Outsane
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Well done, nice cable work!
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- Thread starter
- #122
quick update on two of the above posts. just spent a bunch of time on dirt roads and found some shortcomings. that Chinese radiator is definitely not meant to be stuff in there. maybe it would be ok with some electric fans. it should NOT be used with the 1FZ fan, not sure about a 3FE. I found this out about 45 miles off the pavement when fan contacted and popped a few holes.
second thing is the evaporation can. pulling apart, cleaning, and putting new charcoal in there did almost no good. I will be pulling apart and making a more permanent adjustment via threads on here.
second thing is the evaporation can. pulling apart, cleaning, and putting new charcoal in there did almost no good. I will be pulling apart and making a more permanent adjustment via threads on here.
- Thread starter
- #123
The high cost of adding a really nice seat (a Scheelmann-mann): now I have to bring everything up to it's level. 20 lbs of dry ice was ALMOST enough to get the OEM underlayment off the area under the front carpet.
- Thread starter
- #124
After finishing up the removal of OEM sound deadener, got some “tar remover” and cleaned up the sheetmetal. Once it was all dried out, laid down the HushMat (this stuff goes down so much easier and better than Kilmat/Noico/etc it’s not even funny). Once everything was covered up with that stuff (even though after extensive testing OEMs have come to the conclusion that 25% coverage achieves 95% results as full coverage, I figured why not). Then the real stuff goes down. Second Skin mass loaded vinyl. It’s about 5/8” thick (1/2” neoprene foam adhered to 1/8” of essentially commercial vinyl tile). This is what actually stops the noise from coming through. The hushmat stops the high frequency vibrations, the mass loaded vinyl stops the low frequency stuff.
- Thread starter
- #125
Once the carpet was back in I decided to clean up my console wiring a bunch too. Drilled some extra holes in the bottom of the console and routed wire through, need some high current connectors to show up, then I’ll be able to plug everything in and be back to rocking out. With this setup, all wiring is stand alone and I can “unplug” the console and completely remove when I decide to replace the carpet, without have to touch a single screw terminal.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
Lots of work but it looks like its really going to pay off. I wasn't planning to do the mass backed vinyl when I do mine. I was going to use a layer of deadener like the HushMat, but then just put new mass backed carpet down on top of that. Is it wasted effort if you don't put the other layer under the carpet?
- Thread starter
- #127
I think the MLV (second skin brand in particular) is an order of magnitude better than the stuff on the back of carpet kits. The stuff on the back of stock interiors kits is ok, but SS stuff is so far beyond it's not even funny. Would highly recommend putting that down and getting bare carpet kit.
Glad you like the second skin. That was the brand I was telling you about at the meet, I used the roll on application in the rear and really was impressed with the performance.
- Thread starter
- #129
Ya, it’s awesome stuff.
I didn’t make that connection I guess. It’s the same stuff we used on the green Cummins rig way back when.
- Thread starter
- #130
Last bits for wiring cleanup showed up yesterday, now all I have to do is undo the 5 bolts holding the center console in and unplug these 2 plugs and the console comes right out. If I need to work on anything (mounting a new holster, changing/replacing wiring, etc) I can do it on the bench instead of hunched over one of the seats or something.
- Thread starter
- #131
Finally finished up permanent radio install, under armrest of new seat. Fits nice. Using some nice little zip-tie retainers that fit the holes in center console (1/4") really nicely. Very clean way to route cables, etc. Using one as strain relief for the mic cable too. In case I grab the mic from outside the rig and yank on it or something.
- Thread starter
- #132
A nice little package showed up today, working on getting the engine back from machine shop and getting an NV4500 sourced for building with special output shaft:
- Thread starter
- #133
Pretty stoked on yesterday’s project. Kind of following Joey’s lead on underhood lighting here, but also adding some sticky foil backed foam insulation before attaching a new OEM heat shield (with 12 new hood insul clips of course). The foil backed stuff (sorry I forgot to get photos) does a great job of keeping A LOT of sound in the engine bay as well as reducing the phllbbbttt of the sheetmetal at speed (most of that is fixed by re-glueing the hood skin to the spars underneath, forgot photos of that too :/ ). I just used “The Right Stuff” rtv for that part, instead of the expensive (and very nice) 2-part adhesive Joey used, but it should last just fine.
The BEST part was adding the amber Baja Designs rock lights though. I chose amber to be a little easier on the eyes at night, I even considered red but figured that might be a little much. Drilled some holes and set some rivnuts to mount them, will be very solid. Made a little harness and ran it through the hood spars (considered just taping to the foil foam but felt like a challenge for some reason), now I just need to find the little grommet he used (maybe he’s going to sell them??) on the exit hole to finish it off (will be easy to add later since I used a deutsch connector and can just depin/repin whenever). Finally, just popped it on the SwitchPro mount right where the wire comes out of the hood and was done with it.
