Recommended aftermarket front axles (1 Viewer)

[kylewmoore]

Hey all, well the time has come to replace my front CVs, shortly after the install of the Dobbinson lift both boots ripped. I will say I’m not totally contributing it to the lift as they look relatively worn, but it certainly is suspicious.

For reference I installed the 2.5 with control arms and diff drop. Also have small spacer on fronts for the wheels.

I was wondering if/what everyone has replaced theirs with, if there’s a recommended brand?

Thanks,
Kyle

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Stick with OEM, there's no aftermarket solution that's "better/stronger".

 

[Zjohnsonua]

If you have otherwise healthy OE axles, get the re-boot kit. If they're already compromised, do what Trunk said.

 

[kylewmoore]

Thanks guys, I’m going to replace the whole unit; they ripped and guts all over the place. I’m fortunate enough to be in the aftermarket to get them at a cost saving, especially if they’re reman.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Thanks guys, I’m going to replace the whole unit; they ripped and guts all over the place. I’m fortunate enough to be in the aftermarket to get them at a cost saving, especially if they’re reman.

Watch out for the spline health / quality if you go reman.

 

[jLB]

I’m fortunate enough to be in the aftermarket to get them at a cost saving

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You might find that cost savings goes away having to replace them frequently.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’m fortunate enough to be in the aftermarket to get them at a cost saving

I wouldn’t install aftermarket CVs again even if they’re free for life. Enormous waste of time and effort.

 

[slus]

OEM x 100. When I first bought my 100, it had a ripped boot. Had both axles changed out with aftermarkets at a shop, at their suggestion, and got half that money off the purchase price. They kept both my OEMs for the "core charge". Had a terrible P-N-D clunk and vibration in the driveline, ended up buying someone elses used OEMs with ripped boots, rebooted them, blew a weekend installing them along with new drive flanges, and the problem was solved with a bunch of wasted time and money.

If you really want some aftermarket axles, I got some with a couple hundred miles thrown in a junk pile outside my barn, you can have them.

 

[jLB]

OEM x 100. When I first bought my 100, it had a ripped boot. Had both axles changed out with aftermarkets at a shop, at their suggestion, and got half that money off the purchase price. They kept both my OEMs for the "core charge". Had a terrible P-N-D clunk and vibration in the driveline, ended up buying someone elses used OEMs with ripped boots, rebooted them, blew a weekend installing them along with new drive flanges, and the problem was solved with a bunch of wasted time and money.

If you really want some aftermarket axles, I got some with a couple hundred miles thrown in a junk pile outside my barn, you can have them.

You make a good point on not giving up your OE axles when you go down the aftermarket path, because most owners in retrospect will end up going back to rebuilding the OE CV axles.

 

[Patassa]

New OEM is the only way to go. Then if you ever get another rip, reboot asap.

 

[spressomon]

Related: Pay attention to your front suspension height. UZJ100 CV axles are very sensitive, leaking/durability/lifespan related, to too much suspension height resulting in unfriendly CV angles. This is the #1 cause of CV/CV boot failure on this platform.

 

[saucebox]

The reboot kits are cheap (comparitively), and not much more labor than doing entirely new axles. If the outer splines are toast on yours...IIRC you can just buy the outer stubs and new drive flanges so the result is basically a new OEM axle.

Boot kit should be 04427-60121. OEM quality, and you don't have to compromise on how many balls are in your joint.

 

[hoser]

If aftermarket CV’s, then go part time 4wd kit as well.

 

[Fitterblue]

Here you go; 9534 Archives - CVJ Axles - https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9534/
CVJs: These are high angle Toyota OEM axles with high angle boots. They give you a core credit when you send I your OEM axles then they rebuild yours and sell them to someone else. My cvs were shot when I got my Dobinsons lift so I got all new axles installed at the same time. I think they're 555 from japan. When those cv boots fail, then I'll get the High Angle cvs or just their HA boot replacement kit. I just didn't want to shell out the extra $ for the HA axles because I was already $$$$ replacing everything else.

 

[excessive]

i put CVJ axles in my 4runner, and they ripped within 2 years. this was a stock truck driven by my wife. Had to do the job over again and I learned my lesson.
OEM only

 

[ed94r]

I had noticeable drive line vibration/roughness under load. You could feel it in the pedals and seat/wheel. Chasing the NVH, I replaced motor mounts, transmission mounts, all bushings (I mean all), plugs/coils, MAF, lubed shafts, and switched all fluids to Redline as knock outs.

I had the LF axle replaced by a trusted shop a few years ago and they used an Import Direct. Never suspected it would be that until i did the "chalk check" and saw that there was a decent amount of play in the LF. A few months ago, after the Serra sale delivered a Toyota axle, flange and gasket and had that done...drive line roughness/NVH is gone. Glad I did all that, but I could have not done all that, lol.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Here you go; 9534 Archives - CVJ Axles - https://www.cvjreman.com/product-tag/9534/
CVJs: These are high angle Toyota OEM axles with high angle boots. They give you a core credit when you send I your OEM axles then they rebuild yours and sell them to someone else. My cvs were shot when I got my Dobinsons lift so I got all new axles installed at the same time. I think they're 555 from japan. When those cv boots fail, then I'll get the High Angle cvs or just their HA boot replacement kit. I just didn't want to shell out the extra $ for the HA axles because I was already $$$$ replacing everything else.

CVJ are Trash. Plenty of threads on MUD about the CVJs not being true rebuilds and instead just being $60 rebooted axles with trashed outboard splines, all for a $200 mark-up. Waste of time and money. You’d be much better off using that $250 to buy new OEM outboard tulips, joints, and boots and rebuilding a used set of OEM axles yourself.