Inner oil seals for CV Axles (1 Viewer)

[Land Shark]

Been experiencing some premature failure on my inner oil seals on both the PS and DS. I have recently replaced all of the differential mounts and changed out the front differential breather all the way to the top of the diff. I have meticulously set the seals per the FSM and @2001LC and others advice found here on MUD.

For reference 2001 LC roughly 2" lift, newish front shocks, new TT sway bar links, new OEM oil seals, OEM CV axles, fresh diff oil with no signs of issues in color or excessive metal on drain plug when changed.

I must be missing something... any additional helpful info is greatly appreciated

 

[3_puppies]

maybe diff drop?

 

[Land Shark]

Sorry did not mention that. Yes, diff drop from Slee is installed.

A little more back story. When I popped the (to me ) originals out they were both packed with grease on the back side. When I installed them back I did not pack them with grease as I had not seen that before.

 

[2001LC]

Installing diff side seals:

1. Clean the rust & crud off inner shelf
2. Wipe inner area where seal seat clean and lube with gear lube.
3. Lube OD of seal with gear lube.
4. Seat seal flush with inner shelf.

Oak stick 3/4" x 1" works well. But anymore I use Witsend seal driver tool, as it saves me time. Trick is to get seal seat squarely.


Install FDS:

1. Lube seals ID where FDS seat, with grease. I also lube lip of FDS, where seal first hits at surface it will be riding on/seated on.
2. Use grease to hold inner snap ring, from moving around. Set snap ring open end down and centered on axle. Use a point of FDS, like clamps to orient snap ring open end down. Do not reuse snap ring.
3. Seat FDS all the way into diff. You know it's in, when you can't pull out and you see inner dust shield, is in side diff.

Trick is, to not move the seal out of position as FDS inserted. It's why we lube the seal & FDS with grease. But still, we must use care, to not hit seal as we install FDS.



Leaks if:
Is seal damaged.
If seal not squarely seated (cocked at and angle), in diff. It will leak.
If seal knocked cockeyed, while inserting FDS, it will leak.
If FDS not fully seated in diff, it will leak.

 

[Land Shark]

Installing diff side seals:

1. Clean the rust & crud off inner shelf
2. Wipe inner area where seal seat clean and lube with gear lube.
3. Lube OD of seal with gear lube.
4. Seat seal flush with inner shelf.

Oak stick 3/4" x 1" works well. But anymore I use Witsend seal driver tool, as it saves me time. Trick is to get seal seat squarely.


Install FDS:

1. Lube seals ID where FDS seat, with grease. I also lube lip of FDS, where seal first hits at surface it will be riding on/seated on.
2. Use grease to hold inner snap ring, from moving around. Set snap ring open end down and centered on axle. Use a point of FDS, like clamps to orient snap ring open end down. Do not reuse snap ring.
3. Seat FDS all the way into diff. You know it's in, when you can't pull out and you see inner dust shield, is in side diff.

Trick is, to not move the seal out of position as FDS inserted. It's why we lube the seal & FDS with grease. But still, we must use care, to not hit seal as we install FDS.



Leaks if:
Is seal damaged.
If seal not squarely seated (cocked at and angle), in diff. It will leak.
If seal knocked cockeyed, while inserting FDS, it will leak.
If FDS not fully seated in diff, it will leak.

Thanks for the reply. I have watched and read this over and over since I purchased this LC and feel like I take great care when setting seal and inserting the FDS. I even had a buddy double check my seal placement last time in for a younger set of eyes.

Also, confirming that the PS FDS will move in and out up to 5mm per factory spec once seated and wont pull out

 

[2001LC]

Without a doubt. Something went wrong during installing of new OEM parts. You mention "were both packed with grease on back side" "I did not pack them". This was unclear. I though perhaps you did not lube and grease seals.

If correct OEM parts, breathing good, not overfilling and no damaged parts. It procedural error for sure!

I've done lift with and W/O diff and pure stock. They don't ever leak. I seen Toyota Dealership repeat 3 times and still leak. I redo and they don't. Why, procedure errors.

1) Seal getting knock out of place, is number. Happens most often, when steering knuckle not removed, seal not lubed or just careless. Remove FDS and inspect to seal see still seated properly. If not you have your answer.
2) Not seating FDS all the way in is number 2. Look as you see me do in video. The FDS silver (aluminum) dust seal, with be in diff.
3) Not seating seal squarely is number. Take clear picture an inspected. Also run your finger tip around seal and diff shelf.

Sorry did not mention that. Yes, diff drop from Slee is installed.

A little more back story. When I popped the (to me ) originals out they were both packed with grease on the back side. When I installed them back I did not pack them with grease as I had not seen that before.

 

[abuck99]

Just nearly flush with the race-still just fractionally raised- optimal

Try not to push in even or below-

 

[nissanh]

I see some use a light weight hammer and hammer all around the seal (outer perimeter). Toyota seals have a pretty tough metal casing (outer perimeter) and extremely hard to bend but if you accidentally hit the surface with lettering and part number, it can be pressed in and could open the lip a bit.

I use a heavy hammer and once the seal is even on all sides, place the old oil seal on the new seal and then a flat metal disk (such as a worn brake pad) and give a good tap with a heavy hammer...

 

[Land Shark]

Appreciate all the responses. Hard to say at this point what exactly caused the failures. I definitely had searched all of this before and was pretty carful when installing both seals had them flush and when inserting CV I was pretty anal about keeping it super straight until it was "seated".

First time they went out both leaked so severely it blew diff fluid all over the underside of the truck. On that occasion I felt like it was the breather seeing that they both failed at the same time. Then the PS starting leaking not 2 weeks later. Maybe on that one it could have been overfilled. My driveway is not exactly flat and remembering back on the orientation that day how the truck was sitting it was angled PS high.

Again, thanks for the responses. We will see how this one plays out

 

[2001LC]

Overfilling and clogged breather, would certainly cause leaks. Rear output shaft, would very likely leak also in that event.

Very import to level the vehicle, when topping any fluid.

By setting level correct and breather working. Leaks would likely stop.

 

[LRDV8R]

any update on this? I'm having a similar issue with my GX.

 

[Land Shark]

Currently no issues. Only thing I did differently was replacing all 3 front differential mounts. Still waiting to see if this actually fixes the issue before I post a “fix”

 

[LRDV8R]

to clarify, you just changed the mounts and not the seal again, or you did all of it? what made you decide to change the mounts and why do you think it's contributing to the leak issue?

 

[Land Shark]

to clarify, you just changed the mounts and not the seal again, or you did all of it? what made you decide to change the mounts and why do you think it's contributing to the leak issue?

Sorry was not clear. Seals were replaced. I also replaced my breather hose. Sorry that was documented in another thread and forgot to post it here.

With 188k on the clock those diff mounts were pretty worn with lots of movement in them. I can’t swear that they were in fact causing the issue but since replaced no leak. I am pretty sure though that when ps and ds side blew diff oil all over at the same time it was a clogged breather. Also by replacing those my “clunk” is gone.

 

[LRDV8R]

Were you able to move the diff mounts at all when under the truck, it was it only while driving you were able to notice symptoms? My rig has 278k on the clock, so it's something I need to look at more closely. I've been under the rig a lot and the bushings passed the visual test, but that doesn't mean they aren't an issue or contributing to my issue. The only seal I'm having issues with is the PS. I've got a brand new breather and it's working fine.

 

[Land Shark]

Yes, I could physically move the axle tube and watch it move way more than it should have been able to. Once I removed the mount you could see the deformation of the bushing and was way off center.