push the rear back 4 inches easily though

 

[Adam Scherm]

I got a little chalk drawing going of the axle, and lower link angles. Looks like I need closer to 15* of angle for the lower links. Everyone makes a 10 or 20*. Any thoughts? I’m kind of forced to keep the lowers real wide at the axle and the frame is obviously narrow.

 

[Mike Shull]

My lowers are 0*. I narrowed my axle to 63” WMS so yours might be different depending on your width. My upper is also 0*.

 

[Adam Scherm]

My lowers are 0*. I narrowed my axle to 63” WMS so yours might be different depending on your width. My upper is also 0*.

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I’m going to run full width, so it’s 69” WMS so it matches my rear 14b.
20* seems REALLY triangulated, I’m hoping 10* is good, for both axle and frame mounts.

Anyone else have experience with angled mounts?