Rebuilding our Tank

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AC up and running

I got to road test Sherman this weekend. The A/C setup really works well. While it takes awhile to cool down such a big space that's not insulated extremely well, I had to turn down the fan after about 10 minutes, because the air was too cold.

I also ran some 1 1/2" conduit and flex to the back seat to give the kids a vent. It's not great, but gives them some air, too. It's hooked to an additional vent in the center console.

I think the controls look very stock. Here are a couple more pix.

Greg:)
ac2.webp
ac1.webp
ac3.webp
 
Love this piggy........great job!; lots of great ideas :idea: please keep up the pix.....maybe where you routed the cold air conduit to the back seat area?

Lou
 
Rear A/C Vent & Rear bumper

Here are a couple more pix.

1) I built a center console and installed an A/C vent in the middle for the kids to fight over. I also hooked up a 12V socket for the iPod and DVD player. The a/c kit came with four vents so I used the dual vent with controls and an additional one up front and the fourth one in the back seat.

2) I recycled a decent front bumper to replace my awful looking rear bumper. Not too bad. I also wired the trailer plug thru the bumper. In this shot you can also see the bar I installed for the rear seat harnesses. I am going to add headrests at some point (when my kids get tall enough to need them).

Greg
ac4.webp
rear bumper.webp
 
awsome................why didn't I think of flipping the bumper?............do you have any mor epix of the center console? my kids constantly fight in the rear seat:frown:

Lou
 
Hey,

How far out does your rear hitch stick out? I'm thinking about doing the same thing to my rig. How is it bolted on? Great Pig! ty
 
your pig is too sweet!!!

great job on that rig-rear air darn better than my fzj80?!
 
Sherman Update-cooling issues

After a month or so of driving, I've changed a couple of things:

1. Over a long weekend, we took Sherman camping, towing our starcraft 11rt tent trailer up near Tahoe. At about 4000 feet and at 90 degrees, the engine was at around 250 and struggling. I could not get it to cool down below 230. I had to turn off the a/c and turn on the heater. Not a happy family moment.

I have learned the following:

1. I had the timing retarded. Didn't know that if the timing is off, the engine can heat up pretty good. Just this change made a big difference in engine temp.

2. The 14" pusher fan does not blow enough air to cool the a/c and the radiator. Instead I have replaced it with a 16" puller fan hooked up to the same controller. According to specs, I have gone from about 1000 cfm to about 2100. (I learned that pusher fans are only about 80 percent efficient)

3. I also put in a coolant additive (DEI radiator relief) which promises to keep the coolant up to 30 degrees cooler.

4. Trying to start from a stop with a hot engine was resulting in a weird surging and bucking. I determined the fuel line was too close to the water pump/valve cover, despite trying to isolate it. So, I insulated my fuel line from the fuel pump over the front of the engine to the carb with tubing insulation to keep the fuel from vaporizing.

So far, so good. This weekend, without pulling the trailer, but with some hills, the temp maintained at around 185-190.

Fan: Flex a lite FLX 116 $92 at summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLX-116&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Additive: DEI Radiator Relief $10 at summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DEI-040200&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Insulation: Thermotec THE-17062 $13 at summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=THE-17062&N=700+0&autoview=sku
 
Did you have to change the size of the alternator belt when you moved it along with the compressor, and what size did you go to? and are you still running a two wheel pully?
 
belts and pulleys

This is how it was run until last weekend: The inner pulleys hold the belt for the power steering pump. It is routed around the crank, the water pump and the power steering pump. It is a 17421 (13AV1065). The outer pulleys hold the belt for the compressor and alternator. It is routed around the crank, the compressor and the alternator. It is a 17750 (13AV1395).

Now I have a single wire GM style alternator that I had to fabricate brackets for. So now the inner belt runs around the crank, the water pump, the alternator and the compressor. It is a 17591 (13AV1500). The outer belt runs around the crank, the water pump and the powersteering pump. (Same belt as before)

Hope this helps.
greg
 
What did your rear lower corners look like when you started? If they were rusted out like everyone else's what did you do to replace/fix?

Z
 
Lower corners

I reviewed my photos and they are deceiving. These are the original corners. You cannot see the rusted dent in the left one from the original bumper, or the small perforations in the right from the rust eating through. Repair is still on the never ending list of things to do.
 
Well yours look a lot better than mine and I'm sure a lot of other people.

Z
 
Some new Sherman action pics

We got to go to Hollister Hills last week. First real test of Sherman in a long time. We were able to keep up with the kids: a 04 Disco II and an 07 FJ Cruiser. 35 years means nothing to a cruiser. Only a couple spots that were too tight for Shermans wheelbase. Otherwise we went everywhere. First trip with the snorkel and cable brush guards.
A couple pix from the trip below:
sherm pre trip.webp
Sherm quarry 1.webp
sherm rough 1.webp
 

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