So stoked. With the switchpro I have three brightness settings, and during testing last night the lowest seemed plenty bright. We’ll see next time I have a night repair (like swapping a radiator in a parking lot on the first night of a week long trip). Will be nice to not have a light dropping on my head! There is also now a very satisfying “thunk” when shutting the hood instead of “tWaAaaNg” like it was before.
ONE HINT: don’t lay the hood upside down when glueing the skin to the spars. Have it standing on an edge. The weight of the hood will not allow the skin to relax into its natural state and you’ll be unhappy when you flip it back over. I didn’t have this happen, but can see how it could happen
Pics:
-finished install on full brightness in well lit shop
-halfway through cleaning underside of hood
-BD lights I used
-lights installed
-connector/switchpro
The BEST part was adding the amber Baja Designs rock lights though. I chose amber to be a little easier on the eyes at night, I even considered red but figured that might be a little much. Drilled some holes and set some rivnuts to mount them, will be very solid. Made a little harness and ran it through the hood spars (considered just taping to the foil foam but felt like a challenge for some reason), now I just need to find the little grommet he used (maybe he’s going to sell them??) on the exit hole to finish it off (will be easy to add later since I used a deutsch connector and can just depin/repin whenever). Finally, just popped it on the SwitchPro mount right where the wire comes out of the hood and was done with it.
So stoked. With the switchpro I have three brightness settings, and during testing last night the lowest seemed plenty bright. We’ll see next time I have a night repair (like swapping a radiator in a parking lot on the first night of a week long trip). Will be nice to not have a light dropping on my head! There is also now a very satisfying “thunk” when shutting the hood instead of “tWaAaaNg” like it was before.
ONE HINT: don’t lay the hood upside down when glueing the skin to the spars. Have it standing on an edge. The weight of the hood will not allow the skin to relax into its natural state and you’ll be unhappy when you flip it back over. I didn’t have this happen, but can see how it could happen
Pics:
-finished install on full brightness in well lit shop
-halfway through cleaning underside of hood
-BD lights I used
-lights installed
-connector/switchpro
- Thread starter
- #134
Been working on getting my driver window “up to speed” for some time now. Not only is it slow, but it will often fully stall somewhere between 0-6” or so from the top.
Taking an incremental approach to see if any one thing would fix it, starting from less expensive and easier to do, I did the following (all replacing done with NEW OEM parts):
1. Window runs (no real difference)
2. Master switch (no difference)
3. Replaced the scissor mechanism (no difference)
4. Took window motor apart and cleaned/sanded/polish/re-lubed everything (no difference)
5. New window motor (no difference) (also, new part number has a significantly shorter motor housing, I didn’t take it apart to measure anything)
At this point, a bit disappointed. Quite a few dollars towards it and no good results.
6. is going to be running all new wires to replace nearly thirty year old copper.
As I was reassembling everything after switching motors today, I noticed a slotted hole that I must’ve been ignoring every other time I was digging around in there. (Edit: this is the bolt all the way towards the jamb and is one of two on the little floppy support piece the back of the scissor piece rides on)
You can see all the grime from where it was (at the bottom of the slot) for the last who knows how long. I moved it to top of slot and WOULDN’T YOU KNOW IT, but the thing goes all the way up without hesitation now.
Now, maybe all the other parts and pieces helped once this was adjusted, but I’ll have to leave that for someone who hasn’t changed everything out to test.
Taking an incremental approach to see if any one thing would fix it, starting from less expensive and easier to do, I did the following (all replacing done with NEW OEM parts):
1. Window runs (no real difference)
2. Master switch (no difference)
3. Replaced the scissor mechanism (no difference)
4. Took window motor apart and cleaned/sanded/polish/re-lubed everything (no difference)
5. New window motor (no difference) (also, new part number has a significantly shorter motor housing, I didn’t take it apart to measure anything)
At this point, a bit disappointed. Quite a few dollars towards it and no good results.
6. is going to be running all new wires to replace nearly thirty year old copper.
As I was reassembling everything after switching motors today, I noticed a slotted hole that I must’ve been ignoring every other time I was digging around in there. (Edit: this is the bolt all the way towards the jamb and is one of two on the little floppy support piece the back of the scissor piece rides on)
You can see all the grime from where it was (at the bottom of the slot) for the last who knows how long. I moved it to top of slot and WOULDN’T YOU KNOW IT, but the thing goes all the way up without hesitation now.
