Builds Reddog90's 40 Thread

[reddog90]

You da man Matt! Can't wait to get all that stuff in. On the brake lines, I don't think I will need them. The backing plate eliminator kit I ordered from Mark comes with stainless lines that go from the caliper to the axle housing. Feel free to keep those lines or I can mail them back to you with my old calipers.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Will Do , Thanks .......

 

[74GreenFJ]

@reddog90, where did you buy the gear oil pump/bucket? I'm about to start a fluids refresh on my rig and would like to get a similar set up, thanks!

 

[reddog90]

@reddog90, where did you buy the gear oil pump/bucket? I'm about to start a fluids refresh on my rig and would like to get a similar set up, thanks!

The bucket is what the gear oil came in. I got the pump on amazon:

Amazon.com: Lumax LX-1300 Black Lever-Action Bucket Pump for 5 Gallon Pails: Automotive

Buy Lumax LX-1300 Black Lever-Action Bucket Pump for 5 Gallon Pails: Sports & Outdoors - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Someone left a review on amazon that theirs leaked in the blue circle and suggested sealing it with black permetex, so that's what I did. Make sure the nut in the red circle is tight or you will get a small leak on every pump. Move your bucket around carefully when using the pump or buy a bucket dolly.

 

[74GreenFJ]

Thank you!

 

[reddog90]

I stopped by Javier's at lunch to see if they could get this cup out of my drag link end. They happened to be doing an FJ60 PS conversion today, so I scored this instead:

@RAGINGMATT I'll mail you my old drag link end with my calipers if this one works.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Pretty cool build so far, I like it!

 

[reddog90]

Drivers side ready for backing plates from Mark's Offroad and brakes from Matt.

Tore down passenger side yesterday. It looked worse than drivers side with some corrosion inside the knuckle ball and a lot of the grease was thick and brown. Got the birf cleaned and packed. Cleaned the knuckle housing, arm, and cap well. I can't get the old bearing cage off the cap, will have to take it to Javier's with my hub assemblies this week.

 

[FARMAN33]

It makes me happier than you know to see you tackling all these jobs (and doing them right). Your contributions to the forum will last long into the years as people reference the difficulties and solutions along the way. Feel free to ring me up anytime you need a garage day!

 

[reddog90]

Thanks Brian. Mud and the mudders I've met have been invaluable, so I try to chronicle here to contribute what I can. I might hit you up for a lift soon!

 

[reddog90]

One thing I didn't seem to find on here is if it's kosher to get some damage on the birf end of the inner axle when separating the birf. I used the pipe method on both axles. They both had a tiny chip like this:

I assume it's nothing to be worried about since that is tucked inside the birf and the groove will clearly still hold the snap ring just fine?

 

[reddog90]

Back plate eliminators and stainless hoses from Marks Offroad.

Took my new OEM rotors and old hubs to Javier's, a local cruiser shop. They blasted and painted my hubs, installed my bearing races, mounted and trued the rotors. Ran out of time last night and didn't get the caliper on. I reused the small triangle washer tabs from my Warn hubs. New hub studs, split washers and nuts from Marlin Crawler. Preload is right at 11 lbs. @cruiseroutfit instructions say 6.6 - 13.2 lb. but FSM says 4 - 8.4 lb.

 

[reddog90]

Got both knuckles back together. Rebuilt drag link end and started reinstalling steering linkage. I forgot to mark the pitman arm and gearbox with a punch before pulling the pitman arm so this will be interesting getting everything centered again. I have 5.5 total turns of steering wheel travel. So with the wheel centered centered I have 2.5 turns right and 3 turns left.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Easy as Pie ....................

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks red dog for the speedy core return

 

[reddog90]

I had installed the pitman arm slightly off a few days ago. So last night I took the fender off, removed the pitman arm keeping the drag link attached, double checked the drag link length, centered the steering box sector shaft, and reinstalled the pitman arm. Match line on the sector shaft is supposed to line up with the casting line on the box, but mine does not. FSM also shows the match line on the pitman arm lining up with the match line on the sector shaft, but mine isn't perfect. Everything seems to work pefectly though. Then I popped the steering wheel off and recentered it.

I'm happy to report that the truck drives much better. No wandering on the road, steering is much tighter and more responsive. And my front passenger caliper must have been the culprit for the pull to the left upon braking, because it brakes perfectly straight now. I do get a spongy brake pedal if I gently brake to slow down, but firm pedal if I hit it hard. I haven't gone through my drums yet, so I don't know if the problem is there or the booster. The wife pumped the brakes while I bled the front calipers and I am confident I got all the air out.

I did my own alignment following posts on here using some scrap metal clamped to the calipers. I am running 3/8" toe in right now.

 

[reddog90]

I ordered a new MC from @Cruiser Corps, booster from @Racer65, wheel cylinders from @cruiseroutfit and Centric drums and shoes from RockAuto to round out this brake refresh.

 

[reddog90]

Swapped the Cruiser Corps MC for an Aisin unit from @Racer65. I’ve had to order a few small brake lines from @Rainman as well. New OME heavy kit on the way from @cruiseroutfit.

 

[reddog90]

Waiting on my last brake line from @Rainman. Then I'll need to get through adjusting the WCs and bleeding the system. Anyone know if I can rotate the check valve on the booster clockwise slightly to change the angle of the hose?

I also locked down an old 8274 to rebuild, will pick it up in LA in May. Time to switch bumpers. My OEM will be for sale.

 

[reddog90]

Got everything buttoned up and bled. I'm getting a long pedal, I need to double check my booster rod clearance against the MC. I am pretty sure my WCs are adjusted good enough.

I got my new bumper from @lcwizard and it is awesome. I scuffed it with 320, primed it with Dupli Color DAP1690, and painted with Dupli Color SS100 which is an exact match to OEM pewter. I let it dry an hour, then polished it with a clean cotton rag. I shook the piss out of the can before every coat and I still couldn't get the flake to lay down even. Polishing with a clean rag removed some of the excess and made it look a little better. I haven't decided if I'll add a clear coat over it yet.