CV axle recommendation (1 Viewer)

[Zooguy]

I'm sure this has been discussed before but right now I am extremely frustrated on this Christmas Day after installing my third CV axle in 3 months last night only to find out today when I arrived at my family's house for festivities I have checked out the install from last night and discovered the CV outer CV boot on the axle I literally installed last night has thrown out most all of its Grease.....

The first one I got from AutoZone was just a regular standard axle and the inner CV boot started leaking about 2 months after I got it I replaced it under their warranty program back in October the first weekend of December I went on a trip to Amarillo to do some light off-roading and on the way home discovered the inner CV boot had ripped again on the 2-month-old axle .... So I decided to spend some money and upgrade to the HD severe weather axle since it was only $40 more and literally less than 24 hours the outer CV boot on that one has emptied its guts.

What are you guys doing for your CV axles and longevity?

 

[Zooguy]

Found the hole/rip ugh .... Poor assembly by the manufacturer FML

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you search, most all threads will say OEM. With your aftermarket one they may have a lifetime warranty on them, so you could explore that, the trade off being you may have to replace it again.

 

[KraziAzn]

OEM or bust.

 

[dubdub20003]

Yea, sorry for your experiences on this. It has to be super frustrating. This is one of those that doing it once with OEM is worth the cost… there are just too many terrible stories like this about non OE.

 

[3_puppies]

OEM or bust.

OEM new or bust

 

[Texsun84]

How much is your time worth?

Treat yourself to another Christmas present and go OEM.

 

[marshcat]

Are you sure something else isn't wrong that is causing the axles to fail? Damaging the boots during assembly? OEM is definitely best, but it's not like the aftermarket axles are complete garbage. I currently have 4 years and 40k miles on a set of aftermarket axles with no issues.

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

OEM or CVJreman.com if you’re looking for a cheaper option.

 

[FamilyCamper]

I have had this one on now for 20k miles and a lot off pretty hard trails and never had an issue. I would check the lift in the front of your car and make sure it's not too high up. Also do you have a diff drop?? Maybe a loose differential bushing that is causing play?

Cardone Axle

 

[excessive]

an Autozone CV axle lasted 2 months? that's pretty good actually

 

[jorydr0428]

OEM all the way. It’s expensive but worth it. The Duealast CVs started clicking after 5k. Complete crap

 

[2020 Rocks]

I have had this one on now for 20k miles and a lot off pretty hard trails and never had an issue. I would check the lift in the front of your car and make sure it's not too high up. Also do you have a diff drop?? Maybe a loose differential bushing that is causing play?

Cardone Axle

similar experience, two years with the hd napa cv axles and no issues yet

 

[2001LC]

OEM considered best. But OEM or aftermarket. Care must be taken during shipping, storing and installing. Road hazard hits do happen, but not all that often.

If the rubber boot, bumps hard surfaces where metal of CV under rubber boot. They often get a hole in rubber.

A common install hit, is on LCA

This looks like a hole, classic to a hit. It also "looks" (may just be shadows), that metal rim of dust shield took a hit.

I do see other common issues.
Missing brake caliper bleeder cap. That's asking for frozen bleeds and damaged caliper. Especial if missing from rear brake calipers bleeders.
Brake rotor dust shield bent. Common from hanging wheel on it, during R&R of tire. Then poorly bending back to stop rub on rotor.
BFH marks on TRE bracket and steering knuckle at LBJ. Associated with removal of TRE and LBJ, using BFH. So often, results in damaged TRE & LBJ.

Caution, gorilla out work

 

[NOSAJ]

CVs have been an issue for me on my 2001 lx. Mild trails, 100s in the hills, Moab, several trips to CO. PO lifted the front too high and both were ripped when I bought it. Napa ones were terrible for me. I put them on and immediately had a vibration. I repacked the OEM ones and vibration went away. I ran those for 25,300 miles and had to rebuild again. Those lasted 79,000 miles. I ended up buying brand new CVs and have had them on for 51,500 miles and driver is ripped and passenger is leaking. I have the OME lift and diff drop. I’m rebuilding again in the next couple of weeks. I’m going to double and triple check the torsion bar height and probably lower it anyway. Our stock 2000 LC hasn’t had any issues but hasn’t been driven as much. I’ve been thinking about going with the part time kit. BTW don’t buy a Napa fan bracket or anything else. I’ve learned my lesson…everything OEM.