Now, maybe all the other parts and pieces helped once this was adjusted, but I’ll have to leave that for someone who hasn’t changed everything out to test.
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- Thread starter
- #135
Knocked a few project off the list today:
-reinstalled front windows, post tint
-because of tint, replaced the decrepit interior window felt pieces since they were all old/dry/hard/cracked and would scratch the new tint in a second
-replaced shifter handle with new leather OEM piece. This turned into a way bigger project that I expected, but I ended up completely disassembling the shifter assembly scrubbing the hell out of it. End result of this project will bring me much joy every time I get in now. Read this thread Removing the leather shifter handle for replacement. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-the-leather-shifter-handle-for-replacement.354974/#post-5199302 before diving into replacing the handle as it is not a 5 minute job, as I thought it would be.
this is how nasty all the parts and pieces were from likely never being touched for 330k+ miles:
This is why I was replacing handle, only thing available anymore is the full leather one, so I used one of those
more disassembly to get all the parts clean
and this is why the job is a bit of a pain. The connector for OD switch is larger than the hole behind it. Which leads to needing to remove the entire assembly, de-pin a connector, and pull the wires all the way through that hole to remove the handle.
-reinstalled front windows, post tint
-because of tint, replaced the decrepit interior window felt pieces since they were all old/dry/hard/cracked and would scratch the new tint in a second
-replaced shifter handle with new leather OEM piece. This turned into a way bigger project that I expected, but I ended up completely disassembling the shifter assembly scrubbing the hell out of it. End result of this project will bring me much joy every time I get in now. Read this thread Removing the leather shifter handle for replacement. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/removing-the-leather-shifter-handle-for-replacement.354974/#post-5199302 before diving into replacing the handle as it is not a 5 minute job, as I thought it would be.
this is how nasty all the parts and pieces were from likely never being touched for 330k+ miles:
This is why I was replacing handle, only thing available anymore is the full leather one, so I used one of those
more disassembly to get all the parts clean
and this is why the job is a bit of a pain. The connector for OD switch is larger than the hole behind it. Which leads to needing to remove the entire assembly, de-pin a connector, and pull the wires all the way through that hole to remove the handle.
- Thread starter
- #136
This is how much I had to pull apart:
and this is the end result:
so much cleaner.
and this is the end result:
so much cleaner.
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- Thread starter
- #137
Recently had a chance to reroute my rooftop wiring (weboost antenna and solar cables) a little better. Before they were just getting shut between the hatch and body, causing a little bit of wind noise and breaking the weatherstrip seal. Routed down the cavity between hatch and body now, underneath and through a blank rubber plug. Much happier now, and still sealed nicely. The plug is just behind the rear passenger tire, below the lower shelf of QPM.
Also upgraded from the prototype QPM wire chase pieces to production versions. Prototype was wobbly as hell aluminum, production is powdercoated steel. Also added some shorter verticals for production. All wires are now secure.
Also upgraded from the prototype QPM wire chase pieces to production versions. Prototype was wobbly as hell aluminum, production is powdercoated steel. Also added some shorter verticals for production. All wires are now secure.
- Thread starter
- #138
Engine swap has been moved up to top of list. Was on the freeway headed to visit a vendor last week when I felt an ever-so-slight decrease in power, just enough to feel in the pit of my stomach. When I pull off at the next exit I heard the gut-wrenching “knock, knock, this ain’t no joke”. Luckily friend was able to come grab me with trailer.
So now acquiring NV4500 is at top of list (as of last night, secured), as is getting 4bt parts back from machine shop. Have parts from Adventure Vehicles NW already here and more on the way for adapting, etc.
Getting a handful of Fluidampr harmonic dampers to turn into three pulse versions so it works with the Toyota tach pickup.
Doubt I’ll be able to get it done before Cruise Moab unfortunately.
So now acquiring NV4500 is at top of list (as of last night, secured), as is getting 4bt parts back from machine shop. Have parts from Adventure Vehicles NW already here and more on the way for adapting, etc.
Getting a handful of Fluidampr harmonic dampers to turn into three pulse versions so it works with the Toyota tach pickup.
Doubt I’ll be able to get it done before Cruise Moab unfortunately.
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A detailed report of your swap would be very much appreciated. The 4bt or 6bt/NV4500 is a solid bit of equipment I would also consider swapping in some day.
- Thread starter
- #140
I will certainly be documenting here, but I’m not sure I will be able to do any better than the @Dirty Koala thread of his swap.
If the machine shop drags their feet in any way shape or form, I do have an old 1st gen dodge with a recently built (cam, studs, fire rings, coated pistons, Carrillo rods, etc), VE pumped 6bt that I will use. I need this 80 back up and running as soon as possible!