Jason

 

[Zooguy]

OEM considered best. But OEM or aftermarket. Care must be taken during shipping, storing and installing. Road hazard hits do happen, but not all that often.

If the rubber boot, bumps hard surfaces where metal of CV under rubber boot. They often get a hole in rubber.

A common install hit, is on LCA

This looks like a hole, classic to a hit. It also "looks" (may just be shadows), that metal rim of dust shield took a hit.

View attachment 3517338
I do see other common issues.
Missing brake caliper bleeder cap. That's asking for frozen bleeds and damaged caliper. Especial if missing from rear brake calipers bleeders.
Brake rotor dust shield bent. Common from hanging wheel on it, during R&R of tire. Then poorly bending back to stop rub on rotor.
BFH marks on TRE bracket and steering knuckle at LBJ. Associated with removal of TRE and LBJ, using BFH. So often, results in damaged TRE & LBJ.

View attachment 3517347
Caution, gorilla out work

A gorilla at work still gets the job done just as effective. Minor paint chips on the powder coating of those cast iron parts has no effect on drivability or service life. You make a fair point with the brake bleed but I can't fathom a dust cap missing would cause a caliper failure. Potentially it could get clogged with mud or road grime but two or three seconds with a metal pick can it alleviate that issue. I wouldn't say the bent best slash heat shield is a problem in any way. I have removed them from many many vehicles without any negative consequence.

You have to keep things in perspective if this was a brand new 300 series Land Cruiser or Lexus LX 600 of course this would not be acceptable but a 205,000 mi 1999 LC ... I would say this is actually pretty nice condition despite the cosmetic flaws

 

[2001LC]

A gorilla at work still gets the job done just as effective. Minor paint chips on the powder coating of those cast iron parts has no effect on drivability or service life. You make a fair point with the brake bleed but I can't fathom a dust cap missing would cause a caliper failure. Potentially it could get clogged with mud or road grime but two or three seconds with a metal pick can it alleviate that issue. I wouldn't say the bent best slash heat shield is a problem in any way. I have removed them from many many vehicles without any negative consequence.

You have to keep things in perspective if this was a brand new 300 series Land Cruiser or Lexus LX 600 of course this would not be acceptable but a 205,000 mi 1999 LC ... I would say this is actually pretty nice condition despite the cosmetic flaws

Interesting prospective. Gives me a prospective, on your "extremely frustrated"

I've three rules:

1. Do no harm!.
2. Leave it better than I found it!
3. Pay attention to detail.

I could listed 100's of instance of, "gorilla work". That has compromised reliability, safety and resulting in parts failure and in additional repair expenses. Which, I for years, did list a lot of in mud for anyone that cared to read. These days I mostly just expect and repair back to factory.

BTW: Bleeders rust inside cavity of caliper seat area. This rust, works into seat of the caliper, resulting in pits. Old or new bleeders no longer seat, if any pit along seat line/point. We then get a pressure/fluid weep. New caliper $250 plus labor or $1 bleeder cap. Prospective!

Me, 100 & 200 series get the same respect and care.

 

[jerryb]

guy posts pictures, other guy points out flaws with nothing good to say.
do no harm. lol.

 

[213374U]

OEM or CVJreman.com if you’re looking for a cheaper option.

CVJ is where I got mine. Had to reboot one side when it arrived torn, but have had zero issues since then.

 

[Trapper50cal]

CVJ is where I got mine. Had to reboot one side when it arrived torn, but have had zero issues since then.

View attachment 3519782

This is what I'm running as well.